Scallops' Recovery Points

[Scallops]

Folks - Following a request from SVX 37, here are a few pics of my recovery points - front are twin hooks through chassis from which I use an equaliser strap (tree trunk protector).

Rear is a shackle block in the towbar.

Front...

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/1589/dsc0001pst.jpg (http://img12.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc0001pst.jpg)

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/9271/dsc0002pst.jpg (http://img12.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc0002pst.jpg)

http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/2056/dsc0003pst.jpg (http://img14.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc0003pst.jpg)

Rear...sorry about the pic - forgot to take a close up today so here it is at the Leichhardt River crossing Savannah way, just out from Burketown...

http://img2.imageshack.us/img2/1935/dsc0188pst.jpg (http://img2.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc0188pst.jpg)

[SVX37]

Thanks heaps Scallops! Where did you go to get these or did you do yourself?

[SVX37]

Sorry Scallops - I just read the previous thread and saw you have already answered my question. :blush: I will try ARB down here in Melbourne unless other readers have suggestion in Melbourne to get something similar.

[dmdigital]

Scallops, did they go one after the bullbar?

I was looking at a pair this morning and thinking of doing the same at the front, but I suspect I'd need to drill the rails and remove the bar (and winch and lights and ... to much!). I think I might just try for some JATE rings on the front.

[Scallops]

Scallops, did they go one after the bullbar?

I was looking at a pair this morning and thinking of doing the same at the front, but I suspect I'd need to drill the rails and remove the bar (and winch and lights and ... to much!). I think I might just try for some JATE rings on the front.

They went on after the bullbar - no drilling required.


Sorry Scallops - I just read the previous thread and saw you have already answered my question. :blush: I will try ARB down here in Melbourne unless other readers have suggestion in Melbourne to get something similar.

These hooks are about $20.00 each and ARB etc will have them.

[dmdigital]

They went on after the bullbar - no drilling required. :):):):):):):):):) Guess what I'm buying Monday?

SVX - I too use a receiver in the tow hitch at the rear.

[solmanic]

Yep, after our escapades last week-end I am getting a couple fitted to mine.

[dmdigital]

Just looked at the front of mine and realised the steering protector covers that portion of the rails very nicely, so nothings visible to bolt on to. I'd also have to modify the mounting brackets for the protection plate (its a Troutbeck one). Oh well nothing's ever simple and easy as it seems:(

[JohnR]

:eek2: Ooooow an accessory!!! :p


Yep, after our escapades last week-end I am getting a couple fitted to mine.

[kenleyfred]

Scallops any chance of being able to see the front photo's. Or are they there and just not working on my computer?
Kenley

[Scallops]

Scallops any chance of being able to see the front photo's. Or are they there and just not working on my computer?
Kenley

The front RP pics took a while to load but are there now. If you can't see them still - PM me your email address and I'll send them to you. :)

[kenleyfred]

I can see them now, Don't know what is up with my computer.
Can't see how that would go with the SVX as our bash plate wraps around both sides of the chassis rail with a cut out for some of the tie down hooks to stick through.
Kenley

[LRCounty]

When I was looking into recovery hooks, i stumbled across an article that described the difference between cast and forged hooks. Bottom line is that cast hooks will fail by breaking, and the hook end becomes a missile. Forged hooks fail by bending, simply letting the strap slip off.

So when you buy your hooks, look for ones that are Forged, When I bought mine, there were two different brands side by side, about $2 difference in price, but one was cast.

Cheers
Andre

[RMB3218]

I've got a pair of jate hooks of my 07 Fender (departed) if anyone is interested PM me

[Craig]

Scallops,

I was looking at doing the same, but I just looked underneath the front and there is only one bolt hole...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/710.jpg

was another hole drilled when you fitted the roo bar? or are they all just different?

Craig

[dullbird]

I'm assuming the roo bar just slots over the top of the rails just like your original one has in the pics and bolts top and bottom rather than from the side...That is how our mantec bar was fitted no holes where needed to be drilled.

[Scallops]

Scallops,

I was looking at doing the same, but I just looked underneath the front and there is only one bolt hole...

was another hole drilled when you fitted the roo bar? or are they all just different?

Craig

I was asked this via PM - now, I neither fitted the bullbar myself nor the recovery hooks - ARB did the bar and MR automotive fitted the hooks.

But I think the 2nd hole was drilled on bar install as I'm fairly sure MR said at the time that they didn't have to drill any holes to fit the hooks.

[SVX37]

Just got these fitted today. After having a look around, I thought these would do the job nicely. The best part was I didn't need to cut into the bash plate and is mounted to the chassis in 2 places. Just replaced the original tie down points and much easier to access. A happy customer with this modification and should prove quite useful too!

