Td5 engine mounts

[Ean Austral]

Gday All,change the engine mounts on the disco today following the How too by Pohm66, and would just like to thank him for this info.I did find that I needed a couple of extra tools than he did mainly a 150mm socket extension and a long 10mm socket, but his method was spot on..Wasn't impressed when I read the RAVE manual and it said to take the Turbo off.
Would also say its not possible to do it on your own, unless you have 4 arms(my so-called helper never showed) but with the help of the 14y/o daughter we managed..Took slightly more than 3.5 hrs but its done.
Once again thanks to Pohm66..
Cheers Ean

[jmkoffice]

Ean, did it make a world of difference? It sure did for me......

[McDisco]

What were the indications that you had to change them? Extra vibration upon had excelleration, driveline issues, noise? Or was it just a visual inspection?

Angus

[Ean Austral]

Gday All,The car used to viabrate at idol that bad the spotties and antenna would rattle, the gearshift was noisy and never felt right,I noticed it worse when sitting in the back.When the car was driving it seemed fine.I read the thread about looking underneath and there should be a gap between the mount and the rubber inside, well mine was touching the mount.
It is a totally different car, even my daughter commented about it and when the music is as loud as they have it , its saying something.
Would definately reccommend looking at the mount rubber as Pohm66 said to do.As stoked with the difference.
Cheers Ean

[catch-22]

Thanks Ean. This is my next task.

Done tyres, shocks and steering damper and the difference is amazing. I can not only see the rubber through the hole in the bottom of the mount but I can push the rubber in a couple of centimetres.

Did you get yours from Land Rover Aus? I am trying to find the best possible price as I have spent a packet, albeit well worth it, in the last two weeks.

Cheers
Caine

[Ean Austral]

Hi Caine,done the same to mine, new bilsteins, steering damper, tyres filters, the list goes on.. I could also push my rubbers back-in on the mounts. I got mine from Triumph rover in SA but managed to get a set from a car that had done 10k so got them for $150 pair, think they cost about that each brand new.. I've found that for me in Darwin that Triumph Rover are as cheap as anyone.
If you are doing it yourself, follow the steps in the tutorial section, but dont be surprised by how high you have to jack the engine as the new mounts are alot higher than the ones you remove.I made the mistake of looking at the engine from the front when it was jacked up to do the Turbo side and was shocked. If you have a dual battery on that side you will have to remove it and the tray. I also found it easier to remove the fuel cooler bottom bolts from underneath,but that could just be me.
Goodluck with it..
Cheers Ean

[porgey]

My D2 Td5 was vibrating badly around 1700 to 1800rpm usualy when powering up. It would also do it revving the engine whilst not moving that sort of ruled out the propshafts. (Cardon)

Had done the Injector loom and cleaned out oil in the main loom at a previous time

Climbed under took a look at the engine mounts. The rubbers were sitting on the base.

My better half and myself installed a new set of Genuine LR mounts. $270 plus tax a pair and yes we were offered cheaper non genuines but was happy to pay that price for LR ones

Took us the better part of a day ,we are re- TIRED so whats the hurry .

Road tested today. Vast improvement still got a little vibration but at higher RPM not nearly as bad as it was.

Thanks for the tips fellas, we also gave the RAVE way a miss, (Am not saying he RAVE way is incorrect but there are short cuts) only difference maybe a bit over cautious but I undid the bolt at the steel coolant lines at the chassis bracket under the radiator it semed to be under strain when we jacked the engine right up. Apart from that A1.OK
Cheers George & Pauline

[Urban Panzer]

Guys a question for those who have replaced the mounts,

I done mine a few days ago, and through the speed range etc its DEF much better, but at idle you can feel a LOT more in the cabin.

I put this down to the mounts being a lot tighter, maybe they will loosen up a bit ?

Upon inspection of mine both had collapsed and were EASY to wiggle by hand when I had got them out, the new ones were very difficult to "wiggle" as they are obviously not worn. The old ones had both dropped significantly as well, but it was smoother at idle with the old ones ?

Any thoughts / opinons on how they were / are now when idling ?

[jmkoffice]

Mate, very interesting. All vibrations from the engine should be reduced as new mounts isolate the engine better. Are the replacement mounts genuine? If you replaced mounts using the "raise engine" method, could you have moved or stretched something, causing vibration to transfer accross to the chassis/body? Maybe the gearbox mounts need replacing as well? Let us know...

[Urban Panzer]

They are OEM mounts, but when compairing to the originals they look identical.

I did lift / support the engine using an engine crane, I did have a good look to see what if anything was "stretching" etc. I cannot think of anything that would have moved to cause the issue ??

I even loosened them both of yesterday and ran the engine at idle in a hope it would "settle" so to speak, but that made no improvement either.

Both gearbox mounts were replaced a month ago as they were shot to and it was after doing them I "felt" the front end was "looser" if that makes sense so decided to do the front 2 aswell.

its getting annoying now tbh, Im almost getting to the point where I will throw the old ones back in :(

[jmkoffice]

Whilst idling, suspend the engine from underneath with a trolly jack. If you take the weight off the mounts and you feel the vibration decrease, you know to start troubleshooting the mounts again. If no difference, something else may be up.

[Urban Panzer]

Good idea that, should have thought to do that at the time....:(

I gave the mounts about 500 miles or so to "bed in", but still it was awful at idle, so yesterday I threw the old ones back in...........MUCH better, back to how it was.:)

Cannot explain why or what was going on, got a returns approval from the shop where I got them, so going to send the mounts back and possibly get genuine ones, if they do the same, then I will be stuffed then lol.

[XHPBT1]

today i was so sick of vibration thats been coming out under the d2.

I have checked everything until today i found a plate next to the centre hand brake that was at first inspection it was not loose in anyway, its 2 plates with rubber in the middle no idea what it is and whats it used for! i tightened 2 bolts on the transfer case that this plate is attached to and BINGO !! no more vibrations!! i can not believe it i have been putting up with that noise for about 6months now...

let us know if anyone needs a picture....:D

[catch-22]

Yes please a picture would be great.

[XHPBT1]

16089

16090
2 bolts needs to be tightened


pictures are of the cause of vibration when accelerating just behind handbreak drum

[Urban Panzer]

Thanks for the piccies, cannot say I have ever noticed what that is, or if I even have it !!....considering the amount of time I spend under there, but will DEF have a look / check of them later today when I wake up (nightshift)

[jsbholden]

was the damper loose or was it just that the bolts needed doing up a bit more?

[XHPBT1]

well i just tightened the two bolts which took the noise away but just today i noticed the noise again...so i have to take it off and have a closer look at why its getting loose....

[worane]

Yep mine did that . They make a hell of a racket don't they?
Bye the way it is a damper.(noise & vibration) I think.

[Any]

I bought new engine mounts for my TD5
from Ricks in Nerang and then decided to get him to fit them after which the vibrations seemed as bad if not worse. After a long day he eventually found that one of them was seized and fitted a replacement, it is now better but nowhere near as smooth as my wife's d2 V8.