Welch plugs replacement Disco 2

[nickcalc]

My mechanic told me that I need to replace the welch plugs on my 1999 Land Rover Discovery II. I was told that in order to do so they have to remove the engine to access the plugs...is this true?

Nick C.

[p38arover]

My mechanic told me that I need to replace the welsh plugs on my 1999 Land Rover Discovery II. I was told that in order to do so they have to remove the engine to access the plugs...is this true?

Nick C.

Much better if you replace the welch plugs. :angel:

However, apart from that, which ones? There are plugs on the sides of the engine and on the rear (these will require engine or gearbox removal). There are also plugs on the front and back of the heads.

These are the rear ones:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/1262.jpg

[awabbit6]

Much better if you replace the welch plugs.


Thanks Ron. I did a search for welch plug information a couple of weeks ago and found nothing useful until I did a search for welsh plugs! Just another reason for correct spelling on forums!


My mechanic told me that I need to replace the welsh plugs on my 1999 Land Rover Discovery II.

Why does your mechanic say they need replacing? Are there any that are leaking? They can often be replaced as a precaution, but I prefer the "aint broke, don't fix it" rule ...


Paul

[nickcalc]

Well the mechanic has inspected the car yesterday and he reckons that one of the plugs shows signs of corrosion and it's actually starting to leak! Thanks

Nick C.

[p38arover]

Ahh. If he can see it, it must be on the side. However, he may be suggesting that the motor come out and all plugs be replaced which is sensible.

[nickcalc]

Cheers mate I think you're right as what you say makes sense to me! I will get all the plugs replaced as loosing the coolant has always dire consequences! Many thanks,
Nick C.

[p38arover]

Thanks Ron. I did a search for welch plug information a couple of weeks ago and found nothing useful until I did a search for welsh plugs! Just another reason for correct spelling on forums!


I'm just about to fix the spelling to overcome that problem

[p38arover]

Cheers mate I think you're right as what you say makes sense to me! I will get all the plugs replaced as loosing the coolant has always dire consequences! Many thanks,
Nick C.

Yes, loss of coolant can be expensive.

I forgot to ask, is it a Td5 or V8? Not that it makes much difference. Unfortunately, it's not going to be a cheap exercise. :(

What coolant have you been running?

[nickcalc]

It's a V8...it used to run on the "pink" coolant (not sure of the specific type) then I switched to the "green" stuff. I know the pink coolant can be corrosive and perhaps that's why I ended up with leaky plugs after only 120,000 km's (BTW what's your opinion about this?). You see I purchased the car second hand so I didn't get to choose what coolant to chose in the first place. My mechanic supports the theory that the pink type coolant shouldn't be used in such an engine...and...yes I know it's going to be expensive to change the plugs as the engine has to be pulled out! Cheers,

Nick C.

[awabbit6]

Well the mechanic has inspected the car yesterday and he reckons that one of the plugs shows signs of corrosion and it's actually starting to leak!

I don't know what he's quoted to do them all but I'd imagine it's not cheap. I'd just replace the leaking one and be very vigilant about checking the others. They rarely blow out suddenly and you are likely to notice a significant leak prior to any damage being done. After all, you don't replace all engine gaskets when one gasket leaks. I don't think that welch plugs are any different. If the engine was coming out for another job, then you might replace the ones at the back of the engine while it was out.

I've just done one in my Disco because I noticed a slight weep. Mines a '94 300tdi and the plug I removed really wasn't that badly corroded - just started to go in one spot.

This is just my opinion based on the fact that I tend to lift my bonnet regularly just for a quick visual check and the fact that I rarely have the money to replace parts 'just in case' they fail.

[nickcalc]

Thanks Paul the mechanic quoted me over $ 1,000 for the job which is rather expensive...I will consider your advise to replace only the leaky plug although I presume it's fair to assume that the other ones will follow soon!

Nick C.

[p38arover]

If the motor has to come out, then I'd replace all the welch plugs. They are cheap and easy to do when the motor is out.

As to which of the OAT (pink) or the glycol (green) coolants are better for anti-corrosion, unfortunately I have no idea.

There were problems with the early OAT coolants and there was a class action against GM in the USA over engine damage when using Dex-Cool.

See Girard Gibbs LLP- GM Dex-Cool/ Intake Manifold Gasket Class Action (http://www.girardgibbs.com/dexcool.html)



On October 23, 2008, the California Superior Court granted final approval to the class action settlement reached with General Motors in the GM/Dex-Cool class action lawsuit. This settlement affects people who purchased or leased a "covered vehicle" anywhere in the United States other than Missouri. A separate settlement has been reached for those who purchased or leased their vehicle in Missouri, which will offer the same benefits.
The lawsuits were filed on behalf of owners of General Motors vehicles, which were factory-filled with "Dex-Cool" coolant. In summary, the lawsuits alleged that Dex-Cool degraded certain vehicles’ intake manifold gaskets and other engine sealability components, and that in certain other vehicles, Dex-Cool formed a rusty sludge, clogging the vehicles’ cooling systems and causing vehicles to overheat.
The settlement, which covers dozens of GM vehicle platforms spanning ten model years, provides $50 to $800 in cash reimbursement for class members who paid for a covered repair by May 30, 2008, and submitted a claim form by October 27, 2008.

I wonder if Holden used Dex-Cool?

[nickcalc]

Many Thanks Ron you've been a great help! I will certainly treasure your significant knowledge...and put it to good use! Cheers,

Nick C.

[awabbit6]

If the motor has to come out, then I'd replace all the welch plugs. They are cheap and easy to do when the motor is out.

