tips for recommissioning

[dreamin']

I'm going to try to get Arfa running again this weekend, after he's been 'asleep' for a few years. Haven't done this before, so gald for any tips.

I'm planning to drain and replace old oil and filter element, remove spark plugs and turn over on the handle to get oil moving around, replace plugs, connect up new battery, fresh fuel in tank and capful down the carb, then try the starter. Does this sound right or am I missing something important?

I know the engine will turn over on the handle. Have thought about putting a little oil in top of cylinders, but not sure if this is right to do.

Any other tips for a 'reawakening'?

Cheers

[JDNSW]

As Series 1 has an electric fuel pump, the fuel in the carburetter should not be needed. However, it might be worth ensuring that it is pumping and that fuel can be drained from the carburetter. (This assumes original engine - I can't remember what Arfa has)

I would also be inclined to remove the fuel filler tube and have a good look in the tank with a torch - if what you see doesn't look too good, removing the drain plug and flushing it out might be a good idea!

When turning the engine over by hand, check that the compression is about the same on each cylinder - might take a few turns to get to this stage. If there is no compression on one cylinder, suspect a stuck valve - remove the rocker covers to check and see if it can be easily freed.

And, of course, make sure the cooling system is full* and no serious leaks.

* Originally it would have specified soft water, but coolant is a good idea.

John

[procrastination inc]

check the radiator is full

replace the fuel in the tank

is there a float bowl drain on the carb? if so open it and leave it open

pour a few ml of diesel down the plug holes

crank it over with the plugs out (on the starter if you like) to get the oil circulating and to check that the fuel is getting to the carb

plugs in, carb drain shut, cap full of fuel as you save, kick him in the guts.

[dreamin']

check the radiator is full


pour a few ml of diesel down the plug holes



Thanks P

Yep - radiator was on my list. Bought some of that flush/cleaner too.

Assume diesel down the plug holes is to wet up dry cylinder/valves -would a spray lubricant do the same job?

D

[dreamin']

Series 1 has an electric fuel pump - I can't remember what Arfa has)

have a good look in the tank with a torch

check that the compression is about the same on each cylinder


John

Thanks John

Arfa has original engine so will listen for electric pump

Fuel tank and it looks clean with no rust and no loose 'bits' in the bottom - a few inches of fuel still there but will drain and refill.

Bought a little bottle of 'lead replacement valve saver' additive, but what octane unleaded should I be putting in - reg or premium?

How should I be checking compression - do I need an instrument for this?

Thanks again

D

[JDNSW]

Thanks John

Arfa has original engine so will listen for electric pump

Fuel tank and it looks clean with no rust and no loose 'bits' in the bottom - a few inches of fuel still there but will drain and refill.

Bought a little bottle of 'lead replacement valve saver' additive, but what octane unleaded should I be putting in - reg or premium?

How should I be checking compression - do I need an instrument for this?

Thanks again

D

Lead replacement is probably not necessary - and with a compression ratio of 6.9:1 it was designed to run on low grade fuel, and standard unleaded is quite OK.

Just crank it over by hand, you will feel the compression, testing the four cylinders in two complete turns. At this stage you don't need to actually measure it. If you don't have a crankhandle, either get one or make (get made) one - they are a simple piece of bent steel - check diameter with the hole in the bumper, you want a crank of about 30cm, and a cross pin 7-8mm diameter. You can do without a sleeve on the handle if you use a glove, or a suitable bit of thin wall pipe will work.

I would remove the main jet carrier on the side of the carburetter (opposite side of the bowl from memory - if it is not clean behind it, expect to have to strip and clean the carburetter - and turn the ignition on to operate the pump until fuel starts to run out - switch off and replace the jet carrier. Switch on again, and the pump should stop clicking in a few (10-20) seconds after the bowl is full. If it doesn't, you have either a stuck needle valve, a faulty pump, or a fuel leak, any of which you need to fix before trying to start. (pump may take a while to suck fuel up from the tank - if it takes longer than about a minute, you have an air leak in the suction line or something under a pump valve, or the screen on the pickup in the tank is gummed up. Don't run the pump continuously for more than three or four minutes hoping to pick up, as it will overheat.

John

[procrastination inc]

low compression engines can't really take advantage of the more expensive premium fuels.

I'd reckon the cheapest unleaded would be fine

[260AC]

low compression engines can't really take advantage of the more expensive premium fuels.

I'd reckon the cheapest unleaded would be fine


Not in my experience,

BP 95 for my 80"s make them run and drive the smoothest.

They were designed to run on 72 octane post war unleaded, hence the really hard valve seats.

You find though especially with the 1.6 you need to advance the static timing quite a lot to account for the high octance fuel compared to what the book says, which is for 72 octane on the early cars, but you just do this on the distributor adjuster and if they start pinking you have gone too far, then just back the advance off a bit.

