Replacing D2 TD5 engine mounts - how to.

[pohm66]

A mate asked for my help on Saturday with replacing his engine mounts... It wasn't til he jumped in Grimmy a few weeks ago that he released the vibrations weren't natural... they crept up on him.

No PICs forget the camera:(

To see if your engine mounts have collapsed crawl underneath and there should be a 10mm+ gap inside the bottom of the mount to the base of the rubber (small round hole). In this case the rubber was pressing out the hole.

RAVE suggests having to remove the turbo, the centrifuge oil drain pipe and the 2 mounts that bolt directly onto the engine block. This is an alternative that worked for us.

Tools needed
10mm socket and or spanner for the fuel cooler
18mm socket
15mm socket
2 ratchets
Jack with plenty of lift and/or blocks of wood
Ratchet extensions 40cm+ would be best (suggest 1/2")
Universal socket knuckle
Screw driver to remove radiator top cowl
A mate to lend a hand and crawl under the vehicle. Long arms :arms:and not all thumbs preferred.

Degrease both sides and underneath if needed. Whoever is under there will appreciate it.

First time doing this for both of us and job took 3.5 hours.... next time should be able to get it down to 2.5hrs with these instructions

If a dual battery is installed adjacent to turbo it may make getting the LH engine mount tricky or impossible as the mount exits through that area. SUGGESTION: before going further see if you can pass the new one down through that section.

1) Disconnect battery - advisable at best of times

2) Remove engine cover

3) Remove radiator top cowl

4) Remove the 4 bolts retaining the fuel cooler 2 short on top and 2 longer below.

5) Loosen on both engine mounts the 2 bolts to the chassis and the one to the mounting bracket off the block (at least this way you know that you can get both sides done)

6) Remove all 6 nuts and invert the bolts back through the mounts downwards (safety precaution and allows sufficient engine movement)

7) With jack placed as safely biased RH of sump lift motor. In our case the acoustic cover on the back on the motor had to come all the way up to touch the firewall. This lifted and rotated the engine enough to remove the RH engine mount and replace with new one.
NOTE1: the new one was about 15mm higher that the old collapsed one. Engine mount removed and replaced from below.
NOTE2: Double check the matching up of the locator pin on top of the engine mount to the bracket.

8) Replace with the new engine mount and place the 2 bolts back down to locate properly.

9) When lowering jack - Slowly - ensure that the top thread positions through bracket.

10) Now that the RH is done time to move to the LH which has a heat shield over it that needs to be transferred to the new mount.

11) With jack placed as safely biased LH of sump lift motor. In our case the acoustic cover on the back on the motor had to come all the way up to touch the firewall that lifted rotated the engine enough to remove the LH engine mount and replace with new one.
NOTE1: the new one was about 15mm high that the old collapsed one. Engine mount removed and replaced from ABOVE.
NOTE2: Double check the matching up of the locator pin on top of the engine mount to the bracket.

12) replace with the new engine mount and place the 2 bolts back down to locate properly.

13) When lowering jack - Slowly - ensure that the top thread positions through bracket and that the heat shield is sitting properly.

14) Move the mounting bolts the right way around and tighten properly

15) Tighten the top nut.

16) Repeat for the other side.

17) Replace fuel cooler.

18) Replace radiator cowl and radiator cowl and reconnect the battery.

19) Double check that you haven't dislodged wires or anything whilst working through the gaps especially on the turbo side.


Start motor and enjoy the serenity.....:beer:

[Rosscoe68]

had a sneaking suspicion of mounts on my car, just checked them and the rubber is sitting flush against the metal. looks like a bit of a job and a wad of cash leaving my hands soon.

anyone know if it is safe to drive on the mounts like this for a few weeks. heading out on a 2 week holiday in 3 days. dont really have time to do before i leave.

