The best of everything - Which engine/gearbox/transfer case is best?

[Shonky]

Grover's thread in the Series III section rekindled a question I have been thinking of posting for some time... ;)

Over the 14 odd years the Series II/IIA was on the market, there was an ongoing tradition of progressive development. Occasionally it seems that this went astray, or that the modifications improved one area at the expense of the other.

This is a largely opinion based question, but that is what I am after. Your thoughts, on which engine, gearbox and transfer case were the best of their class.

Basically, if you could build the ideal Series Land Rover drive train, what would you use on it? :)

Discuss...

[JDNSW]

As with any such "best", the first thing is to agree how to define "best"!

I would probably use the four cylinder petrol motor, on the basis of driveability, durability and general ruggedness. For smoothness, the five bearing motor would be preferred, but it was not available until very late Series 3, and there are very few in Australia. The 8:1 CR is preferred. I would probably prefer the Zenith Carburetter, but any of the ones fitted are acceptable.

Gearbox - definitely late S2a. Lower low range is achievable by fitting its transfer case with gears from the suffix B box, and I would do this.

Rear axle - without a doubt, in a lwb, salisbury, although these were only optional on late S2a.

John

[isuzurover]

Basically, if you could build the ideal Series Land Rover drive train, what would you use on it? :)


That's easy:
4BD1(+aftermarket T) mated to an LT95. (the stage 1 is still a series III ;) )

But if you are talking 4/6cyl stuff... I think I have the optimal drivetrain using those bits in my IIA:
Late model (1979) 2.25D with tweaks
IIA box with late model intyernals (strongest layshaft etc)
IIA t-case with suffix B gears (49:1 first low).
Stage 1 front axle
Salisbury rear axle

[Blknight.aus]

define best?

I pretty much agress with what isuzu rover said about the series gear but it depends on what you value most when you define best.

[JDNSW]

define best?

I pretty much agress with what isuzu rover said about the series gear but it depends on what you value most when you define best.

Since it was in the 2/2a section I discounted the Stage 1!

And I do have problems with some of the changes from S2a to S3.

John

[Shonky]

As I said, "best" is based on your opinion. eg: do you like a certain box for strength, or another for better ratios?

I intentionally left it open ended to get broad input. ;)

If you really want to focus on something, go for strength and longevity. :)

[Blknight.aus]

ok Best by my opinion.

a IIa LWB chassis/body with the military lift mods but dont put the military springs in
a late IIa diesel but preferabely one of the late III diesels (not the isuzu) but not the 5 main crank version (parts can be hard to get)
a c or d suffix IIA main box
a SIII tcase (the one with the larger Idler shaft)
8ha down the back
stock rover diff up the front

put the brakes in from a very late series III/stage 1 to get the wider shoes and the better dual circut setup but loose the booster unless you want to put in a vacuum pump of some kind DONT use the vac generator that goes on the inlet.

This gives you the most mechanically robust set from the drive line side of things, a good height for cross country work without the harsh stiffness when lightly loaded. The upgraded brakes are worth having as the older ones are a one shot deal, blow one part and you loose the lot.

[JDNSW]

ok Best by my opinion.

a IIa LWB chassis/body with the military lift mods but dont put the military springs in
a late IIa diesel but preferabely one of the late III diesels (not the isuzu) but not the 5 main crank version (parts can be hard to get)
a c or d suffix IIA main box
a SIII tcase (the one with the larger Idler shaft)
8ha down the back
stock rover diff up the front

put the brakes in from a very late series III/stage 1 to get the wider shoes and the better dual circut setup but loose the booster unless you want to put in a vacuum pump of some kind DONT use the vac generator that goes on the inlet.

This gives you the most mechanically robust set from the drive line side of things, a good height for cross country work without the harsh stiffness when lightly loaded. The upgraded brakes are worth having as the older ones are a one shot deal, blow one part and you loose the lot.

You don't need an S3 transfer case - idler shaft size increased between suffix A & B in the 2a, part number of suffix B on shaft is the same as S3 part number.

Just make sure you have a suffix B on T/C.

John

[Blknight.aus]

I always thought the B suffix ment it was a sIII, the only B's ive seen on tcases were mated to sIII boxes...

Happy to be wrong on that one.

[JDNSW]

I always thought the B suffix ment it was a sIII, the only B's ive seen on tcases were mated to sIII boxes...

Happy to be wrong on that one.

I think they started the alphabet again with Series 3 - Series 2 suffixes went at least to 'C', and a look at the parts books confirms this, although the actual transfer case seems not to have changed during S3 production, but I'll bet the suffix changed to match the gearbox.

John

[Blknight.aus]

thats the rub, while Ive got the workshop manuals I dont got parts books.

[JDNSW]

Parts books are a valuable complement to the Workshop manual, quite apart from their intended purpose of giving parts numbers - they have a lot more pictures than the workshop manual, and show in many cases how things go together (or come apart) better than the workshop manual, especially for amateurs like myself.

John

[Blknight.aus]

yeah, sometimes.....

wait till they start contradicting each other....

[JDNSW]

yeah, sometimes.....

wait till they start contradicting each other....


..... and both are different from the lump of metal in front of you!

John