And I am now up to 11 people saying..."oooohhhh, is that a Hummer!" Good grief!

Cheers,

Nigel

[kenleyfred]

Just got these fitted today. After having a look around, I thought these would do the job nicely. The best part was I didn't need to cut into the bash plate and is mounted to the chassis in 2 places. Just replaced the original tie down points and much easier to access. A happy customer with this modification and should prove quite useful too!

And I am now up to 11 people saying..."oooohhhh, is that a Hummer!" Good grief!

Cheers,

Nigel

Nigel they look great, could you let me know where you sourced them from?
Kenley

[spudboy]

Scallops,

I was looking at doing the same, but I just looked underneath the front and there is only one bolt hole...


was another hole drilled when you fitted the roo bar? or are they all just different?

Craig

I fitted 2 of Scallops' type of hooks to the front chassis, and whilst you can enlarge the existing tie-down bolt hole to 12mm, you have to drill a whole new one for the rear bolt.

I used two 140mm x 12mm high tensile bolts with NyLoc nuts each side.

Took less than an hour to do both sides.

[Captain_Rightfoot]

Good stuff. :)

I put mine on top of the bar but we did look at installing them lower. On advice I went higher on the thinking that if the car is buried to the chassis rails it might be hard to get to the hooks.

However where you have them you would get a much straighter pull on the rails which is good.

Having said that I think just fitting hooks make you less likely to need them due to Murphy's law :D

[dmdigital]

And I am now up to 11 people saying..."oooohhhh, is that a Hummer!" Good grief!

:Rolling:


But seriously, where did you get the plates from?

[Scallops]

Good stuff. :)

On advice I went higher on the thinking that if the car is buried to the chassis rails it might be hard to get to the hooks.



If you're in a situation where you might get bogged - eg - a club trip in a muddy 4 wheel drive park :D), attach a bridle and wrap it around your bull bar before you get bogged - then there's no problem. ;)

And nice work guys - no excuse for not having proper recovery points. :clap2:

[flagg]

And I am now up to 11 people saying..."oooohhhh, is that a Hummer!" Good grief!


Oh god, The Humanity!!!!!!!!!! :o:o:o:o:p Thats even worse than the 'nice jeep!' :mad:

[gaz]

Just got these fitted today. After having a look around, I thought these would do the job nicely. The best part was I didn't need to cut into the bash plate and is mounted to the chassis in 2 places. Just replaced the original tie down points and much easier to access. A happy customer with this modification and should prove quite useful too!

And I am now up to 11 people saying..."oooohhhh, is that a Hummer!" Good grief!

Cheers,

Nigel

Nigel, looks fantastic...BUT where did you get them?

[Larry]

Nigel, looks fantastic...BUT where did you get them?

I think you'll find they are from here...
Recovery Points (http://www.4x4intelligence.com.au/recovery_points.htm)

[Captain_Rightfoot]

Every time I see this thread title I get this mental image of dan being "snatched" out of killer quicksand by the belt at high speed. Am I the only one with this affliction?

[SVX37]

Sorry guys for the late reply to this thread as I hadn't looked at it recently.

They were purchased from here...

Range-Rov Automotive
187 Rooks Rd, Vermont, Melb, Vic, 3133
Ph: (03) 9874-3111

The service was exceptional and they did a fantastic job. I am really impressed.:)

[Captain_Rightfoot]

Scallops, what is the gadget that you put in your towbar? Any chance of a closer pic of that? Where did you get it from? How much?

[Scallops]

Scallops, what is the gadget that you put in your towbar? Any chance of a closer pic of that? Where did you get it from? How much?

Hello Steve - its a "block and shackle" - got mine from ARB - $50.00 from memory. The block slides into your tow bar receiver and you attach snatch stap or winch cable etc to the rated shackle it comes with.

Harry (from GCLRO) gave me a good tip with it though - that was to replace the towbar pin with a 8.8 high tensile steel bolt. This prevents easy theft, and is stronger than the standard tow bar pin.

I can take a pic later and post. :)

[Captain_Rightfoot]

Hello Steve - its a "block and shackle" - got mine from ARB - $50.00 from memory. The block slides into your tow bar receiver and you attach snatch stap or winch cable etc to the rated shackle it comes with.

Harry (from GCLRO) gave me a good tip with it though - that was to replace the towbar pin with a 8.8 high tensile steel bolt. This prevents easy theft, and is stronger than the standard tow bar pin.

