Operation "86 inch revival"

[iannuls]

Here goes, I'm very new to "threads", but my experience of the last week has been excellent. Everyone has been very helpful with advice, and potential parts sourcing.

I picked up my "iron oxide experiment" 10 days ago, and my initial "oh sh*t" moment passed quickly when I read through Chrisrangie's thread rebuild. Brilliant.

Does anyone know of a Land Rover Series scrap yard in Aspley, Brisbane. I have heard of it, but can't find reference anywhere.

I'm also shopping for a cheap MIG welder, probably new, any suggestions?

First up, I need a 1956 2L carb and a radiator to get it running.

Ian

1956 86" 2L Series 1 (Or so I think; anyone else think different from the numbers on the pics)

[Lost Landy]

G,day looks like fun days are ahead lol. As for the scrap Land rover place at Apsley I think your refering to a guy called Dennis he has alot of Landy stuff but be prepaired as he comands high prices for his stuff.
Good luck with your restoration.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Your estimates are correct, likely somewhere around September going by production year dates and vehicles sold in NSW on either side of yours.

Being an Annand and Thompson assembled vehicle you will probably find the chassis number stamped on the flat top of the LHS chassis rail between the engine mount bracket and the radiator support.

The engine is in the correct number sequence to be the original engine. There is no way we can know for sure because the A&T records have been lost and the UK records do not record engine numbers for CKD vehicles.

BTW I think the 86" are great - the rust in the footwells are very repairable, you may even be able to use the repair panels for the series 2 and 3 models with a little effort. The place to check is around the vents at the A pillar and in the centre of the firewall and the outrigger where the brake master cylinder goes through (on both sides).

Diana

[iannuls]

Cheers guys

I'm also trying to identify the particular motor, so as to get the right carb. Attached are a couple of pics and the engine number is in a previous post below. Is this a later full-oil circulation motor. What type of carb did that take?

Cheers

Ian

1956 86" S1 (More confident of that now)

The steering wheel photo is included just because I love it and I can't believe it still manages to hold together in it's condition. When I get a better one I will be mounting it and hanging it in the pool room.

[iannuls]

Thanks Diana

Interested in your comments about the repair sections. Where do you get them from?

The real problem with the bulkhead is rot further up, fiddly many layered rot, from just below the instrument shelf on both sides to the vents and top rail. I feel the fire wall is a write off. Suprisingly the chassis is reasonably solid, apart fom a couple of lacy outriggers.

Ian

1956 86" S1

[Newbs-IIA]

Welcome to the forum mate, good looking project you got there. Your best for finding parts is eBay or right here on AULRO. Quite a few members have acess to a good range of parts off wrecks they have. Best bet is post it up on here and see who replies. Alternatively you can post a wanted add in the Markets section.

From experience I can tell you that Series Landy parts are thin on the ground at brisbane wreckers. Sailsbury has a IIA and III LWB (got a few parts from those trucks on my IIA :D :D :D) and thats about it untill you get to Gympie. New parts are pretty well catered for from MR Automotive in Redcliffe or FWD Motors at yerrongpilly(sp) just to name a couple. MR carries alot of genuine stuff and the blokes there have good experience with Series Landys.

[series1buff]

First up, I need a 1956 2L carb

Ian



and most of us are looking for one too ..Many of them were ditched cos most series 1's had a Holden Stromberg fitted ... or in many cases , the whole Holden motor !

[Surly One]

I might be able to help you with chassis bits and a firewall but not for at least six months or so, I need it to hold the rest of the vehicle together until then.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

For the repair sections for the footwells, anyone who sells Brit parts, so try MR Automotive in Qld, FWD in Blackburn (not my preferred source) or find someone who as a bending brake and fold them yourself. The top of the firewall you will have to do yourself. If you are not a welder either learn or use Sikkoflex and sealed pop rivets to make up the footwells then gas or TIG or MIG welding to glue it to the original bulkhead.

The other option is to find a wrecked Landy from west of the ranges, they usually have dead mudguards but relatively rust free firewalls.

All the series 1 engines use the 32 PB Solex what is different is the jetting. That can be changed to suit your engine by an carby specialist.

[numpty]

As Diana said, all the S1 carbies are the same. If your vehicle is '56, the engine is likely the later spread bore type.

You wont find body panels at MR, just lots of parts and good advice. Good luck with the build.

[chris1983rangie]

Hi Ian,

keep the photos comming looking foward to seeing your progress.
also just checked my Id.No.177600144 close to your Landy 177600902
i just realised that mine is a 1956 model too all this time i thought it was a 55model, well thats what was on the rego sticker.

