View Full Version : Mitchell Bros hitch and Reverse sensors
JAMS
6th May 2009, 11:48 PM
Hi All,
Have had a Mitchel Bros hitch fitted to 08 SE TDV6 for about 6 months and love it we regulary tow about 3t of boat or Outback Jayco over some pretty knarly country and it is working a treat. But ... we have never been to worried about the constant reverse beep as we dont have to do very much reversing at all.(we are in the pilbara to go forwards not backwards) untill today when Mum found a Bollard at the park with the kids. There is no damage to speak of, it hit bang on the l/h sensor closest to the tow hitch and popped the tread piece up in the bumper a quick push and you would never know. So it is probably time to make the sensors work as they should . When i was researching the Mitch Bros hitch i came acrosss a thread about modifing the sensors to prevent the constant beep. Can any one help
maca
7th May 2009, 12:04 AM
There called mirrors.
They are located on the front driver and passenger doors.
Sometimes there is even one in the middle of the windscreen aswell!!
Sorry for being such a smart arse but I just couldn't help my self.
We have the same problem with the factory tow bar on my work car, a Holden Adventura.
gps-au
7th May 2009, 06:55 AM
There called mirrors.
They are located on the front driver and passenger doors.
Sometimes there is even one in the middle of the windscreen aswell!!
Actually, sometimes they are externally mounted outside above the rear window as well.
Until yesterday, I had never actually driven a vehicle with working rear sensors (it was a loan vehicle, my "S" does not have them). Well I still prefer the external rear mirror trick I used on my old troopie.
Now to just locate a suitable unit for my D3...
------------------------------
As to the real topic, change the alignment of probably the inner two sensrs to adjust their field of view NOT to include the hitch.
rmp
7th May 2009, 07:15 AM
There are instructions on disco3.co.uk. Two ways to do it:
I went to the hardware store and found some sticky back plastic discs that are for putting on the bottom of chair legs. They are grey in colour. I cut them in half with a hacksaw, painted them black and stuck them on.
They are a prefect size. Stick them on with the straight edge (the cut edge) vertical facing the outer side. they still work but the as the caps are on the inner area of the circle, they ignore the hitch.
and
You need to do this modification before installing the hitch or remove before doing so.
Undo the screws holding the bottom of the rear bumper skin, the skin is the plastic bit over the top of the steel bumper bar. The screws are along the bottom of the rear bumper to the left and right of the hitch.
The sensor is housed in a plastic housing that clips into the bumper skin with slits as guides.
Put hand between steel bar and plastic skin, ( don't be afraid to pull hard on the skin, it will go back!) unclip the sensor from the housing and push in from the outside, (towards the inside of the bumper skin) you will find it easier to see what you are doing with someone with a torch helping you.
Now you need to remove the housing. This is done by pushing the clip inside the housing from the outside of the bumper skin and push the housing out (towards the outside of the bumper skin).
You will need to turn each sensor housing 75 degrees away from the tow hitch. Mark where the guide slots will need to be and cut new slots for the new position of the housing.
Replace the housings in new position, push the sensors back into the housings.
Replace bumper skin screws.
I unclipped the bumper but couldn't easily get the sensors unclipped. Given I will need to remove the bumper entirely anyway for a rear wheel carrier (hopefully this weekend) I decided to leave it and do the hitch and carrier as one job.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic10853-375.html
gghaggis
7th May 2009, 10:06 AM
Slightly off-topic, but apparently the revised tow hitch for the D4 (which sits higher) will be a retro-fit for the D3. Should be of interest to people as Land Rover Australia are now requesting dealers to note any "non-genuine" fitted accessories. Hmm .......
Cheers,
Gordon
techchook
7th May 2009, 07:41 PM
Slightly off-topic, but apparently the revised tow hitch for the D4 (which sits higher) will be a retro-fit for the D3. Should be of interest to people as Land Rover Australia are now requesting dealers to note any "non-genuine" fitted accessories. Hmm .......