I can take a pic later and post. :)

Hey Dan.. With those hints I rang ARB and they have them. Nothing $60 won't fix :o

You needn't bother with the photo. :)

[weeds]

Hey Dan.. With those hints I rang ARB and they have them. Nothing $60 won't fix :o

You needn't bother with the photo. :)

supercheap also have them....thats where i got mine from

[Captain_Rightfoot]

supercheap also have them....thats where i got mine from

EEEUUUWWWMAAARRRCCCHHHWWWAAAASSSSIIITTT? :)

What brand was it? I have issues with using supercheap stuff for something with such potential for harm :eek:

[101RRS]

The pins in the tow bar are not rated so can only be considered to be the same rating as the tow bar say 3500 - 4500kg which is way less than the ratings of most snatch straps.

I know that it is unlikely there will be any issues but we all go on about the importance of rated equipment but where these tow bar attachments are concerned we don't seem to bother. If we accept that the pin is OK then what about the tow bar - again only rated to around 4500kg but usually less.

Garry

[Captain_Rightfoot]

The pins in the tow bar are not rated so can only be considered to be the same rating as the tow bar say 3500 - 4500kg which is way less than the ratings of most snatch straps.

I know that it is unlikely there will be any issues but we all go on about the importance of rated equipment but where these tow bar attachments are concerned we don't seem to bother. If we accept that the pin is OK then what about the tow bar - again only rated to around 4500kg but usually less.

Garry

I do understand what you're saying. Having said that, for a pin of that diameter to sheer given the very small unsupported distance would be a **really** big ask. What's more I was intending to use the strap on the pin ... so with the recovery hitch in you would be so much better off. :)

I will endeavour to try and get a high tensile bolt though. What do I look for in specs? Is grade 5 ok? Is there any issues with high tensile bolts being more brittle in this type of application?

Can I just say with a big TOUCH WOOD... in nearly 5 years of owning my car, after doing quite a lot of 4wd ing in it - I've never actually gotten bogged.. or for that matter ... I've only snatched two other people out.. and they were barely stuck.

So, I do regard myself as very inexperienced in these matters. My plan will always be to lock everything up, lever the huge traction of the car and proceed gently.. cross fingers :eek:

[101RRS]

The pins have been known to bend when doing a snatch. My two recovery points are held on with two M8 bolts each - if one M5 bolt would be strong enough wouldn't rated recovery points just use one bolt?

My point is simply that we are all religious about using rated gear but not if a tow bar and associated equipment is concerned. I bet your snatch strap has a min rating of 5000kg but your towbar if it is rated will only be about 3500kg - the same as your tow ball.

Garry

[VladTepes]

But how exactly is a towbar rating calculated. Maybe that's each attachement point? If so the chance of several failing at teh same time is relatively low.

Besides... what's teh rating of teh chassis for that matter?

[mark2]

I have one of these tow bar recovery blocks - its solid steel and I'd guess it would weigh about 1-2kg. I didnt buy it - it came with a car I bought.

I feel more comfortable just putting the strap directly into the tow bar because if the pin lets go, at least there isnt going to be a sizable block of solid steel (+ a shackle) flying through the air at high speed.

As I see it, the shear forces on the pin are the same regardless of whether you put the strap in directly or use the recovery insert. The pin is probably more likely to bend using a strap rather than the block however.

[VladTepes]

The only drama is that the strap can rub against the mouth of the HR receiver and that can damage it.. making it more likely to fail.

[extreme]

I got round to taking some photo's of my recovery points on a 2000 defender extreme, I got them from MR in Redcliffe

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/04/1165.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/1730.jpg

[2stroke]

I agree with Mark2 and also while the pin is more likely to bend with the strap through it (must be a massive force and really should be alleviated with a shovel first) if you chose to use a hitch receiver the force is concentrated in 2 small spots and while the force required to shear the pin would be massive the shackle, receiver and the piece of pin on the end of a strap releasing said massive energy is a thing I don't want to witness.

[one_iota]

The weakest link in the chain (and safest when it breaks) should be the strap.

The hitch block imposes shear force on the hitch pin predominantly and the pin is less likely to fail under this circumstance than under bending. The weaker link in the hitch block assembly is probably the shackle.

However I agree that the easiest and safest recovery requires planning, preparation and good judgement.... not brute force.

[Scallops]

I got round to taking some photo's of my recovery points on a 2000 defender extreme, I got them from MR in Redcliffe



How thick are those eyelets, Kev? They look the business.

[extreme]

How thick are those eyelets, Kev? They look the business.

They are 1cm thick. I haven't been recovered yet using the new recovery points,but i am looking forward to it. :twisted: