Turbo Mazda Freelander!

[JesusFreak]

Hey guys,

This is my first post on here, so good to meet you all :)

After being bitten by the usual Freelander overheating/head issues I noticed that lots of guys have asked about the possibility of different engines in the Freelander but no-one seems do have actually attempted it...until now...

I have bitten the bullet and decided that instead of forking out for another Rover motor with the same inherent design flaws I am going too put a Mazda F2 Turbo motor out of the MX-6 in it's place. For those unfamiliar with this engine it is a 2.2L SOHC 12 valve, with multipoint injection and an IHI turbocharger. It's a bulletproof little engine, and the best part about it is that it's common and cheap. (A fully rebuild one can be had for about $2k) If stock form they make 100kW (At a low 4500rpm) and 233Nm (at 3500rpm), putting it firmly within the new NCOP engine conversion guidelines, however running a turbo means that a slight increase in boost will increase those figures noticably.

I have purchased an 89 MX6 with a good engine from the salvage auctions for $290.00 as a donor vehicle for the electrics and mechanicals.

If anyone's interested I'm willing to post photos and costs as the conversion progresses. The actual swap will be done from the 22nd to 24th of June so Stay Tuned...

[Scouse]

Wow, you're keen. Good luck with the conversion & I'd love to see how it all works out.

[Camo]

This will be fun to watch:D

Make sure to post heaps of pics!

Cheers

Camo

[Junosi]

I'll be following this keenly too - I love frankensteins :D

Clark

[Scallops]

Yep - an interesting project for sure - and welcome to the forum - I'm sure you will get all the help you need from the AULRO brains trust. :)

[samuelclarke]

Welcome to AULRO! This sounds interesting...looking forward to seeing how you go. :)

[JesusFreak]

Cheers for the support guys :)
I'll make sure I get lots of pics...

For the record a lot of the credit will go to a mate of mine who's a mechanical engineer with one of the big mining firms...the reason the swap is waiting till the 22nd is he's on a FIFO roster and that's his next time back...otherwise I'd be a little lost on the really technical/fabrication side...

The plan is to mate the Mazda engine to the factory gearbox with a modified clutch assembly and bellhousing and leave the Rover ECU in place to handle anything not engine related that it may run, while using the Mazda ECU and loom to handle everything engine related...as part of the swap we will be putting a 2" stainless exhaust in with hi-flow cat and straight through muffler.

I'm not expecting it to be fully road ready by the 24th, but the engine should be in place...

Costs to date:

Donor Vehicle - 1989 MX-6 Auto with minor front / major rear damage (Mmmmm Mazda sandwich!) - $290
Mazda MX-6 Manual flywheel & clutch assembly (because the donor was an auto) - $150
SCA Pod Filter - $25
Venom Boost Gauge - $90
Gauge Pod - $11
2" Stainless Exhaust Piping - Free from an HSV performance shop (they fit aftermarket kits on brand new HSVs and throw out the factory stuff)
Straight through muffler - Free off my old TX3 - It had been on there for less than 12 months when she met her untimely end in the back of a Honda CRV :(
http://www.fordlaser.com/garage.php'mode=view_gallery_item&type=garage_mod&image_id=4038
Euro Spec 5 Cat Converter (to ensure it passes emissions testing)- $TBA
Clutch Modification - $TBA
Bellhousing adaptor plate or modification - $TBA
Cooling/intercooler piping - $TBA

TOTAL TO DATE = $566

There will probably be other costs as well as they come up I will list them...

[djhampson]

Looks like a fun project... keep the pics coming..

Where abous are you based?

[JesusFreak]

Hey DJ...based in Perth,WA

[JesusFreak]

Hey again...MX6 is now safely in the carport next to the Freebie...Here they are, don't they make a cute couple :p
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/523.jpg

The Freebys bumper only looks so battered because we were on a country trip when the engine spat it and we haven't wahed it since... streaks are rain...we do look after her better normally...promise :)

And in happier days...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/939.jpg


Now to the project...last night I fitted the boost gauge into the dash...Not a real dramatic start, but it was something easy to do on a wet night...I wanted it to fit in as close to the dash as posible so as not to attract attention...