[Kandy]

It will "probably " be safe BUT you should be experiencing some funny vibration feelings and thinking WTF, I had mine done here inBriz. MR Auto- oops another plug- for under $300 to give you a guesstimate.
Steve

[Rosscoe68]

yeah, i have some vibrations and took it to the muffler shop as i thought it was the flex pipe under the turbo, but he told me it was the mounts.

so was that $300 all up fitted for 2 ? or just one side. i have been quoted $195 per side just for the mount plus fitting.

[Ean Austral]

Put a jack under the sump and leave the car in idle with someone sitting in it then slowly jack the sump,it should only take 2-4 pumps of the jack and the viabration will dissappear.

I drove mine around for about 3 months trying to find the problem.


Cheers Ean

[Rosscoe68]

problem is it only vibrates when its under load. at about 2200 rpm, free revving doesnt vibrate. at 2200 rpm in 2nd and 3rd its got a vibration and a very light metallic rattle.

i have checked the engine mounts and the rubber is pretty much sitting on the bottom plate. new ones there is almost and inch between the bottom plate and the rubber. so even if these are not causing the vibration, they still need replacing anyhow.

[disco_thrasher]

problem is it only vibrates when its under load. at about 2200 rpm, free revving doesnt vibrate. at 2200 rpm in 2nd and 3rd its got a vibration and a very light metallic rattle.

i have checked the engine mounts and the rubber is pretty much sitting on the bottom plate. new ones there is almost and inch between the bottom plate and the rubber. so even if these are not causing the vibration, they still need replacing anyhow.

check your front driveshaft too as vibration at higher revs can be due to a failing uni-joint

[john denney]

I have had similar problems with a 2004 TD5 (UK).... the new engine mounts solved the problem......

The new engine mountings are now fitted and made a big difference! (thank God!). It cruises at 80 mph now with just wind noise and a bit of a drone from the engine so I guess its as good as it is going to be. The old mountings were goosed - the rubber bits were resting on the metal holder - the new ones gave a clearance of about 10mm. I have also fitted a de-cat pipe which has improved the response from the engine quite a lot... certainly worth doing!

The engine mountings were not too bad to do - I managed to get at the drivers side by removing the fuel cooler and although it was a bit tight everything came undone relatively easily. The passenger side was easier - I did not remove the turbo - a "universal joint" adapter on the socket allowed access.

The de-cat pipe was a nightmare! The crossmember really has to come off and despite buying a good quality 6 sided socket two of the bolts rounded off and I had to grind them away to remove it.... (I used a dremmel - very useful little tool for tight places!) The pipe is just a bit awkward to get in and out but was re-fitted with a bit of fiddling. I found it easier to attach the pipe to the exhaust first and then to the manifold.

Overall the jobs were well worth doing and in particular the new engine mountings have made a huge difference to the car - its much more refined at motorway speeds.. 80 mph used to be unbearable but is now relaxed and quiet.

Hope this info helps... and thanks to all who took the time to offer advice... new gearbox mountings tomorrow - and replace the bit of plastic under the engine..

.... so to get from a clattery, noisy rough car to a relatively quiet refined one I have had to fit recon injectors, new engine mounts, bin the EGR valve and fit a de- cat downpipe... well over a £1000 but I paid under the odds for it so I am still on the right side of its value.... hope it keeps going for a bit now - I am sick of crawling under it!

John

[catch-22]

problem is it only vibrates when its under load. at about 2200 rpm, free revving doesnt vibrate. at 2200 rpm in 2nd and 3rd its got a vibration and a very light metallic rattle.

i have checked the engine mounts and the rubber is pretty much sitting on the bottom plate. new ones there is almost and inch between the bottom plate and the rubber. so even if these are not causing the vibration, they still need replacing anyhow.

From all the td5's I've been in, they ALL have a slight vibration at those revs. some more noticable than others. Some had it from factory. I've heard many say theirs doesn't have it but it's just that they don't know what to listen out for.

