ARB DIFF LOCK

[101 Ron]

Conversion gears are now advailible from British 4WD imports so a series 3 Salisbury ARB air locker can be fitted front or rear on a 101 landrover.
The cost is 410 dollars plus the cost of the locker which you purchase from any ARB agent.
See Anthony Johnson.
There is only a limited number advailible currently.
The conversion gears are fitted in place of the ARB centre gears to allow fitting the unit on to the much larger 101 axles.

[101RRS]

Ron,

We now expect a tutorial from you on how to put these and the diff lock into a front Salisbury;).

Garry

[101 Ron]

I got the gears, but finding the money (1200 dollars) for the air locker is a different story.
I will do pics as I have never fitted a air locker before and the front diff will be alot of work as the CVs will have to come out.
I have new brakes and seals ready for the front end.
Its the money problem again.
I do have a very good air set up on my 101 and even the switch on the dash board marked diff lock, so that side of things should be easy.
I expect the conversion gears to sell out quickly , so now is the time to get a locker for a 101.
It is unlikely that any more gears will be made.

[isuzurover]

I have heard that Jacmac can also broach the ARB side gears ???

As for the locker, I would buy a Dana 60 ARB rather than a Salisbury ARB. I have been told by ARB that the internals are stronger. HOWEVER, this may mean that the Sals ARB side gears will not fit...

For those who don't know, the Salisbury 8HA was basically a licenced copy of the US Dana 60. The only difference with the diff centres is the salisbury was metricised. All this means as far as fitting a D60 ARB to a salisbury, is that you need to change the carrier bearings.

If anyone is interested I have the PN's somewhere. (courtesy of Keith from Rovertracks).

As an aside, there are a whole lot of ratio options:
4.56, 4.7(LR), 4.88, 5.13, 5.57(LR101), 6.17, 7.17

ANOTHER (possibly better) option would be just to whack in a 35-spline D60 ARB front and rear, and get custom halfshafts/axles made. i.e. the FC101 has 1.47" diameter, 21-spline axles, whereas the larger D60 axles are 1.5" 35 spline. So you would end up with a significant axle upgrade for only a few more $$$.

[101RRS]

ANOTHER (possibly better) option would be just to whack in a 35-spline D60 ARB front and rear, and get custom halfshafts/axles made. i.e. the FC101 has 1.47" diameter, 21-spline axles, whereas the larger D60 axles are 1.5" 35 spline. So you would end up with a significant axle upgrade for only a few more $$$.

Why bother going to all that hassle and considerable $$$$$ when the standard setup is better than good enough - as Ron has said the 101 has the axle setup that other landies should have had.

In my discussions with Keith, I understood that the dyna side gears will fit a salsbury and because the same basic side gears are made to a range of dyna axles they would be plenty strong enough when broached - you would buy the side gears to take the smallest dyna axle and then take it out to 101 axle size. Again when the cost of the dyna side gears and the modifications are taken into account the cost is quite high.

As I understand it these ARB type side gears are not the standard ARB sides gears that are broached which may have resulted in weak gears - these are a batch of side gears that have been made from scratch.

Garry

[isuzurover]

Why bother going to all that hassle and considerable $$$$$ when the standard setup is better than good enough - as Ron has said the 101 has the axle setup that other landies should have had.

In my discussions with Keith, I understood that the dyna side gears will fit a salsbury and because the same basic side gears are made to a range of dyna axles they would be plenty strong enough when broached - you would buy the side gears to take the smallest dyna axle and then take it out to 101 axle size. Again when the cost of the dyna side gears and the modifications are taken into account the cost is quite high.

As I understand it these ARB type side gears are not the standard ARB sides gears that are broached which may have resulted in weak gears - these are a batch of side gears that have been made from scratch.

Garry

What the hell is a dyna??? Some kind of toyota isn't it??? ;)

A DANA 60 ARB costs about the same as a salisbury ARB. Dana 60 ARBs come in 16, 30 and 35 spline variants off-the-shelf.

Ron seems to have a source for custom gears.

The other option, as you and I suggested, is to get the ARB side gears broached. So yes, buy a 16 or 30 spline Dana 60 ARB and get it broached.

You say the 101 setup is as strong as you could possibly want??? There are still people who have broken 101 axles, etc...

MY point is, that you need to spend $XXX on an ARB locker, then you either spend:
$410 on the side gears that Ron mentioned OR
A similar amount getting the side gears broached.
OR a slightly higher amount for custom axles that are STRONGER.

In the rear, there may be a 35-spline axle available in the US that will almost swap straight in with a redrilled drive flange. The front will be a custom setup, but there are plenty of suppliers in the US who have 35 spline blanks, and would just need to spline one end to 21-spline.