I cut the pod down to the right size for the gauge and removed the base. Then cut a slot into the left side of the RHS rubber dash insert to mount the pivot point of the pod. To angle the pod to the correct viewing angle from the drivers seat I put a single screw from the right side of the mat into the back of the pod (plastic pod) to pull the back down and across. it warps the mat near the cluster slightly, but is not visible once the cluster is installed. A piece of 10mm cable sheath to hide the tube and wiring finished it off...here's some pics, I got carried away and forgot to take progress pics sorry...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/940.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/941.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/942.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/943.jpg

Stay Tuned...Tommorrow I start pulling things apart :woot:

[LRHybrid100]

watching with interest, as there are plenty of cheap FL1's out there!!!

LRH

[45tr0]

if the b6T motor from the tx3 is still in okay shape, you could very easily squeeze it into a ford festiva - the bell housing only needs a minor massage.
I went all out on mine when i was 17 (no non-turbo rules back then!) running a Toyota MR2 turbo & intercooler & 12psi boost. 132Kw in a car 250kg lighter than the TX3...

[JesusFreak]

Hey 45tr0,
The TX3 was a KC, so B6 SOHC NA...& the engine was a total write-off...on a positve note however here's my new beast :)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/771.jpg
'87 TX3 AWD Turbo - Hi-Flowed Turbo (running 17psi), Blitz DualSBC, Front Mount Intercooler, Pod Filter, cold air intake, BOV, Forged Pistons, 2.5" Dump pipe back exhaust, Hi-Flow Cat, Custom E/L gauges, Retrimed race seats, DEDICATED LPG CONVERSION HAPPENING NOW...www.profire.com.au (http://www.ozmazdaclub.com/forum/redirect-to/'redirect=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.profire.com.au)

http://www.ozmazdaclub.com/forum/theme/misc/progress.gif

[JesusFreak]

Anyway BACK ON TOPIC :D

Pulled all the hoses, intake manifold ect. off the block, the hoses to the transfer case and heater were stuck to the conections,so they had to be cut off...some serious oil in some of the finer hoses due to the head problems, will have to flush transfer case cooling system...Placed a jerry can in engine bay to catch fuel from key being turned to "on" position (In case I need to get the windows down for any reason) The fuel line fits the spout perfectly :)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/764.jpg

While I'm doing all this I decided to fit a bigger battery, this is an old 12V truck battery from work, it still holds charge fine but they decided to upgrade on the truck. To fit it just required the outside edge of the mounting bracket be shaved down to keep it flat...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/765.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/766.jpg
Also after attacking the front of the Mx6 with an angle grinder to get at the intercooler, because all the bumper mounting screws were inaccessible due to the accident...very good fun, almost theraputic :p
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/767.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/768.jpg
I discovered the factory intercooler won't easily fit anywhere on the freelander so I've ordered a slim frontmount from Just Jap it measures 140x650x65
http://justjap.com/store/images/P/cpintercooler550180.jpg
I am planning on moving the aluminium bar behind the bumper up about 50mm and fitting the cooler in the colour-coded bottom vent to maximise airflow to the radiator and painted black to minimise visual impact...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/769.jpg

I will be moving the bar in the next day or so, and the cooler arrives on Wednesday...so I'll update then...:spudnikwaving:

[JesusFreak]

Quick question...does anybody here know the input shaft diamater for the PG1 Gearbox?

[beforethevision]

Heres a tip:

Fit the intercooler above the alloy bar, and lift the PS cooler. Leave the bar in place. There is plenty of room, and moving the bar will **** off your engineer as it is supported by the crush cans. Plus where you show it will get mangled in the event of any nose/ground contact (and it does happen).

Cheers!

[JesusFreak]

Good thought mate....will see how it fits this evening...I was only going to slide it up till the mounts were @ the top of the crush cans though...

[JesusFreak]

Hello again...time for the next instalment in the saga :) The Intercooler

After trying what BeforeTheVision suggested I realised that there was not enough room to fit the cooler comfortably above the bar, also the airflow there is not great because the bumper only has the few small vents in that area. If I fitted the cooler there it would not allow the airflow to spread behind the bumper and would hamper the overall engine cooling, aside from only hitting a small area of the intercooler.

