TD5, Fuel Pressure Regulator- Remove and Install (18 big offsite Images)

[Blknight.aus]

Changing the TD5 fuel pressure regulator...
First up get your tools lined up.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/110.jpg

minimum

14mm open end spanner
3/8th inch drive 10 mm deep reach socket
3/8th inch drive ratchet


Nice to haves

Torch
1/4 inch driver socket set
14mm pipe spanner
3/8th inch drive 10mm socket
beer

Then check your parts.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/111.jpg

you want to make sure you have both the gasket and the o ring, the regulator and that the regulator is the same as the one on your engine AND the gasket suits it. IF thats all good proceed to read the rest of this thing before you go on and do it if need be print it and keep it near by. First get the bonnet up (off is better), remove the acoustic cover (mines been off for years) and clean your engine
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/112.jpg

Thats not good enough so once more with the degreaser AND the gurney

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/113.jpg

Better. Thats the Fuel pressure regulator and the immediate area Nice and clean. When you replace your regulator you are also supposed to change over the hoses with the ones that come attached to the block. As mine were OK, I had new orings to use AND I was pressed for time I risked it by changing only the block. The hardest hose fitting to get to is

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/114.jpg

that one, the shiney one thats hiding pretty much in the middle of the picture. You need a crows foot 14mm pipe spanner to get that one out. First, remove the engine lifting bracket, dont do like I did and remove the top hose first then realise how much easier it would be if the engine lift bracket wasnt in the way. This also has the benifit of letting you take one of the bolts that holds the bracket (its the same size + type of thread as the regulator) down to the local nut n boltery and get one of the same size to make one of these

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/115.jpg

A guide dowel. In this case made from an m8x1.25 60mm long bolt with a 40mm shank ground on a bench grinder and cleaned up on the linisher. You only really need this if you own a disco or have fingers that are less co-operative with your gray matter and reality than mine. But I digress, with the area clean go a head and remove the engine lifting bracket, disconnect the fuel temp sender conection, push the metal clip intowards the socket and pull gently, if you have strong uncut thumbnails you can do it easily without tools else try a screwdriver.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/116.jpg

then remove the fitting to the top right of the regulator thusly

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/117.jpg
(ignore the fact that I hadnt removed the bracket at this stage it will miraciously vanish for the next pic I promise)

Remove the 2 fittings from the side of the regulator top one first (it has the green shroud over the fitting for the flex hose on the end of the pipe) Be careful not to let the metal tubing turn while you are undoing or tensioning these fittings, this can lead to the flex hose/pipe in the hose dislodging or the oring on the fitting you are undoing being damaged (not a
problem if you are removing but a big hassle when you are putting it back together)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/118.jpg

then using the 3/8th inch drive deep reach 10mm socket and ratchet crack all the mounting bolts off about 1/2 a turn or so, the next pic shows you exactly where to put the deep reach socket to get to the bottom hidden, where the hell is it, bolt.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/119.jpg

then remove all the bolts bar the top right bolt, if you have a guide dowl made up and wish to use it insert it in this (top right) bolts location once you've removed the old regulator

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/120.jpg

And there it is out, be careful when you're extracting the gasket (mine stuck to the head) as the strainer can stick to the o ring which sticks to the gasket. (which is what mine did causing me to nearly loose the strainer into the drain in the washbay.)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/121.jpg

If you're pedantic extract (if it didnt fall out) the strainer, inspect it, clean it in white spirits (metho) and air dry it. If yours fell out, inspect it, replace it if you have to, clean it and then re-install it. In case your luck runs like mine OR your pedantic

this is the hole that the strainer goes in,

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/122.jpg

insert it

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/123.jpg

push it all the way home then install the o ring

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/124.jpg

Slide the 2 bolts in the bottom and top left holes of the new regulator, mount up the gasket using those to bolts to locate it to the regulator then face it up to the head, sliding it over the guiding dowl youve installed if youve needed to. Wind the bolts in 3 turns ONLY then replace the dowel with the remaining bolt, if you dont have the dowel installed just install the last bolt and what you should have should look

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/125.jpg

like that at this stage. Eyeball down the gap (use a torch) to make sure the oring is in place if it looks

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/126.jpg

like that stop work, throw a plastic sheet over the engine and goto bed then when tomorrows hangover subsides continue on. If you can see the oring sitting in the seat behind the gasket continue on tightening the bolts (in stages and in turn) till the gasket is seated and the bolts are done up to 25nm, replace the pipe fittings (in the reverse sequence you took them off) till it looks like

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/05/127.jpg
that.

replace the temp senders harness socket onto the sender plug, install the lifting bracket, (acoustic cover if you're that way inclined, I'm not) and after you put the bonnet back on (which is one of those things that makes a deefer so much better than a disco, bonnet off or on in less than 10 seconds) go and get the engine dirty again.

1hr All told, including cleaning the engine, faffing around with the camera, making the dowel, gurneying the car and packing it all away.

[andrewjohnson]

why did you change the regulator?
did you have low power

[GaryBenno]

No it still seemed to work OK but the mongrels leak deisel down the back of the engine picking up all sorts of crap on the way to end up as a great black stain on the deck. Ok in my garage which is used to Landrover leaks of all types but not welcome on anyones nice new concrete driveway.

[cricket]

Hi Dave ,
Thanks heaps for that,gunna give it a go on sat. will have to keep off the turps on friday night to give my self a bit of a chance though, mines an earler model and the lifting bracket is on the port side top and it only has 2 pipes with snap conectors, good tip with the cleaning , i think i'll put the band aids on the back of my hands before i start ,once again thanks for the info.
cheers Noel:)

[Harold]

Replaced my FPR after studying the various posts on AULRO, I ended up removing the starter motor, as I found access from underneath to be helpful. Also made a couple of tools to make the removal of hoses easier. Silver soldered 12mm Allen keys to split sockets. For the fitting at the front of the motor use a half moon 12mm ring spanner on to the Allen key soldered to the socket. The small bracket that supports the alternator will need to be removed to access the front fitting.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/harold-albums-harold+photo-picture5462-td5-fpr-socket.jpg

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/harold-albums-harold+photo-picture5461-td5-fpr-split-sockets.jpg

[Harold]

still learninghttp://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/harold-albums-harold+photo-picture5466-split-sockets.jpg

[joel0407]

For anyone willing to rebuild the unit rather than buy a new one. I for one can't see the point to replace a perfectly good housing for sake of a leaking part.

So there are 3 house connections and they all screw in. You can pickup the "O" rings at any decent parts shop. They said $2 for the 3 but they only cost me $1.80 as that was the change I had in my pocket.

There is an "O" ring that goes to the block where the wire mesh filter is and a steel gasket. Both of these can be bought direct from Land Rover for less than $10 for both. They would need to be replaced even if you were replacing the whole unit.

The most expensive part is the regulator itself. There is another thread on here that provides links to eBay pages for one for about $48 delivered. Some say this no name one doesn't last, others say it does. I went with a genuine Bosch brand, part number 280160575. From someone else who has used it, they report the pressure of this regulator is 2psi less than the Land Rover reg but as this is only the pressure that feed the injectors and the injectors have there own pumps, it's not an issue. The pressure is only there at idle as well and as the engine speed increases pressure drops after the regulator is fully open further showing the 2psi differance doesn't matter. The Bosch reg cost me $60 but $13 of that was freight becasue I'm in Darwin.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/351.jpg (http://s560.photobucket.com/user/joel0407/media/Disco/480A004C-02F6-4A79-883F-5C1DDA701792_zpsxutpp1sg.jpg.html)

Happy Days