A locker puts a lot more stress on axles. While your current axles may be more than strong enough at the moment, if you can spend an extra couple of hundred to get a much stronger setup, why not???

[101 Ron]

Breaking a 101 diff or axle is rare.
I heard of a 101 axle breaking when a fellow over seas was hard off roading and running 2o inch wheels ( most likely Unimog rubber)
I very seriously looked at getting standard series three salisbury side gears (ARB) spark erroded to suit the 101 at a cost of 200 dollars each.
The spark erroded gears will not be as strong as gears made from stratch to do the job.
The money on the correct side gears made to suit is good for me.
A series three salisbury (rear) ARB diff locker must be used as the carrier for the crown wheel has the correct off set to suit the 5.57 to one ratio of the 101 crown wheel and pinion salisbury diff.
The splines on a 101 axle are 22 spline and of a odd size.
My personal measurements of OD of a 101 axle splines are 36.20mm or 1.428 thou with the bottom spline radius diameter being 1.316 thou
Detroit lockers are advailable for the rear of a 101.
The problem is the front and the 101 has very heavy duty CVs of good design and it is unwise to stuff around around a change these as they work well and so why the ARB conversion gears.
About ten Mac Mamara special made front lockers were made years ago and I understand they worked well with the existing drive train of the 101.
Some owners over seas have had standard series three ARB side gears spark erroded and used with no bad effects.

[101 Ron]

I have been running a Detroit Locker in the rear of my 101 for more than two years now .
The worse conditions you can put a detroit though off road wise is the shock loading of loose rock steps, and I have done this a few times.
I have had no problems so far.
I would be very careful about doing that sort of work with the 101 at its full load of 1.5 tonnes......but that is common sense .
I do like the idea if I do by chance break some thing a Dana stronger option is workable and something I have not though about before.
But would it be workable on the front diff and the 101 CVs

[isuzurover]

Ron, the Dana 60/Sals diff has 2 flange positions. 4.56:1 and Numerically higher (the one you need for the 101) and 4.3:1 and numerically lower.

Just as you need to use a SIII Sals ARB for a 101, you would need a 4.56 and higher D60 ARB.

Whether the EDM'd side gears would be weaker or not depends on whether they are through hardened or not.

The D60 ARB is stronger than the (old type) Series III/110 ARB, however I believe there will be a new (upgraded) version released soon - if it isn't already available.

If you fitted a 35-spline D60 ARB to the front, there is no reason you can't retain the 101 CVs, you would just need custom inner halfshafts. However, the new 300m 80-series or D60 longfield CVs would likely be much stronger and could probably be fitted without too much trouble.

But since you already have the side gears...

[101 Ron]

isuzu rover
thanks for information.
If you ever see a 101 landy take a long look at the Cvs they are like no other in the landrover family for size and were the ones choosen for portal conversions of standard landrovers and are much wanted by the racing crowd over seas.

[isuzurover]

If you ever see a 101 landy take a long look at the Cvs they are like no other in the landrover family for size

Thanks Ron, I am quite familier with 101 CVs.

I know people who have broken them too...

The Longfield D60 CVs put them to shame (scroll down near the bottom):
Longfield Super Axles (http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/04/1242.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/04/1243.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/04/1244.jpg

[isuzurover]

They look nicely finished.

[101RRS]

Got mine today:)

[101 Ron]

I am waiting to see if I get Mr crudds vote maker money.
If I do get it ,I will spend it on a Aussie company like ARB

[101RRS]

I think the lockers are still cheaper if bought in the US and shipped back - but not by much.

Garry

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/142.jpg

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/140.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/141.jpg

[101RRS]

Ron,

I thought you were broke :D.

So put the stuff in - so you can tell us how to do it.

I have $300 in ARB gift vouchers that are supposed to be for buying some recovery gear but as most stuff is cheaper to buy elsewhere, I might put the vouchers towards a locker.

I will be interested to see how well your onboard air works the locker as my local ARB man says you must have the ARB compressor (of course he would) and that onboard air will not work but he cannot explain why - I can see no reason why air pressure from a tank at the correct pressure will not work.