[Rosscoe68]

replaced my mounts . i ended up using non genuine mounts at first and that was a bad mistake. made itshake and vibrate like a 1940's willy's. changed to genuine mounts and much smoother. with the non genuine mounts the rattle at 2100 revs was gone, but the car vibrated that much it was like sitting on a vibrator. genuine mounts are much smoother but the rattle came back. 99% sure its the flex pipe just below the turbo in the exhaust.

[John W]

I am about to tackle this job and British Parts have supplied me with 2 off KKB500750. Are these the aftermarket ones you speak that are too harsh or are they OK?

[OffTrack]

I am about to tackle this job and British Parts have supplied me with 2 off KKB500750. Are these the aftermarket ones you speak that are too harsh or are they OK?

Most sellers use the LR part number to identify a part, but this doesn't tell you if it is pattern, oem or genuine. Unless they were specifically described as genuine LR, they are most likely pattern. Genuine seem to sell for $150-190 each, with pattern going for half that. The only way you could be 100% of the origin of the part would be to contact the seller and ask.

[catch-22]

Land over we themselves sell for 150 each. Best get it from them

[Rosscoe68]

so 2+ years on, and i was looking under the bonnet today to find witness marks on the fan shroud. 1 from the aircon drive pulley and one from the fan blades. looks like the engine is twisting and lifting about 1/2 inch or so to make contact in these 2 places.
guess its time to do engine mounts again.
to be fair to it, its done over 40k klms since mounts were done, a lot of that towing a van, plus a lot of offroading.
will check the mounts in the morning when i can be bothered climbing under it.

[bob10]

I am about to tackle this job and British Parts have supplied me with 2 off KKB500750. Are these the aftermarket ones you speak that are too harsh or are they OK?
KKB500750LR - genuine mounts. I think the LR is the clincher. Bought mine from Paddocks, UK, 117.78 UK pounds for two, 65 UK pounds for freight, worked out with current exchange rate $273.84 all up delivered to my door in a week. Do the maths with local prices. Bob

[Rosscoe68]

KKB500750LR - genuine mounts. I think the LR is the clincher. Bought mine from Paddocks, UK, 117.78 UK pounds for two, 65 UK pounds for freight, worked out with current exchange rate $273.84 all up delivered to my door in a week. Do the maths with local prices. Bob

Land Rover Discovery S2 TD5 Engine Mount Set-Genuine | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Land-Rover-Discovery-S2-TD5-Engine-Mount-Set-Genuine-/251128892714?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a7872cd2a#ht_500wt_1180)

$335 inc. delivery from sydney supplier. I for one would be going to the local for the extra $50.

[OffTrack]

Land Rover Discovery S2 TD5 Engine Mount Set-Genuine | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Land-Rover-Discovery-S2-TD5-Engine-Mount-Set-Genuine-/251128892714?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a7872cd2a#ht_500wt_1180)

$335 inc. delivery from sydney supplier. I for one would be going to the local for the extra $50.

I discovered that supplier has a tendency to call OEM parts "genuine" so don't assume that you'll get LR branded parts. Ask first if that is important to you.

[bob10]

I discovered that supplier has a tendency to call OEM parts "genuine" so don't assume that you'll get LR branded parts. Ask first if that is important to you.

X2, Bob

[Rosscoe68]

description states "These are the Genuine article-not UK remade"

[OffTrack]

Roscoe,

I have pm'd you a copy of a reply Gary set me in response to a complaint I lodged with ebay that the "genuine" loom I purchased was not as described but rather a Bearmach branded item.

The reply was to the effect that it was the same part but not sold via the LR network and not in LR packaging. That makes it what I - and I imagine most others - would describe as an OEM part (which I could have bought from Graeme at BritCar, a 5 minute stroll from work, for the same price and less hassle). He's not selling junk but as I said if you care about having LR branded parts you'd do well to ask him first because by and large that isn't what you'll get.

cheers
Paul

[Rosscoe68]

thx :)

[bob10]

description states "These are the Genuine article-not UK remade"
The mounts from UK are branded as genuine LR parts, made in Germany. German made will do me. Bob

[eckolsim]

Thanks for this post. Just changed both my mounts and can't fault the advice. 3.5 hours by myself. Could have done with an extra pair of helping hands as advised.

