101 Winch Cable

[101RRS]

For the first time since I acquired my 101, I pulled out the cable on my Nokken winch to check its condition as the bit that was visible looked pretty shabby. The cable except for the first 3 feet is actually in excellant condition.

Unfortunately the markers to tell you when the cable is down to 5 turns on the drum were not there and I pulled all the cable out and I am not sure how it goes back in. The winch section in the service book is not a lot of help in explaining how the cable goes back in.

So here is my little drawing.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/101Winch0001.jpg

The setup is for the cable at the front. I assume the cable goes over the top of pully 1, under pully 2 and around the inner groove on the capstan. Then around pully 3 and back around the outer groove on the capstan and then to the bottom of the cable drum.

Is this correct? If not can someone point me in the right direction.

Also, how does the cable connect to the cable drum - I have found the little hole but it is at the top and I cannot turn the drum by hand and with power on it does not turn - I guess because there is no cable in the system. Is there a special connection on the end of the cable that goes into the hole in the cable drum. My cable end was just taped up.

I was also amazed at how much cable there is - must be 50 or 60m.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Garry

[Horace1664]

Hello Garry

I've replied to your duplicate question on the LRFCC&R forum.

101 club :: View topic - Nokken Winch Cable (http://www.101club.org/forums/viewtopic.php't=1859)

James

[Blknight.aus]

when it come time to rethread it dont rethread it....

find some heat shrink and shrink it onto the end of about 10ft of 5mm rope. the other end you tie onto the winch cable with a timer hitch about a foot from the end then a half hitch about half an inch from the end which you then tape or heatshrink so that theres no protrusion to foul on anything.

once youve got that done you thread the 5mm rope through lace it out as required and then pull it through. if need be you can wind the 5mm onto the drum and then manually back the drum with the cable slack to remove the 5mm rope.

Just make sure that while your lacing it the 5mm doesnt overlap itself as it will then foul on the winch rope and make a horrid mess.

[101RRS]

Hello Garry

I've replied to your duplicate question on the LRFCC&R forum.

101 club :: View topic - Nokken Winch Cable (http://www.101club.org/forums/viewtopic.php't=1859)

James

Thanks James - have responded.

I put it on the 101 forum because there are more 101 users are there and most of the likely respondents here are probably away for the long weekend and I want to have a look at it tomorrow.

Cheers

Garry

[101RRS]

Thanks Dave - good trick that I know of but didn't even think about - once I worked out the correct path for the cable and how to connect it to the drum (I might have ripped a bit off the cable end) and get the drum turned so I can get at the cable connection point, I was going to just try and thread the cable through - you advice will no doubt same me a lot of mucking around.

Cheers

Garry

[101RRS]

I have managed to rotate the drum and there are three holes - the centre one has a grub screw that obviously screws down on the cable to hold it in place. The cable feeds in one of the other holes.

Still not totally sure on the route of the cable but my drawing is not correct.

The UJs on the winch drive shaft are all shot - can the shaft be removed without pulling any of the winch apart?

Thanks

Garry

[101 Ron]

On my 101 and Misguided two both vehicles have winch UJs which flop about on the pto shaft from the transfercase.........could be normal.
I am trying to get some vid of my winch working from this Easter break.
I will post here soon.
My 101 is parked in the front yard......i can look to see how the cable goes.
Did you get it sorted ?

[101 Ron]

My 101 pulling out a Tojo from the rear.
Note the speed.....no electric winch can get near a PTO one for grunt.
More to come.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/12/944.jpg

[101RRS]

Still not sure how the cable goes.

Dodge - you just did this - any pointers.

Garry

[101 Ron]

Just looked at mne.
It is dark and raining.
From what it can see it doesnt go the way you think it would......cable is crossed all over the place.
I will have to do a detailed drawing.
On the capstan the cable comes off to the storage drum on the outer most side of the vehicle.
It feeds on from the inner most side from above(not shore from where and the cable apppaers crossed over at the idler pulley.)
Check my photo bucket as I did detailed pics for dodge to help him with his winch.

[101 Ron]

I think I have got it.
The cable comes from the front over the top pulley and down straight on to the inner chassis side groove of the capstan and around up to the angled pulley slightly above and to the front of the capstan.
The botton edge of the angled pulley feeds back on to the outer most groove of the capstan at the top and the bottom of that groove feeds the cable to the winch drum.
Does that make sense ?
The cable goes to the capstan first and the angled pulley is used to guide the cable to the other groove on the capstan.