Garry

[101 Ron]

First up the missus is not real happy at present as she wanted the money spent on a splash back in the kichen and I am paying dearly in more ways than one.
The next problem is my 101 will not fit in my nice warm garrage and so I will have to do it in the cold car port, time is currently short too.
The quick look at the ARB book which came with the locker shows a special carrier bearing is used on one side of the new carrier(supplied) and so all gear and bearing settings will have too be carefully checked and may be reset.
One carrier bearing cap gets a hole drilled though it .
The book states the locker must work with air pressures between 85 to 105 psi.
My current system switches automatically between 60 to 100 psi.(a converted engine driven ex air conditioning compressor)
I have been wanting to run my current system at 100 to 150 psi so the system will push air though the tyre valves quicker when pumping up tyre.
I think currently my present system is good enough and my air tank is more than large enough.
In the long term I will fit a 100 to 150 psi pressure switch and then use a small air pressure regulator just on the air supply line to the locker set at 100 psi.
It appears to be alot of work to pull apart the front CVs to get the axles out and then pull the diff out and then set up the locker and then reassemble.
I have sitting in the local 4WD store waiting for me to pay it off a ARB salisbury /dana diff cover plate.
I have found when climbing rock shelfs etc, the tin foil standard forward facing cover plate gets damaged.(most rovers dont get this problem as the salisbury is only used on the rear.)

[101 Ron]

the above pics I have new brake shoes, Cv joint seals, hub oil seals, hub caps,wheel bearing lock tabs, wheel cylinders and the locker .
I think every thing is covered.
I am a motor mechanic by trade and have a fairly well equipt garage at home .
I have never fitted a ARB locker before, or pulled apart the CVs of a 101 before.
This will be new for me to do.
This is much harder than the Detroit Locker I fitted to the rear of the 101.
which only took a few hours to do.
I think the first step will be to check to see if the 101 conversion gears fit the axle splines and then see if the conversion gears fit correctly in to the ARB locker( most of which can be done in my warm garage in night time hours).
The ARB locker kit has every thing I need to do this.
The only thing I see would be missing for most people is the dash board switches and air supply( I have this all currently fitted )
I will Keep you posted
Ron

[101RRS]

Ron,

You are lucky that you even have a carport - working on my 101 is done outside out in the weather on a sloping front drive. Plus the weather is a whole lot better in Nowra than it is in Canberra - particularly in Autumn, Winter and Spring.

I looking to see how well you go with the ARB locker because as you said it will be a bit more complex than the rear locker.

My 101 is coming along - LPG has been tested and all back in - I had to buy a new clutch master cylinder yesterday as mine has started leaking - so I will put that in today if the weather holds up - it is really cold and windy.

Just sorting the electrics now - my main worry is that I have no indication of oil pressure - the gauge is not working, nor is the dash light - not happy driving without some indication - the dash is coming out this weekend so I hope to fix it.

After that it is put the heater back in - as bought it was in the air tunnel acting as a supplementary cooling radiator - then adjust the steering and then remove the tin roof and put on the canvas.

The problem I have is that everyone I know thinks I have time to do things for them. When I say I need to work on my truck - the usual response is I can do that anytime:mad:. I have to go to my Mum's next week to paint her house:o.

So should be on the road - even if only with a drive permit by the end of June. All systems should be go.

Garry

[101 Ron]

Nothing worse than a sloping drive way and working under a vehicle.
The creeper board only works one way and watching your aerosol cans ,sockets and screw drivers roll away down the the street causing a few well choosen words......:p:p:p:p:p while hitting your head on the chassis.
Might be a good thing to vid and post on you tube......:angel::angel:

[101RRS]

Put the new clutch master cylinder in - what a PITA - and just have to bleed it tomorrow.

Also took the front winch fitting off - was surprised to see how small the bolts are that hold on the front Xmember/bumper.

The winch area is OK as it doesn't actually take the weight of the 101 but I would be concerned when the winch cable doubles back to the nato hitch. When I get this thing back on the road I will put on the list of nice things to do later - reinforce the front area for recoveries.

Car ramps make everything nice and level but is a bit hard to climb up and down. It will go on jack stands or the jack but I need to be careful.

Garry

[101 Ron]

Testing to see if conversion gears are correct size and spline pattern by trying it on the drive axle whisle axle is still fitted to vehicle.
It was found to be a tap on fit with a.small copper hammer.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/90.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/91.jpg

[101 Ron]

The locker as supplied has its crown wheel side cover loose and held together with cable ties as in service the crown wheel bolts hold the side cover on.
Cut cable ties and the series three side gear will be accessed when the cover is tapped off gently with a copper hammer.
dont loose the shim behind the side gearside gear and refit together with the 101 side gear as found.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/87.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/88.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/89.jpg
Install new cable ties to hold the whole thing back together again.
Note insulation tape has been wrapped around the carrier bearing and seal journals to protect them whisle working on the locker.

[101 Ron]

When ever removing anything from the locker or diff centre punch mark everything so you know how it exactly goes back together and what way around.
This photo shows the difference in size in the centres of the series side gear and the 101 side gear.
Note the side gear shim still on the series three side gear and yet to be fitted to the 101 side gear.( first two pics)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/81.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/82.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/83.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/84.jpg
Dont forget to wash off the anti rust coating from the 101 side gears and give them a bit of lube before they go in.