Can someone confirm this?

cheers,

Chris.;)

[iannuls]

Cheers

Thanks to Lost Landy(Assuming we reach a mutually agreeable financial deal ;)) I should have a crash damaged chassis to pick parts off, for my little rusty rolling chassis.

Next step is to learn to weld.:eek:

After seeing the ridiculous prices for 2nd hand gear at Cash Conripoff :mad:, I have been shopping for reasonably priced new ones.

Repco have a 150 amp one for $650, and Glenfords have a Neweld 150 Amp for $479.

Any words of wisdom anyone?

Cheers

Ian

1956 S1 86"

[iannuls]

[QUOTE=numpty;1007428]As Diana said, all the S1 carbies are the same. If your vehicle is '56, the engine is likely the later spread bore type.../QUOTE]

Thanks

I have now confirmed it's a later spread bore full-oil-circulation 2L motor,(probably original) :). As no luck sourcing a LR Solex carb :(, I am going to get a Holden Stromberg to get the thing running.

As it was running with a Solex two months ago, is there anything I need to do with the standard 179 or 202 stromberg carb except remove the LR inlet manifold lining before attaching the stromberg.

PS How do people attach air filters when the stromberg is used, room is a bit tight.

Thanks

Ian

"56 S1 86"

[numpty]

As you have said that it was running with a Solex a couple of months ago, what happened to the original carby?

Re the Stromberg, cant help much, but it will need to be jetted to suit for a start. The Solex in my 11A has a small diameter sport filter mounted directly on top.

[iannuls]

The bloke I bought the rolling chassis from had helpfully stripped the thing of the small valuable components, windscreen, doors, carb, wings, tub, instruments, master cyl, wheel nuts (Only two on each wheel though) most of the wiring loom...phew....I think he was just making it a challenging rebuild!

Ian

[olmate]

[QUOTE=iannuls;1008870
PS How do people attach air filters when the stromberg is used, room is a bit tight. QUOTE]

My 2A has a Stromberg from a Holden 161 on it. I have managed to get a rubber fitting that does the "right angle thing" so I can use the std air filter - this came off a series 3 that I had once. The carby works fine but is off the vehicle at the moment as I have learnt the difference between a Stromberg for an Auto and one for a Manual (she used to run-on a bit). Can send photos in a week or so if you need to see some; just send a pm.

[Maffra]

Hi Troy,
That motor you got from me had a Holden Stromberg carby fitted to it. The original Solex was taken off and replaced with the stromberg back in the '60's. From memory the Stromberg does sit a bit higher making it a bit tight for the Air Cleaner connector. What we did all those years ago is to manufacture a lower metal right angle piece that fitted under the bonnet to connect to the air cleaner. I might still have that piece here. I will have a look and if I can find it I will send it up in case it is of any use.

Sorry, I just re read this and realised that it was Ian asking the question :angel:

I will have a look through the old Landy bits I have up in the shed over the weekend anyway.

Regards

Maffra

[iannuls]

Quick update on my progress with the 1956 86" rebuild.

1. Bought a crash damaged LWB chassis and bits from Lost Landy (Thanks mate)
2. Bought myself a MIG welder (Still practicing.)
3. Starter motor stuffed, currently in getting overhauled, Carb needs the same treatment unfortunately. I want to get the motor started before I even start cleaning it. Once I know it runs, I'll lift it out and weld the chassis
4. Stripped and fitted replacement steering rack and linkages, new front grille and radiator (Seems to be without splits so far), trying to source hoses at present.
5. Stripped bulkhead on donor, ouch...needs more welding than I'd hoped. Couple of accident cracks and splits became apparant after pressure washing
6. Stripped petrol tank only some surface rust and it still holds petrol...a win at last...
7. Full doors, windscreen and hardtop and 86" bonnet have been sourced, that gives me a spare windscreen and bonnet.
8. I have two average tubs, which I hope to amalgamate to one reasonable one. Funny thing, I now have the original tub off my rolling chassis back, after being stripped and sold off before I bought the chassis, by the previous owner. - Spooky

Ian

[ellard]

hi there

many thanks for the update.......let me know how you go with the mig welder as its my next aquasition...

If its any help, I have quite a few fuel tanks which are in good condition, but distance for freight could be an issue

Wayne

[Lost Landy]

G,day Ian glad to here from you, Seams that you have done a fair bit to the old gal. Iam sure you wont find to much cracking on the radiator surport pannet as its a metal one and not the alloy jobie (the alloy ones warp/crack due to weight of bonnet mtd spare wheel)
Keep up the work, & you will have the Landy running in no time. ;)

[iannuls]

UPDATE:

After a great deal of messing about trying to fix up the starter motor, I finally gave up and took it to Auto electricians. They were to quote me for repair. Two weeks and a lot of excuses later they told me it was refurbished and I owed them $240...No quote, no choice...great! They apologised, and told me I could leave it with them, or pay and take it away with 12 months warranty....I paid up..and resolved to find new auto electricians in future.

