1985 110 Door Locks repair

[land864]

Just got the 110 home on Saturday and tackling some jobs for RWC etc.
Door locks are my first priority. Have adjusted all door handles so they now all work. The right rear passenger door lock needs the right angle plastic actuator replaced. Not sure if you are familiar with it but that's the bit that sits under the knob push rod and pivots to activate the locking mechanism at the the striker end. Is it possible just to buy that bit or is there a metal alternative?

Also the rear end door lock does not activate the locking mechanism , it just spins around suggesting that something has broken or a pin has dropped out. Anyone know how to get the barrel out. There is two holes about 2mm in diameter at either side. Not sure if there is a spring mech to be pushed in or it's a one piece pin to be pushed right through.
Any ideas?

[land864]

GOT HIM!!!
The lock is out , it was an indent spring.
That wasn't the problem though.
Lock still spins through 360 degrees suggesting something is broken inside , like a pin or cam. Normally the lock activates through 180 degrees , 90 degrees left and 90 degrees right to lock and unlock. I will also post in wanted but anyone in Melb have an old rear door with a working lock they are wrecking?

[yt110]

Hi I replaced my county rear door lock and striker with a later model one,I think the 200tdi's still have the tapered brass bit on the door,but it wasn't used after that(I still used it),the lock and striker look the same as a "burst proof" RHF series 3,also there is a bracket that bolts on behind the striker and has 3 pop rivets onto the rear panel,this stops the striker flexing,it is an easy job and every thing lines up with existing holes

[isuzurover]

I don't think many/any parts are available, but you can pull apart the mechanism and repair them fairly easily. You need to drill through the steel rivets holding them together.

To put them back together I use sections of thick arc welding rod, a hammer and a block of steel to make new rivets. Otherwise, you can use pop rivets or tack weld the two halves.

Many bits are the same as SIII locks. But any broken bits inside can usually be repaired with a welder.

EDIT - if you are in Brisbane, Jason Kruger (ex?) President of the LROCB, wrote a very good article on repairing SIII locks, and may be willing to give you a copy. I think he is a member on here, but doesn't post regularly. There are others on here who are LROCB members though, and may be able to furnish you with a copy.

[land864]

Thanks Ben.

I am trying to source a complete replacement lock.

A place in Melbourne has them for $ 132 but I would like to repair if possible.
Yes I think the early 110 locks were the same as SIII

I'll try to track down that article.

Pete

[isuzubob]

Door locks are my first priority. Have adjusted all door handles so they now all work. The right rear passenger door lock needs the right angle plastic actuator replaced.Part # DZA1435L Not sure if you are familiar with it but that's the bit that sits under the knob push rod and pivots to activate the locking mechanism at the the striker end. Is it possible just to buy that bit or is there a metal alternative?


Give Fred Smith a call - 9720 4999.

[land864]

Thanks Bob

The part number makes it easier.

I'll give Fred a call