[101 Ron]

Turn the locker up the other way and remove the side cover plate.
Note the 8mm long series double hex socket which must be used.
The socket will be at maximum effort to remove the bolts which are a compact double hex design.
To stop stripping of the bolt and socket , I ground the socket down a bit lenght wise so it was working on new unworn part of the socket.
The bolts have a special locking washer arrangement with loctited threads.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/80.jpg

[101 Ron]

Side cover including the air piston removed showing the series three side gear and plastic cage set up which works the dog clutch on the other side of the locker.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/78.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/79.jpg
The series side gear needs to be carefully worked past the pastic cage as the side gear is very slightly larger OD.
Fit in 101 side gear the same way and remember the the shim behind it.

[101 Ron]

Refit side cover and air piston adding new loctite to threads.
Tighten the special bolts untill the the limit of the the drive you can get on the special bolts with the socket without slipping.
bolts must be done evenly.
The locker is now converted for use on a 101 landrover.
The next stage is to put my 101 off the road which I am not quite ready to do yet.
The next pics show a rough diff housing spreader I made when fitting the Detroit locker in the rear diff.
A hydraulic jack goes in the top of the frame to spread it apart and the lugs engage on the casting on the diff housing.
The Detroit install was simple and used the existing carrier and bearings etc so it did the job for that.
The ARB is alot of work and requires the locker to be removed and refitted many times to check things.
A better one will needed to be made before I go any further.
The conversion side gears are of the best size and quality and I cannot say where they were made.
I expect no problems with fitting them with the same shims as the series three side gears.
That cannot be checked untill the crown wheel is bolted onto the locker.

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/76.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/77.jpg

[101 Ron]

After studying what is required to fit the locker in a 101 ,I wonder if to go ahead with the rest of this thread.
Setting up a diff is a specialised job and takes knowlege and experience.
The fact is many motor mechanics cannot set up diffs correctly and I now can see why many people have trouble with leaking air lockers .
One slight stuff up and you will get problems.
diff set ups is for the people who have the correct experience and back ground.
If you dont meet these requirements , go and get the diff set up by a diif specialist mechanic.
Fitting of a Detroit locker is easy to what is comming in the next steps.
You must also have the correct gear.
I am not perfect either...I have never fitted a ARB air locker before.....so I am open to revision.
Be warned!!!!!!!

[101RRS]

So Ron are you going to give it a go? and put it up as a tutorial for the rest of us too follow?

Good work so far :D

Garry

[101 Ron]

I am going to do it.
I am just saying its not a backyard job for part time mechanics.:wasntme:
I have my defender running again so I might drop the diff centre tomorrow or aleast get the brakes apart.

[DODGE]

G day ron

Good to see you finally were able to purchase all the bits. great pics as usual hope it all goes well.

cheers gaz:D

[101 Ron]

Front axle sitting on stands and wheels removed.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/27.jpg
Cir clip to be removed with washer on end of drive shaft

[101 Ron]

Drive flange removed and brake drum.
Backing plate very oily and brakes well worn.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/26.jpg

[101 Ron]

Wheel bearing nut removal tool .....P/N ...china 24 inch
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/25.jpg

[101 Ron]

The preivous owner of my 101 must have liked the wheel bearings on the loose side as I have had to tighten them up and I have been getting leaking hub oil seals like this on the other hubs.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/914.jpg

[101 Ron]

Diff cover plate off.
The steering gear must come off to drop out the diff centre
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/24.jpg
Note the colour of the oil.........one too many creek crossings with a wet ignition system.
Note the bracket for the steering damper has to be removed so the diff spreader tool can be fitted to the diff housing.

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/23.jpg
The rod ends have to come off.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/636.jpg

[101 Ron]

The drag link is swung around and cable tied to the spring to hold it out the way
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/22.jpg

[101 Ron]

Plenty of room now.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/21.jpg

[101 Ron]

CV joint seals removed.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/638.jpg
Note the pitting of the CV joint ball caused by gravel roads(most likely South Aust army service)

[101 Ron]

Top and bottom two bolts for CV joint bearing pins removed and brake pipe disconnected.
The whole thing is just sitting there.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/639.jpg

[101 Ron]

The cv is now exposed and now can be removed.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/640.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/641.jpg
Note the seal that will need to come out and be replaced.
This seal separates the CV oil from the diff oil.