However, I did discover that I would have needed to move the bar up further than I had expected, which would have moved it off the crush cans, so I have cut a section out of the bottom of it to allow the cooler to sit inside. I will be sending it to an aluminium fabricator to have it re-enforced before final fitment and will post more pics of it then...as far as crushing the cooler offroad is concerned, it spends most of it's life on the road or in very light offroad conditions...If i ever convince my wife to go further off the beaten path (she doesn't like serious 4x4ing) then the first thing I will do is have a custom nudge bar made up specifically to protect the cooler...

Anyway thats getting a bit ahead of myself...

First thing, I used an angle-grinder to trim the top of the bottom inlet to allow the cooler to fit inside. I took about 30mm off the top edge, and tapered it down the sides to meet the bottom edge.
Then I used a Dremel to slowly grind out the sides further to allow room for the pipes.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/532.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/533.jpg
Once this was done, I lay the ally bar into the bumper and sat the intercooler on top of it, then I traced around the cooler and cut the rebate out of the bar.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/534.jpg
The Final Assembly
From the back:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/535.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/536.jpg
Held in place:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/537.jpg
Trial fitment on the car (Just sitting in place, held by the bumper at the moment):
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/538.jpg
There are still a couple of minor issues that need to be worked out...the bottom back of the cooler is just touching the AC compressor, so I'll need to swing it forward a few mm when I make the mounts...this means I will need to shave a bit more from the piping space in the sides of the bumper...The holes need to be cut to allow the piping back into the engine bay...and finally as mentioned at the begining of the post the ally bar needs to be re-enforced...

Having seen it on the car (And discussed it with my wife :p), I am now planning on leaving the bar silver. I think it looks good like that...what do you guys reckon?

[camel_landy]

Looks good like that, however...

When I look at that, the first thing that pops into my mind is off-road damage and/or the fins getting clogged up with mud!

If you're only ever going to use it on-road, it's not a problem.

HTH

M

[JesusFreak]

Hey again,

This morning I borrowed an engine crane from a friends workshop , and with my mate back from the mines it was time to start work in earnest...First port of call, removing the engine from the mx6...

We jacked the front up and pulled the CVs so the transmission could come out with the engine. Then we disconnected all the plumbing from the engine bay and dropped the exhaust at the dump pipe.

We decided to leave the loom connected to the engine to save figuring out where everything belonged on that end...this turned into an interesting decision as it seems mazda decided to run the electrics for almost every system in the car in one big loom that ran from behind the drivers dash, along under the fender across the front over the radiator back through the other fender into the passenger side dash...The drivers side wasn't too bad, but on the passenger side the connectors were under the dash between the firewall and the heater box, so rather than remove the whole dash, we dropped the fender and went to work with the angle grinder to cut an access hole...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/331.jpg

Once the loom was loose, the engine bay looked like this...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/332.jpg

Then it was time to hook up the crane, unbolt the engine mounts
(there are 4, and one would have been easier to do while the car was jacked up earlier...oops) and lift the engine and transmission out together...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/333.jpg

It was a tight fit, especially with the squished front end, but eventually it came out...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/334.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/335.jpg

And after 6 hours work, with the transmission removed we were left with this...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/336.jpg

In the morning, the fried K series comes out :D and the fun of mating the engine to the bellhousing & engine mounts begins...

Just before I go, for those who are worried about the intercooler sustaining off-road damage, If I ever get the chance to take the Freeby for some more serious off-road action, this is the kind of nudge bar/bash plate I have in mind...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/330.jpg

[camel_landy]

Just before I go, for those who are worried about the intercooler sustaining off-road damage, If I ever get the chance to take the Freeby for some more serious off-road action, this is the kind of nudge bar/bash plate I have in mind...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/330.jpg

I recognise that photo... I've got its sister car parked on my drive. :D

Whilst the plate would offer impact protection, it doesn't help you with the cores getting blocked up with mud. Additionally, should there be any damage to the pipe unions or even to the intercooler itself, driving through water could prove 'interesting'! :eek:

Mind you, I'm hoping that with the water question, the intercooler should be under +ve pressure so therefore it shouldn't take on any water.

M

[beforethevision]

Looks interesting!

What torque does the motor produce? i can kinda recall the gearbox (pg1) taking no more than 240nm? I looked at the 6A13 (V6TT) but it was going to splinter the gearbox.