I agree if it has to come out but I wouldn't be pulling the motor out just to change welch plugs that are currently OK.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

and if you pull it out,,
think clutch etc,,

[MacFamily]

I don't know what he's quoted to do them all but I'd imagine it's not cheap. I'd just replace the leaking one and be very vigilant about checking the others. They rarely blow out suddenly and you are likely to notice a significant leak prior to any damage being done. After all, you don't replace all engine gaskets when one gasket leaks. I don't think that welch plugs are any different. If the engine was coming out for another job, then you might replace the ones at the back of the engine while it was out.

I've just done one in my Disco because I noticed a slight weep. Mines a '94 300tdi and the plug I removed really wasn't that badly corroded - just started to go in one spot.

This is just my opinion based on the fact that I tend to lift my bonnet regularly just for a quick visual check and the fact that I rarely have the money to replace parts 'just in case' they fail.

Nick I dont want to Hi-jack your thread but Iam about to replace mine on the defender 300tdi amoungest other things.

Quick question to you Paul did replace all of them on your 300tdi or just the leaking one?Did you leave the motor in the engine bay?

The second welch plug behind the turbo is leaking on mine and Ive pulled the inlet/exhuast manifold ect off just thinking should just change the leaking one or all 3 on the side of the motor.The rear would be a bit hard to change with motor in I would imagine.

But I did purchase four and would be a pain if in a couple of months another would leak and have to do it all over.

[awabbit6]

Nick I dont want to Hi-jack your thread but Iam about to replace mine on the defender 300tdi amoungest other things.

Quick question to you Paul did replace all of them on your 300tdi or just the leaking one?Did you leave the motor in the engine bay?

The second welch plug behind the turbo is leaking on mine and Ive pulled the inlet/exhuast manifold ect off just thinking should just change the leaking one or all 3 on the side of the motor.The rear would be a bit hard to change with motor in I would imagine.

But I did purchase four and would be a pain if in a couple of months another would leak and have to do it all over.

Mine was leaking from exactly the same plug - right behind the turbo. I didn't remove the engine and just did the one that was leaking. I considered doing the three of them, but my thoughts were the opposite - what if one of the ones that isn't leaking at the moment doesn't seat properly and the new one starts to leak! That would be more of a pain.

The inlet and exhaust manifolds aren't that hard to remove anyway and I was able to re-use the manifold gasket because it was new last year when I replaced the head gasket.

[MacFamily]

Thanks Paul that was my thoughts, I replaced the manifold gasket also only six months ago but bought another just in case, must of started to leak after I cleaned up that side of the motor and removed the oil/dirt :D.Should have left crap there.

I think I will just replace the one for now.Keep the others for spare, was also talking to dave (incisor) the other day he said to use stag to seal with What did you use?

[awabbit6]

... was also talking to dave (incisor) the other day he said to use stag to seal with What did you use?

I didn't use anything. I gave the sealing surface inside the block a good clean with wet and dry first. I don't use sealing compounds unless I really have to. I hate having to clean it off the next time I have to work in the same area and I worry about sealer getting to places it shouldn't. I replaced the 'P' gasket at the front of the block at the same time I did the welch plug. Again, cleaned up both surfaces perfectly with wet and dry then back together with no sealer.
I very rarely have leaks after reassembly.

[awabbit6]

... must of started to leak after I cleaned up that side of the motor and removed the oil/dirt :D.Should have left crap there.

My oil leak has just stopped after I cleaned the engine!!! :o

I'm going to check that there is still some oil in it!!;)

[Panya]

Bought a Defender in late 95 that within a year had a pinhole leak in a welch plug (I always used to call the core plugs - and then you don't get spelling mistakes;)!) clouds of steam but no overheating as I stopped immediately. Replaced only the one and have had no problems since (with core plugs anyway!). From a few comments on this thread the plugs going are exhaust manifold side? Mine was. I wondered if it was radiant heat on the outer surface that made it corrode quicker, perhaps on an existing flaw. Anyway If that is the case here I would also not pull out the engine if the leaky plug was accessible in the engine bay - I don't believe it was anything but a component failure and I have not seen any since in 2 x 300 Tdi 1 x 200 Tdi and so far the Td5 (touch wood he says nervously hoping the landrover gods won't take note...:p)

[p38arover]

I must admit that I wouldn't pull the engine unless the rear welch plugs were known to be leaking.

If they weren't, I'd pull all the accessible welch plugs out and check them for corrosion. You might have only one faulty plug.

At most, to replace the plugs in the side of a V8, you only need to remove the exhaust manifolds (a bugger of a job to refit in a P38A!) and then only if you need more access.

[PLR]

G`day Nick ,

Some of the plugs can`t be got at with the engine in , there are also some in the heads and the mechanic may consider they all should be done but if he`s only talking about the main block plugs ..............

If the leaks at the bellhousing the engine needs to come out ... IF ...... it is the plugs at the back of the block and this .. if .. needs investigating because coolant likes to show at the bellhousing from up higher even from the inlet manifold .

If it`s any of the six on the sides they can all be done with the engine in .

The exhaust manifolds/extractors downpipes ( whatever it has ) need to come off , the engine mounts and the part that bolts to the block need to come out and the starter as well to get at them .

It`s a mongerel job but it can be done will the right frame of mind by anyone with a bit of nous, the biggest problem is getting enough throw with the mash hammer to refit the plugs .

The plugs are easily removed by spinning and extracting with nothing more than a hammer and punch and a pair of muligrips .

If you`re in a situation where it`s possible ........ as soon as a couple of plugs are removed they will tell the story for the others .

The reason the plugs have failed needs investigating .

Cheers