[chazza]

I agree with 260AC - the best way to test different fuels is to use them over the same roads for a consistently long time e.g. weeks.

There are so many variables which affect fuel consumption, that there is little point listing them but if you keep accurate records by recording: the distance travelled; exact litres used; traffic conditions; air temperature; wind etc., you will have a fair idea after about a month, which fuel if any, performs better.

So far Premium ULP wins hands-down on my tests by as much as 4 or 5 m.p.g. :D

[dennisS1]

Its a series 1 hook up the batter and start her up, any thing under 10 years should befine, over 10 the fuel might be a bit off.
Seriously I would take out the plugs put a little oil down each cylinder and wind over a few times, put back the plugs freshen up the fuel, Test that it pumps up fuel with not to many leaks. Water and check the oil and go for a drive.
Dennis

[series1buff]

One thing nobody has mentioned is the two thin diaphrams in the carby . The accelerator pump and the economy valve ( or more correctly, the power valve ) . Over time , the diaphrams tend to become hard and they lose flexibility .. your car will hesitate as you hit the juice to go. And it will tend to run rich if the economy diaphram is U/S.

Interesting point about the petrol octane .... you learn something new on this forum every day ...
Mike

[dreamin']

... the pump should stop clicking in a few (10-20) seconds after the bowl is full. If it doesn't, you have either a stuck needle valve, a faulty pump, or a fuel leak, any of which you need to fix before trying to start. (pump may take a while to suck fuel up from the tank - if it takes longer than about a minute, you have an air leak in the suction line or something under a pump valve, or the screen on the pickup in the tank is gummed up...



Good progress today - replaced oil and filter, dumped old fuel and flushed tank, new battery and plugs in, head, side and tail lights all work and starter turns over - but no start.

Fuel pump ticks over immediately power is on and seems to come up to pressure(?) and slows then stops within seconds. Starter turns strongly (but slowly) but absolutely no sign of ignition.

Think I'll try to work out what's happening with fuel first - between the pump and the carb - then try to get a spark from each plug lead off the block (avoiding the puddles of fuel).

Is there anything else I should eliminate?

D

[chazza]

If you open the throttle butterfly with the engine turned off and whilst you look down the throat, you should see a squirt of fuel come out. This will indicate whether or not it is a petrol issue. If there is no petrol. it is time to strip and blow out the carburettor with compressed air. If you tip any fuel down the carburettor, be very careful and DO NOT do it while the engine is carnking, or you could end up with severe burns if it backfires. A very small capful is all that is required.

If there is fuel, work backwards from the spark plugs checking for a strong blue spark. With the ignition turned on the contact breakers should emit a very faint spark when opened with a screwdriver, if not inspect the low tension circuit for loose connections or broken wires. Inspect the distributor cap for a sticking or missing carbon brush and that the contacts are clean and not too badly worn; make sure the rotor arm is in good order. Check for a spark from the coil by holding the HT lead close to an earth, whilst someone cranks the engine with the ignition turned on (a wooden holder is advisable to prevent electrocution :eek:) Look for a good blue spark; substitute a coil if you think that may be the problem (not the ballast resistor type).

If you have fuel and spark and it still won't go, check the compression pressures (mine started even though the rings were gummed up and the compression was negligble). Check the valve timing by turning the engine by hand and observing the rockers at the same time - both should be closed when the piston reaches TDC (feel for the little poof of escaping gas getting past your thumb as you hold it over the spark plug hole. It is a surprisingly powerful poof at times and should indicate enough compression to start the engine.

And as final after-thought, did you use choke when trying to start last time?

Cheers Charlie

[dreamin']

...If there is fuel, work backwards from the spark plugs checking for a strong blue spark...


Thanks Chazza

Fuel idefintely OK, at least as far as the carb - but no blue spark.

Faint sparking between contact points opened with a screwdriver, as you suggested, but nothing from spark plug leads or lead from coil.

As you may have gathered, I'm a bit new to electrics, so live in hope I can fix this with an inexpensive replacement part - maybe the coil? Apart from taking the old one in (or even older Lucas model found in the toolbox), is there a particular brand/spec that I should be going for, or avoiding?

The electrics further 'upstream' is a nightmare - tangled, frayed and perished wiring, grommets and ominous loose ends, painted over in places. I will need to sort it all out properly but for now I just want a strong blue spark. If the coil sound like the culprit I'll get one tomorrow.

Thanks again

D

[JDNSW]

.....
Faint sparking between contact points opened with a screwdriver, as you suggested, but nothing from spark plug leads or lead from coil.

As you may have gathered, I'm a bit new to electrics, so live in hope I can fix this with an inexpensive replacement part - maybe the coil? Apart from taking the old one in (or even older Lucas model found in the toolbox), is there a particular brand/spec that I should be going for, or avoiding?.......

When testing the spark by opening the points with a screwdriver, are you making sure the screwdriver does not short the points?

