It's done it again, not the County

[Bigbjorn]

My infamous Falcon ute has stuck it to me again. Yesterday I reversed it down the dive and left it ready for use. Today I loaded it with a a heap of branches for the dump. The mongrel thing, for the ninth time in 6 years, has decided not to make sparks. Changed the module and ignition coil and it runs. Absolute ***** of a job without a hoist. This time the electronic gods decided to muddy the waters. The "Smartlock" light is supposed to flash when the vehicle is locked and turn off when unlocked. Now it is off when locked and continuously but dimly lit when unlocked. The odometer, trip meter, and funny looking symbols display is working but so dimly as to be illegible in daylight. The interior light should come on when you open and close a door for a fixed time but should go off when the ignition is unlocked. It does this, but flickers whilst driving, and when you turn off, get out and close the door stays on. The low fuel and high temp lights stay on. I am about ready to torch this $%&*()_ thing.

[Rangier Rover]

I feel for you.... This is why I don't have fords here any more:( Other than Tractors. Even they have quirks:mad:


Torch it:twisted:

[Mick-Kelly]

And people give me grief for not liking electrics in cars. At least you can count on the county.

[mike 90 RR]

My infamous Falcon ute has stuck it to me again.

The "Smartlock" light is supposed to flash when the vehicle is locked and turn off when unlocked.

..Mmmm ... Which model / year is it ??? :angel:

Mike
;)

[Tank]

Check all of your earth leads, Regards Frank.

[mike 90 RR]

Torch it:twisted:

... :mad:

[Bigbjorn]

And people give me grief for not liking electrics in cars. At least you can count on the county.

The bloody Falcon is the reason I bought the County. No electronics on the County. If you park on a slope you dont even need electricity.

It has "failed to proceed" in places as wide spread as St. Marys (three times in one day and restarted twice after a brief period, then behaved perfectly when towed to the nearest dealership), between Diamantina Lakes & Coorabulka homestead, Southeast Freeway, Brisbane streets twice, my driveway twice after being parked overnight, Coolangatta, Cunningham Highway. All bar the first instance were instantaneous and catastrophic failures where a major component or components had to be replaced.

I had to persevere with the Falcon as I take my stock in trade to as many as 20-24 swap meets a year and the Falcon is rigged for this with lockable canopy, triple roof racks, H-R towbar, electric trailer brake controller, power points in the rear, cargo mat, tie down points, etc. Takes time to get another one set up. I will be using the County for this soon as I now have a No.5 trailer so won't need to be removing and replacing the rear seats of the County to take a load.

[Shonky]

My ED used to not want to start. The "Brake Fail" light would come on and it would refuse to turn over. After a while we discovered that if you bashed the top of the dash while turning the key it would start... :o

[up2nogood]

Your engine bay wiring harness has probably corroded. Bloody crimp fittings.....
Which is why Benz solders everything. well, they used to for all the gear made in Germany. more recently they may have lapsed.....

[mike 90 RR]

Brian

What year / model is it?

[BigJon]

The smartlock system is fused together with the interior light.
Sounds like the problem is in that circuit somewhere.

[Bigbjorn]

Brian

What year / model is it?

1997 XH six cylinder auto. Done only 173000

[mike 90 RR]

1997 XH six cylinder auto. Done only 173000

My electrical experience on my 1995/6 Ford Fairlane (to date)

When I first got it ... the dash lights were playing up a bit ... then the car would go a little crazy .... Also played up for starting // Hence Shonkys reference to hitting the dash .... Turns out the Smart Lock gets cold joints in it ... Try a known good one

The circuit board inside the Smart lock is very "agricultural" ... So soldering is easy

It is located under the dash .. Left hand side of the steering wheel
It is a Green box .... If you look under the dash .. You will see it clipped to the back of the fascia panel




Another drama I had was the interior light stayed on (half glow) all the time ... it looked like a short in the interior lights + the Smartlock light kept doing a flashing quickly with a Click (Ticking) sound "in time" with the flashes ... Pulling out the interior light fuse settled it down, but also stopped the Smartlock // Car had to be started with fuse in // once started // had to pull the interior light fuse


Long story short .... It took the stripping of the interior of the car + 4 days at a Ford Dealer to solve the problem .... AS you know, Dealers are very vague in their answers ;)

So 3 possible fixes played out in this one
1 ... 1 of the interior light globes is shorted (Check all, including the one at the ignition key)
2 ... The interior light wires going under the head lining are shorted
3 ... The wires in the fuse box ... 1 of them is shot (Ford said it was this one)

4 ... IF it was a sedan ... The first place Ford Dealer went to was my boot light ... They were looking for a short in the globe / fitting ... Apparently this was a HOT favourite fix for them

As Tank mentioned .... Check all those earth straps + up2nogood suggestion


Another little "drama queen" to check is a short in the trailer electrical plug




Later on, if you want, I can tell you the wonderful story and adventures about the A/C :mad:



Hope my story helps

Mike
:(

[C H T]

I once had major intermittent electrical problems caused by a, then, common electric brake controller - I can't remember the brand but it was Australian made. I removed it after that no more problems. I was told that the manufacturer stopped supply of the particular model because of the problems it caused.

Try discnnecting the controller

CHT

[Bigbjorn]

My electrical experience on my 1995/6 Ford Fairlane (to date)

When I first got it ... the dash lights were playing up a bit ... then the car would go a little crazy .... Also played up for starting // Hence Shonkys reference to hitting the dash .... Turns out the Smart Lock gets cold joints in it ... Try a known good one

The circuit board inside the Smart lock is very "agricultural" ... So soldering is easy

It is located under the dash .. Left hand side of the steering wheel
It is a Green box .... If you look under the dash .. You will see it clipped to the back of the fascia panel




Another drama I had was the interior light stayed on (half glow) all the time ... it looked like a short in the interior lights + the Smartlock light kept doing a flashing quickly with a Click (Ticking) sound "in time" with the flashes ... Pulling out the interior light fuse settled it down, but also stopped the Smartlock // Car had to be started with fuse in // once started // had to pull the interior light fuse


Long story short .... It took the stripping of the interior of the car + 4 days at a Ford Dealer to solve the problem .... AS you know, Dealers are very vague in their answers ;)

So 3 possible fixes played out in this one
1 ... 1 of the interior light globes is shorted (Check all, including the one at the ignition key)
2 ... The interior light wires going under the head lining are shorted
3 ... The wires in the fuse box ... 1 of them is shot (Ford said it was this one)


As Tank mentioned .... Check all those earth straps + up2nogood suggestion


Another little "drama queen" to check is a short in the trailer electrical plug




Later on, if you want, I can tell you the wonderful story and adventures about the A/C :mad:



Hope my story helps

Mike
:(

Shhh! Don't mention the war. My a/c has always worked perfectly.

A friend had one of these and when it was hard to start and ran roughly he would reach under the dash and give the Smartlock box a squeeze and a thump. This usually cured the problem.

[mike 90 RR]

Shhh! Don't mention the war. My a/c has always worked perfectly.

A/C wouldn't work .... Auto spark checked for Gas leak ... They declared it's full mate // Your TX valve is blocked :o


Went to ford for a second opinion


Ended up doing a Total dash strip to get to the TX valve (at home in my shed) ... Rang up a Mobile A/C repairer to get him to change the TX valve check & the system

He say's .... First we will vacuum the gas and then refill the system to the correct weight ... before removing the TX .... So he refills it // and the friggin thing works like a charm

Spent the next 2 days putting the dash back in :(


Wanna know what's behind that dash?:wallbash:

Mike
:)