[101 Ron]

Thread in order of your diagram
1,4,3,4

[101 Ron]

First gear winching itself out at idle.
Then top gear and a few revs......out she comes
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/09/1005.jpg

[101RRS]

Great vid Ron,

So do you still think having the cable out the rear is preferrable to the front?

Some other questions??

When I was taking the cable out it was very slow - do you pull yours out under power in reverse - is it possible to pull it out by hand?

I see in the vid you were doing a single line pull - have you needed to use a snatch block in a double line pull?

Does having the transfer case in gear so the wheels turn help much or is it not necessary.

Cheers

Garry

[101 Ron]

The winch has no free wheel and there has to be winched in or out under power.
To winch out just neutralise the transfercase and select reverse and pull the hand throttle out to about 4000 rpm and then walk around the front /back to the cable and you will find it will not feed out until you pull it.
At 4000rpm the cable will feed out at walking pace.
It is possible to feed the cable on the capstan the other way around so you have 4 speeds out and one speed in.
I like mine the way it is , one speed out and four speeds in so I can show off the speed of a good PTO winch to those silly electric things.
The winch as you would know is rated at 6000lb............but this is a miltiary rating and the winch in the real world will do more.
Even when set at 6000lb ......in the real world is more than enough to pull any similar size vehicle out of the poo.
The load clutch adjustment is a bit touchy and may not work any how as it may not release with lack of use.
This winch is different and has good and bad points
The bad stuff is
The winch has no brake and will let the load go when the clutch is pushed in.
It is extremely easy TO DRIVE OFF WITH THE WINCH STILL ENGUAGED AND SHORTEN THE CHASSIS ON THE LEFT HAND SIDE.
No free spool clutch
The good stuff
The winch is self laying and will operate winching in at high speed without fear of problems.
If you have a load on the winch and you want to let it out a bit you can just depress the clutch a bit and the load will move back untill you release the clutch again.
The winch will not operate in wards or out wards unless the cable is tight on the capstan.
On the farm I have had the vehicle winching in slowly in first gear and go down to the job ( a huge log) and put the chains around the log and get things sorted......just give the cable a sharp pull and the winch will start pulling in 50 mtrs away.
You can drive and winch at the same time and the winch and vehicle is designed to do this if needed.
I have not bothered as the winch works well enough.
I leave the cable at the rear is in NSW the vehicle is not legal with the fairhead on the front for road use....(bull bar laws)
The winch on the rear will pull cars onto a car float with the use of a snatch block on the rear pintle hook (works on the boat too)
I carry a 15/16 spanner so the the cable can be transfered front or rear if needed.
I find little need to winch from the front.
The 101 is usually recovering itself rearwards out of the poo or backing up to recover someone else.
I usually place the nose near a tree and use a tree truck protector striaght onto the front pintle hook to anchor the vehicle.
The cable lenght is twice that of those electric rubbish.
I have even one day winched the vehicle sideways off a tree from the rear by running the cable sideways though the fair head and around a tree and back onto the front pintle hook.....winch in and side ways you go.
On the logs around the farm I use direction changes and two to one with snatch blocks as some of the logs go to four tonnes.
Rear winching is better if you have someone observing and giving directions.
JUST BE VERY CAREFUL AND TRAIN YOURSELF NOT TO PUT THE TRANSFERCASE INTO GEAR UNTILL THE WINCH LIGHT IS OUT AND THE PTO LEVER IS LOCKED.
Happy winching

[101RRS]

Thanks Ron,

That is really helpful and confirms most of what I was thinking - noting that this weekend was the first time I have played with the winch and it took forever to pull it out (note to self - get hand throttle fixed) - engine was at idle.

I agree that one speed out and four speeds in is the best setup. I also can see how it would be easy to drive off with the winch still on. My previous owner had moved the light from between the main dials to make it more visible but I might change it again to a red flashing light and maybe add a low level audible indicator as well.

I will leave my cable until after my roadworthy in case they have a problem with the bits sticking out the front - I guess the rear will not be an issue.

Thanks

Garry

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/04/828.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/09/1004.jpg