2.25 diesel valve stem seals, advice pleeeease!!

[relick62au]

My 1980 vintage 2.25 diesel requires valve stem seals, I hope thats all it is....

I have the seals, the ones for the inlet valves have a spring attached to the top.

I have the valve spring compressor and the new tappet cover gasket, all I need now is some advice from someone who has done one...........

Gues I'll go read the workshop manual in the meantime!!!

Russell.

[Blknight.aus]

do you want it the by the book way or the shortcut way?

if you want to do it the proper way you also need the head gasket, if you want it the short cut way your going to want a grease gun full of 85/140 and an adaptor made up from an old glow plug and plenty of arm strength.

[relick62au]

Hmmm, head gasket I would like to avoid, lets talk about that grease gun, u have my un-divided attention!!

Russell.

[Sprint]

simple, adapt a glowplug body to allow you to pump the cylinder full of oil, with the valves closed, the oil will force the valves to stay closed allowing you to get a valve spring compressor in to remove the collets, retainer and spring, replace the seal and refit the spring, retainer and collets

[Landy Smurf]

i have just bought mine ready to do very soon but havnt done one before any more info would be great

[Blknight.aus]

Close enough Sprint....

basically

remove all your glow plugs

wind the engine over a few times by hand. so you know exactly your start point AND the valve sequence once youve got that remove the rockers.

get the pot you want to work on halfway down on the intake stroke and then pump about 150ml of oil into the glow plug hole.

wind the engine by hand untill the oil starts to come out of the glow plug hole and then insert the glow plug.

Usually at this point I tie off a breaker bar onto the crank nut so that its trying to work the pistion up into the now hydraulicly locked cylinder and get some tension on it. an offsider is a better option. if the crank backs you can loose the pressure that will hold the valve in place.

you now have to work quickly as the oil will leak down past the rings and the piston can move up, once the pressure on the oil drops the valve can fall in.

push the valve crown down and remove the collets.

remove the valve crown remove the spring, pull the seal and replace.
put the spring and crown in place push down drop in the collets and secure them in correctly.

remove the glow plug and setup the next cylinder.

turn the engine over several times by hand and then on the starter with the glow plugs out to get most of the oil out. clean any excess oil off of your glow plugs, install them and then go for a start.

make sure before you go for a start that you have removed the air duct to the manifold so that if it tries to run away on the oil thats in there that you can starve it of air to slow it down ( a CO2 extinguisher works really well as well)


and thats the basic gist of it.

if you want a hand you're welcome to drop by.

[relick62au]

You're a bloody lifesaver Dave. Ya gotta love definitive instructions!!!

I would take u up on the offer of assistance but trailering the old girl 1800k would but a bit of a trip.

I'll let you know how it goes.

Could get messy!!!!

Russell.

[Blknight.aus]

well theres a certain number of guys who are coming up on the cape trip and I think we pass and will be stopping close by.

They might be able to help out....

is there anything touristy near where you are?

[chazza]

I haven't heard of the oil method before but I have heard of people using compressed air to hold the valve up and also synthetic twine.

Disconnect the battery first - accidental turning of the starter during this operation might damage the engine badly. :eek:

With the twine method do as Dave does, then feed the twine - the sort that is synthetic, about 3mm in diameter, not furry and won't drop bits - into the cylinder through the spark plug, or glow plug hole. When a goodish length is piled on top of the cylinder use the starting handle to carefully ease the piston up as high as it will go. If enough twine has been fed into the cylinder it will bear on the valve face and hold it up. Make sure that a good lengthy-tail is hanging out of the head, so that it can be retrieved and to avoid all of it disappearing inside the cylinder. Advantages are: no mess; a positive lock; no leak-down; no fear of the engine running on oil.

I also use this method on my chainsaw to seize the motor, whilst undoing the nut on the centrifugal clutch, for servicing of the bearing behind it. On a 2-stroke engine the piston needs to be quite high before inserting the twine, so that it doesn't get caught in the ports,

Cheers Charlie

[relick62au]

well theres a certain number of guys who are coming up on the cape trip and I think we pass and will be stopping close by.

They might be able to help out....

is there anything touristy near where you are?

Mate, Kuranda is tourist central!!! Kuranda Markets will keep the women happy (if u r bringing any), worth checking out the kuranda Falls, the lookout on the Kuranda Range is a popular "kodak" spot. When r u coming up and which route are u taking from Cairns. Inland thru Mareeba or up the coast via Cooktown??

Russell.

[Blknight.aus]

I haven't heard of the oil method before but I have heard of people using compressed air to hold the valve up and also synthetic twine.

Disconnect the battery first - accidental turning of the starter during this operation might damage the engine badly. :eek:

With the twine method do as Dave does, then feed the twine - the sort that is synthetic, about 3mm in diameter, not furry and won't drop bits - into the cylinder through the spark plug, or glow plug hole. When a goodish length is piled on top of the cylinder use the starting handle to carefully ease the piston up as high as it will go. If enough twine has been fed into the cylinder it will bear on the valve face and hold it up. Make sure that a good lengthy-tail is hanging out of the head, so that it can be retrieved and to avoid all of it disappearing inside the cylinder. Advantages are: no mess; a positive lock; no leak-down; no fear of the engine running on oil.

I also use this method on my chainsaw to seize the motor, whilst undoing the nut on the centrifugal clutch, for servicing of the bearing behind it. On a 2-stroke engine the piston needs to be quite high before inserting the twine, so that it doesn't get caught in the ports,

Cheers Charlie


the twine trick wont work on a 2.25 diesel (unless your combustion chambers have fallen out). and I dont trust the compressed air.

[relick62au]

I am starting to think it might be better in the long run to take the head off and give it to the professionals to get it checked, anyone got an idea on what this might be worth, if all well of course and no diss-assembly is required besides putting in the seals.

If it would pass roadworthy I would let it go but it wont unless I get at least the seals fixed up.

I don't know the history of this motor, it blows clouds of blue at startup, then continues to blow intermittently until warm, and I mean normal operating temp. Even then under load there is blue but not lots.

I will do a compression and leakdown test as blknight suggested. Thing is the panels are not back on the front end and if there is motor work to do I want to do it before I give myself access problems!!

[Blknight.aus]

put the wings back on..

with the exception of a couple of plugs on the back of the engine and the clutch/crankshaft(and even then if your willing to remove the gearbox) you can rebuild the 2.25 in situ including replacing the crank main bearing shells)

the only thing you cant do with the radiator in place is pull the camshaft out.

[Aaron IIA]

I replaced my stem seals without using oil, air or rope. Quick and clean.

Aaron.