Td5 rough at Idle

[Ean Austral]

Gday all,Wondering if anyone has had this problem before, the car seems to be very rough at Idle, almost like to low idle revs.Goes fine once you get going so have done the following..
Changed fuel filter-no noticeable difference,Removed aircleaner,turned off aircon(alittle better as expected) Is slightly better in neutrel than with the cluch in whilst in gear but still idles rough.
I had the problem before I got it chipped thinging the reset chip may improve it but still seems rough.
The spotties and antenna base viabrate so that i how bad it is.The car has done 200k no work has been done on the fuel system bar the injector harness.Any thoughts?
Cheers Ean

[justinc]

Revisit the injector harness issue; unplug the ECU plugs and they may still be soaked in oil. It is common for this to occur again after replacing the harness as the oil left in the loom continues to travel down the wires. You may need to clean the ECU plugs again after this time too, and don't forget to check the MAF and AAT sensor plugs at the airbox as I have seen these oily too, causing faults and poor running.

'CO' contact cleaner is your friend:)


JC

[Ean Austral]

Not being the full bottle on these things, I was always under the impression that once you disconnect the plugs from the ECU you need the landrover computer codes to reset them when plugged back in..Is this not so?..Thanks for the advice.
Cheers Ean

[Psimpson7]

No you can unplug and replug at will!

[justinc]

Not being the full bottle on these things, I was always under the impression that once you disconnect the plugs from the ECU you need the landrover computer codes to reset them when plugged back in..Is this not so?..Thanks for the advice.
Cheers Ean

Not necessary unless the injectors themselves have been moved to another pos in the head, IE from number 3 to number 5 cylinder etc, and then it is only required to 'trim' the injector for max efficiency. The resetting of an ECU really only needs to be done when switching from one vehicle to another as each vehicle communicates with the ECU via the rolling code in the immobiliser, and needs to recognise a valid code to enable the engine ECU to 'unlock'. This won't be a problem if you are unplugging, cleaning and refitting your original computer. it can even remain out of the vehicle for days etc and will be fine unless you configure another ECU its place, and then the rolling code gets interupted AFAIR.(Haven't tried this bit, but in theory that is what can happen)

JC

[Psimpson7]

it can even remain out of the vehicle for days etc and will be fine unless you configure another ECU its place, and then the rolling code gets interupted AFAIR.(Haven't tried this bit, but in theory that is what can happen)

JC

That doesn't cause an issue either JC in my experience. I have a whole pile of them which I swap around and they all work all the time, once the codes are put in (Security and injectors) once.

(unless I have msiunderstood what you mean!)

[justinc]

That doesn't cause an issue either JC in my experience. I have a whole pile of them which I swap around and they all work all the time, once the codes are put in (Security and injectors) once.

(unless I have msiunderstood what you mean!)

Aah, thanks Pete, haven't tried this, so thanks for the info!
In theory, the rolling code should be lost once another gets substituted, but obviously not.
I'll add that to my list of learnt things this week!:):)(And its only Monday:o)

JC

[MarknDeb]

Ours got a little rough at idle and had the engine mounts changed, all fine now but i can imagine the list of things to cause this could be a mile long

[Ean Austral]

Back 2 the ECU, now that I have had another 1 put into my car and the codes changed from the old 1 to the new 1, I wont have any problems unplugging the ECU connections..Is that right?
Cheers Ean

[justinc]

Back 2 the ECU, now that I have had another 1 put into my car and the codes changed from the old 1 to the new 1, I wont have any problems unplugging the ECU connections..Is that right?
Cheers Ean


Correct Ean, it'll be fine:)

JC

[Ean Austral]

Thanks for the info,another job on the list..think im outta numbers will have to start using letters now on the list.
Cheers Ean

[jmkoffice]

Gday all,Wondering if anyone has had this problem before, the car seems to be very rough at Idle, almost like to low idle revs.Goes fine once you get going so have done the following..
Changed fuel filter-no noticeable difference,Removed aircleaner,turned off aircon(alittle better as expected) Is slightly better in neutrel than with the cluch in whilst in gear but still idles rough.
I had the problem before I got it chipped thinging the reset chip may improve it but still seems rough.
The spotties and antenna base viabrate so that i how bad it is.The car has done 200k no work has been done on the fuel system bar the injector harness.Any thoughts?
Cheers Ean
Start with basic troubleshooting:

1. Have you ruled out the engine mounts are not collapsed - causing vibration to the chassis? This can be confirmed by carefully supporting the engine with a trolley jack - taking the weight off the mounts whilst idling. If vibration goes away - there's your main problem.