[999]

Thanks for the guide, Took me 3 1/2 hours, but what ***** of a job on your own.
You can certainly see how much the old mount has sunk
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/1.jpg (http://s204.photobucket.com/user/2000cats/media/IMG_20140228_210150_zps73e9301f.jpg.html)

I notice instantly the difference as soon as I started the motor.
Thanks again.

[DiscoKym]

Yes **** of a job on your own but not that bad.

I did my right one in about 1.5 hours and that included reading the instructions a few times.

Blocks of wood on the jack makes it a bit easier. My trolley jack didn't go high enough.

I replaced mine because they said it was buggered. However as soon as I drove it afterwards I noticed a lack of vibrations???? I though it felt like a tough diesel with all the vibrations.

Now it feels like a soft luxury car, not a bad thing.. :wasntme:

[mools]

Where do you jack the engine from to do this?

Cheers,

Ian.

[999]

Where do you jack the engine from to do this?

Cheers,

Ian.

The sump

[Rosscoe68]

caution. i have a cracked sump. suspect it was from when i changed the engine mounts, and jacked off the sump. although only noticed it about 2 months after. but no other reason i can think of to have a cracked sump.

[mools]

That's kinda what I thought. I look at the sump and it seems to say 'you'll regret jacking off of me'.

What's the alternative? Engine hoist or has anyone else done it differently?

Cheers,

Ian.

[bob10]

That's kinda what I thought. I look at the sump and it seems to say 'you'll regret jacking off of me'.

What's the alternative? Engine hoist or has anyone else done it differently?

Cheers,

Ian.


Hydraulic engine hoist with a chain works, I had to lift the engine until the back almost touched the fire wall. Bob

[happy]

Be carefull when lifting the engine ,you don't damage the bottom radiator hose.
Remove the two 10 mm bolts holding he metal pipe that is connected to the bottom hose.

[happy]

Be carefull when lifting the engine ,you don't damage the bottom radiator hose.
Remove the two 10 mm bolts holding he metal pipe that is connected to the bottom hose.Happy....

[Hay Ewe]

The OP make it sound so simple!
some what frustrating job on my own, and had to jack, block, jack to get enough height.
started out doing the right hand side but ended up doing the left hand side.
Right side this afternoon with a mate what knows stuff

Hay Ewe

[CountP]

I have read and re-read all the how to's I can find on all the LR forums but none say where on the sump they are jacking, front behind the pulley or rear near the drain plug?

I don't have access to hoist so a trolley jack with a few blocks to distrubute the load will have to do.

Any advice by someone who has tackled this job will be appreciated.

Thank
Ryan.

[eckolsim]

A longish lump of wood vertical on the sump edge where the bolts are. Do not jack the sump itself mate. Find somewhere solid and check it will hold before you do anything.

Trial and error for you as I don't remember where I jacked from. When you do lift it, give the car a shake to make sure the jack is solid.

[PhilipA]

X2 for engine crane.
Also when replacing place the mount nuts down for next time. There seems no reason for them to be up , as was probably easier to dress the engine on a stand. But much easier to do up the nuts from below.
Regards Philip A

[Billt]

did this job a couple of months ago. Main problem was how tight the nuts were on my car. Took me and a mate on the breaker bar to move them. Just have to loosen the fuel cooler to get to the top right hand side nut off. Put a jack on a block of wood and jacked the engine from the back corners. It moves easier than you think. But mine doesnt have the rear engine cover to stop it lifting, so could jack it right up against the fire wall. First job I did working on the car, took a couple of hours and lots of sweat.

[CountP]

X2 for engine crane.
Also when replacing place the mount nuts down for next time. There seems no reason for them to be up , as was probably easier to dress the engine on a stand. But much easier to do up the nuts from below.
Regards Philip A
Thanks. I noticed you posted this previously and I agree about turning the bolts around to make life easier.