[101 Ron]

The next thing needed is a dial guage indicator.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/02/1209.jpg

[101 Ron]

Set up the magnetic base of the indicator on the diff housing to hold it in place so you can read the backlash between the crown wheel and pinion.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/19.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/02/1211.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/02/1210.jpg

[101 Ron]

Rock the crown wheel backwards and forwards just a little bit and measure the play between the gears.
In this case the backlash is 4 to 5 thousands of a inch.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/18.jpg
The next step is to bearing blue the ring gear and check how the diff gearmesh has been going.
The idea being that when the locker is fitted we try to achieve 4 to 5 thou backlash and the same gearmesh pattern.
I will have to get some bearing blue from work .

[101 Ron]

The parts taken off the vehicle are laid out is so I know which side of the vehicle they came .
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/17.jpg

[101 Ron]

This pic shows the gear contact pattern with bearing blue.
Every thing looks fine.
Factory backlash specs are 6 to 11 thou and mine are 5 thou,,,,good enough.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1566.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1567.jpg

[101 Ron]

Bearing caps centre popped marked and bolts evenly removed and then caps removed.
Found a old pillow and rag to drop the diff centre on.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1565.jpg

[101 Ron]

My home made diff housing spreader will not fit as the drivers side spring is in the way.
The proffessional spreaders will not fit too.
I am going to have make some thing up to suit or drop the spring off.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1563.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1564.jpg

[101 Ron]

Purchased today a small air pressure reg for 27 dollars which should work the air locker OK.
Purchased new axle tube seals too.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1562.jpg

[101RRS]

Good work Ron - thanks for the pics - it will be really helpful for us who will be doing the same in due course.

Cheers

Garry

[isuzurover]

Ron, Great pics and writeup, however you are the first person I have seen who actually bothers with a spreader.

I (and many others) just use a couple of tyre levers or a small crowbar to remove (only gentle pressure is usually needed), and a leather/plastic hammer to refit.

[101 Ron]

The reason I am worrying about the spreader is the fact the ARB locker may have to go in and out of the diff a few times to check the settings for the bearings and crown wheel.
One of the bearing caps have to be measured for drilling with the locker in place and then removed.....etc.

[101 Ron]

I found very little scrap steel at work today.
I did find plenty of wire and gas in the MIG.
Found a large piece of brooker rod and nuts to suit.
So I reworked my original diff spreader.
I moved the pin for the drivers side of the diff spreader so it clears the spring.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1438.jpg
I dont have to use a old jack to work the spreader, the brooker rod and nuts work OK
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1439.jpg

[101 Ron]

Out she comes
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1437.jpg

[101 Ron]

I turned up on the lathe a alloy disc to help remove and refit the diff centre bearings.
A two legged puller is supposed to be used to remove the bearings.
I found the cut away in the original diff centre to allow the use of a two legged puller would not fit any two legged pullers I had.
So I used a bearing spreader and hydraulic puller.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1435.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1436.jpg

[101 Ron]

The problem is the hydraulic puller with spreader will not pull from underneath the bearing , but on the cage.
I will purchase one new bearing, as it is not worth the risk of refitting the old bearing now.
The bearings were in very good condition.
The ARB locker has much bigger and deeper cast in recesses for a two legged puller and should not be a problem.
The shims behind the bearings must not be mixed up and noted which side they came from.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1432.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1433.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1434.jpg

[101 Ron]

Undo bolts for ring gear evenly......a rattle gun makes it easy....but you have to be careful.
the original centre and the locker side by side.
The original diff centre looks alot stronger.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1430.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1431.jpg

[101 Ron]

The next step is to measure the shim pack which came from the ring gear side bearing.
to do that I need one of these.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1405.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1406.jpg
At the end of the day it worked out to be 64 thou.

[101 Ron]

The next thing to be done is the old diff centre to be measured from the flange where the ring gear bolts on, to the shoulder which the bearing rested on.
These measurements are needed to worked out to get the correct shim pack for the new locker diff centre.
The ARB instruction book states it must be done accurately , but is not help full on how.
I ended up bolting the ring gear back on as the back of the ring is bigger than the flange it bolts on to and therefore gives me some thing to measure from .
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1403.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1404.jpg

[101 Ron]

Just using a straight edge I cannot get accurate readings.
The idea I have come up with is to find a piece of flat steel plate with a hole in it a little bit larger than the end of the diff centre where the bearing presses on and then measure between the two surfaces of the back of the ring gear and the steel plate resting on the shoulder of where the bearing normally sits.
If I get this correct and accurate on both the old diff centre and the locker centre , it will save alot of possible work reshimming later on to get correct ring gear backlash.
Out of time today
I will try again tomorrow.

[101RRS]

Ron,

I thought this was going to be easy - I am glad you are doing the first one and not me.

How much are you going to charge to do all of the 101s in AULRO:).

Garry

[101 Ron]

I am flat out just trying to sort out my problems, let alone everyone elses.
Doing this thread is giving me the drive to do a bit every day after work .
When your fixing everyone vehicles for a living , you go home and usually do not want to work on your own.

