how to bend rocksliders to follow the body line...

[long stroke]

Hi all:)
Matman came over the sarv to make a start on his rocksliders for his d2, after we had the plates tacked on to the 75x50 RHS we held it in position and noticed the disco body isn't strate, so the slider doesn't run true with the body:mad:
So we are just after some solutions to this prob;)
How have you bent your sliders to follow the line of the body??, we thought of cutting a slot and bending it, so thats still an option if needed also thought and read about people using an oxy to put a slight bend in it;)

Pics
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/1137.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/1138.jpg

Thanks in advance TIM (and Mat:D)

[Lucus]

Chock the middle of the tube up with a block of wood that 1.5 to 2 times the
amount you need to bend the tube and run over it a few times with the disco.

(i am serious):)

Or find somebody with a half decent hydraulic press:D

[Jock The Rock]

I reckon you're right about the cutting, bending then rewelding idea. That's how I would do it

Even if you heated it you would end up with a slight bulge on each side

Here's a few pics of my brothers sliders. Someone on here made them

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/1133.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/1134.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/1135.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/1136.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/1100.jpg

[long stroke]

Thanks guys:)
The pics are great!!
Looks like cut and welding is the easyest:cool:

CHEERS TIM.

[Slunnie]

You can send them off to an engineering/fabrication/trailer etc shop and have them rolled into shape.

[Tombie]

You can send them off to an engineering/fabrication/trailer etc shop and have them rolled into shape.

Thats what I'd suggest too...

IIRC the radius is something like 30meters

[hook]

Hack saw.
See last post.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/68778-air-tank-worthwhile-3.html

[harry]

don't bother,
here's some pics of my set,

[chazza]

If you run a series of welds across the top side of the slider, the contraction of the welds will bend the tube. You can then grind/sand the welds off afterward.

The other suggestions of a press, rolls or driving on them will also work but it can be awkward to get any precision into the bend sometimes,

Cheers Charlie

[discowhite]

If you run a series of welds across the top side of the slider, the contraction of the welds will bend the tube. You can then grind/sand the welds off afterward.

The other suggestions of a press, rolls or driving on them will also work but it can be awkward to get any precision into the bend sometimes,

Cheers Charlie


quite true,,,if the SHS was wafer thin:eek: not really possible on 50x50x4SHS.

just one cut through 3 sides with a drop saw (4mm wide) bend up till they touch again and re weld, then finish off with a flap disc.
i have made numerous sets like this (jock, them sliders are mine) and can say that there is no way in hell that they will break in there fittment and use on a 4x4.

cheers phil

[Cap]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/1100.jpg

I wouldnt have the bolts just protruding on the other side. I had a plate on with side of the sill which acts like an anti-crush tube and also to spread the load. A decent knock on the outer edge of the rock slider would probably punch the nuts on the inside sill right through the pannel.

Just my 2c ;)

[Boxer]

Stooge is right. If anything, I fitted quite wide washers to spread the load.

[Urban Panzer]

I agree with the use of rollers, best way imo.

I bought mine recently and they were rolled to fit the body line, except right at the front where the bottom of the wing is as that goes up even further which is why there is a "fillet" on the original plastic trim.

mine are rolled slightly and the angle changes about 1/2 way along the front door. If I had made them myself, I would have added a weld / fillet piece at the front section to "fill" the gap, still could I suppose but it would ruin the nice paint job at the mo :D

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/1096.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/1097.jpg

[klappers]

I agree with the use of rollers, best way imo.

I bought mine recently and they were rolled to fit the body line, except right at the front where the bottom of the wing is as that goes up even further which is why there is a "fillet" on the original plastic trim.

mine are rolled slightly and the angle changes about 1/2 way along the front door. If I had made them myself, I would have added a weld / fillet piece at the front section to "fill" the gap, still could I suppose but it would ruin the nice paint job at the mo :D

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/1096.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/1097.jpg

Thats different. I like it!:)

[discowhite]

correct! the previous owner of that D2 and sliders ''the entertainer'' was told to get some 50x3 FMS and cut it 50 long and drill holes in the center....looks like he never did:eek:

cheers phil

[long stroke]

Thanks for the reply's and pics!!!
I doubt the nuts would punch through with crush tubes fitted;)
But yes big washers would be the go aswell:)

CHEERS TIM.

[harry]

don't bother,
here's some pics of my set,
sorry, not puta literate, don't do big pics yet.
if you look at the pics of my set closely, you will see that the weight of the car is taken directly on the beam under the sill, this is no lower than the original plastic side, and the outside has a verticle beam welded to that with the tube rail welded to that, so you can anchor the car to a tree for recoveries with chains or whatever, from the sliders.
i will proudly say we copied and modified d'ranged's design, and changed it to our requirements. justin saved me once and i appreciate the value of the side tubes.
the sliders are bolted to the body with four main tags and also bolted through the lower flange of the body tapped into the lower beam.

[Jock The Rock]

i have made numerous sets like this (jock, them sliders are mine) and can say that there is no way in hell that they will break in there fittment and use on a 4x4.

cheers phil

I had a feeling they were made by you. Think I posted the pics up once before.

