Spot to mount Air Compressor? [Archive] - Australian Land Rover Owners

wardh

25th February 2009, 10:19 PM

Fatnold,

I thought about the same thing myself the other day. I am doing the very same thing as you. Said goodbye to the D1 4 weeks ago and am currently setting up the D3 tdv6

A very attractive place I spotted for a compressor was the spot in front of the main battery compartment. Easy to pick up power by mounting a outlet on the side of the compartment faceing the front of the vehicle and there is even a threaded hole that could be used for a bracket to mount the compressor. I am now looking for a suitable sized compressor to fit in the space.

Cheers

Howard

gghaggis

26th February 2009, 09:33 AM

Depending on the size, and whether you have the rear AC, you can fit one in the rear passenger-side cubbyhole - power already there for connection.

Cheers,

Gordon

andycapper

26th February 2009, 09:48 AM

Hi Folks,

I decided to fit a compressor to my '08 D3 recently and decided on the ARB high capacity compressor. However I did not much like the way I had seen it fitted - by ARB among others - and felt that a tailor made mounting bracket, attached in part to the two spare captive nuts just below/in front of the battery box, would be a better way to go.

I discussed this with Damian at Peninsula Rangie in Frankston and we took a look at what was required to mount it.

It is a little tricky as you need to remove the innner guard in order to position a couple of bolts at the bottom.

Anyway the result was that Damian had some brackets made up and I am very happy with the end result - which also helps to keep the compressor away from various holes through which water/mud etc may enter if you go paddling.

He also did not use the ARB wiring loom, which is over-kill for a compressor-only installation as it is designed to suit both basic compressor use and the driving of ARB air lockers - but you do need to use adequate capacity wiring, fuse, relay and switch (though I guess you may be able to use at least a part of the ARB loom and bits) as these - and similar compressors - draw a lot of current.

I find it a quick and efficient compressor, especially if you have the engine running when it is in use (probably better for the compressor as it would lead to a slightly higher voltage and lower current draw).

If you need more info, let me know.

All best,

Andy

WhiteD3

26th February 2009, 10:01 AM

Andy,

Some pics would be great:D

fatnold

26th February 2009, 10:18 AM

Andy,

Some pics would be great:D

Too fast! :)

fatnold

26th February 2009, 10:22 AM

Depending on the size, and whether you have the rear AC, you can fit one in the rear passenger-side cubbyhole - power already there for connection.

Do you mean in where the tow bar/ hitch thing is stored??
Looks like a definite possible. :)

Bushwanderer

26th February 2009, 01:32 PM

I wasn't very keen on the various options for mounting a compressor and so went with the ARB "compressor in a box" option. I'm happy, so far. :BigThumb:

Best Wishes,
Peter

peterpam

26th February 2009, 07:01 PM

I fitted mine in the compartment that's in the engine bay in front of the driver. There's a cover that unclips and inside a perfect & tidy spot for a compressor.

Peter

Will

27th February 2009, 08:18 AM

Fitted mine (the older ARB compressor from the D1) in front of the main battery. Sufficient space on the guard to allow all fittings etc. Then 'plumbed' the air intake to the rear of the vehicle so that I can easily pump up the van tyres when needed.

Also made up my own wiring loom to make fitting simpler and neater.

AndrewM

27th February 2009, 10:17 AM

BlackPerth (UK forum - DISCO3.CO.UK) has this photo in his gallery of his ARB compressor mounted on the LH guard in front of the main battery. I've seen it "in the flesh" and it is a neat installation.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/02/104.jpg

CaverD3

27th February 2009, 01:24 PM

Or not bother with a compressor - use the one you have already.:D

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/02/91.jpg

You need a regulator as the tank air is at 210PSI +. :o

Yowie13

4th March 2009, 01:17 PM

I'm in the process of weening myself off my beloved D1 and onto my D3. First order of business was some tyres. 5 x BFG 265 65 18R's.
First issue. The spare doesn't fit (in usual spot) when properly inflated. :mad:
So now i really should have a compressor on board all the time instead of just chucking it in when going on a trip.

Has anyone found a nice place to fit one in?