[101 Ron]

This is the plate I made today.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1376.jpg
It fits on like this
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1377.jpg
Using the old bearing which I have now reduced to the inner cone holds it into place, so I can measure like this.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1378.jpg

[101 Ron]

I took average measurements.
I then removed the ring gear and my measuring plate from the old diff centre.
I then tried to warm the ring gear in the oven at home only to find the missus was not too happy with the idea.
So I heated the ring gear in the Weber
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1373.jpg
Then the ring gear was fitted to the locker and the measuring plate and bearing cone to hold it in place.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1374.jpg
Then I measured the same thing on the locker( distance from ring gear flange to bearing shoulder.)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1375.jpg

[101 Ron]

The shim pack that came out was 64 thou.
The distance from the ring gear to bearing shoulder on the diff was 1.435 thou
The distance from the ring gear to the bearing shoulder of the locker is 1.430 thou
therefore the shim pack needs to be increased by 5 thou from 64 thou to 69 thou.........to keep the ring backlash to specs when refitted.( shims from the diff centre bearing which came from the other side will be used to make up the difference.)
A few problems.
The measurements on the locker were very accurate, as was the measurement of the shims.
The bearing shoulder on the diff centre for the bearing was rounded small and it was hard to get a good measurement......I could be out by 6 thou.
A new bearing will be fitted and that will affect things too.
The next jobs will be to loctite and torque the ring gear correctly and fit both bearings for a trial fitting in the housing and see how good I am with my home work.

[101 Ron]

I picked up my heavy duty diff cover today.
(do red covers make 101 landys go better ? )
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/789.jpg

[101RRS]

You only bought it because it was red :D

[101 Ron]

Ring gear is now correctly fitted to locker at 100 ftbs torque on bolts and loctite.
Two new bearings fitted , one purchased by myself and one supplied by ARB in the kit.
The cone on the ARB bearing is the same as the one that came out, but the cup supplied is narrower than the landrover factory item.
I found a piece of pipe the correct size to push on the bearing cones.
The ARB book recommends a press is needed, but I found they tapped on without too much trouble using my piece of pipe.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1320.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1321.jpg

[101 Ron]

this pic is with the plate with the air supply fitted and it also encloses the O rings when fitted.
Everything is ready to try in the diff housing .
I will try that tomorrow in the day light
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1319.jpg

[101 Ron]

The locker is fitted in the diff housing with one bearing cap fitted ( finger tight bollts) and the locker pushed hard over to the crown wheel side bearing ,
crown wheel backlash checked.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1289.jpg

[101 Ron]

Feeler guage is checking the gap between the end of the locker and the housing so bearing preload can be worked out.
The torque on the crown wheel bolts is 100ft lbs as is the cap bolts for the centre bearings.
The preload for the centre bearings is 5 thou.
So what ever you find in gap with the feeler guage, add 5 thou for the shim pack for the non crown wheel side.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1288.jpg

[101 Ron]

I got my crownwheel backlash correct first go thanks to the extra earlier measuring efforts.
Next measure from the edge of the housing to the centre of the copper pipe for the locker and then triple check your work.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1287.jpg

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1283.jpg
Remove the locker and then fit the non crown whell side bearing cap and centre pop a mark on it the same as the previous measurement for the copper pipe.
Triple check your measurements.




https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1284.jpg



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1285.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1286.jpg

[101 Ron]

For interest sake the above measurement was 13mm .
The next step is to drill a 1/4 hole through the bearing cap at the centre popped and measured triple checked point.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1280.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1281.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1282.jpg
Chamfer the hole.

[101 Ron]

The next step is to drill and tap the air supply hole through the diff housing.
I purchased a 1/4 gas tapered thread tap.
I found a perfect spot on top,of the diff housing for the hole between the the two cast in ridges at the top of the diff .
A 7/16 hole is drilled and then tapped.
I had to use a 90 degree angle drill to do this as there was
little clearence between the top of the diff housing and the engine oil cooler hoses.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1276.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1277.jpg
I rigged up part of the card board box the locker came in to catch the iron chips.https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1278.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1279.jpg

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1274.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1275.jpg

[101 Ron]

The locker is refitted with both caps and further checks done and to see if the hole in the cap was drilled in the right spot.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1272.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1273.jpg
The O rings have not been fitted .
the caps are lightly torqued and bashlash rechecked with dial guage and the preload checked by trying to lever the locker side to side with a bar and re checking with feeler guages etc.