Cheers,
Gordon
Gordon, I hope they do. maybe then they will get some ideas to fix some ridiculous oversights like:
1. the tow hitch weight rating at 750kg for off road...
2. 84 Lt fuel tank...
3. underbody spare tyre...
to name a few
rmp
7th May 2009, 07:58 PM
Don't hold your breath. Those are disadvantages only for offroaders like ourselves and we aren't sufficiently a large market to worry about. We'd buy the car anyway and fix it. The 750kg rating for offroad; well LR actually give an offroad rating, try finding that for other manufacturers. Some, like the underbody spare, are actually an advantage for most customers. 82L (diesel size) is fne around town in a stock D3. Loaded and accessories in the sandy outback it's small though.
CaverD3
7th May 2009, 08:47 PM
The new LR hitch is slightly higher and further back than the existing plough.
It will allow you to remove the spare tyre without removing the hitch.
I saw the drawings for it and it will only improve the departure angle by just over a degree.
LR cannot do any better as it would be outside the design paremeters set by LR. They would have to get it approved and LR would have to re-tesrt and re-calebrate and re-test the elecronics to suit.
Aust (and SA) is really the only place it is a problem and we are too small a market for them to make any major changes.
The answer the question about the sensors.
They can be adjusted by rotating the sensors away from the hitch.
Check:
DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Towing Hitch (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic10853.html?highlight=towing+hitch)
You have to pull the bumper out to get at the rear of the sensors.
JAMS
7th May 2009, 10:11 PM
Thanks all
I will try the cut down stick on protectors for now
techchook
8th May 2009, 07:01 AM
Thanks all
I will try the cut down stick on protectors for now
I was trying all sorts of odd sods last night and lost patience... what sort of protector will you try? Dont tell the missus, but one of her tupperware containers doesn't have a lid any more... I have tried cutting down a CD - it's ok it was the wiggles.... I guess it will be me and the car pretty soon, after alienating the kids and the wife in one fell swoop...
Don't hold your breath. Those are disadvantages only for offroaders like ourselves and we aren't sufficiently a large market to worry about. We'd buy the car anyway and fix it. The 750kg rating for offroad; well LR actually give an offroad rating, try finding that for other manufacturers. Some, like the underbody spare, are actually an advantage for most customers. 82L (diesel size) is fne around town in a stock D3. Loaded and accessories in the sandy outback it's small though.
All too true rmp! admittedly, it does look neater on the road without the spare on the back, but it wont stop me from putting two there, once I get my ext range tank.
Caver, any word on affecting warranty with these mods? insurance would only be an issue if we upset the dynamics of the vehicle and it could be attributed to causing an issue.
rmp
8th May 2009, 07:09 AM
In general, modifications to a 4WD only affect the warranty when the modification affects the part in question. A long-range tank fitment won't affect warranty except for where it has modified the factory fittings. A spare wheel carrier won't affect warranty as such, but if the weight cracks the rear chassis members don't expect to claim. Dynamics; different story, the car must be roadworthy and each state has definitons about that. If the car is roadworthy, as it really roadworthy to the letter of the law, not you looking at it saying "she'll be right", then you're insured. Maybe not covered by warranty. Two different points.
CaverD3
8th May 2009, 07:53 AM
As said should not affect the warranty unless it ca be attributed to the part.
The experience has been with the hitch that it does not affect the handling as long as the download on the bar is within the spec. (the front can get light) LR just have specific positioning within which the tow ball should be. The Mitch hitch is just outside them by the time you have the draw bar in.
Check out some other vehicles and you will find the tow ball a lot further out.
The hitch is fully tested and rated and comlies with all ADRs so insurance is not affected, which was why you shouldn't make your own.
techchook
8th May 2009, 09:22 AM
rmp/ caver, thanks gents. appreciate your input and advice.
gps-au
8th May 2009, 09:42 AM
f the car is roadworthy, as it really roadworthy to the letter of the law, not you looking at it saying "she'll be right", then you're insured.
