Price check - '57 86

[dreamin']

Greetings all - my first post on this site so hope I get the protocols right.

I have been invited to make an offer on a SI that I have been eyeing off for some time (my first), and need to come up with a bid that is realistic for me (considering further costs) and fair to the current (elderly) owner.

Hoping someone can help with prices of similar recent purchases or sales.

Some details:

86 inch hardtop - very complete, original motor, rear bench seats
am told it is 1957 build - have not seen plates to verify
was running when parked in current position (outside) 7? years ago but has not been started for some years
panels straight
haven't been under to check for rust - ext appears OK but may be rust under heavy paint job - particularly around b/head vents
appears to have been a road and camping vehicle - not paddock basher or workhorse
My aim would be to get it back on the road for weekend use, maybe more full restoration in the longer term - not sitting under a tree like it is now.

Any advice on ballpark price, and what might push it up or down, greatly appreciated. Hoping I can at least make a start on a very tight budget.

Cheers

Dreamin'

[JDNSW]

For this sort of vehicle price depends entirely on condition, unless there is something special about it (such as previous owner, first of, last of etc), and it is very difficult to even guess on the information you give. The GFC also makes any prices very uncertain.

Having given this preamble, let's think about it.

Minimum price is set by scrap value, and this is perhaps as high as $500. If the panels are straight, parts value can be higher, maybe $750.

As a going vehicle, the problem is it is not going. You have to determine how close to going it is. If it has been standing in the open for that long, you can assume at least four new tyres, a net battery and overhaul brake hydraulics.

Beyond that the critical things are rust and engine. If the engine turns - should have a crankhandle - there is a reasonable chance it won't take major wallet surgery.

Rust - the key areas are the bulkhead, particularly round the vents, and the chassis - look particularly at the rear crossmember and outriggers where mud off the wheels hit and accumulate, particularly the hole in the outrigger where the pedal pushrods go.

If the engine will not turn or there is enough rust to penetrate either the bulkhead or chassis, you are looking at a lot of work and expense - no more than $500 in my view.

If this checks out OK, look for other significant expense items like a rusted out or bodged exhaust, bodged wiring, upholstery that needs replacing. Take the lid off the fuel tank under the driver's seat, pull the filler tube out (a slight turn allows it to be fully removed) and have a look with a torch. Look for more than 50mm play on the steering wheel. Jack up each front wheel and check for being able to rock it vertically (should be no movement, but less than 5mm at the tyre tread is acceptable.

If there are no problems from these checks, it could be worth as much as $1200, perhaps even $1500. Deduct from these figures guesses of costs to rectify the sort of problem in the last paragraph. Remember that it will be worth no more than perhaps $3000 (probably even less) running, registered, and unrestored, and you probably have missed something that may be expensive!


Hope this helps! The more examination you can do before making an offer (even to the extent of supplying a battery and fuel and see what works) the less uncertainty you have.

John

[chazza]

Check also that the engine number and chassis number match the numbers on the bukhead I.D. plate. A re-engine, especially with the wrong type of engine, significantly lowers the value.

Wear your worst clothes, arm yourself with a thin screwdriver, put your safety specs on and probe every part of the chassis underneath the car and around the bulkhead looking for rust. Inspect the leaf springs for: sagging; swelling and general wear.

If rust is bad I agree with John - scrap value only, is a fair price. Given the number of un-rusty S1's I have seen discovered by members on the net, I would suggest that there will be something better around if the owner is being unrealistic.

Good luck; hope it works out well for you!

Cheers Charlie

[dreamin']

Many thanks, John and Charlie

Will likely have a chance to probe further this weekend - will take your lists with me.

Cheers

[dreamin']

PS to last week's enquiries - I got it!

Went out today and spent a happy couple of hours poking around with a screwdriver and crankhandle, as suggested, and ended up closing the deal at the lower end of the suggested range. Lots of work ahead but pretty happy with my day.

Will try to work out how to get some photos up, if anyone's interested.

In the meantime, the plate inside say's its Car No. 57661371. Engine number is slightly different but will need to check again when I pick it up next w/end.

Thanks again for the advice - hoping there's more where that came from as the job list is pretty long just from today's inspection, esp re suspension, brakes and minor chassis/bulkhead repairs.

Pics soon (I hope)

Cheers

[dreamin']

Here goes

15568

15569

15570

15571

15572

[chazza]

I like the steering wheel and indicator switch :D

[dreamin']

Chazza you were right about the springs - sagging, swelling and general wear! I jacked the front clear off the ground and they didn't move. Steering good and tight though and no slop when I jiggled the wheels.

[spudboy]

Doesn't look too bad at all :D

There goes your weekends for the next 2 or 3 years.....

Congrats on the purchase.

[Sleepy]

Looks good dreamin'. Congrats. Keep us posted!

[chazza]

Chazza you were right about the springs - sagging, swelling and general wear! I jacked the front clear off the ground and they didn't move. Steering good and tight though and no slop when I jiggled the wheels.

Make sure you grease, or oil the new ones.

Many people don't because they fear that it will attract grit and wear the springs but the reality is that dry springs wear anyway and give a harsh ride. In any case oily springs can be washed with degreaser and a jet of water and re-oiled as required.

The improvement in ride quality is well worth it - I transformed the ride on the old SES Landloser by doing this, despite the howls of derision from all of the "experts". It almost became a pleasure to drive it, apart from the dreadful seats; lousy gearbox and poor starting. :(

Give me a Rover any day! :D