View Full Version : replacing swivel pin bearing today....any tips ??
NatB
16th April 2009, 08:04 AM
Hi all,
REgarding my 97 tdi Disco -
I'm going to replace my swivel pin bearings , adjusted preload / removed all shims a month or so ago to help a front end shudder issue, it's gradually crept back so now I figure it's time to change the bearings.
Any tips or advice on this job would be greatley appreciated - have got the book here, it looks pretty straightforward but we'll see.
Regards Nat
discowhite
16th April 2009, 09:20 AM
nope, its pretty simple, nothing really out of the ordinary..
with new bearings, start with all the shims you have, i needed around .040'' for both sides in the 90 and the ute.
cheers phil
mike 90 RR
16th April 2009, 09:34 AM
Simple job ... So long as you have that highly sophisticated tool, Fish scales :p
Mike
:)
NatB
16th April 2009, 11:05 AM
Simple job ... So long as you have that highly sophisticated tool, Fish scales :p
Mike
:)
Thanks mate :D
being a fishing guide , I should be right then :cool:
Will let you guys know how it goes ...
Regards Nat
PhilipA
16th April 2009, 02:26 PM
Well, one trick is to remember to put the big seal on before you check the preload without the seal.
Hang the seal on the join of the axle while you do the preload.
Regards Philip A
brianwood
16th April 2009, 02:30 PM
Philip,
Do you need to disconnect the tierod end to measure the preload accurately?
PhilipA
16th April 2009, 02:31 PM
Yes.
Regards Philip A
Blknight.aus
16th April 2009, 03:20 PM
a bigger tip is to check the movement before you put the seal on....
NatB
16th April 2009, 06:41 PM
Thanks for the tips guys :D
Pretty simple , biggest pain was refitting both circlips without circlip pliers....
Found water in RHS and no (or very little) oil in that side :o - also rust and wear on bearing.
LHS had a little water and about 100mls of a grease /oil mix ....
One issue - couldnt do the RHS pre load as I couldnt remove the tie rod end ( bolt spinning), will try that again tomorrow.
Went for a drive this arvo and it feel much better, especially @ speed over the bumps !!
Thanks again for the tips
Nat
discowhite
16th April 2009, 07:29 PM
Thanks for the tips guys :D
Pretty simple , biggest pain was refitting both circlips without circlip pliers....
Found water in RHS and no (or very little) oil in that side :o - also rust and wear on bearing.
LHS had a little water and about 100mls of a grease /oil mix ....
One issue - couldnt do the RHS pre load as I couldnt remove the tie rod end ( bolt spinning), will try that again tomorrow.
Went for a drive this arvo and it feel much better, especially @ speed over the bumps !!
Thanks again for the tips
Nat
if its the taper spinning, use a pry bar to force the tie rod back into the taper and then undo the nut. this is a good reason to not use the nyloc nuts that come with the new tie rods:eek:
cheers phil
mike 90 RR
17th April 2009, 10:57 AM
if its the taper spinning, use a pry bar to force the tie rod back into the taper and then undo the nut. this is a good reason to not use the nyloc nuts that come with the new tie rods:eek:
cheers phil
Usually the nut is undone and when you have it clear of the nylon grip part ... then you give the cast fitting a whack with a hammer, to release the grip of the tape.
Tighten it up again then undo the nut ... or ... place a jack under the tie rod and add some weight to it ... Don't lift it ... just enough to give the taper some grip, so you can undo the nut.
Mike
:)
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