carby over haul

[2_door]

guys

I think the time has come where my dual carbs need an overhaul. They seem fine one day and the next they are playing up with flat spots, back fires etc. JC has had a look at them and there doesnt appear to be anything majorly wrong with them. When they are playing up, a little choke seems to correct them and they are fine so I am thinking its more of a fuel issue than an electric problem :eek:

So I am thinking that maybe they just need an overhaul. So my questions are

1. is there such a thing as an 'overhaul kit' and if so, how much and what comes in the kit

2. is it a DIY type of kit ie pull apart, fit new rubbers, needles etc and put back together

3. any advice from anyone who has done this before. I havent delved into dual carbs before on a LR so any advice appreciated.

thanks in advance :D

[discopete]

Hey Mark,
the carbs on the green 2 door might solve your problems.

Pete

[PhilipA]

My experience is from a LOOONG time ago but it should still be the same.
The kit usually has everything but a new fuel needle and main jet.
These have to be bought separately.
You should perhaps check the diaphragms first. This entails only undoing 4 screws at the top and looking in.
Regards Philip A

[Brute]

Hi Mark,

I re-sealed my carbies a couple of years ago.
I cant remember if the kits came from repco or coventries but the kit comes with all seals a new diaphragm and i`m pretty sure it had instructions.
You will need two kits obviously and if i remember correctly they were only about 35bucks each

Ian

[Brute]

if you get a bit more power when you give it some choke it might be the dizzy back plate thats worn. I had dramas years ago in UK with a V8 lightweight. If you give it some choke it was like a turbo kicking in. The motor had Su`s and i tried about 3 sets with no difference then changed the dizzy and the problem was solved!

Ian

[2_door]

Thanks Ian.

It only needs the choke pulled out about a quarter of an inch and its not like extra power, i just stops the bloody thing from misfiring/fluttering. Its more like an intermittent and brief stall where theres a sudden loss of power for a split second and then it comes good :eek: very weird

[Blknight.aus]

check your manifold vac, dizzy vac advance and the points plate.

[2_door]

check your manifold vac, dizzy vac advance and the points plate.

yep, they're all there ;)

what should I be looking for specifically. We have already checked for vaccuum leaks (none found) but what should I look for on the points plate as mine has electronic ignition.

thanks in advance

[mike 90 RR]

what should I look for on the points plate as mine has electronic ignition.

Suck on the hose to the vacuum advance unit, to make sure the diaphram is OK
Make sure the advance plate is twisting OK (watch the plate move when sucking diaphram)
Wiggle the rotor button for play / Check for not worn
Take rotor button off / check shaft for play (wiggle it) // Watch, look at the air gap between the "star rotor" and the "pickup" (under the clear cap)
Lube the advance plate / Check spring tension (smooth, not stuck)
Check Dizzy cap for condition / burnt lobes / hair line cracks

Then .... Put a timing light on / check for any "variance" in timing mark position on the Harmonic balancer

Mike
:)

[Brute]

The plate that the points or sensor fix to gets worn, if you grab it with your finger and thumb and it feels loose and moves around it could be giving problems as it will effect the vacuum advance and the timing will keep changing. There is an ad in the UK landy mags for a guy who rebuilds dizzy`s but i dont know if any body does over here.
Ian

[HangOver]

1. is there such a thing as an 'overhaul kit' and if so, how much and what comes in the kit

2. is it a DIY type of kit ie pull apart, fit new rubbers, needles etc and put back together

3. any advice from anyone who has done this before. I havent delved into dual carbs before on a LR so any advice appreciated.

thanks in advance :D

1. yes, cant remember cost but it comes with, (from memory so check) all gaskets, rubber bits n pieces, I thought they also had needle but could be wrong.

2. yes, DIY with "basic" instructions

3. PITA lol. the needle seat, (i think thats what its called?) needs to be pressed in so you need a hydraulic press. very fiddly but not so hard. if you use any sort of solvent cleaner/degreaser make sure it wont react with the
alloys. absolute PITA getting them on/off the manifold. I had to heat and bend a spaner 90 degrees you'll see why when you unbolt them.
Take photos at every stage so you know exactly how they go back together.
Good luck !