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1270.jpg
Final checks with 5 thou centre bearing preload .
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1271.jpg

[101 Ron]

The locker is removed and the O rings carefully fitted and lubed.
The O rings are really Viton quad rings.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1269.jpg

[101 Ron]

The locker is finally place back in and the housing spreader is released for the last time.
the bearing caps are torque to 100 ft lbs.
the crown wheel is bearing blued to check if the mesh is the same as it was as it came out in the first place.
Everything is checked again.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1267.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1268.jpg

[101 Ron]

The copper air supply pipe is bent by hand to clear everything and to avoid any movement by oil washing against it or it rubbing slightly against the diff cover plate.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1260.jpg
A mini pipe cutter is used to cut the excess pipe to avoid any filings falling inside the pipe.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1261.jpg

[101 Ron]

The air supply fittings are screwed in the the diff housing and air line fitted.
the heavy duty diff cover is fitted.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1258.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1259.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/788.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/02/1563.jpg

[101 Ron]

New axle tube oil seals fitted and the drive axles with CVs fitted.
The axles were a neat knock in fit in to the conversion side gears inside the locker.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/634.jpg
I cleaned up the pitted CV joint balls abit with this.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1257.jpg

[101 Ron]

Cv housings refitted as per the 101 workshop book and this is the current state of affairs
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/635.jpg
The locker was checked for operation by using a air nozzle to pressurise the locker hose and then turn the axles by hand.
It works !

[101 Ron]

The plan is now to get the vehicle rolling again soom as possible.
Brakes to be sorted next and wheels fitted.
I will worry about the air valve and electrics to the locker after as I need the thing running to do some useful work around the farm.
The defender 130 I have got will not cut the mustard against the 101.

[101 Ron]

the axle tube seal common P/Ns are....PBR...TC12107...5032
The CVs ball seals are easy to replace.The stering goes in next.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1238.jpg
The bracket for the steering damper had to be trimed a bit to clear the new heavt duty diff cover.

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1236.jpg
The diff cover is now black as I think red is too racey for my 101
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1237.jpg

[101 Ron]

New wheel cylinders fitted and backing plates painted.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1234.jpg
The boots on the tie rod end were replaced with items purchased from the local auto store.
KOK brand..P/N...TE3.......16mmx34mm or KOK brand ..TE4..14mmx34mm.
Both fit
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1235.jpg

[101RRS]

Go on Ron - be a :twisted: and take the black paint back to red paint:cool:.

You have done a great job and also a great job recording your progress.

Cheers

Garry

[101 Ron]

The brake shoes are on with hubs and wheel bearings.
This is as far as I got today.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/913.jpg
The air tank is in the front of the fan tunnel and so the best place to place the mini air reg and ARB three way soleniod valve would be on the air tank or on the fan tunnel sides.
The wheel bearings were packed with grease as it will take some time for the oil to get though from the CV.
New lock tabs fitted.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1225.jpg

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1162.jpg
I wrapped the nylon air tube with electrical nylon wrap to protect it.
Only one cable tie is used on the air supply line to the engine oil cooler pipe as the air tank is not very far away.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1163.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1164.jpg

[101 Ron]

This is the air tank.
It is of about 12 litre capacity.
The engine oil cooler can be seen in back ground and the nylon wrapped air supply pipe to the diff is coming up over the air tank and though the pic.
This air tank has a metal handle on it as it was originally a 12 volt portable super cheap purchased thing.
It came with air pressure switch , non return valve, safety valve and drain tap etc for a good price and bolted in perfectly.
The guage is easly seen through the front grill and the air out let to pump up tyres can be seen.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/1161.jpg

[101 Ron]

this is the same thing but with the air pressure regulator fitted and ARB three way electric valve.
A brass Tee piece was used and the reg was screwed onto that.
The reg has been set to 95 psi
The reg is really not needed at this stage, but later I want to screw the tank pressure to 150 to 100 psi.
It currently runs 100 to 60 psi due to the pressure switch fitted.
With the reg fitted including water trap....... the air supply will be cleaner than any thing that comes out of a ARB electric compressor.
The 12 litre tank with drain tap makes a excellant oil seperator.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1563.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1564.jpg

[101 Ron]

In the dark to night I ran a temporary wire from the dash board to the ARB three way valve and took the 101 for a quick play.
I have driven front diff locked stuff before in the form of a Haflinger and Aust army Unimogs.
This was different .
The haflinger is very light with the weight over the rear axle and therefore the front locker has little effects other than extra traction.
The mog is a lot heavier with power steering and hub reduction axles(portal) and is a totally different thing again to the 101.
My main problem is find a place close to home in the dark that would challenge the 101 with a Detroit locker in the rear which cannot be switched off.
I didn't find anywhere ,or will I in a hurry.
So I found a gravel road and twisted the wires together and on the locker went.
The heavy steering and a locked front diff means you pretty much travel in a straight line on a hardish surface........in fact one front tyre is slightly worn more than the other caused the 101 to want to vear to one side with little chance of correction without straining the front axle and CVs.
I have to reverse back to release the locker at times.
The engine being towards the front of the 101 adds to the effect.
I need to spend much time with this locker in really hard going to see the benifits of it as the detroit in the ear and the constant 4wd is doing every thing you really want to do 95 percent of the time off road.
the story continues.

