shock absorber replacement...

[Zej]

The left rear damper/shock absorber on my '86 RRC has been crapping itself over the last couple of days and finally kicked the bucket (with a spectacular "CLUNK!" and uncontrolled bobbing on the left rear of the vehicle!).

Rather than taking it back to the mechanics again, I'm planning to replace them myself (I assume you replace both left and right dampers at the same time?) as it looks quite do-able. Is it just a simple un-bolting of the old ones and bolting the new ones in, or are there adjustments that need to be made?

The old units are Gabriels (fitted with the 2" springs).
Would the lift make a difference to which shocks I buy? I was thinking of getting these:
Bilstein Heavy Duty Rear Shock Absorber to suit Land Rover Range Rover 72-8/94 - Bilstein Shock Absorbers - Shock Absorbers - Suspension - 4x4 Store Australia (http://www.4x4store.com.au/Bilstein-Heavy-Duty-Rear-Shock-Absorber-to-suit-Land-Rover-Range-Rover-72-8-94-pr-242041.html)

Thanks in advance for your thoughts!

[Pierre]

Give AMV a ring (9870 9904) talk to Greg. He will have Bilsteins at competitive prices. They are in East Ringwood.

HTH

Pete

[buzz66]

Compressing the top rubber to get the second hole to put the split pin in will have you thinking again depending on what model you have.
I beleive you can thread and nut this. Just a thought.
Getting the split pin in the first hole is a piece of cake BTW.

[350RRC]

Compressing the top rubber to get the second hole to put the split pin in will have you thinking again depending on what model you have.


Hi,

I used to do that, but there is really no point. First hole is all I've used for yonks.

The rubbers don't last any longer and will flex less the more they are compressed.

cheers, DL

[big_waity]

Compressing the top rubber to get the second hole to put the split pin in will have you thinking again depending on what model you have.
I beleive you can thread and nut this. Just a thought.
Getting the split pin in the first hole is a piece of cake BTW.

There's a split pin for the top rubbers?
On my 1990 Rangie there is a thread and a nut, is this not original?

I recently swapped the rear shocks on mine and it took about 20 minutes.

[HangOver]

There's a split pin for the top rubbers?
On my 1990 Rangie there is a thread and a nut, is this not original?

I recently swapped the rear shocks on mine and it took about 20 minutes.

81" RRC here and my shocks are threaded too.

undo a couple of bolts jack it up, pretty easy job. Watch how high you jack though so your break lines dont extend too much.
Actually have a good look at them if they are perished change them at the same time.

[mike 90 RR]

There's a split pin for the top rubbers?
On my 1990 Rangie there is a thread and a nut, is this not original?


81" RRC here and my shocks are threaded too.

Yep ... 1990 RRC has a split pin & washer for the top rubbers

Mike1990RRC :D

[big_waity]

Yep ... 1990 RRC has a split pin & washer for the top rubbers

Mike1990RRC :D

Mine doesn't! :p

[McDisco]

Just make sure you replace both rears. If you use different ones they may be valved differently and have a different dampening effect. You may notice the difference in behaviour.

Angus

[Zej]

Just make sure you replace both rears. If you use different ones they may be valved differently and have a different dampening effect. You may notice the difference in behaviour.

Angus

Yup, thought so. That's what I plan to do.

So do you jack the chassis up to let the axle droop a little to remove the shock, or do you just remove the wheel and plonk the axle on stands?

[HangOver]

Yup, thought so. That's what I plan to do.

So do you jack the chassis up to let the axle droop a little to remove the shock, or do you just remove the wheel and plonk the axle on stands?
undo the shocker retaining nuts/pins, (whatever is holding it in place top and bottom) then jack up from the chassis to lift the chassis/body on the side your removing the shocker from. This leaves the axels more or less where they are.

[UncleHo]

G'day Folks :)

My 1/85 4 door has split pin and washer on the top, I believe that it is a common thing to use the rear mounts assy from Disco 1's as they are threaded, straight swap :) so it is an easy retro fit


cheers

[BigJon]

I changed rear shocks in my Rangie without removing wheels, jacking the vehicle, etc.

Just undo the bottom nut, remove the split pin and pull the shock out.
Fitment is the reverse. Make sure the shock is compressed, get it in place at the bottom, as it extends slide it over the top mount.

[350RRC]

Hi,

Seeing this thread is still going I checked with the w/shop manual.

RRC's went to the threaded mount in 1990 FWIW.

For models using split pins the manual says to use the inboard hole. As previously posted, that's what I used to do but it isn't easy to compress the rubbers that far, so I started using the outside hole. (was in a hurry 1st time)

The top rubbers don't seem to wear any faster doing this and its a 1 minute job to change them anyway. Could make a tool to compress the rubbers to use the inboard hole, but I haven't been bored enough in recent years to do so.

I'd think that if the threaded version was done up too tight articulation could suffer and the weld on the top shocker loop could get stressed.

cheers, DL

[rovercare]

Hi,

Seeing this thread is still going I checked with the w/shop manual.

RRC's went to the threaded mount in 1990 FWIW.

For models using split pins the manual says to use the inboard hole. As previously posted, that's what I used to do but it isn't easy to compress the rubbers that far, so I started using the outside hole. (was in a hurry 1st time)

The top rubbers don't seem to wear any faster doing this and its a 1 minute job to change them anyway. Could make a tool to compress the rubbers to use the inboard hole, but I haven't been bored enough in recent years to do so.

I'd think that if the threaded version was done up too tight articulation could suffer and the weld on the top shocker loop could get stressed.

cheers, DL

Just get a socket, that goes over the sticky out bit, put the rubber in, then the washer , stick the socket over the lot and bash fug out of it:D, I also use the outer hole now, jacking the vehicle to the matching height of the extended shocket helps with this;) and a 2 post hoist makes it a dream:cool:, they're basically just a crap idea and should of been pin:mad:

[Zej]

Well, I managed to change them over mostly unscathed...
Those locknuts at the bottom were an absolute pain to remove, and my arms are still sore 3 days later.

My '86 does have the split pin thingo. Looks like the guys who installed the Gabriels just used the outer hole, so I did the same.

I used Bilstiens from AMV (thanks for the tip, Pierre...), bought for a very reasonable price.