[CountP]

did this job a couple of months ago. Main problem was how tight the nuts were on my car. Took me and a mate on the breaker bar to move them. Just have to loosen the fuel cooler to get to the top right hand side nut off. Put a jack on a block of wood and jacked the engine from the back corners. It moves easier than you think. But mine doesnt have the rear engine cover to stop it lifting, so could jack it right up against the fire wall. First job I did working on the car, took a couple of hours and lots of sweat.
I got all the bolts out without moving the fuel cooler. The first bolt was so tight I had the power bar on it with a pipe and it was tight to the last thread.

I have 2 trolley jacks so I am going to jack front and rear to distribute load on sump.

[CountP]

As this is a How to, I thought I would add my experience having just fitted the new engine mountings to my D2 td5. I find that often the finer critical details are left out and you can never have too much information.

1. TR Spares in Padstow were by far the cheapest for genuine LR parts. Brilliant service, ordered over the phone and in my hands on the Gold Coast within 24 hours.

2. I would gladly pay someone a few hundred dollars to do this job the next time.

3. It took me 5 hours on my own but I work slow. I was a little apprehensive about jacking the motor up so high so I took my time with that.

4. Tools used were a 1/2inch socket set with a few extensions and a set of offset ring spanners. 15mm and 18mm. BTW a 18mm socket is not usually in a Gedore socket set.

5. I didnt need to remove the fuel cooler bolts but did remove the two bolts that secure the steel water pipe to the body below the radiator. I also loosened the intercooler pipes on either side of the motor.

6. The top nuts on the mountings came out easily enough from the top. As I was working on my own I found that from the top it was possible to wedge the offset ring spanner in place against something solid (not a brake pipe) and then loosen and remove the bolt from the bottom.

7. I used a trolley jack and a long square block of wood 100x100x350mm to jack the motor up. The motor was pretty stable jacked up. I jacked on the front of the sump. Jacking in the centre will get the right (drivers side) mount out, but I had to jack on the left (passenger side) of the sump to rotate the motor to get the left mount out. The rocker cover (without the acoustic cover) was against the firewall before I could get the left mount out. The right mount comes out the bottom easily. The left mount comes out the top but needs quite a bit of maneuvering and rotating to get out.

8. Once the new mountings are in get all the nuts and bolts in place and lower the motor slowly. Make sure the locating pins on the top of the mounting line up with bracket/mounting on the engine. Only once the motor is sitting on the new mounting should you tighten all the bolts and nuts.

Hopefully this makes someone else's job a little easier.

Ryan

[joel0407]

I am just reposting this from another thread I have. It's unedited so might not make complete sense but I'm posting it for the pictures that might help others:

Fount my problem. I had sort of worked it out before I replaced them but taking them out confirmed it.

I worked out it wouldn't vibrate if I parked on flat ground but it would when parked facing down hill. Since the handbrake is on the back on the transfer case, the engine was still twisted by the drive train when parked facing down hill.

I guess as they are apparently oil filled or something they vibration was much less when warm as the oil expended.

So the passenger side was totally gone and the drivers side looked pretty similar to the new ones so I kept it as a spare.

Interesting they were both still well over 5mm from the bottom which I had read was a test of if they are gone or not.

TD5 engine mounts from Land Rover in Darwin were $460 each. From Island 4x4, genuine Land Rover were 40 Pound each plus 41 pound shipping for the 2. They are 2.5kg each.