[101 Ron]

My 101 is now a locked and loaded weapon!

[DODGE]

Gday ron

Magic stuff mate, cant wait to hear how she goes in tough stuff. like garry said well written.

Cheers gaz:D

[101 Ron]

I have the wiring all done with a bright red warning light on the dash board to say its on.
The light is a over kill as the steering tells you when the front axle is locked.
No matter how hard I tried to get the 101 cross axled enough to check how well the locker works on the front I couldnt really do it.
The weight of a unloaded 101 is more on the front , so that means the rear axle lifts and the front follows the ground.
With the detroit locker on the back pushing even with the centre diff unlocked it is hard to test the front locker and shows a locker in the rear of a 101 is very effective.
I know from experience climbing rock steps and greasey clay hills and the front locker will start to come into play.
The way I see this set up with the air locker so far is a tool to only use when you are in deep trouble and it is the last option other than the winch.
Was it worth the effort ?.......time will tell.
The story is with a 101 ........lock the rear diff as it helps its off road ablitity no end......but with the front the gain is nowhere near as great.
Ron

[101 Ron]

I have done a few slippery tracks now and the front locker is fantastic.
The vehicle just walks where you want it to go even more so now.
I have given both diffs a bit of a shave with the angle grinder to increase ground clearence from 10 1nches to almost 11 inches which was supprizingly easy to do.
You can grind off more meat from the diff housing but the extra gain may not be worth the extra work and a possible weaker diff houising.
I just took it down to the edge of the cover plate.
I may purchase a ARB cover plate for the rear so I dont lose strenght and will not get any oil sealing problems if I want to grind more off at a later date.
The oil drain plug still has enough around it to protect it.
It was interesting to compare the under diff clearence on my stock bog Defender 130 with salisbury.......slightly less than 8 inches.

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/02/763.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/02/759.jpg

[101 Ron]

This is a pic of the ARB cover plate that is now fitted on the rear diff.
The brake proportioning valve rod bracket is now removed and the rod just bolts in to a threaded hole tapped into the cover.
I used the original bolt and the cover is thick and strong enough to tap the threads without going right through.
The flat piece of metal beside the brake proportioning rod holds the brake pipes as the standard one wouldnt fit with the new cover.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/653.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/02/760.jpg

[101 Ron]

Just abit of a up date.
The front locker is making a difference around the farm.
A four wheel heavy checker plate trailer on the back full of fire wood ( most likely just over 2 tonnes) and a wet greasy 45 degree hill and without the locker on the front and it would have been get another vehicle to help pull me up time.
It was wothwhile on the front as I pull heavy loads around a hilly district with dirt/clay fire trails.
I was also a great way of sorting out minor problems with brakes and stopping the front CVs leaking oil for a while.
Ron

[101 Ron]

Just a up!date on a old thread.
The ARB air locker has now been in the front of my 101 for over 10 years.
The air locker has never failed to operate when I want it and the location of the air line is good on the 101 in that it's never been damaged by a stick or brush to cause it to leak.
Never had a problem with leaking O rings...........it's always worked.
Looking back now the front locker has transformed the 101 as much as the rear Detroit lock did.
The front ARB locker now means if I want to can play on nearly equal terms with modern lifted and locked vehicles or older ones with lockers like a Pinzgauer
Not that I do that often or place my 101 in a position where it will get panel or mechanical damage.
I use the front locker as the get out of jail free card in the off road game.............use it only if needed.
Steering in other than a straight line with the manual steering with the front locker on is the only option.............it's point and shoot front locker wise.
The front lock saves vehicle damage.......I just crawl first or second gear low range wise.............with the muddy tires and lockers which means excellent grip there is no need to charge or get a run up at things any more.
Was it worth the effort.........to me yes is I use my 101 in hard off road situations, often towing something ,it can be justified.
To lot of other people the front locker can never be worth the expense to the use return.
The Detroit in the rear is the best thing off road wise you can do for a 101.
In a nut shell 10 years on the front ARB is a good and reliable thing.
I might add the ARB diff cover on the front diff has also been worth the expense...............I no longer worry about denting the diff cover off road wise and the ARB cover makes it easier to do a diff shave and easily increase ground clearance.
Ron

[W&KO]

Thanks for the update.......I have had the experience with ARB lockers.