With the crush tubes, I highly doubt my brother will ever do any 4WDing that will require them :p besides theres no rocks down here just mud :twisted:

If I get a chance when he's home sometime I'll make some up though.

Thanks for pointing that out :)

[chazza]

quite true,,,if the SHS was wafer thin:eek: not really possible on 50x50x4SHS.

cheers phil

Not sure what you mean by "wafer thin", or why you think that is relevant anyway. If the amps are turned up high enough, the SHS will distort no matter how thick the wall thickness - 24 years of welding different thickness metal has taught me that. The heaviest piece of metal I have distorted with a single weld is 32 mm plate!

Cheers Charlie

[discowhite]

turning the amps up that high will blow holes in the SHS.

cheers phil

[Disco_ute84]

If you run a bead or heat it with an oxy then quench it with a wet rag it will have more influence on the contraction.

Try this every 8 -12 inches and see how the bend looks, if it isn't enough go every 4-6 inches.

If you get someone to roll you a piece of RHS you need to start with a piece about a meter longer then you need, as they need a bit extra each end to start the rollers on.

Cheers,

Tim

[chazza]

turning the amps up that high will blow holes in the SHS.

cheers phil

The object of the exercise is to put a hot enough weld down to cause some useful contraction, not to blow holes; therefore; adjusting the machine to within the amp range specified on the packet and doing some practice beads on an offcut of the same thickness first, is not a difficult to achieve.

I agree with Disco_ute84; the oxy set will do the same job but probably cost more, given the exhorbitant price of gas nowadays,

Cheers Charlie

[discowhite]

the problem with pad welds is the build up of heat, so you still have to change the amp settings to suit. i just cant see how it would be benificial, time and money wise, to sit there and pad weld away to acheive the same result with one cut??
i might not have been welding for 24 years, more like half that, so i do know what im talking about.

cheers phil

[klappers]

okay okay....so the best way to do it would be to roll it??

[VladTepes]

just fit them "as is" and use trees to bend them into shape while off-roading !

[cucinadio]

okay okay....so the best way to do it would be to roll it??



no not really the best way imho would be to cut and weld it to shape .......:angel:


cheers

[victa125]

Get um sticks rub together, Make big fire have barbie and beers while watching offending item heating up, bend to suit, forge could also work.:)

[Slunnie]

okay okay....so the best way to do it would be to roll it??
I agree, it'll give a really nice smooth professional factory line to the slider.

[long stroke]

The big question is does anybody know of a ruff price for getting sliders "rolled"?

TIM.

[chazza]

the problem with pad welds is the build up of heat, so you still have to change the amp settings to suit. i just cant see how it would be benificial, time and money wise, to sit there and pad weld away to acheive the same result with one cut??
i might not have been welding for 24 years, more like half that, so i do know what im talking about.

cheers phil

Hmmm! I think the goal posts keep getting moved here Phil. Who mentioned pad welding?

Single beads using the technique described by Disco_ute84 will work. So will every other method decribed on this thread. The efficiency or otherwise can be decided by anyone who is planning to make rock sliders.

Cheers Charlie

[discowhite]

the idea behind all this is heat?? heat is what changes the molecules in the steel that causes the contraction??
thats why i mentioned pad welding.. oxy welding adds heat so does pad welding. i just cant see how stitch welding SHS or RHS will change its shape EASILY.
so i did a test.
1 piece of 50x50x3 SHS (what i make sliders out of for disco's) welded 3 times down its length of 9'', result, no contraction/distortion at all. the only time it distorted was when it was quenched, as you can see it move, once it cooled it was back to straight.
http://inlinethumb42.webshots.com/44137/2461585300100509853S600x600Q85.jpg
http://inlinethumb17.webshots.com/33232/2867218410100509853S600x600Q85.jpg
the second is a piece of 40x4 FMS welded 2 times down its length of 9''. this contracted once quenched and remained bent when cool,,,by bugger all mind you. over 9'' there is a difference of 2mm.
http://inlinethumb47.webshots.com/42222/2067672870100509853S600x600Q85.jpg
http://inlinethumb04.webshots.com/44227/2742040940100509853S600x600Q85.jpg

so unless im doing something wrong i cant see how your method would be easier than a cut and weld?
im not saying that bending via rollers is not a good practice, i just believe that for your run of the mill backyarder who wants to knock a set of sliders up on the weekend the easiest practice is to cut,bend and weld.

cheers phil

[4wd4fun]

Try welding across the tube not along it a couple of hot welds making sure to get the edges hot.
Also if you run the weld along the courners (2) of the box not the centre that will also bend it as you need to bend the sides not the centre as it wil flex.