The old passenger side:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/08/332.jpg (http://s560.photobucket.com/user/joel0407/media/Disco/68C7F2A0-A1BB-4DC6-A877-33B46069C469_zps2eaigw2v.jpg.html)

The new mount: (They are pretty big. Near milo tin size. Bigger than I expected)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/08/333.jpg (http://s560.photobucket.com/user/joel0407/media/Disco/FE257393-3249-4FA4-B9EA-2B451C93C967_zpsqbbu07em.jpg.html)

You can see just how collapsed the old one was:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/08/334.jpg (http://s560.photobucket.com/user/joel0407/media/Disco/32B2B84F-7358-4C4D-83C8-4005DC6C5855_zpsktckbjy6.jpg.html)

I coouldn't get a photo with my phone with the mount in place but you can see there is no sign of the rubber being bottomed out:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/08/335.jpg (http://s560.photobucket.com/user/joel0407/media/Disco/942D6331-83CE-41BD-8846-D3BEC128CF83_zpsqitl4ng6.jpg.html)

The mounts have a single pin to stop the centre turning as the bolt is done up. It doesn't matter if this pin is toward or away from the motor as there 2 holes in the engine bracket to accommodate the mount either way around.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/08/336.jpg (http://s560.photobucket.com/user/joel0407/media/Disco/0CD04F1C-7975-4CBA-BD4B-F03CF2D3B3C3_zpsfqjiwsnk.jpg.html)

The mount was so low I had to bend the heat shield to get a socket on the nut that goes on the Chassis.

Happy Days.

[SPROVER]

Thanks for posting that. I've had my new mounts for about 6 months and haven't changed them yet. Also got them from Island. Much, much, much cheaper then buying here.:) Have you noticed that it is a lot smoother now? Mine are shagged. I get an annoying vibration at idle. You should see the water in my bottle shake when its in the drink holder :D:D

[Disco Muppet]

When I did mine and I first fired it up afterwards, the change was that dramatic that if I couldn't hear the car I wouldn't have known it was running. Auto trans mounts also make a lot of difference

Sent from my HTC One using AULRO mobile app

[joel0407]

Yeh mate, it's not just the vibration that's gone but when I would go over a bump, I'd get a reasonable thump through the whole body. I had suspected I had some worn suspension rubbers that I would get to next but it appears it was the engine bottoming out the mounts that was making the thump. I know I still need sway bar bushes as I can see a gap but at least the mounts have stopped the thump. I'm surprised at the difference it's made.

Something to note. The vibration was only when cold and went away after a bit of running at normal engine temperature. What had me stumped in the beginning was it wouldn't do it all the time. I worked out though that it would do it when parked facing down hill. What I worked out from that was, as the handbrake is on the back of the transfer case, the engine was being twisted by the drive train.

We live in Darwin and it doesn't get too cold here but we did a trip across the top to Queensland, down to Camooweal and back across the Barkley. As it was considerably colder there, the vibration in the mornings was unbelievably bad. I honestly thought the problem was much much worse and I was worried about getting home. Once home, I had mechanics look at it. My neighbor is a heavy vehicle Diesel mech, he looked at it and no one could work it out. Either it wouldn't do it at all or it wouldn't do it so bad. Now I have changed them the difference at idle on flat ground hasn't changed much. Once I took a guess at what it was, I could induce it by cornering hard right.

Happy Days

[steve_a]

I did mine today :o I have the gearbox off so I just engine craned and did both sides at the same time, I wasn't sure if they had gone, but the engine is about 1" higher on the new mounts so I'm guessing they were none too healthy.
Looking forward to starting her up with new mounts, tq and gbox in the next week or two.
Sent from my SM-T530 using AULRO mobile app

[Pedro_The_Swift]

I hope you all will be glad that after 6 years this post has made it the TGO:angel::D

[joel0407]

I hope you all will be glad that after 6 years this post has made it the TGO:angel::D

All the information was there. It just needed some photos. :D

[Jimgee]

Old thread but a very useful one and I'm just going to let others know my experience of changing the mounts.

I am a 'developing' mechanic let's say. Reading many posts on this job some say it's easy and some say it's a right b1tch!

I was in the latter camp. Spent a whole day struggling to get the engine high enough so to any novice mechanics reading this I'll let you know what I learned over the last couple of days. This is just my own opinion and I am sure more experienced mechanics can do it other ways but this is aimed at those who struggle.

