View Full Version : Caravan Load Distribution
kitacooch
13th April 2009, 01:14 PM
Hi there, i aquired a van some time ago and first trip was painfully slow, couldn't get over 80kms hr due to fish tailing, on the way back i was obviously little lighter due to food, grog, and water being depleated after a week out bush and was little better, could hover around 90kms hr but could still go at any time with a little jerk of the wheel or hit a pot hole.
Next trip i had heavier springs and was carefull about how i loaded it but was no better than the trip home from the last trip, manage about 90kms hr. Now i have towed before and understand how weight distribution can greatly effect the handling and the sweying, but what is the actual rule with it, i in the past have always just made sure i had tow ball weight that felt right and if needed just shifted load a little but what do you guys do when managing weight didtribution inside your vans. If you are like me and have 4 kids and a wife, you will need to load quite a bit into it.
cheers for your replies.
cewilson
13th April 2009, 09:04 PM
10% ball weight is what I aim for - so 1000kg trailer I'd be looking at 100kg on the ball (bit hard to weigh at home so take it for a run over a public weighbridge).
You can look at the load distribution set ups they have now days. Any good trailer place should stock them.
Last and not least, make sure that the tyre pressures are correct.
kitacooch
13th April 2009, 10:42 PM
cheers am looking at the level riders etc on ebay but none pop up on the gold coast but plenty in melbourne :(, expensive new but cheap in melb on ebay. 10% ah, how do you weigh your tow ball weight? i think i have heard of some such devices but not sure cost, if i remember rightly it was too expensive for my liking.
10% ball weight is what I aim for - so 1000kg trailer I'd be looking at 100kg on the ball (bit hard to weigh at home so take it for a run over a public weighbridge).
You can look at the load distribution set ups they have now days. Any good trailer place should stock them.
Last and not least, make sure that the tyre pressures are correct.
Tombie
13th April 2009, 10:52 PM
Bathroom scales and a block of wood will check up to around 130-150kg depending on what scales you have!
Load distributing hitches require changing the towbar to a HR as the factory bar is not rated for use with them. Chassis damage is possible with the factory bar and a WDH
harlie
14th April 2009, 12:59 PM
I aim for at least 10%, Tyre preasures are important they need to be much higher than most expect. I can't tell from your avitar weather you have a D1 or D2. As Tombie states it is recommended you change the towbar that came ex-factory on the D2 if you intend on using the 250kg or higher LD systems - D1 is fine.
DiscoStew
14th April 2009, 11:03 PM
I use bathroom scales that go up to 150kg. I also use an axle stand instead of the jockey wheel/block of wood. Easy to lower the trailer hitch onto the stand and technically more accurate measure than under the jockey wheel, not that the one foot difference is likely to have any real effect. I'll have to experiment.
No advice on loading, I only have a trailer not a caravan.
Blknight.aus
15th April 2009, 12:32 AM
keep the weight low and (depending on axle count) between the suspension mounts.
full size caravans are top heavy enough and act like big sails as is..
the closer you keep the weight to the suspension the less "leverage" it has to enable the extra weight to throw the van around, if need be fit shockies if you dont have them or fit ones with a firmer damping action on compression but less on rebound (helps with stability on corners and when the wind tries to blow it but will play merry hell with off road)
the 10% rule for draw bar weight is a good guide for maximum downforce you can go less if you need to.
Landy Lady
17th April 2009, 12:01 AM
cheers am looking at the level riders etc on ebay but none pop up on the gold coast but plenty in melbourne :(, expensive new but cheap in melb on ebay. 10% ah, how do you weigh your tow ball weight? i think i have heard of some such devices but not sure cost, if i remember rightly it was too expensive for my liking.
We just bought a set of level riders from Coast to Coast in Meadowbrook in QLD. We got the four bar ones and they only cost us $160 brand new. They make a huge difference. We just got back from a 2000k trip towing our Jayco Swan and my 98 Disco didnt mind sitting on 100. I can post up a photo when we get home from Janowen!
Jodie
jmkoffice
26th April 2009, 06:57 PM
Have a look at this link:
Towing Guide (http://www.towingguide.com.au/towtrailer.html)
Cheers
MarknDeb
26th April 2009, 09:15 PM
Your compliance plate (on newer vans is in the front boot) should have youre weights engraved on it, ball and ATM. Our vans tyre pressure is 50PSI, the car we run 40psi front and 50 rear (pressures for car recomended by Mickey Thompson when tryes fitted and same for the vans tyres), If your van is an older Viscount, there was a model thats chassis is too light to be towed the 100 and to sit around 80 to 90 gives a good ride, but HR does sell a device to stop the swaying "Sway Controllers" check at Hayman Reese Towbars, Hitch Receivers, Protection Bars, Cargo Barriers, Acessories & Bike Racks (http://www.haymanreese.com.au/index.htm) and this could save a few dollars if you dont need a WDH.
Good luck
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