Good luck!

[101RRS]

The Intercooler


Why not just use a Diesel Freelander Intercooler and fittings - will fit and saves a lot of mucking around.

Garry

[JesusFreak]

Hey again guys, I left my camera home, so I will update pics tomorrow...

Before I begin, cheers for the input on the cooler...

CamelLandy... I thought that looked like your avatar...where did you get the bar made?? And the Spotlights, I love that pod??? A fine mesh insert in front of the cooler for offroad should hopefully resolve the mud issue...the positive presure on the intake side only applys once the revs are up enough too spool the turbo, before this you still run a vaccum, however any damage to the intercooler or pipework would show up as an immediate drop in boost...so if I lose boost, I'll steer clear of rivers or large puddles :p

BeforeTheVision... the engine puts out 233Nm of torque and 100kW in stock form...it may run a bit harder than this due to the improved intake & exhaust I'm fitting, but shouldn't be enough to break the 'box...I'll have to be a little careful about playing with the boost though...

Garrycol... Yeah, a TD cooler would have been easier, bur it's too late now...also, I think the stock TD cooler would have been far more restrictive than the 1000cfm of the unit I've fitted...another thought for serious off-roaders would be a top-mount unit from a WRX or Liberty RS with a bonnet scoop...there's plenty of room on top of the engine, I've just never been a huge fan of scoops on 4x4s

Progress report...

We pulled the engine/gearbox/transfer case from the freeby and seperated the engine from the bellhousing...at this point we realised we had a problem, as the diameter F2T clutch and flywheel were wide for the bellhousing, so we had to head back to the wreckers to exchange them for a non-turbo F2 unit which is only 2mm larger than the LR item, meaning the LR clutch plate will work fine... we also discovered that the Freebys clutch was on it's last legs, so we picked up a new kit from repco...clearance price $388.00 reg price $988.00, Landrover wanted $420 fo a clutch plate which we would have done had the repco item not been on clearance...the plate is probably the only thing we are using, so if anyone wants some new bits for a freelander clutch, let me know...

Next problem, an input shaft bearing is needed to centre the gearbox with the engine...due to the imperial ID and the metric OD required, it's impossible to get a pre-fab bearing, so it was off to a machine shop to have a brass bushing made...the dimensions are OD-35mm, ID-19mm, Thickness-10mm...

Still at the machine shop, the F2 flywheel, while being the correct diameter, is 10mm too thick so that had to be machined down to fit...I should have it back tommorrow...

I also removed the rocker cover, and it's in being cleaned ready to be powdercoated...

The next lot of major work will be starting monday week when my mate is back from the mines again...until then, I have a mazda wiring harness too decipher and a rockercover to detail...

As i mentioned, I will put the pics up in a fresh post tomorrow...

Later Peeps :p

[camel_landy]

CamelLandy... I thought that looked like your avatar...where did you get the bar made?? And the Spotlights, I love that pod???

It was all made by Safety Devices for the 1998 Camel Trophy.

The bar is bolted, onto a couple of brackets which go through through the bumper, onto the chassis behind. It's then also bolted onto the sub-frame underneath. Once in place, it then acts as the mounting point for the 2x piece sump guard.

The pod is made from fibreglass and is bolted to the roof and the front of the roofrack. The roofrack is then bolted through the roof, into the internal roll cage. For the event, they were fitted with recovery points on the roof too, using the bolts which fix to the cage!!

The pod looks really cool but is a PITA to use... As soon as you turn the lights on, all you get is glare where it lights up the dashboard & bonnet too!!

M

[JesusFreak]

Fair enough... I was thinking about mounting a pair of spots to the front Roof rack points...do you think they would glare like the pod does or is that far enough back down the roof??

[camel_landy]

Fair enough... I was thinking about mounting a pair of spots to the front Roof rack points...do you think they would glare like the pod does or is that far enough back down the roof??

Depends on how far back you could mount them.

Personally, I think you might be better off with either a pair of spots on the bumper or even a bonnet mounted pod. :cool:

M

[JesusFreak]

Don't think I could sell my wife on the bonnet pod idea...so I guess I'll test them on the roof & if they don't work, I'll wait till I get the nudge bar sorted...