First off, forget about doing this with a crappy trolley jack. I got the engine almost high enough with a standard $50 jack jack but it was sketchy and probably very unsafe. I was at the point of putting it all back together and taking it to an expert. But instead I decided to get a proper jack. 2.5 tonne job with 500mm lift. It's not so much the height but the stability. It cost me 200 bucks from repco on sale.

Also, I removed the steel coolant tube as another poster suggested. Also fuel cooler as per original instructions.

Initially, I was jacking from mid sump, this didn't work and just lifted the vehicle as well. Once I got the proper jack in with a piece of 60mm x 30mm x approx 500mm timber placed vertically between the diff and bar (not sure of the proper name) towards the front of the sump the engine went straight up and I could easily access the mounts.

The driver side is relatively easy to switch out from underneath and it all lined up perfectly. I managed to do both at the same time. The passenger side was more problematic but with some maneuvering managed to get it in. However, it did not align perfectly but was only about 2mm out. Speaking to a mechanic mate he assured me it is was ok to muscle the bolt in as the rubber on the mount will bend to it.

I hope this helps someone. I reckon second time around I could do this in a couple of hours, but all things are easy when you know how! [bigsmile]

Cheers all.

[gusthedog]

I did mine recently too - I found it easier to jack up the engine via the edge of the sump to 'twist' the engine and do one side at a time. Gave plenty of room. Left side was still a bit of a bitch though [emoji12]

Next for me is the auto mounts. Should be fun but at least they seem easier to get to.

[Bohica]

I lifted the ebgine up from the front of the sump and removed both mounts at the same time. The LHS one just got pushed off te chassis.

[DazzaTD5]

As the last two posters have mentioned, lift from the front of the sump, it twists the engine in the right way and do both GENUINE (they have a land Rover logo on them) mounts at the same time.

[vbrab]

I did mine recently too - I found it easier to jack up the engine via the edge of the sump to 'twist' the engine and do one side at a time. Gave plenty of room. Left side was still a bit of a bitch though [emoji12]

Next for me is the auto mounts. Should be fun but at least they seem easier to get to.

I have changed out a few sets, and found that jacking by putting a block along the side of the sump and lifting that side, did make it easier to access each mount in turn.
And as everybody will remind you, definitely use genuine mounts, they are an item that should not be substituted with some cheapie option.

[thai_tiger]

youd be lucky to get genuine anymore

[gusthedog]

youd be lucky to get genuine anymoreYou can get them but they are not cheap. Eg: GENUINE Engine Mount for Land Rover TD5 Defender Discovery 2 PAIR KKB500750 (https://www.4wdindustries.com.au/land-rover-td5-defender-discovery-2-pair-genuine-e)

[johnp38]

You can get them but they are not cheap. Eg: GENUINE Engine Mount for Land Rover TD5 Defender Discovery 2 PAIR KKB500750 (https://www.4wdindustries.com.au/land-rover-td5-defender-discovery-2-pair-genuine-e)

That's where I got mine from, and by sheer good fortune ebay had a 15% discount so I got those genuine fronts and aftermarket rears as well for about same as fronts only.

BUT while the fronts (genuine) made an outstanding difference from whole thing shaking at idle to a very low frequency (physical and audible) vibration at idle, changing the rear (with aftermarket) ones made no further improvement. the drivers rear was sheared and there was a block of rubber supporting the transfer case on the crossmember in true bushy fashion.

Has anyone done a swap out between aftermarket and genuine rear mounts coz you were unhappy and did it improve anything?

[Newlandy]

So today I took the plunge and fitted the new LR mountings. The old ones were really in a bad state, I don't think they have ever been replaced before, so they're 20 years old now!

The drivers side on the TD5 engine was relatively painless - took 2 hrs. I jacked up the engine with a jack and piece of steel tubing, using the sump surround where the bolts fit on. No problem, there is some meat there that one can use.

The passengers side was a nightmare. With the auto box there are cooling pipes in the way and there's not much meat on that side of the sump, 1cm max where the wood/steel can fit/lift against. I eventually made a steel bracket to lift the engine and after 4 hours of jacking, using different jacks, wood, steel etc I could get the old (collapsed) mounting out but not get the new one in. The engine was just not high enough. What a pig of a job!