Good news is that with some new plugs, some petrol down the throat of the carb and the coil jerry rigged, I got the engine running. I need new plug tops and leads, but it is firing on all four and sounds good.

I've compression tested the cyls, and I've got from 90 PSI to 120 PSI, what's normal for a 7:1 compression engine? 1 is 120, 2 is 100, 3 is 90, 4 is 85. Worn engine, but no oil in the water or water in the oil as far as I can tell (Doesn't look like there has ever been any anti corrosion/freeze in the block either, phew talk about rusty).

Attached is video of it firing and starting for the first time. I can't figure out why it's not uploading...I'll try again later) I've been able to turn the engine over, but never get it started until now. Tested the petrol pump and that works, so just need to sort out some fuel line and get the carb fixed.

Next step carb....

Ian

S1 '56 86"

[iannuls]

Thanks to Chrisrangie for the video upload tip:

YouTube - Land Rover Series 1 1956 rebuild


Ian

S1 1956 86"

[JDNSW]

UPDATE:

..........
I've compression tested the cyls, and I've got from 90 PSI to 120 PSI, what's normal for a 7:1 compression engine? 1 is 120, 2 is 100, 3 is 90, 4 is 85. Worn engine, but no oil in the water or water in the oil as far as I can tell (Doesn't look like there has ever been any anti corrosion/freeze in the block either, phew talk about rusty).

.............

Ian

S1 '56 86"

I don't have a Series 1 manual, but the 2.25 engine with the same compression is quoted at 145psi. But note that this is with the engine hot, and with plenty of oil splashed about on the cylinder walls. Any figures with the engine cold and having only run for a few minutes are unreliable.

Rust in the cooling system is normal on engines of this vintage - antifreeze was not specified except in freezing areas, and neither was any corrosion inhibitor - you were just admonished to use soft water, rainwater for preference. (A good idea to put some in when you have refurbished it though!)

John

[Lost Landy]

The engine in my 1958 88" has comp of around 110 psi to 116 psi the manual reads

:Compression pressure (at starter motor cranking speed, i.e, 300 rpm with engine hot & carburetter butterfly fully open)
125lb/sq.in, 8,8kg/cm2

Hope it helps.

[chris1983rangie]

Hi Ian,

thanks for the Vid, so my instructions made sense then ;) im usually good at confusing people. LoL

great to hear it fire up, sounds good.
is it a 2.0L motor?

cheers,

Chris:cool:

[iannuls]

Yes, It's more than likely the original 2L LR engine. It has spreadbore cyl and oil filteringwhich is right for the year and the numbers tie pretty close to the age of the car. I've had it started a few times now, and it sounds remarkably smooth for a 53 year old pushrod engine which more than likely has been under maintained at some points of it's life.

It's such a great feeling getting the thing to fire isn't it, almost a Dr Frankenstein feeling of life creation.

I was lookin at your pics, and it sits a lot higher than mine, is that just due to the new springs verses the ancient ones on mine? Or have you given it a bit of a lift?

Ian

S1 1956 86"

[chris1983rangie]

yeah i love firing up engines wether they are new or have just been sitting around for a while very much like Frankenstein......LoL :D

Yes, i have new front springs and 2nd hand rears had them reset and it is also
on 7.50 tyres as i wanted it to sit a little higher than the standard height.

cheers,

Chris:cool:

[iannuls]

Final update on my rebuild of the series1.

I sourced and fitted a Stromberg carby, got the 2L motor running, sourced a half decent firewall from a donor LWB had it shot blasted, primed and I patched a couple of holes ( big 6 cyl Holden engine had needed the firewall modified in the LWB).

The project sat for a year while I tried to fix up the chassis, but my welding skills never quite got there and patience ( my wife's) ran out. I advertised the stripped down S1 about a year ago and sold it to an older guy who had the time and the skill. He'd just rebuilt a 1950's Riley.

I spent a year convincing my wife that a better condition LR would be the way to go, and i've just realised my Landrover dream and bought a running series III. A west Queensland farm 1973 SWB soft top. (Very little rust at all) A much more achievable project for my skill levels. It's pretty much original apart from the Stromberg Holden carb and the pancake filter. It's got FWH fitted, which I'll remove in time and a Fairley OD. So this is me signing off from the S1 space and defecting to the SIII space. Thanks for the help....