Troublesome TD5

[Benny_IIA]

Hi Guys,
I have just fitted a new/secondhand engine to my Defender. However it refuses to start. I was wondering if anyone could offer some hands on help. The vehicle is at Corinda in Brisbane and is physically easy to work on as the front guards are off. I am happy to pay any associated costs.
Cheers Ben.

[matt39788]

Here are some things you may wanna check.

Did you get an ECU with the engine or are you using the one of your old motor, as it may be from a later model which has a different ECU fitted, earlier were solid state and later were flashable with different injectors etc. And I have heard you need to punch some codes into the ecu's when you change them over it's just not a matter of plugging a new one in. I would call TRS in Adelade they are quite helpful with things like this

[Benny_IIA]

The motor came with a ecu, but being from the wreckers you never know if it is the correct one.

The motor is a 99 model so it is a early td5.


Ben

[Graeme]

Is the replacement engine/ecu from a Defender or Disco? If from a Disco it will be expecting to communicate with the BCU (body ecu) and immobiliser.
I would use the original ecu unless you know the replacement ecu is from a Defender. The original will require the injector codes to be corrected but it will still run in the meantime. The injector types should be the same as from your signature your original is a 2000 model - still an eu2 engine.

[Benny_IIA]

Thanks, I will change over to the original ECU.
The other problem I have encountered is that the middle injector has a smaller size spring and fitted with a green collar on top. I subsequently replaced this injector with one from the original motor (which has five injectors that are all the same including spring size) however the bore filled up with fuel when I cranked it over. Any ideas.
Thanks Ben.

[Benny_IIA]

changed the ecu but still no change,:confused::confused:



ben

[stevo]

Have you had any luck yet?? I am about 20 minutes from you and have a rova com lite that may give some info on the problem and fire the injectors manaully to see if they are working. checked the position sensor on the bell housing may have unplugged with movement??

[Benny_IIA]

Have you had any luck yet?? I am about 20 minutes from you and have a rova com lite that may give some info on the problem and fire the injectors manaully to see if they are working. checked the position sensor on the bell housing may have unplugged with movement??


Hey stevo,

No luck, any help would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers Ben.

[stevo]

also they can take alot of cranking to get the air out of the injector fuel circuit

[rangieman]

If you have changed injectors this could be your problem as the injectors are matched to the ecu if i remember correctly:cool:

[Graeme]

also they can take alot of cranking to get the air out of the injector fuel circuit
Cranking does nothing towards getting air out of the injector lines as its all done by the pump. The injector spill valves are open by default so all air will be purged without the motor turning over. It may take several ignition cycles though as the ecu stops the pump after 30 seconds (IIRC).

The engine will still run with wrong injector codes. If injector codes have been totally cleared the ecu will limit revs to 3,000 rpm.

[Benny_IIA]

Thanks Graeme, point taken in relation to the air. I will continue to try starting it this week. The fuel pump seems to be making some strange noises though.
If you remove the injectors from the motor does it cause all the fuel in the head to drain into the nearest bore?

If I have no joy Stevo has kindly offered to come over home with his ecu program and other landy bits on the weekend.

Cheers Steve.

[Graeme]

Fuel will definitely go into the cylinder if an injector is removed, and from there into the sump to dilute the oil! The seal under the injector should be replaced whenever an injector is reinstalled to prevent fuel leakage.

Nanocom would be very useful for checking the afore-mentioned crankshaft position sensor operation as that is the only critical sensor. Nanocom cannot check fuel pressure, but as you have some fuel getting to a removed injector, it should be enough to run. Even a dud throttle sensor wont stop it from starting and idling.

Other than that, it has to have enough compression, which can be compromised if the oil has been allowed to drain from the valve lash adjusters (similar to hydraulic lifters). I've not heard of this actually happening but there is a warning in the workshop manual about storing lash adjusters upright to prevent this and if the engine has been upside down for some time then maybe it could happen.

Hopefully its just something simple.

[Benny_IIA]

Fuel will definitely go into the cylinder if an injector is removed, and from there into the sump to dilute the oil! The seal under the injector should be replaced whenever an injector is reinstalled to prevent fuel leakage.

Nanocom would be very useful for checking the afore-mentioned crankshaft position sensor operation as that is the only critical sensor. Nanocom cannot check fuel pressure, but as you have some fuel getting to a removed injector, it should be enough to run. Even a dud throttle sensor wont stop it from starting and idling.

Other than that, it has to have enough compression, which can be compromised if the oil has been allowed to drain from the valve lash adjusters (similar to hydraulic lifters). I've not heard of this actually happening but there is a warning in the workshop manual about storing lash adjusters upright to prevent this and if the engine has been upside down for some time then maybe it could happen.

Hopefully its just something simple.

Thanks Graeme,
Engine was delivered on it's side from Sydney and leaked engine oil. If oil has leaked from the lash adjusters is it possible to access them in order to top them up or attend to.
I shall replace the copper washers on the bottom of the injectors also.

Regards Steve.

[DEFENDERZOOK]

there is a way to purge the fuel system on a Td5........


to get the air out.......press the throttle flat to the floor........
then switch on the ignition and crank the engine.......this will purge the injectors to get all the air out.......


DO NOT DO THIS if everything is working fine as there is a strong chance you may hydraulic the engine........

[Psimpson7]

The proedure for bleeding is actually:

Turn ignition to position 2 for 30 seconds.

turn off ignition.

Turn ignition to position 2 and repeat 6 times in total.

floor throttle

Start cranking, and as soon as its is cranking on all 5 cylinders bring the pedal back to 50%

If it fails to start repeat entire process

Dont crank for more than 20 seconds at one time.

If you do this entire process when the car is fueled normally you will flood it.

[Benny_IIA]

Thanks for the help guys, will give this a go and see if i can get it to fire.:angel:



Ben........