Wont run at operating tempriture

[Banjo_pluker]

I own a RRC 1987 model 3.5 injected- not hot wire

I have running problems.

The engine will start but as it gets to operating temp it wiil not idle or run well.

It is greatly down on power most of the time.

It is if it is running on 7 or 6 cylinders

What should I do 1st. I live a long way from a LR dealer so any parts need to be shiped to me (postage costs)

My thoughts were the temp sensor, but could this cause the problem or could it be the amplifier on the distributor.

Any sugestions are needed please

[2_door]

when did it last have a decent service ie plugs, leads, points, condensor, dizzy cap etc. sounds like it has a miss, so a good service will more than likely get it running well again

should be able to get most bits at a local spare parts place and not a LR dealership ;)

[wells]

had any luck finding the cause ?

[jamesgc]

Hi, did you check that the flap valve in the Mass Air Flow meter is not jammed in the fully open position (as mine was). Symptoms were easy starting but soon black smoke from exhaust, smelled super rich and was effectively running on full choke. Presumed cause a backfire (LPG dual fuel) had jammed the flap valve in the closed position and previous owner had jammed it fully open so ran well on LPG but a cow on petrol.
Also check that no small rubber hoses have blown off the inlet manifold, this will cause VERY difficult starting and when eventually started, seems to be running on approx 5 or 6 cylinders.

Hope this helps!
Regards James C

[Banjo_pluker]

I havn't had time to go looking for all the bits but I have a week off next week so hope to get into it them.

I have checked the air valve flap but I will check again just to make sure. I will also check that all the hoses are conected.

My father in law met some one who suggested that I need a new computer and wiring as this model had a huge problem with dry joints in the computer. This is a $1000 job for parts plus labor. I hope to speak to this guy next week, he lives around Orange NSW. This does sound like an expensive exercise, especially if it does not work.

I did take it to a mechanic when it 1st started to do it and it ran very well for about 10km. He said that it was the hose off between the air sensor and intake menafold. He was too expensive to take it back. He said that I forgot to tell him that the problem was when it got to operating temp, he may be right.

Will post how I got on

[mike 90 RR]

My father in law met some one who suggested that I need a new computer and wiring as this model had a huge problem with dry joints in the computer. This is :blink: .... a $1000 job ...for parts PLUS labour.... :blink: I hope to speak to this guy next week,


When you see this chap called "Guy" .... Tell him ... "He's Dreaming" :p :p :p

Banjo_pluker .... What is your location?? ... as it will help with answers on "places to go"

Your best purchase for your ride is a "Haynes repair Manual"

Mike

:)

[wells]

Yep , i have to agree with Mike , nothing like a good repair manual

[mike 90 RR]

Further more ....

If you want to sort it out ....

Tell us the condition & k's of the motor
Post some good shots of the motor
Do as 2_Door has suggested .... Make sure you also replace the rotor button
Buy the manual

Amplifiers generally ... yes to "works when cold ... then die when the motor gets warmed" .... Next time it does it, pop the bonnet and spray some water on it... this will cool it down & let you know if (hint that) it is at fault (don't wet the dizzy)

Ring TRS in SA for a price on a ECU .... (google TRS.com.au) ... or go to the markets section & see who's wrecking

Mike

:)

[Banjo_pluker]

Thanks so much for the help

my location is Kootingal NSW 15km north of Tamworth

Mike it says it has 286000 km but the odo does not work so I don't realy know how many.

I will give it a total service as suggested including everything.

I was hoping that the CPU was not at fault. I thought it was a bit excessive.

I will take some photos and post them.

I will also try the amplifier test, unless they are cheep and i will just replace it. Mine is located on the side of the dizzy. Is it possible to get the 1 that goes under the coil and rewire it up to it. It looks like a dizzy out job to replace the amplifier on the side.

And the book of course

[Banjo_pluker]

Further more ....



Ring TRS in SA for a price on a ECU .... (google TRS.com.au) ... or go to the markets section & see who's wrecking

Mike

:)

According to google TRS has unfortunately closed down as of 4 December

[mike 90 RR]

According to google TRS has unfortunately closed down as of 4 December
:huh:


... Click this link ... Triumph Rover Spares - The World's Largest Land Rover Dismantler (http://www.triumphroverspares.com.au/)

The amp's are cheap enough ... Buy them new // not second hand

.. try this link .... http://www.aulro.com/afvb/victoria/59437-rovacraft-victoria.html

Also check that the vacuum advance unit works



Another area of mechanics is ....

Your saying the engine is 286 tho + on the clock .... Ask the mechanic how slack is the cam chain .... If it has too much play this will cause the valves to open & close at the wrong times which = rough motor running // A fresh cam chain does wonders to your motor but is a expensive job if you have to pay mechanics fees

Best way to see it is to put a timing light on it // disconnect the vac advance // start it // rev (cycle) the motor up down slightly (750 up to 800 rpm back down to 750) and watch how much the timing jumps on the harmonic balancer

Also watch how much it jumps around at idle with the timing light




If you are "mechanic dependant" .... Either find a Good mechanic that knows his stuff ... cause you want the problem sorted properly // not guessed at

or be prepared to start learning quickly



Mike

:)

[Fish13]

Start from scratch (and cheap!) and work up the scale.

When were basics like spark plugs, dizzy cap, rotor arm, ignition leads changed? If unknown/long time ago, then start here - it's amazing the difference these can make. Try and get original parts, not pattern as some of these can prove way more trouble than spending the extra money on genuine.

At the mileage your saying, my camshaft was so worn out, that the lobes on 2 cylinders were completely rounded off, and the corresponding lifters were severely dished. Effect was that I really was running on 6 cylinders! If no history with car that suggests this has been done, then this may be the problem - if the timing chain is the same age, it'll be absolutely knackered as well. This would account for lack of power. I suggest replace service parts mentioned previously first, then see if that makes any difference and report back?

Cheers,

Fish.

[mike 90 RR]

^^^^ Exactly ^^^^

[Banjo_pluker]

Thanks guys.

I found an old distributer and leads from my old 84 RRC. This fixed the main problem. Will buy some new ones now. Must have been a lead or rotar button or dissy cap.

Still wont run when hot so do I replace the temp sensor 1st or the amplifier?

Hope to test the amplifier tomorrow by cooling it down.

Will post how I get on

[mike 90 RR]

Still wont run when hot so do I replace the temp sensor 1st or the amplifier?


Good to here that your still chipping away at it :)

Replace the Amplifier .... You may have a :confused: moment when you get it as .... the old ones are 2 pin and the new one is 3 pin ... ask "the supplier" on what to do


Mike

:)