[JesusFreak]

Ok...as promised here are the next lot of pics...

The Radiator gone, and the AC condenser & compressor moved out of the way...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/197.jpg

The engine out...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/198.jpg

The 2 Flywheels...Mmmm.... yummy.... water and oil :p
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/199.jpg

The difference in thickness...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/200.jpg

Oh, while the car's off the road, we decided to retrim the worn out interior...here's the first door panel... from this...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/201.jpg

To this...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/202.jpg

The seats and all door trims will be re-done...the blessings of being married to an upholsterer :)

I will be picking up the flywheel on monday and will update with pics then...

[camel_landy]

WOW!

I like the trim. :D

Regarding the pod: Don't bother asking for permission, I find it's easier to just do it and then ask for forgiveness...

M

[camel_landy]

BTW - While the engine's out, you might as well fit a new steering rack. The seals tend to go at approx 10yrs old and it'll be a lot easier to do it without the engine in the way.

HTH

M

[JesusFreak]

Will check the steering rack, how much is a good one worth?

RE: light pods...the prob with the do it first thing is she drives it about 10x more than me...

[camel_landy]

Will check the steering rack, how much is a good one worth?

Pass... Over here, I can get a recon unit for approx £100 (exchange).

M

[HBWC]

updates????

[JesusFreak]

Sorry guys...I've been on holidays and don't have the net @ home...also, have been focusing on getting my TX3 (See pic back a few posts) across the pits before the WA LPG rebate expires tomorrow (Cam & Crank seals, Small leak in brake line, CV Boot... $900 later... but I guess that's why they call it the pits...)

So an update... once again pics will have to follow as I'm @ my in-laws without the camera...

I've finished unpicking the mazda wiring loom thanks to an online pdf of the full mazda wiring diagram (120 odd pages...there are only 4 pages that you need at this stage, but the rest may come in handy later...) About 3/4 of the wiring was unnecessary for the conversion (Lighting/signals, ABS, Auto Transmission, 4 Wheel Steering ect...) leaving a much more manageable number of wires...

The rockercover is now sporting a fresh coat of burgundy powder and an aluminium oil filler cap...looks great...oh and the new gasket is fitted also...

The gearbox is now mated to the engine... First the crank bolts had their heads shaved slightly and washers removed to allow clearance for the clutch plate because the recess in the new flywheel isn't as deep as in the factory one (In hindsight it may have been easier to machine the flywheel to exaclty the same dimensions as the freebys and redrill and dowel to match the freebys clutch plate...but you live & learn)

Then when the engine was lined up, the crank from the mazda sticks slightly further out from the engine than the one on the rover, so we had a 12mm adaptor plate machined from the bellhousing of the mazda auto transmission...bringing total machining costs to about $500 so far...

Also, the engine needs to be canted forward the same as the rover engine to allow it to clear the transfer case...

We are planning to de-gas the AC and use the mazda compressor as well as mounting Power steering pump and the Alternator in the same spots as on the MX-6 to save having to make too many custom brackets and find belts to fit...

And that's about it for now...pics will be forth-coming in the next few days (Just let me get the TX3 past the pits tomorrow) and hopefully the first half of next week will see a mazda engine finding a new home under the bonnet of a landrover :) Stay tuned...

[LandyAndy]

Looking forward to seeing this work:cool::cool::cool:
Did you end up with a match to my bro's MX6????
He still has those bits if you want them,wasting shed space.
Andrew

[JesusFreak]

Hey again guys...sorry for the big gap between posts, but the project was put on hold for a while for unrelated personal reasons...so anyways... progress report...

The engine is now all bolted up inside the bay with custom mounts ect...here it is :)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/09/746.jpg

It ended up being a tight fit for the AC compressor with a touch under 10mm clearance to the drivers side chassis (sideways, so no issues with engine moving)...the other big issue that came up was that the transfer case didn't quite clear the block, meaning that both the block and the trasfer housing had to be shaved back a few mm at their closest point to enable it all to fit...

A fresh drainage point was tapped into the new lowest point of the sump (Remember the engine is now canted forward)

The pulley from the MX6 power steering pump was centred and attached to the Freebys pump, the ratio between crank pulley & pump pulley was identical between vehicles, so there shouldn't be any dramas there. And a custom mount was made.

