rust protection

[trog]

can anyone give me opinions on the pros and cons of the electronic rust protection devices? i am looking at getting the steam clean and protection done soon but the operater didn,t seem to think the devices like the coupler tech were very effective on an ally skinned vehicle such as my d2. if it isn,t worth it that $ could be used for other work. thanks in advance

[Scallops]

ERP is in the same league as Hiclones, baldness cures and Toyota adds. Not worth it. Don't do what they say they do.

If you want to get rust protection done - get a coating type job done - or do it yourself with lanolin or fish oil.

[kaa45]

X2

and I'm an Electronics Engineer

Lot of crap!

[Reads90]

mmm put it this was when i was working at Land Rover in brisbane the chap for the company that makes these . Was doing a demo and trying to get us to sell these on Land Rovers.

Now i am a pom and come from where rust is really bad . Due to the fact that they salt the roads in the winter. And we don't have anything like this in the UK. Which made me suspect it in the first place. After all drivng to work in the middle of winter you will get more salt that driving up and down the beach anyway

When i asked him what it does he said i quote " it puts a negative 12v charge though the chassis "

It was at this point I said " but the battery does that anyway "
He just turned and walked away and would not talk to me

[Pedro_The_Swift]

trog brings up an interesting point,,,

has anyone heard of rust problems yet in the D2?

In OZ?

Elsewhere?
(just for you Reads90:D)


late Edit;

I will check,, but I seem to remember my owners manual
had TEN years as the corrosion warranty?

anyone else have this?

[Reads90]

trog brings up an interesting point,,,

has anyone heard of rust problems yet in the D2?

In OZ?

Elsewhere?
(just for you Reads90:D)


late Edit;

I will check,, but I seem to remember my owners manual
had TEN years as the corrosion warranty?

anyone else have this?

yeah starting to rust in the Uk but a fair bit does . Still no where near how quickly a toyota or nissan do in the UK .

You don't ask do they rust but ask how much do they rust

[Pedro_The_Swift]

I remember reading about the steel and coatings used,, it SOUNDED quite well protected.

wonder if I could search,,,

[Bundalene]

I notice that the Yamaha outboard I bought a few years back came with cathodic protection - (magnesium blocks attached to the leg of the outbard) I have heard of similar cathodic protection being used on vehicles in Europe to counter the salt corrosion due to it's use icy roads.

(putting on my engineers hat). I know this is a different application. We trialled these electronic devices on some air very large conditioning plant where we were suffering worse than normal from electrolysis in the condensors. Had the so called experts install them low and behold after the normal 12 monthly routine service there the corosion was far worse than when we used cathodic protection. Went back to sacrificial anodes ( cathodic protection ) - a much better alternative in this application.

I know this type of electrinoc equipment is used successfully on the likes the harbour tunnel reo where electrolysis would be a problem for all sorts of reasons other than dis-similar metals.

IMHO I like the lanolin type products now readily available. We use these liberally as a PM before going on holidays. Also used cavity wax when building up our vehicle. This was applied with an air venturi set-up, into all door cavities, chassis .... Seems to work.

Erich

[JDNSW]

Cathodic protection, using either separate anodes or impressed current is quite effective and both work very well provided the protective anode or impressed current electrode are in the same continuous body of electrolyte as the metal to be protected. This means that they work well in the sea - but not above the water line - as the owner of a steel boat I am well aware of this!

So unless your Landrover spends much of its life submerged, they are a waste of money. It is possible that they work to some extent in very wet conditions, but even there I would be doubtful. Galvanising is effective because the almost continuous anode (the galvanising) is always in the same body of electrolyte as the metal to be protected, plus it is a very good barrier that largely prevvents the electrolyte contacting the metal to be protected - and it forms largely insoluble salts, oxides and hydroxides.

John

[Chucaro]

Cathodic protection, using either separate anodes or impressed current is quite effective and both work very well provided the protective anode or impressed current electrode are in the same continuous body of electrolyte as the metal to be protected. This means that they work well in the sea - but not above the water line - as the owner of a steel boat I am well aware of this!

So unless your Landrover spends much of its life submerged, they are a waste of money. It is possible that they work to some extent in very wet conditions, but even there I would be doubtful. Galvanising is effective because the almost continuous anode (the galvanising) is always in the same body of electrolyte as the metal to be protected, plus it is a very good barrier that largely prevvents the electrolyte contacting the metal to be protected - and it forms largely insoluble salts, oxides and hydroxides.

John

I agree 100%

[Scouse]

has anyone heard of rust problems yet in the D2?

In OZ?


I will check,, but I seem to remember my owners manual
had TEN years as the corrosion warranty?

Yes, I've seen rust appearing around the skylights on a couple of cars. Door frames too (like D1s & RRCs).

They have a 6yr perforation warranty but you need to make sure ALL the annual inspections are done. Also, the emphasis is on perforation too - no hole & it might not be covered.

[willem]

can anyone give me opinions on the pros and cons of the electronic rust protection devices? i am looking at getting the steam clean and protection done soon but the operater didn,t seem to think the devices like the coupler tech were very effective on an ally skinned vehicle such as my d2. if it isn,t worth it that $ could be used for other work. thanks in advance

A mate of mine used it on his old Pajero and he is pretty happy with it. I've seen the car any number of times and it does not have a rust problem at all.

Willem

[solmanic]

I will check,, but I seem to remember my owners manual had TEN years as the corrosion warranty?

anyone else have this?

Yes, but it's a pretty specific wording. Something like a 10 year corrosion "perforation" warranty. So the rust has to go right through the piece of metal. I have found Land Rover to be pretty good with this though as they replaced the rear passengers door on my previous Td5 Defender without much debate. And that wasn't fully "perforated", just had the usual telltale bubbling of the paint at the bottom of the door where the steel frame & alloy skin had reacted. But you also MUST make sure they do the bodywork inspections each year and stamp the service book. Non-dealer service centres (eg. MR) are unable to do the inspection and if you take your vehicle to a dealer service centre for an inspection alone they charge you.


...Galvanising is effective because the almost continuous anode (the galvanising) is always in the same body of electrolyte as the metal to be protected, plus it is a very good barrier that largely prevvents the electrolyte contacting the metal to be protected - and it forms largely insoluble salts, oxides and hydroxides.

Now there's something that has always puzzled me, why the F--- don't Land Rover just galvanise their chassis? I had an XJ Jeep Cherokee and the entire monocoque body shell was factory galvanised (and also had a 10 year corrosion warranty to boot). Is it just purely for cost reasons?