sound proofing

[Hans W]

Having taken our new 110 on its first trip of the bitumen we found the noise of stones and the likes coming of the rear tires and hitting the bodywork quite deafening and annoying.
I do want to do something about it just wondering if anybody else has found a solution.

[Offender90]

various solutionsa exist, with varying degrees of success. Doing a search on soundproofing a defender should turn up a few posts. If you more specific questions, just ask.

Good luck

Bojan

[Sprint]

there are a couple of options for a spray-on rubberised sound deadening coating for under wheelarches, etc

buggered if i can remember what its called tho

[stig0000]

Having taken our new 110 on its first trip of the bitumen we found the noise of stones and the likes coming of the rear tires and hitting the bodywork quite deafening and annoying.
I do want to do something about it just wondering if anybody else has found a solution.


we had the same thing when we got ours, what dad did was put panted tar on an a few layers of it, then thin rubber on the inside, with sound proffing ontop of that, an cos we hav a roler draws its all coverd up an it works well, dont hear eny at all,

but with mine there is sound proffing all under the seats dash, doors, floor, so mine is prity qwiet, at 110 you an talk perfictly normal with the radio nicely on,

[LR D4]

G'day HansW

The options I have looked into for my Puma

- Rustproofing and sound deadening By a company called BEAM rustproofing
the company is in perth wa, have a look on there website, they also offer a product called rhino liner which you could get sprayed from the front seats back this will help not only with noise but with dust entry.

-Product called dynamat, might be good for behind the door trims, under seats and any where you want to place it .

- Go out and buy some good rubber floor mats and a load space mat

- Fit front mud flaps these make e difference

Hope this was a help

[Scallops]

I remember asking Opposite Lock if they could fit or suggest any way to dampen stone noise etc in the wheel arches when I first got my Defender. They rolled around laughing and suggested I HTFU. :eek:

I took their advice - it doesn't worry me anymore, so I can recommend 1 spoon full of cement in your cup of tea to cure your "problem". ;)

[EchiDna]

go for a drive in a 4BD1 powered 110... yours will seem like a dream after that...

[land864]

What about the following ideas.

6mm foam aluminium foil faced self adhesive to the floor space ( need to remove seats etc)
Remove internal trims and pack the doors with fibreglass or rockwool.
Spray on gook to all wheel arches.
What is best for engine bay

[Offender90]

Here are a couple of reposts you may find helpful


Here are some notes on sound insulation that you may find useful.

Before I go into details, there are two modes of sound transmission, and one of sound "amplification" The first mode of transmission is airborne and the second structure borne. Ultimately, you must ensure that both are dealt with to get noticable noise reduction in the cabin. In addition the "sound amplification" I'm talking about is the sound reverberation buildup in the cabin, if the cabin is bare / has a lot of exposed metal / glass.

Transmission

Airborne noise is cheaper to deal with of the two, but it is more difficult, given Land Rover's superb door sealing qualities and the multitude of firewall openings behind the trim. However, it should be tackled first.

You'll find this will also help with airconditioning, for those "lucky" enough to have it.

So, before you lay out any insulation on the floor etc, make sure the cabin is well sealed from the the underside (exhaust) and from the engine compartment. This means ensuring all door seals (especially the back door) sit firmly against the door when closed, and that there are no gaps in the seal, especially at the bottom corners, where two different sections of seal meet. As a rule of thumb, if you can see the pavement , it is definately not well sealed!

Secondly, seal all wiring access holes in the firewall. When I say seal, use something like flexible mastic, which will allow movement of the wires without the seal cracking. Make sure the mastic is a skinning type, otherwise you'll end up with a mess. If you're finding that skinning mastic isn't strong enough to hold in place, you could try silicon.

Once you are certain that the cabin is well sealed, you can proceed to insulating the floor to deal with structure borne noise transmission.

Outside noise induces vibration in the floor panels, which then radiate noise into the cabin. The panels will be more efficient at radiating at certain frequencies than at others, depending on the shape, density and rigidity of the panel material. Noise transmission into the cabin will be the worst when the exciting frequency matches the resonant frequency of the panel.

For low frequency engine and exhaust noise, lead sheeting is by far the best. It has a very high density and low rigidity. The critical frequency will be well into the ultrasonic range. If you can line the underside of the car (from either inside or outside) with 1 mm or 2mm lead sheeting, you'll be doing quite well. I'd use a thin foam lining on the underside of the lead so that you don't get metal on metal rattle.

As pointed out earlier, it may be difficult to secure in place - This may have been the reason for lead sheeting with foam on either side mentioned in one of the other threads. I have not gone through the process myself yet, so unfortunately I can't give you too many practical tips. I am an acoustic engineer, however, and have come accross many similar problems in building applications.

Reverberation

Many of the older Defenders / countys and series vehicles have a lot of bare metal within the cabin (in addition to all the glass), so the cabin is highly reverberant (sound bouncing around for a long time, because there is little to absorb it). This results in significant increase in noise levels inside the cabin. I recently bought a Defender 90 panelvan with a stright-through exhaust, and next to no floor coverings - I should know!

This is what I've done so far, and what I plan to do.
I've used high density short pile marine carpet with a rubber backing to line the back area, with noticeably improved results. I also plan to line the rear panels with 50mm polyester (or rockwool) batting behind a perforated metal sheet, to help with sound absorption wintin the cabin even more. (admittedly this may be a bit of overkill, but I also think it will improve the looks / practicability of the cargo area.

Also, to dispel a common myth, the foil has no effect on noise transmission. It is acoustically transparent, as it has no weight. Silver foil is a great heat reflector, and it is often found on insulating materials because they serve a dual purpose for insulation of both noise and heat.

Cheers

As for soundproofing the bonnet, see here (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/77737-defender-under-bonnet-soundproofing.html):

Pyrotek is the company you want to go to to get insulation material.

Cheers

Bojan

[philco]

A mate of mine recommended a paint on stuff they use on mercedes cars, called SKS Black stoneguard and anti corrosive compound, can be sprayed on or painted on, its from a company called WURTH, he said it works great, not too expensive either.:BigThumb:

[I Love My Landy!]

[QUOTE=land864;987559]What about the following ideas.

6mm foam aluminium foil faced self adhesive to the floor space

I had a heap of this lying around so this is what i did as well, but just around the top of the footwells and trans tunnel. It stopped a fair bit of noise a little bit of heat too.