Reminds me of being pulled over by Qld Transport in the mid '90's on the gold coast (they were doing everyone !) The inspector wanted to put my troopie off the road due the Kaymar rear bar carrier partially blocking the right rear tail light assembly. Funny how 3 days before the vehicle had just got new Qld rego (ex-NSW) and had a Qld transport mechanical inspection (remember an 11 seat is a bus) and been over the QLD transport pits for a full inspection and had passed. So even within a state they will argue.
But as long as any major accessories/modifcations are on your insurance its covered there (you have revealed !).
shining
3rd November 2009, 10:01 PM
Hi TechChook,
I sure that you solved this by now but I just used round 19mm x 4mm black rubber adhesive protectors from the hardware (they stick out a bit but aren't noticable...the hitch is much larger!!) . They come in a sheet of six .. (cheap and cheerful). My bumper is black so there is no colour coding issues and they may be available in clear too. Cut in half with sidecutters..they are a perfect fit and seem to work a treat. I will be testing tomorrow with a "volunteer from the audience". I am not sure if the adhesive will fail in time but it is a 30 second job to replace.
Cheers,
Steve
BTW... Have you received your techno trousers yet? They're from NASA!:D:D you must be an "ardman"
CaverD3
4th November 2009, 10:10 AM
You are better off rotating the sensors as they then still work. Covering the centre ones will leave a gap.
shining
4th November 2009, 05:10 PM
I have only covered the inside half of the two sensors closest to the hitch. Their coverage should be normal for the remainder their field. I do not know exactly what the shape of their field looks like but it seemed to work OK this afternoon it when I used No1 son as an obstacle (for testing purposes only - no teenagers were harmed in this experiment).
Am I right in assuming their field is cone shaped?
Cheers,
Steve.
jonesfam
5th November 2009, 01:23 PM
The shape is an oval cone I have been told? Don't know which way up.
Jonesfam
shining
5th November 2009, 01:32 PM
That makes sense... Given the more elegant (and technically correct) solution of rotating the sensors I suspect that it would be a oval in the horizontal plane.
Cheers
Steve.
MitchellBros4x4
16th December 2009, 12:18 PM
That makes sense... Given the more elegant (and technically correct) solution of rotating the sensors I suspect that it would be a oval in the horizontal plane.
Cheers
Steve.
Shining, You are correct however, I cannot tell you exactly the dimensions, pitch or range of the sensors. When we tested the sensors, on several vehicles, we got very different outcomes.
Nomad9
17th December 2009, 12:29 AM
CaverD3,
So by your comment if I'm trying to find the offending sensor, the one that is going off all the time due to my rear wheel carrier now being installed, if cover all the sensors and then reveal and fix them one by one would this work? Does covering them over render them "off". I was under the assumption that if I covered them they would be seeing an object and go off anyway. Am I understanding what you say correctly?
shining
17th December 2009, 08:04 AM
Hi Nomad9,
The sensor is "blinded" if there is no air-gap between the sensor and the covering. I am not sure how thick the cover needs to be to be effective. Mine are 3-4mm thick 19mm dia self adhesive rubber chair leg stoppers and work OK. I have covered the inside half of the two inside sensors so that my Mitch Hitch does not set them off.
Cheers
Steve.
CaverD3
17th December 2009, 09:49 AM
Not the method i used but yes self adhesive closed foam tape will work to stop the sensor. I believe some have covered the top of the sensor only to stop wheel carrier setting it off.
MitchellBros4x4
22nd December 2009, 07:51 AM
Hello all,
Just to let you know that Mr Sutherland (the guinea pig) has graciously allowed us to trial fit our tow hitch to his D4.
Woo Hoo it fits
The only thing we have had to do is to gently die grind some of the excess casting material left on the inside of the recovery eyelet.
The recovery eyelet seems to be substantially wider, which is good news for the longevity of our beautiful taper lock bush.
We are also fitting a kaymar rear bar to it in early January and will keep you updated.
Aaron Mitchell
Bushwanderer
22nd December 2009, 01:58 PM
That's good news Aaron, as I have, today, recommended the "Mitch Hitch" to a D4 owner.:o
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