[Jock The Rock]

Can I just say another thing. By the time we have all worked out what is best, welded half a dozen runs onto the RHS, quenched it, then ground the welds off and then hit it with a flat wheel to get it looking normal again. I reckon I could have a set knocked up

By using the simple and easy method of cutting and welding it :p

Geez fellas I know your out to prove a point but aren't there bigger problems in the world. When the time comes Tim will do what he reckons is easiest for him no matter what we say ;)

Now I shall run away while you all have a go at me :p

[discowhite]

Can I just say another thing. By the time we have all worked out what is best, welded half a dozen runs onto the RHS, quenched it, then ground the welds off and then hit it with a flat wheel to get it looking normal again. I reckon I could have a set knocked up

By using the simple and easy method of cutting and welding it :p

Geez fellas I know your out to prove a point but aren't there bigger problems in the world. When the time comes Tim will do what he reckons is easies for him no matter what we say ;)

Now I shall run away while you all have a go at me :p

thats my point exactly.

cheers phil

[markd2]

hi guys
Made mine from round tube 48mm OD 4mm wall thickness .Purchased tube bender and all material for less than $350.00 . Attached to chassis rails with crush tubes very strong can be jacked off (oh did I really say that!!!) . They look a lot like ARB ones but are much stronger and half the price and I effectively got the bender for free.

[Disco_ute84]

When i said run a bead/ heat it with the oxy, i ment across the RHS
Imagine this is a piece of RHS viewed from the top, and these, ; , are were it is getting heated, (or having a bead ran), all the way across the top face every 6" or so.
---------------------

; ; ; ; ; ; ; ; ; ; ; ; ;
---------------------

After heating each area quench it with a wet rag, and hey presto you have a gradual bend.

I'll even go as far to bet Kevin Rudd's left n#t that it will work:wasntme:

Cheers,

Tim

[chazza]

I also meant to weld across the SHS, not along it. Imagine each weld doing the same job as a sharpish press tool pushing in one spot and bending the tube slightly. The fact that you got 2mm of distortion Phil, proves that the concept works.

Once again the discussion has shifted to "what is easiest" when the original question was "how to". Five or six different methods have been suggested, all will work, whether it is worthwhile or not, can be decided by the person doing the job.

Cheers Charlie

[long stroke]

I think the cut and re-weld idea sounds good to me:cool:
The rolled idea would probably be the neatest but also most expensive;)

TIM.

[Baffle]

Here's my 2 bob, this needs min 1 mate to help,
Get a good bit of timber and belt 2 nail where the straight length is to be before the bend and then a third where the bend will end look a bit like this
.
. . pretend there the nails.
Now by this stage your mate is on his 2nd beer out of your fridge, heat where the bend is meant to be and put steel under nails on timber, get mate to stand on steel length to hold it there, he now is holding his third beer and a bucket of water, cool steel to third nail and ask mate to tip water over the bend, he does this and yes gets more water in your boots and the floor than on the steel but he tried and it worked sorta. stand back and assess, look at mate who says it looks great as he heads to the fridge, if there is no re-bending move onto the next, it should only take 6 beers time, now you better feed your mate.
Just a thought, they will look great when there finished.:D.

ps cool steel in right spots so steel does not warp in the wrong direction, :)

[discowhite]

I also meant to weld across the SHS, not along it. Imagine each weld doing the same job as a sharpish press tool pushing in one spot and bending the tube slightly. The fact that you got 2mm of distortion Phil, proves that the concept works.

Once again the discussion has shifted to "what is easiest" when the original question was "how to". Five or six different methods have been suggested, all will work, whether it is worthwhile or not, can be decided by the person doing the job.

Cheers Charlie

and where in any of my posts did i say it didnt work?

[cucinadio]

so after all that are we gong to get a look at the fini product??...(insert big smiley here as the new ones are gay ...!!)

oppp's!! edit there back !!!......:D

cheers

[Matman]

Thanks for all the replies actually these are my sliders Tim just had a camera on hand lol.As Tims Dad will be doing all the welding its up to him how they get done lol.But the cut and bend method sounds the easiest.Hiding a weld with a grinder is pretty easy so ill suggest to do that.Im sure Tim will post a heap of pics as they are being made.:D

Cheers Matman

[Matman]

Have been working on the sliders today(until it rained)getting there slowly.I cut the main section with the cut of saw and got Rod to reweld them back up again.
Cheers Matman.

[dullbird]

looking good

[discowhite]

matman, i take it the bit cut out of the SHS is to clear the ''A'' and ''B''pillars on the sill?? if they are invert the cut out bits back into the SHS and re weld. this will save you having to find something to fill the cut out.

also, keep at minimum 10mm away from the bottom of the doors. ive seen ones made that are really neat and close to the door line that dont allow the door to be opened when ballanced on a rock or a hi lift.

cheers phil

[Matman]

matman, i take it the bit cut out of the SHS is to clear the ''A'' and ''B''pillars on the sill?? if they are invert the cut out bits back into the SHS and re weld. this will save you having to find something to fill the cut out.

also, keep at minimum 10mm away from the bottom of the doors. ive seen ones made that are really neat and close to the door line that dont allow the door to be opened when ballanced on a rock or a hi lift.

cheers phil

Yes will do with the 10mm gap.And the A & B pillar cut outs ive kept the bits somewhere lol.Otherwise ill put a flat piece in instead so atleast the dirt wont sit in there.