Eventually just borrowed an engine hoist and lifted the engine on the front lift point, took all of 10 minutes! The engine was high up against the bulkhead.

In future I think the entire job would probably take 2-3 hrs with an engine hoist. Hopefully I'll never have to do the job again..

[Bohica]

So

In future I think the entire job would probably take 2-3 hrs with an engine hoist. Hopefully I'll never have to do the job again..

It took me and mate maybe 3.5 4 hours to do mine. A few tea breaks, not in a rush as we'd never done this before, and may never do this again.

[Tins]

All the information was there. It just needed some photos. :D

Thanks to the idiocy of foto bouquet they no longer exist....

I'm about to tackle mine[bigsad]. I've had them sitting for a while, bought them from the legendary Mario.

I'll see if I can remember to take pics.....

[Tins]

I want to say it took me 3 hours... and it did, of actual work. Just that my old body doesn't leap up from under like it used to, and my fractured spine ain't fully healed yet, so call it 5...

Pretty straightforward imo, I have done much harder jobs. It really helps to have a crane, and a good assortment of cordless tools. I don't know if I'd have got the driver's side top nut undone without the big rattler.

Car is much smoother, even though I don't think my old ones were as bad as some.

188693

Mario had the right stuff.....

188694

[Epic_Dragon]

Dad and I did mine about 3 years ago, just used a jack and a long long bar and 1 side at a time. Had a block of wood and rubber on the jack. Took us about an hour which we expected a big fight but didn't find one. Probably need to do them again as I could only afford the cheap ones at the time so don't expect them to last well.

[Tins]

Dad and I did mine about 3 years ago, just used a jack and a long long bar and 1 side at a time. Had a block of wood and rubber on the jack. Took us about an hour which we expected a big fight but didn't find one. Probably need to do them again as I could only afford the cheap ones at the time so don't expect them to last well.

Having two people would make a huge difference. Even the encouragement would help...

[Epic_Dragon]

It definitely makes things easier and more fun :)
Having two people would make a huge difference. Even the encouragement would help...

[Bohica]

I want to say it took me 3 hours... and it did, of actual work. Just that my old body doesn't leap up from under like it used to, and my fractured spine ain't fully healed yet, so call it 5...

Pretty straightforward imo, I have done much harder jobs. It really helps to have a crane, and a good assortment of cordless tools. I don't know if I'd have got the driver's side top nut undone without the big rattler.

Car is much smoother, even though I don't think my old ones were as bad as some.

188693

Mario had the right stuff.....

188694

Tutorial
Dropbox - Engine mounts replacement.pdf - Simplify your life (https://www.dropbox.com/s/rut0gbtwy2o5dn0/Engine%20mounts%20replacement.pdf'dl=0)

[Tins]

Tutorial
Dropbox - Engine mounts replacement.pdf - Simplify your life (https://www.dropbox.com/s/rut0gbtwy2o5dn0/Engine%20mounts%20replacement.pdf'dl=0)

Think I prefer the crane to all of those bits of wood.

[RRT]

Have been searching for Genuine D2 TD5 gearbox mounts and keep coming up sold out and anecdotally the difficulty in finding them / availability.

Inadvertently while looking for something else, came across a page where they state

2 x Genuine Land Rover TD5 Discovery 2 / Defender and Puma Engine Mount KKB500750LR


I had been searching for the KKB500750 Discovery 2 TD5 engine mount or such variations and all I would get was aftermarket stuff and if they referenced OEW, sold out.


They are not cheap but they are available genuine, just now it is KKB500750LR

[AK83]

Not too far from you in Nth Melb is British Car Components

10 Provost St Nth Melb.

Call Dave there, and see if he has them. He will have both types, as this is what people want ... some genuine, some cheaper.
Dunno what he'll have in stock at any time tho.