So that brings us to the next steps...wiring & plumbing

Here is the engine bay with the mazda loom laid out...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/09/747.jpg

I'm plaanning to locate the mazda fuses/relays/ECU in the top passanger corner of the engine bay over the spot where the toolbag normally sits like this...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/09/748.jpg

Now to try to work out how to splice the 2 looms together :o

Works gotten all flat out atm so I'll post up as soon as I've got anything to report...could be a week or 2...:D

Landy_Andy, sorry, haven't had a chance to check those details yet...what parts does your bro have again?

[camel_landy]

Keep those updates coming... ;)

M

[loanrangie]

Update, update !

[Ausfree]

Update please, I am biting my fingernails here, wanting to know the final chapter!!!;)

[JesusFreak]

Ok, no pics for now, but a quick update to save Ausfree's fingernails :p

Not long after the last update, it was decided due to time issues (ie. I don't have enough :( ) to get the last bits done by the pros...

First it went to the exhaust shop where a 2.5" dump-pipe back exhaust & mild steel intake plumbing were fitted...this took 2 months, but I can't complain too loudly as he only charged $650 for the lot :) There was no room for the HSV muffler I'd picked up, so it is running the straight through muffler off my old laser (I wrote the car off shortly after fitting it) with an almost new HSV cat converter...

It came back just before christmas, but due to work commitments & garage holidays it only went in to have the cooling, pwr steering ect hooked up on Monday, apparently it will be back by the end of the week :) then it's off to the 'Lecys to get the wiring sorted...Almost there :)

Will try not to leave you hanging for so long next time :p promise I'll get some pics before it leaves for the Electricians :angel:

[Ausfree]

Thanks for that Jesusfreak, as a fellow Freelander owner, I am really keen on seeing photo's, shame you live so far away, would like to see the vehicle.:)

[HBWC]

mister jesus freek sir do you have any updates

[Ausfree]

Still here biting my fingernails, waiting for an update.:):)

[dullbird]

wow I never venture into the freelander section unless the pages get above 1 then it must be interesting :D

Great project really enjoyed reading your thread....keep the updates coming

[Ausfree]

wow I never venture into the freelander section unless the pages get above 1 then it must be interesting :D

Great project really enjoyed reading your thread....keep the updates coming
Yeah, its a great project isn't it I have been watching it for some time now. A turbo Freelander should blow the socks off a few mug lairs.:D:D

[HBWC]

any chance of a update

[JesusFreak]

Thanks for the continued interest guys :) Due back from the mechanics next week, a few small issues encountered, but everything that's unexpected adds to the time...

1. Had lost part of the clutch hydraulics while everything was stripped down...DOH! Had to order replacement kit...

2. Custom stainless piping for PS & Cooling needed to be bent, expected this one, but took a while...

3. Freeby doesn't run a fuel return line from it's regulator, mazda does...had to order new fuel line, run it alongside the factory line & tap it in above the sender...

4.Mechanic was sick for a couple of weeks...

Almost there now though :)

[HBWC]

update???? please is it back from the mechanics

[Ausfree]

X2:confused::D

[JesusFreak]

Oh the suspense :o no...he's all done with it but I've been working 80+ hour weeks & havent had a chance to pick it up...don't know the cost either...kinda dreading that bit after the couple of issues...

[isuzutoo-eh]

Great work! A friend of a friend has a dead-engined FL1, hoping to point this thread to him when the results are concluded ;)

[Ace]

very interesting thread JF, awaiting the results along with everyone else and also biting fingernails.

We are selling the wifes Pajero and downsizing so was thinking a freelander but given the history of the 1.8L petrols im not real keen on one, but if i can plan an engine change whilst im waiting for it to melt down then they are a good cheap buy.

Looking forward to seeing the results.

Matt

[Rover18]

Mod - Removed - do not sell in the general forums.

Please use the markets - http://www.aulro.com/apc/

[Ausfree]

Just pulled this Thread from the depths.........Is anything happening at all!!!!!:)

[the mad hat man]

Wheres the rest of the thread (& pics)??




















sorry folks - its reserectafred time ;)

[Ausfree]

Yeah, I would love to know what happened also. I was watching this Thread with great interest.:D

[101RRS]

Like most of these type of projects I suspect it started with a lot of enthusiasm but then started to die a slow death as evidenced by the lack of progress posts for over 2 years.