Similar to MarknDeb above, replacing my mounts stopped all engine vibration in the vehicle.

[Ean Austral]

Just to let you know,pulled the red plug on the ECU and was amased by the amount of oil present.I thought it may have be cleaned when the stealership fitted the new ECU,(at $120 p/h you would think so,but didnt see no charge for any contact cleaner so can only guess) if they did then I will be cleaning it weekly.Will check it again in a couple of days just to see..Car seems back to normal so another lesson learnt. Thanks to all who offered thier time and advice.
Cheers Ean

[justinc]

Just to let you know,pulled the red plug on the ECU and was amased by the amount of oil present.I thought it may have be cleaned when the stealership fitted the new ECU,(at $120 p/h you would think so,but didnt see no charge for any contact cleaner so can only guess) if they did then I will be cleaning it weekly.Will check it again in a couple of days just to see..Car seems back to normal so another lesson learnt. Thanks to all who offered thier time and advice.
Cheers Ean

Ean,
In their defence, I have fitted heaps of the upgraded looms etc and always advise customers that there is a high probability of having to clean the plugs again, due to oil remaining in the engine harness. Usually 1 or 2 cleans over 6 months and the oil is all gone. LR actually replaced the whole engine harness in the past during warranty claims for this problem:o
Glad it's fixed though!:)

JC

[Ean Austral]

Thanks for your help and advice JC,im sure in anyother place where there is more than 1 option to have L/rover software available I would agree, but this is Darwin and until you see/hear the attitude of the service section you would proberly understand my reasons for the comment.
Thanks again,just going to check the engine mounts after reading the last thread,
Cheers Ean

[aston]

I would still have a look at the EGR and see if it is jambed open

[justinc]

Thanks for your help and advice JC,im sure in anyother place where there is more than 1 option to have L/rover software available I would agree, but this is Darwin and until you see/hear the attitude of the service section you would proberly understand my reasons for the comment.
Thanks again,just going to check the engine mounts after reading the last thread,
Cheers Ean

Hmmm, disappointing when that happens. Time to check out a Nanocom or Rovacom Faultmate or similar. VERY useful for late LR owners.


JC

[Ean Austral]

Where do you het them, and what do you need?
Cheers Ean

[jmkoffice]

For those interested in the end result of this thread, Ean's vibration issue was fixed by simply replacing the engine mounts.

See: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery/74307-td5-engine-mounts.html

.

[MarknDeb]

Ours got a little rough at idle and had the engine mounts changed, all fine now but i can imagine the list of things to cause this could be a mile long


:angel::angel::angel::cool:

[geckos]

I had a problem maybe like this. I had rough idling sparodicly. On and off. Then one time it wouldnt start at all. After a while i got it trayed to LR dealer (roadside assisstance) and they said it was the fuel pump relay. Changed end of story.

Worth a try, just my thought. Other people on here are more informed though.

geck:)

[MarknDeb]

Yes Geckos thats just the thing with the TD5's soooo many thing can cause similar syptoms, its like a luckey dip with finding the cause. Its great that Ean got it sorted in the end ;)

[nzlandies]

I had this issue up untill yesterday, really bad idle and jerky on light throttle. It has been getting worse and using more fuel. After much mucking about I unplugged the ambient air temp sensor. FIXED IT! It was telling the engine it was cold outside and gave it loads of fuel. I heard someone on this site that often no sensor is better than a buggered one. I have new one ordered.

I am also getting the clutch done on monday as its buggered and will probably do the flywheel as well as it rattles when I switch the engine off. Hope it smooths things out re vibration at revs like everyone else has got.