xedi starter motor clicking

[trentski]

Hi all,

The freebie is clicking instead of starting, well sometimes it starts but mostly it just clicks.

What's the first thing I should do?

Check the battery volatge and all connections?

Then what?

How much is a new starter going to cost to get installed?:mad:

[SuperMono]

The battery is the obvious bit.
I had similar symptoms a little while back if the Freebie had been sitting for a few days.
Went away when I changed the battery in the Key Fob and hasn't returned.

[trentski]

The battery is the obvious bit.
I had similar symptoms a little while back if the Freebie had been sitting for a few days.
Went away when I changed the battery in the Key Fob and hasn't returned.

you changed the battery in the remote and that solved the problem?:o

I took the engine covers off and finally found the starter motor but couldn't for the life of me figure out how to get to it, so after about an hour of standing around looking at it I put the engine covers back on and the problem hasn't reappeared since:confused:

[cewilson]

Try Technical - looks like you're struggling for an answer here.

Personally, check battery, then wiring (esp connections) then I'd start looking at the solenoid. Next time it clicks give it a hit with a shifter or something similar and see if it then works :)

Cost wise - anything up to $500 to be honest. Get it out yourself and take it in and it'll be cheaper.

Cheers
Chris

[SuperMono]

I knew I shouldn't have said 'it went away' :(
Back today (twice), my guess is that it is battery related as although it cranks OK when it does, the battery is pretty old and voltage is a bit low.

[PhilipA]

Have you got a multimeter?
If so put it across the battery terminals and get the wife /spouse /mate/ whatever to crank it.
Anything under about 11 volts is no good.
But the odds are it has carked it.
Regards Philip A

[SuperMono]

Seems it is actually the surface charge voltage rather than what happens when loaded. On my long neglected, never calibrated multimeter 12.1V means click click, 12.5 means cranking.
1 minute on the charger is enough to lift the surface charge voltage to the point cranking happens. So the long overdue battery replacement better happen this week.

Any battery suggestions?

[trentski]

Thanks for all the replies guys, so far it hasn't reappeared. I estimate the battery to be about two years old.

I have no idea how to get the starter motor out to look at the solenoids, its just above a drive shaft and below the aircleaner, it's a tiny motor in a huge engine bay and they put all the stuff you might want to get to in stupid places.

[SuperMono]

Hmm, mine is still clicking, even with the new battery....
Being an ex-sparky you would think I would measure more things before making my diagnosis of an old dead battery.
Actually the battery was old and tired, dropping overnight below 12V.
My new diagnosis is that the starter or solenoid is 'stuck' when cold.
A few 'clicks' generally 'unstuck' it and restarts are a breeze while it is warm under bonnet.

On the weekend I'll look for real.

When it does crank that new battery sure does whir it up fast though :)

[SuperMono]

I think I have confirmed my diagnosis.

Should have done this earlier.
Hooked up the battery voltage and the starter solenoid feed to a data logger I have left over from a previous life.
Turned the key until it started, looked at the data.

The data fits.
Voltage to the solenoid is present for as long as you hold the key in the 'start' position (a few seconds is all I tried) and you get a minor drop in the battery voltage which would sit about right for the initial solenoid current.
The solenoid 'clicks'.
Let go of the key and the solenoid voltage collapses immediately (well within 1/10sec).

When it does actually start the initial voltage for the battery matches the inrush to the starter then as the motor picks up speed you start to see the voltage rising as the alternator gets going.
Takes about 1/3sec to get going.
Then release the key and the solenoid voltage decays rather than drop immediately.

So looks like the starter has to come out as either the solenoid is not pulling all the way in or some other internal gremlin is at work.
Anyone done this?
Looks easy enough in RAVE.
Alternatively I will hit the starter with a broomstick prior to cold starts.

I much prefer this situation than a mysterious case of missing voltage through ECU woes or similar.

[richard4u2]

sounds to me like you have a lose conection some where , run a spanner around all the wires that have something to do with the starter

[SuperMono]

I have eliminated any loose external connections.
After previously poking and prodding the local connections and finding nothing, I used the data logger to measure the voltage at the starter terminals themselves during attempted and successful starts.
The volts are all there at the right time but no rotation.
So something internal to the starter is causing grief.

[Junosi]

There's repair kits for Freelander starters on ebay for £10 - so can't be all that uncommon a problem. Looks like the kit replaces the solenoid - here's a link:

LANDROVER FREELANDER AND TD4 STARTER MOTOR REPAIR KIT* on eBay, also, Land Rover, Car Parts, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 04-Jun-09 20:53:48 BST) (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LANDROVER-FREELANDER-AND-TD4-STARTER-MOTOR-REPAIR-KIT_W0QQitemZ330334004176QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Car sParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item4ce970e3d0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1683%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C 240%3A1318%7C301%3A0%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50)

edit: ebay links don't last forever - ebay.co.uk and search for freelander starter repair

Clark

[SuperMono]

I pulled the starter out this morning and one of these kits would sort it out, if I can get one for the V6 starter.

The ebay seller doesn't list the V6 stater part number 78000-7710 which doesn't mean the parts won't fit, so I will have a look at some local auto sparky shops to see what I can find.

For the moment I have dressed the contacts up a little and Freebie started 1st time, but it won't last.
The contact on the starter side is fairly small and so it wears faster than the larger contact on the solenoid side.

Another approach would be to build up the contact surface with silver solder.
Call that 'Plan C'