Garry

[Ausfree]

Yeah, shame really. Looking at his last post, I think the warning signs, were there!!:(

[Camo]

Was hoping it would work.. but clearly like many conversions it was harder than it looked:(

[loanrangie]

Probably realized that he was way over capitalizing on a lemon.

[JesusFreak]

Hey guys,

Sorry to disappear without a whisper for so long, all the conjectures contain some truth.

I still have the Freeby, but it is still sitting unfinished.

I got to the point where everything was nearly done, only for an issue with the transfer case to rear it's ugly head. I suspect it was the viscous coupling that has jammed and broken something else in the diff while it was being towed around...

When that happened, I took stock and realised that over the time I had been working on it, we had outgrown it in terms of camping and were looking to travel more remote than I would be comfortable taking the Freeby.A dual-cab ute seemed a better prospect going forward. After shopping around I settled on a 2000 Rodeo LT Sport with a 2.8 Turbo.

I still planned to finish it and sell it, but then I got started modifying the Rodeo :p

From this:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/981.jpg (http://s583.photobucket.com/user/JesusfreakTX3/media/Rodeo2.jpg.html)

To this:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/982.jpg (http://s583.photobucket.com/user/JesusfreakTX3/media/20130927_072942_zps7fd3040a.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/983.jpg (http://s583.photobucket.com/user/JesusfreakTX3/media/20130930_084935_zps37ac8599.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/984.jpg (http://s583.photobucket.com/user/JesusfreakTX3/media/1380796357762_zpsaf370f2e.jpg.html)

It's still only halfway to where I want it, but I'ts getting there. We are taking it for 4 months tenting around the country in a couple of years, so I am building it to be self-sufficient for a couple of weeks at a time.

Anyway, sorry to bore you with pics of a Holden on the Landrover forums, on the off-chance anyone is interested, the full thread is here:My (old) New Rodeo...The build continues - My Isuzu Or Holden 4WD - Australia4WD Forum (http://forum.australia4wd.com/index.php?/topic/24790-my-old-new-rodeothe-build-continues/)

Back to the Freelander...

It is currently sitting with almost everything done, even the wiring has been sorted, I'm pretty sure the paint is looking worse for wear after a couple of years in the weather. At this point I don't have the time or money to continue (See above for where the money is going :p ) and it is taking up space at my in-laws.



I have spent over $3000 getting it to this point, and that was with massive savings on labour.

Still to be done:
- Fix or replace gearbox/Transfer
- Connect intake plumbing - It's all there except for 1 silicone adaptor
- Connect AC - The compressor and condenser as well as piping are there, just needs re-connecting and gassing.
- Make coverplates for a couple of places on the bellhousing.
- Cooling fan still needs sorting, I would reccomend a pair of aftermarket slimline ones as there is not as much room between the engine and the radiator.
- Service motor and check seals (It has been sitting a while)

To everyone who has followed this thread, thank you for your support and encouragement and I'm very sorry I disappeared for so long without an explanation, I hope this answers your questions.

[djhampson]

Please post this in the classifieds section. Selling is not allowed in thus forum.

[101RRS]

Wow - ablast from the past.

I was thinking of installing an LT230 CD/L in a tube and using it to replace the VCU - in in fact bought a Lada Niva transfer case to replace the vcu but never got around to developing it.

garry

[Ausfree]

Crikey, it's 'im!!!!:o Welcome back, on the one hand I am glad you have been so busy with your other project and on the other hand I'm sad that you did not complete the Freebie, seeing as how you spent so much time and money on it.:D:D

Would make an interesting project for somebody with the time and aptitude to finish it.:D:D

[camel_landy]

Wow - ablast from the past.

I was thinking of installing an LT230 CD/L in a tube and using it to replace the VCU - in in fact bought a Lada Niva transfer case to replace the vcu but never got around to developing it.

garry

IMO - A Haldex unit, which could swap out for the VCU, would be an ideal option.

M

[adebomar]

Excelled our friend - Can you put the engine on the status of payment rear Freelander example of this mazda bus engine 2.2