Removing L322 Rangie Tail lights

[spudboy]

I thought this was going to be simple....:mad:

Anyone know the trick to removing the rear taillights from an '03 L322 Rangie? I have taken out the 2 10mm bolts on the side, but can't see what else needs undoing.

I've taken out the inside panel which hides the relays & other misc electrical chaos to see if I can get to it from the inside, but no obvious access from that path at all.

Any help greatly appreciated.
David

BTW - the reason I want to remove them is because one side has filled up about 2" with water. I am tempted to drill a fine hole through the lens to let the water out, but I think that will also let dust and grime in.

[spudboy]

Searching around, I have found this:

Condensation in Tail Lights

Another common problem is the appearance of massive amounts of condensation in the rear tail light housings. A Technical Service Bulletin 86/06/05/NAS was issued on July 25, 2005 covering this issue for 2003-2005 models up to VIN ***5A186201. The preamble to the TSB tries to convince us that condensation is normal, but it then goes on to admit that water can enter the breather tube "under extreme conditions" (this is Land Rover-speak for normal conditions). If water is pooled in the lamp assembly, or the condensation on the lens does not clear when the lamps have been on for 30 minutes, it is advised that replacement lamp assemblies are called for, as follows:
XFB500360..............Lamp assembly RH rear NAS Qty 1
XFB500370..............Lamp assembly LH rear NAS Qty 1
The lamp assembly replacement procedure is rated at 0.3 hours of labor.

My car ran out of warranty 3 or 4 months ago, so what chance have I got of getting LR to fix this, given that the TSB was issued in 2005?

[Scouse]

I have taken out the 2 10mm bolts on the side, but can't see what else needs undoing.

Once the bolts are out, the light should come out with a rearward pull. The other side is held in with a ball type socket arrangement.

[spudboy]

Excellent - Thanks for that. Worked a treat. I was trying to swing them out and away from the body.

I now have them sitting on the airer above my wood-heater to dry them out thouroughly.

Am going to try running some silicone along the top join where the water looks like it's getting in.

[jx2mad]

O.K. How do you remove the l.h. side tail light assembly? I know of the two small securing bolts next to the tail gate but it is secured somewhere else. Mine gets water in it and I need to dry and seal the fitting. Jim

[Scouse]

The outside edge is secured by a push in fitting. Just pull the light rearwards.

[harlie]

yep it comes of rearwards after the 2 bolts are removed - held in by two strong clips. I have to use a large screwdriver to lever mine off, there are 2 small recesses in the plastic moulding to fit a lever in, with care it’s easy to do with out scratching paint

[jx2mad]

O.K. Light fitting out..now how do you get into it? Jim
:):):)

[Scouse]

I've never split one apart to check but you could always use the Defender theory of leak sealing.

Hole at the top for breathing, another at the bottom for draining.

[jx2mad]

If you can't get it apart how do you change a bulb if necessary?

[Scouse]

There's a clip or two that hold the bulb section in place. I thought you'd had that part sorted & wanted to seal the clear perspex to the light body.

[jx2mad]

No problem with bulbs but there is a lot of condensation inside fitting. Maybe I wait for it to dry out and then run a bead of sealer around edge. Jim

[danske]

No problem with bulbs but there is a lot of condensation inside fitting. Maybe I wait for it to dry out and then run a bead of sealer around edge. Jim

Hi Jim , mine is the same , I am about to tackle the same thing , I'd be interested in hearing if you fixed it with sealer , as I can't see visible crack , where water is getting in. Please post your result. Thanks . Dan