Series 2A advice

[atunstall]

I'm new to this forum and to Land Rovers, but was hoping that someone could give me a bit of advice on a few problems I'm having trying to get a 1970 Series 2A SWB back on the road. I bought it off a bloke who'd had it parked in his field for a few years and he told me that it wouldn't start (or stop).

Since I bought it, I've got it started (reconditioned starter motor and solenoid switch) and have renewed all seals in the brake cylinders and master cylinder and had the brake drums machined.

The first problem is that after bleeding the brakes a couple of times, there is still a lot of sponginess in the system, making the brakes ineffective. As my property is on a hill, this is not good! I've tried clamping the two front pipes and the rear pipe and the brake pedal was solid. After taking off the rear clamp, it was spongy again, but no sign of bubbles in the fluid when bleeding the rear brakes. Any ideas or suggestions would be welcome.

The second problem might be more expensive! With the car jacked up on both axles and low range 4WD engaged, the front driver wheel seems to rotate at about twice the speed of the rear wheels and the front passenger wheel doesn't rotate at all. I've checked the freewheeling hubs and they seem to be engaging OK. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance,

Andrew

[DeeJay]

I'd say the brake hoses need replacing, they can go soft over a fair time. They are probably bulging.
Don't worry about the wheel speeds, that will be your fron passenger brake binding which sends the revs to the opposite side via differential action. From what you describe your diffs are working.

[Leo109]

I agree new hoses may help. I had bulk problems getting a good 'pedal' in my SIII 109 a few years ago but this finally worked: Once you're sure the system has been fully flushed with clean fluid and there's no chance of pushing gunk back into the master cylinder, try a reverse bleed.

I got a big (60 or 80 ml) plastic syringe from a vet surgery. Adapt it's outlet to the bleed nipple with various bits of tubing. Fill it with clean fluid, attached it to the bleed nipple, loosen the nipple and push fluid back up the lines. For the longer rear lines, you may need two or more syringes-full to push any air right back into the master cylinder reservoir. It is easier if you have an observer to tell if any air bubbles are seen at the reservoir and when they stop.

This gave 'Leo' his best ever brake feel.
Ian

[Leo109]

Hi Andrew,

Any progress? On this forum, you're generally expected to give feedback.

Especially if the advice offered didn't work...

Ian

[lro11]

I found that if you machine the drums too far oversize you will have trouble getting a hard pedal you could also consider a pressure bleed.

[stage1slave]

I found that if you machine the drums too far oversize you will have trouble getting a hard pedal.

We had this problem on the stage1 recently. Were told that you shoudn't machine L/R drums without getting oversized shoes made to fit by a brake mob.
Seemed too much hassle, so I just bought new drums, so that in future, we could just fit standard shoes. Stops very well now.
cheers
Evelyn

[atunstall]

We had this problem on the stage1 recently. Were told that you shoudn't machine L/R drums without getting oversized shoes made to fit by a brake mob.
Seemed too much hassle, so I just bought new drums, so that in future, we could just fit standard shoes. Stops very well now.
cheers
Evelyn

Thanks Evelyn - I'll check the diameter of the drums against the manual. I took them to a brake and clutch place, but they may have taken off too much...

[atunstall]

I agree new hoses may help. I had bulk problems getting a good 'pedal' in my SIII 109 a few years ago but this finally worked: Once you're sure the system has been fully flushed with clean fluid and there's no chance of pushing gunk back into the master cylinder, try a reverse bleed.

I got a big (60 or 80 ml) plastic syringe from a vet surgery. Adapt it's outlet to the bleed nipple with various bits of tubing. Fill it with clean fluid, attached it to the bleed nipple, loosen the nipple and push fluid back up the lines. For the longer rear lines, you may need two or more syringes-full to push any air right back into the master cylinder reservoir. It is easier if you have an observer to tell if any air bubbles are seen at the reservoir and when they stop.

This gave 'Leo' his best ever brake feel.
Ian

Thanks for the advice Ian - I replaced one of the front hoses which was quite damaged, but the other one and the rear ones might be causing the problem. I'll try replacing these...

[atunstall]

I'd say the brake hoses need replacing, they can go soft over a fair time. They are probably bulging.
Don't worry about the wheel speeds, that will be your fron passenger brake binding which sends the revs to the opposite side via differential action. From what you describe your diffs are working.

Thanks DeeJay - will try replacing the hoses and then the reverse pressure bleed. I'm glad to hear that the diff is probably working OK.

[Jeff]

I found with my 2As that you had to remove the drums and shoes and clamp the wheel cylinders in with a G clamp to squeeze the air out of them, then bleed the lines. The Brits in their wisdom put the bleed nipple at the bottom and air can be trapped in the cylinders.

Jeff

:rocket:

[JDNSW]

I found with my 2As that you had to remove the drums and shoes and clamp the wheel cylinders in with a G clamp to squeeze the air out of them, then bleed the lines. The Brits in their wisdom put the bleed nipple at the bottom and air can be trapped in the cylinders.

Jeff

:rocket:

You can often achieve the same result just by backing the adjusters right off, which will fully compress the cylinders. And if reverse bleeding the air will be carried back up the pipes to the M/C and reservoir.

John