Same spot as a few others. In front of the main Battery. Made a bracket to mount the ARB compressor from some bits from Bunnings. Used existing mounting points to bolt it all into place. Solid mount and great compressor.

andycapper

5th March 2009, 10:01 AM

nnn

andycapper

5th March 2009, 10:27 AM

If at first you don't succeed....hopefully this (reduced size) attachment will get in!

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=14041&stc=1&d=1236213696

The bracket uses two existing captive nuts just in front of the battery box. The lower bolts necessitated removal of the inner guard to drill the holes and fit them - drilling blind would be risky due to the hidden construction, ribs and components beneath.

Orientation and location of bracket/compressor is intended to minimise risk of the compressor being hit with a jet of muddy water through the holes below. Still leave the plastic plug in place when not in use to keep dust etc out of the coupling.

The compressor works very well (even better with engine running).

More (and higher resolution) photos in my gallery, if of interest.

CaverD3

5th March 2009, 11:29 AM

For those who are interested tapping into the tank is easy.
You will need to get some bits for the connections. Bunnings stock some but you will need a stop cock as well.
Get an engineering shop to tap a hole in the tank bung.
You will need to release the air from the tank but slightly loosening the bung.

DO NOT UNDO FAR, JUST ENOUGH TO RELEASE THE AIR SLOWLY. THE TANK HAS AIR AT 210psi PLUS! :no2::o

For this reason you will need an in line regulator to bring the pressure below 100psi.

I used a different one (and removed the guage) but this one should be enough for tyres:

https://www.air-supply.com.au/shop/product.php?printable=Y&productid=16545&cat=333&bestseller=Y

Order:
Tank
Stop cock
regulator
Nitto self closing connection
Male/ female ended nitto fitted hose
tyre guage and fitting.

As the suspension is down with the bung out you will need to take the bung to an engineering shop to thread it for you.
Put it all together with some Teflon tape and check for leaks.

You will need to close the valve when connecting and disconnecting the hose.

Usual caveats apply do any changes at your own risk.

smwilk

5th March 2009, 02:56 PM

HI Caver,

I'm very interested in your system, could you please answer the following: -

Does the stop cock thread/tap into the existing brass bung?
Why do you need to close the valve to connect the hose? ie isn't the pressure regulated at connection?
Is the grey line the factory air suspension hose?

Thx for sharing this mod with us all. Cheers

CaverD3

5th March 2009, 03:52 PM

Get an engineering shop to tap a hole in the tank bung.

As the supension is down with the bung out you will need to take the bung to an engineering shop to thread it for you.

All threads you will use are 3/8 inch fittings I think, so a hole needs to be drilled and threaded in the bung to match the thread on the stop cock first. You may need a male to male connector for this or between the stop cock and the regulator.

Even at 100psi there is still a lot of pressure making it hard to connect the hose especially as you are doing it underneath the vehicle.

WazzaACT

5th March 2009, 08:20 PM

Will. Did you mean the air intake or outlet that you plumbed to the rear.

robruss83

5th March 2009, 08:37 PM

Hi I'm New we have just bought a new 2.4Litre lDefender and are experiencing a problem with heat coming through the floor . I have a temp. probe attached to the floor and on a 200km. trip under the seats at the rear of the seats and the floor are registering a temperature of 47 degrees Celcius . On trip from Sydney to Melbourne 11 + hours 900+ kms. It was even Hotter . The dealership are saying these temperatures are normal and so is the landrover care assistance people . Surely this is not nomal especially as the gear box/ transmission are so hot you cannot leave your hand on them. I have travelled re 12000 kms.
Can anyone help as it is extremely uncomfortable in the cabin?
Contact thru robruss83@hotmail.com

CaverD3

5th March 2009, 10:10 PM

Try posting in the general or defender section.
Not sure how you ended up in the D3 section.:confused:

George II

7th March 2009, 02:35 PM

Hi, I managed to squeeze a Thomas Super Pump into the space in front of the main battery, made up a mounting bracket our of a piece of s/s plate I had & again as the others have said used the existing mounting holes to attach it. (I had thought I would have to sell this great pump & downsize when I first got the D3) but with a bit of juggling & careful measuring it slotted in. Had to get it in quickly though as I was getting a few other mods done like duel batteries etc & the mechanics were eyeing off that spot to fit the controller.
Rgds

Graeme

8th March 2009, 06:46 AM

Or not bother with a compressor - use the one you have already.
In a damp climate the air dryer might over time become water-logged as damp air is dried going into the air system but not released back through the dryer to remove the water if the air hose is used a lot.

CaverD3

8th March 2009, 07:34 AM

In a damp climate the air dryer might over time become water-logged as damp air is dried going into the air system but not released back through the dryer to remove the water if the air hose is used a lot.

Same would be true if you off road a lot or adjust the suspension when you go into car parks.
Haven't noticed the poms having a lot of problems in their climate.:angel:

Time will tell I suppose but I don't intend to use it a lot anyway.

Blknight.aus

8th March 2009, 07:54 AM

why go to that much effort....

buy a 6mm press T, some 6mm plastic hose, a ball valve, and the correct adaptor to fit that and the female quick connector of your choice (I use nitto)

cut the primary feed line to the tank, install the t fitting, branch to to the ball valve then the nitto.

the nice thing is that you can put the fitting anywhere you like.

CaverD3

8th March 2009, 11:36 AM

So the tube into the tank is a standard 6mm hose and will take a quick connect?
But it is a small opening and will restrict flow a bit though. If you are pumping up a flat tyre it will be slow.

fatnold

8th March 2009, 07:47 PM

Or not bother with a compressor - use the one you have already.:D

Now we're talking. :)

So what are the down sides? What controls the compressor, is there a pressure switch in the tank? Does the compressor only run when the engine is running? Where the heck is the tank and for that matter the compressor? (I could get my lazy arse under the thing and have a look I guess :)) Is the capacity/ duty cycle of the existing compressor suitable for inflating tyres?

It all sounds too easy........

CaverD3

8th March 2009, 08:51 PM

Compressor only runs with engine on. Tank as I said is at 210psi plus. Plenty for re-flating tyres but may be slow to re-fill for punctre repair.
I attached mine to the front of the tank so it cab easily be removed if a warranty issue crops up.

smwilk

9th March 2009, 11:00 AM

Hi Caver,

My bung is not brass? was yours?

You can buy a reducer part ie male bung with internal female thread. Do you know what size thread the bung is? looks like 3/4"

Thx again.

CaverD3

9th March 2009, 12:19 PM

Yes mine was brass, what is yours? stainless/
You cannot get a reducer plug to fit the tank. I have searched. Thread is M20 1.5mm. Very unusual. You will need to get it machined a problem if it is stainless. Could be chromed brass?
I am getting some plugs made for the shortened rod system which will also be supplied with a nitto fitting.

smwilk

9th March 2009, 04:03 PM

Try this mob, they seem to have an reducer: -

TubeFit Industrial Products - National Customer Service 1800 777 299 (http://www.tubefit.com.au/sect2/02.html)

CaverD3

9th March 2009, 04:24 PM

Thanks smwilk,
Great site a few things cheaper than elsewhere.

Graeme

9th March 2009, 04:35 PM

Same would be true if you off road a lot or adjust the suspension when you go into car parks.
Haven't noticed the poms having a lot of problems in their climate.:angel:

Time will tell I suppose but I don't intend to use it a lot anyway.
I should have been precise with my statement - the air is dried as it goes into the tank, then the drier is dried as the air leaves the tank. Anyway, I couldn't imagine it would be a problem in a dry climate.

smwilk

13th March 2009, 04:29 PM

CaverD3, ended up finding the reducer at a local supplier for $5. They are manufactured and distributed by the following: -

Welcome To Industrial Fittings Sales (http://www.ifsaus.com.au)

Installation completed last night in about 10 mins, all good. Did you use teflon tape on the tank thread? I didn't and no leaks so far.

Once again thanks, you have saved me the cost of a compressor!

CaverD3

13th March 2009, 04:53 PM

I used tape, a good precaution as the air is at 230psi and if it leaks your tank drains and the compressor works harder.

What regulator did you use?

Disco3z

13th March 2009, 05:46 PM

Hi Guys comining in late on the thread but wanted to say i have gone with the T piece concept in the main line to the tank but more for flexibility.

The idea is that if I damage the Tank or the line bursts (which I have splicers for) or for any other compressor related problems in which the suspension hieght drops while off road; I can use the ARB compressor mounted as most everyone elses, to pump the suspension back up.

I'm no expert but it works for me, although yet to be tested in the field.

Cheers
JZ

CaverD3

13th March 2009, 06:02 PM

Disco3z

14th March 2009, 04:20 AM

I think that attaching another compressor may not work as the LR compressor has a temp sensor, a pressure sensor and a secondary air tank as part of the compressor unit.
Interesting to see if it does still work?

Thanks for the thoughts. My idea was, probably not as well thought out as yours. the idea i'm working on is that if the tank runs at 210PSI and the ARB can put out 180PSI, with a pressure shut off. that then in and emergency I would be able to, either cut into the main line from the tank to the compresssor unit to simply add some lift to the airbags. I had not thought that the aircompressor would have any kind of failsafe that would prevent this.

I have the fittings and when I get my rig back and yank off the sliders i'll have to do some tests.

if this does not work, from this section of line, what about a complete bypass of the compressor to get the rig aired up, should such an emergency require?

Hey by the way, one of the LR instructors, who's worked all over the planet with LR has told me that he's seen 4 Disco 3's end up with the airline from the tank to the compressor burn through and bleed the system, to the point that the rig ends up all the way down on it's stoppers, with no way to get it back up.

He said the airline must have burned through because of all the mud caked on and around them and the Catalytic converter - loads of heat for sure. At his sugestion and some other second hand advice, I ran a bit of heater hose over the line to act as an insulator as well as bought a couple in-line adapters should the hose ever be cut or burned through. Even with that plastic cover on there, it can get packed with mud.

Cheers
JZ

CaverD3

14th March 2009, 06:31 AM

Disco3z

14th March 2009, 11:02 AM

You could try unplugging the power lead from the compressor leaving the sensor leads connected. Then trying to attach the ARB compressor, I would try with T piece so the ARB pressurises the line to the LR compressor.
What size is the main tube into the tank? Will quick connects work? If your idea works one could just cut in an emergency and put a T piece in with line to the comp.
I think I can get hold of an old compressor to take apart.

The main line to the stock D3 tank is 1/4 inch, about 6 mil, just like airbrake line on road trains. Note I may be speaking out of turn with road trains, cause here the big rigs use it. I should proibably point out that the couplers aree 1/4 inch.

So yes quick connects work and then with the quick connect T I attach a screw in valve, just like a tire valve stem. The same but it screws in so it axcts like a tire would.

Was at LR dealer today and spoike with the mechanic, he think it should work, but said he would check hi manuals better. I'm not sure if the compressor runs direct to the tank or if it goes to the valve, thingy first, before running to the tank. I won't be removing my sliders to look, too much work at the moment, but either way it should work, even if you only splice between the valve and the line splitters.

From memory the lines run from the pump to the tank and from there to splitters/valves, etc.

If the pump fails this metthod should work. If the height sensors bust, you are better off to carry 4 spare seensors, (You need one for each tire so i am told and they are all unique). Further more I am told that if a height sensor fails, which is more common than the pump, that you can simply replace it, but this will not clear the fault light. The mechanic said he'd check if this fault requires the system to be cleared via computer or if simply disconnecting the battery would do the trick.

I'm not sure that the guy will actually check this out or not and i just pushed these guys to breaking point getting some stuff done via the extended warranty so i wont push, until i get them something nice to drink outside work hours, for their help. So if anyoine else knows about the height sensor warning and cleariing the system that would help.

Cheers

smwilk

14th March 2009, 12:34 PM

I used the one you found. $18 including postage of $10 as I could not locate one locally. I don't as yet have a guage to calibrate the regulator and as such, I have not used it and will not until I get one. The stop cock is shut.

I think this mod is the best way from a warranty perspective, if it goes to the steeler, I just put back the OEM plug = 5 mins!

smwilk

19th March 2009, 09:50 AM

Caver, I received a catalogue with the inline regulator you found. It says max working pressure is 90psi!! My stop cock valve looks identical to yours, I'm wondering if it's rated?. I'm a little concerned with the 210psi and am quite surprised the tank is even rated to that. I'm into scuba diving and that's the sort of pressures we run but in a much sturdier cylinder. 210 seems enormous for the type of fittings LR have used? Any thoughts

CaverD3

19th March 2009, 11:34 AM

The stop ball valve I have is rated >300psi. The conquence of failure of the regulator on scuba gear is far greater than on the D3 tank. Worst case just close the valve.
The small reg seems solid and simple so it may well be adequate. I used a slightly more expensive one with a guage and removed the guage. What rating does it give for that one?

smwilk

20th March 2009, 10:07 AM

The same brass regulator with the guage had the same rating = 90 PSI max. I agree that it all looks pretty sturdy and will adequately cope with the pressure. I released that bung a little fast the other night, went off like a bomb!

