paint jobs in a military style-ie

[lardy]

hi all,
my paint on the deefer is a little bit crap, i was thinking about giving it a refresh the defender decal is missing on one side the panels have a few dings which i see no point repairing if i am going to keep this truck and possibly re-build it when the bulkhead falls out (like they do) so i was going to get a couple of 10ltr cans of british army drab olive green and do it british army style...which i understand to be knocked back cellulose hand painted ...i understand knocking the paint back loses the paint marks and have heard they use rollers to apply the paint (might be one for you dave if you do body work in your job!)
the point of this is when i go bush bashing scraps and the bruising of the panels will not be such an issue as it would be easily repaired
i take it i would have to strip the paint of the panels first and etch the stripped panels ...does etch primer go with cellulose i seem to think not but would appreciate any input with this ...thanks in advance andy

[Cliffy]

I believe you can apply some kind of "stopper" that allows you paint over the existing paint without it reacting. Word of advice, my mate (who just painted my Lightweight rims) had paint left over from an army contract painting ***** and it's 2 pac. He has all the paint codes for Auscam and Olive that's currently used. He even had the anti infra red additive in it. He's an industrial painter and he's worked with Landies alot in the past so I can hook you up if you wish?!

[lardy]

I believe you can apply some kind of "stopper" that allows you paint over the existing paint without it reacting. Word of advice, my mate (who just painted my Lightweight rims) had paint left over from an army contract painting ***** and it's 2 pac. He has all the paint codes for Auscam and Olive that's currently used. He even had the anti infra red additive in it. He's an industrial painter and he's worked with Landies alot in the past so I can hook you up if you wish?!

cheers bud might be worth a go but i kinda have a hankering for the british army olive green seems a different shade if you ask me.
like i say might be worth a yarn cos he would be in the know, just the lacquer on the wings is seperating and there is that nice crackle effect on the off side front door and i reckon it would make it heaps more tidy looking.
i would appreciate it if you could hook us up and maybe i could shout you a beer at some point cheers andy

[Phoenix]

REMLR is your friend ;)

Australian Army Vehicle Colour Schemes and Paint -REMLR (http://www.remlr.com/paint.html)

the protec paint there is normal (ish) paint that is very easy to paint with, and quite cheap. pretty hardy as well, and heat, oil and a heap of stuff resistant. you can get a few colours as well as detailed on that page ;)

[juddy]

Restore it to its proper colour blue....






hi all,
my paint on the deefer is a little bit crap, i was thinking about giving it a refresh the defender decal is missing on one side the panels have a few dings which i see no point repairing if i am going to keep this truck and possibly re-build it when the bulkhead falls out (like they do) so i was going to get a couple of 10ltr cans of british army drab olive green and do it british army style...which i understand to be knocked back cellulose hand painted ...i understand knocking the paint back loses the paint marks and have heard they use rollers to apply the paint (might be one for you dave if you do body work in your job!)
the point of this is when i go bush bashing scraps and the bruising of the panels will not be such an issue as it would be easily repaired
i take it i would have to strip the paint of the panels first and etch the stripped panels ...does etch primer go with cellulose i seem to think not but would appreciate any input with this ...thanks in advance andy

[Mick-Kelly]

The colour your after is NATO green. Most places can knock it up. Satin gives a better finish than mat. The mat goes ugly very quickly. I tried the mat on the Lightweight but will be using satin when i do it properly.

[lardy]

Restore it to its proper colour blue....

can't do that i would be worried about the bloody paint all the while i would prefer the tough love approach protection, easy to repair scuffs and practable for every day

[lardy]

The colour your after is NATO green. Most places can knock it up. Satin gives a better finish than mat. The mat goes ugly very quickly. I tried the mat on the Lightweight but will be using satin when i do it properly.

the colour the Australian army use appears to be an olive green that is on the edge of khaki with a touch of gold, whereas british army green seem's to be an altogether more solid colour me thinks any view on that ?

[lardy]

REMLR is your friend ;)

Australian Army Vehicle Colour Schemes and Paint -REMLR (http://www.remlr.com/paint.html)

the protec paint there is normal (ish) paint that is very easy to paint with, and quite cheap. pretty hardy as well, and heat, oil and a heap of stuff resistant. you can get a few colours as well as detailed on that page ;)

as i thought Australian green is different :( wouldn't go dpm just plain green, but thanks for the link, out of interest was the red introduced on the basis of the pink panthers does it disappear on the horizon the same way

[Cliffy]

You're light Lardy, the British Olive (NATO) is darker.
The rims I just had painted are lighter in colour to the original pommy green on my Lightweight.
No matter, my mate can get what-ever (Protec paint too) and he should look after you. OR I can do the talking and get paint for both of us as I will be repainting my Lightweight back to green (Satin, yes Mick) and will have to think about putting the black disruptive pattern back on as I don't want to attract too much unwanted attention plus my look bad when I rock up down at the range.:nazilock:

[303gunner]

out of interest was the red introduced on the basis of the pink panthers does it disappear on the horizon the same way
The "Red" has been an Australian Cam colour since WW2 when it was known as Terracotta. It was applied on vehicles in the NT and Nth WA. It is particularly effective in the oxide-rich soils that are a feature of the areas that Norforce patrol:

[Newbs-IIA]

You shouldn't need a couple of 10L drums either haha. I have used the Australian Olive Drab from Protec and it needs to be thinned at least 40-45% to apply easily otherwise it will clog your gun. Don't know about the pommy stuff but i assume it would be the same viscosity/style of paint. I did one whole coat (including interior of cab) with about 2.5L of paint which was then thinned about 45%. This was done on my Series IIA LWB (no roof). It is very forgiving and easy to paint once you have thinned it properly ;)

Good luck with it

[lardy]

You're light Lardy, the British Olive (NATO) is darker.
The rims I just had painted are lighter in colour to the original pommy green on my Lightweight.
No matter, my mate can get what-ever (Protec paint too) and he should look after you. OR I can do the talking and get paint for both of us as I will be repainting my Lightweight back to green (Satin, yes Mick) and will have to think about putting the black disruptive pattern back on as I don't want to attract too much unwanted attention plus my look bad when I rock up down at the range.:nazilock:

That will be great if you could Cliffy, newbs states a smaller quantity required ...hey Cliffy do you know anything about the british army approach of rolling on paint as they did for the defender in the matt "drab olive green" i know its a technique of "knocking it back" and basically applying it.
And you mentioned a "stopper" previously interested in that if it doesn't effect longevitey great.
my only concern with gunning the stuff on is stripping all the external furniture grrr! and i dont have a workshop big enough to do the job.
Give me a shout when you get some more info regards andy

[Newbs-IIA]

The protec paint used by the army and available off the shelf (the one i used) is an enamel, not two pack. I just gave the body of mine a good sand as the old paint was very oxidised, etch primed any patches of bare metal and sprayed the paint on with about 45% thinned.

Hope this helps, don't know about painting enamel over acrylic or two pack or whatever the standard paint it.

[lardy]

The protec paint used by the army and available off the shelf (the one i used) is an enamel, not two pack. I just gave the body of mine a good sand as the old paint was very oxidised, etch primed any patches of bare metal and sprayed the paint on with about 45% thinned.

Hope this helps, don't know about painting enamel over acrylic or two pack or whatever the standard paint it.

yeah i have no idea what land rover used as paint for defender ?!
but at that time i guess they would have used two pack is my guess but will wait to speak to cliffy's mate who should be in the know cheers andy