Apart from this, the coil is not necessarily the problem - have a good look at the points - if they are badly burnt, they will stop any significant spark. Similarly, the condenser (capacitor) if faulty will also reduce the spark to very little (and at the same time cause more sparking + burning at the points). A further possible problem is the earth wire from the contact breaker plate to the distributor body. Either a break in this wire or a poor connection at either end can cause no spark. A test for both this and the points (but not the condenser), and for primary continuity of the coil, is to connect a 5w 12v light between the coil terminal that goes to the distributor and the engine. It should light when the points are open and go completely out when the points are closed. A multimeter will also work, although because of the low current draw it will not show up bad connections in the supply of voltage to the coil (e.g. faulty ignition switch contacts).

If you need a coil, the only important thing is to get one that is NOT designed to use with a ballast resistor (ones that are so designed should be labelled 8v not 12v, but may have 12v plus something a bit cryptic that indicates they are designed to use with a resistor).

John

[101RRS]

Thanks Chazza

Fuel idefintely OK, at least as far as the carb - but no blue spark.

Faint sparking between contact points opened with a screwdriver, as you suggested, but nothing from spark plug leads or lead from coil.

As you may have gathered, I'm a bit new to electrics, so live in hope I can fix this with an inexpensive replacement part - maybe the coil? Apart from taking the old one in (or even older Lucas model found in the toolbox), is there a particular brand/spec that I should be going for, or avoiding?

The electrics further 'upstream' is a nightmare - tangled, frayed and perished wiring, grommets and ominous loose ends, painted over in places. I will need to sort it all out properly but for now I just want a strong blue spark. If the coil sound like the culprit I'll get one tomorrow.

Thanks again

D

Points,
Condensor
Coil

Check/Replace in that order - test by putting your tongue on the HT lead:eek:

[dreamin']

...the coil is not necessarily the problem - have a good look at the points...

Thanks again John

Next weekend will be all about points.

Going through the box of bits today I came across several sets of points - mostly used ones same as those currently fitted, with 'bakelite' or similar components and a long curved spring. But there were also some new ones of a different style, all metal, with a hairpin-shaped spring and plastic insulators. A couple of these are still in packets, make/part nos as follows:

Automax S11V (270V)
Repco/Lorimer S11V
AC Delco GB534 (VS10858) BOSCH

Packaging lists a range of 60's-80's Ford, Holden and Chrysler models.

Are these likely to be suitable repleacements?

Thanks again

D

[chazza]

Thanks again John

Next weekend will be all about points.

Going through the box of bits today I came across several sets of points - mostly used ones same as those currently fitted, with 'bakelite' or similar components and a long curved spring. But there were also some new ones of a different style, all metal, with a hairpin-shaped spring and plastic insulators. A couple of these are still in packets, make/part nos as follows:

Automax S11V (270V)
Repco/Lorimer S11V
AC Delco GB534 (VS10858) BOSCH

Packaging lists a range of 60's-80's Ford, Holden and Chrysler models.

Are these likely to be suitable repleacements?

Thanks again

D

No idea - but if you compre them to the ones in the car it should give you some indication. The base plate mounting holes need to be exactly the same.

Changing points can be tricky if you have never done it before, so get a good workshop manual that details how to do it as it is easy to make a mistake if you don't understand the current flow and how to set the point gap properly.

I have forgotten what type of S1 Arfur is but if you search this forum you will find a thread discussing where to buy new points from.

Getting someone who has done it before to help you, is also a good idea,

Cheers Charlie

[series1buff]

If you need a new coil.. go to your nearest Bareco tractor parts dealer ( there is one in every town in Australia ) and ask for a grey fergy coil.. they sell a modern replacement for the old LUCAS 1950's coil, with the same screw in type connector. Make sure its a 12 V one ..not 6 volt .look at B5212

web site here Specials New (http://www.bareco.com.au/files/massey2001/specials.htm)

Mike

[dreamin']

Went down to the local Repco today and got Bosch points (GL10) and condenser (GL103) straight out of the book and off the shelf - no problem.

They also had a coil clearly listing Landrover Series I-III (nd others) on the box. About $60 for that one - from memory - so it's there if I need it.

So plenty to get on with but, looking at it all again tonight, the connectiions and leads from the battery terminals are so corroded and damaged, in places, it's a wonder anything gets through at all.

Saw some replacement brass clamps for the battery at Repco but none of the heavy-duty 'cables' for earth, starter etc - can make these up myself?

Thanks again for all the help and interesting sidetracks

D

[numpty]

If you're after new battery cables, go to your friendly neighbourhood auto electrician. We recently had new cables made up for our S1 and S11 and they cost no more than generic stuff from Supercheap etc. The new ones are also the length I wanted and with correct size lugs on each end. Saves trying to tighten a cable with a 10mm lug onto a 1/4" bolt etc.

Sounds like you need new spark plug leads as well.;)