CaverD3

20th March 2009, 12:17 PM

As said 230psi can be dangerous. Open valve and vent bfore removing bung!

The max 90psi could be the max psi the regulator can be set at?
Most air supplies are about 150psi.

Crash68

12th May 2009, 03:27 PM

Just wondering where the air tank is mounted on the d3 so i can plumb in some air fittings?

CaverD3

12th May 2009, 04:10 PM

Under the passenger side, but not as easy as you think.
Beware the maual puts the pressure at 244 psi. :o

Crash68

12th May 2009, 05:31 PM

anymore clues, front, back, middle, high or low, is there a drain valve on it or just the bung?

CaverD3

12th May 2009, 05:45 PM

It's fairly obvious if you look underneath. Just a bung doesn't need draining as the D3s compressor has a dryer.

Crash68

12th May 2009, 06:26 PM

thanks for that.

CaverD3

12th May 2009, 06:39 PM

Be carefull when you remove the bung, it has a flat side to the thread to let the air out, open slowly and it will release slowly. Do not undo comletely unti all the air is out!

Roger

12th September 2009, 03:39 PM

gghaggis

12th September 2009, 08:02 PM

Has anyone mounted an ARB compressor in a V6 Petrol 09 D3?
There is a fuel pump or similar up infront of the main battery box which seems not to be there when I look at some of the pictures of diesel installs on this thread. Any advise on mounts or brackets would be very much appreciated.

That would be the Fuel Burning Heater that is available on Northern Hemisphere models - over here the space in front of the battery is normally free. That's where I originally mounted my dual-pump compressor.

However, I'm not a fan of mounting these in the engine bay - they get hot enough as it is, let alone being hit by water, mud and sand. The ARB unit is designed for under-bonnet mounting and so may withstand the environment better, but I still prefer installation inside the car, eg in one of the rear boot compartments.

Cheers,

Gordon

Bushwanderer

13th September 2009, 03:43 PM

Hi All,
I went for the ARB "compressor in a box" solution. The plastic box protects things while holding everything that I need. It also means that I can have the compressor outside the car when using it, meaning less disturbance to anyone inside. Further, I can readily take it to other vehicles in need.

HTH,
Peter

MitchellBros4x4

13th September 2009, 04:31 PM

AnD3rew

13th September 2009, 04:58 PM

Or here is this option:

Discovery 3 - Air Off Kit (http://store.mitchellbros.com.au/discovery-3-tow-hitch/discovery-3-air-off-kit.html)

You then have nine litres of air at 240 psi to play with. :D

cheers
Caver D3

With respect you guys have some great Disco stuff, which improves the original vehicle, but it is in my opinion on the expensive side, for $330 you can get a modestly good non mounted air compressor which will do the job just fine and you can take with you when you move to another vehicle. I would buy this kit from you if it was about half the price.

Same goes for your Mitch hitch, it is a great idea and significantly improves the OEM hitch, but at $600+ it costs almost as much as a full set up for a basic towbar for a regular car. Again about half the price and I would consider it.

Roger

18th September 2009, 06:34 AM

Just found this bargain for a compressor. Don't know if its any good, but at the price it might be worth the risk, and could be a stand-by or home use item. 150L / Min Super Heavy Duty Air Compressor (http://www.soldsmart.com.au/l3.aspx?goods=WM1026&gclid=CMXS3vTQ-JwCFQ0aawod7QlybA)

Roger

18th September 2009, 06:38 AM

Hi gghaggis, I have checked it out and it is the ULP fuel pump. I certainly dont have a fuel burning heater - mind you some mornings this winter I wish I had! - Must be getting old! Can can post a pic if you would like.
Thanks

[QUOTE=gghaggis;1068190]That would be the Fuel Burning Heater that is available on Northern Hemisphere models - over here the space in front of the battery is normally free. That's where I originally mounted my dual-pump compressor.