View Full Version : diesel conversion
HBWC
24th June 2009, 08:50 PM
im going to put a desiel in milly some time in the near future 
so im wondering if im missing something in my thourghts.
 
so things i need to do are
use the choke cable for fuel pump
fit a return fuel line 
wire up glow plugs
rebuild starter as she strugles to turn the petrol over
of course wire in the temp and oil senders
 
any thing ive forgoten 
or any tips in the change over
 
thanks jono
JDNSW
24th June 2009, 09:35 PM
The diesel starter is a much larger one than the petrol starter - I doubt the petrol starter will turn a diesel, and if it does, it won't for long. The diesel has a ignition switch with a position for glow plugs, and you probably need a glow plug warning light.
The diesel engine mounts are different - probably stiffer I think. 
The diesel fuel system has a low fuel warning light - switch incorporated into the sender. Note if changing the sender, when the electrics changed from positive to negative earth, the fuel gauge and sender also changed, and are not compatible, so if you fit a new sender, it needs to be compatible. 
The diesel has heavier front springs. 
I'll probably think of other changes, but these are the ones I can think of at the moment.
John
Sleepy
24th June 2009, 09:56 PM
<<ooops - re-read the post>>
HBWC
24th June 2009, 10:00 PM
it already sits higher in the front so that dont wory me
i have the ignition out of a desiel sitting at the end of my bed
the fuel gauge wont wory me ill just fit a 10lt reserve tank like my old one in qld (the gauge was u/s in that one)
your right the desiel engine mounts are bigger but ive been tolled by the poms that the petrols one give a smover ride
and thanks ill order one of those hi torce ones from rocky mouintans
Blknight.aus
24th June 2009, 10:33 PM
dont forget the fuel system and its multiple hoses..
I went through it with fozzy, not hard but I complicated matters on mine by going twin tanks to start with then upgrading to WVO ability.
its a drop in job, just remember you loose you vac assist brakes unless you retain the power sucking vac generation unit that bolts onto the air intake.
max rated RPM is down, you also drop 15 odd HP and a handfull of torques but you get a wider delivery.
overhaul the lift pump BEFORE you put the engine in and I plumbed the lines onto the pump as well and routed them after the engine was in.
Watch the clutch line on the way out and in with the donk.
isuzurover
25th June 2009, 12:40 AM
The others have pretty much covered it.  While the diesel shares the same block, that is about it. Crank, flywheel, flywheel housing, cam, head, and lots of other bits are different.
I converted my 109 around 1999 and have never regretted it. A choke cable  works fine as an engine stop. I use a start button to work the glow plugs. I use county (V8) engine and gearbox mounts.
There are a few easy mods to extract more power, which I have posted previously.
Blknight.aus
25th June 2009, 05:43 AM
I hate to be picky but
the dimensions of the block crank and flywheel are the same and can be interchanged if you need to. The diesel stuffs just tougher.
if you wanted to do a super cheap diesel you could do it just by swapping the head and injector pump for the dizzy, it wouldnt last long but it would work.
the reverse however.......
if you want to make a super tough petrol, buy the diesel and put the petrol head ,inlet manifold (so you can mount a carby) and dizzy back in.
going by the book you're not supposed to grind the crank on a diesel 2.25 and you only get one shot at oversizing the pistons.
JDNSW
25th June 2009, 07:23 AM
.............
going by the book you're not supposed to grind the crank on a diesel 2.25 and you only get one shot at oversizing the pistons.
I seem to remember that Tank has a diesel with a reground crankshaft - which is broken, apparently due to failure to properly radius the end of the journal.
John
HBWC
25th June 2009, 10:52 AM
thanks every one the fuel system dont wory me 
i dont need power 
and i hate spark 
the desiel suits me well
plus in my opinion desiel is a lot more reliable
isuzurover
25th June 2009, 10:56 AM
the dimensions of the block crank and flywheel are the same and can be interchanged if you need to. The diesel stuffs just tougher.
if you wanted to do a super cheap diesel you could do it just by swapping the head and injector pump for the dizzy, it wouldnt last long but it would work.
The crank is the same dimensions (diesel crank is forged), but the diesel flywheel is larger and a LOT heavier - from memory it won't fit in a petrol housing.
I know of someone who built a 2.25D using a block and crank from a 2.25P. However I doubt you could get the engine to run properly using a petrol cam.
plus in my opinion desiel is a lot more reliable
The 2.25D often gets a bad rap, but mine has been great - reliable, low maintenance, and very cheap to run.
Newbs-IIA
25th June 2009, 11:30 AM
How easy are the 2.25Ds to rebuild? Are most of the parts easy to get (eg from MR)? I would love a diesel too, even if it means going slower than the 2.25P :p
Has anyone ever turboed a 2.25D? :D
HBWC
25th June 2009, 11:53 AM
this is what i want to do but carnt aford it
"200Di" diesel conversion for Series Land Rovers - by Glencoyne Engineering (http://www.glencoyne.co.uk/200di2.htm)
 
very common in pommy land
Newbs-IIA
25th June 2009, 12:39 PM
I have heard about that conversion, I believe it can be done with a 200Tdi aswell with some modification to the inner guards of the engine bay
JDNSW
25th June 2009, 01:18 PM
How easy are the 2.25Ds to rebuild? Are most of the parts easy to get (eg from MR)? I would love a diesel too, even if it means going slower than the 2.25P :p
Has anyone ever turboed a 2.25D? :D
I believe most if not all parts are readily available, although some can be expensive.  I looked at doing this and decided that the cost of the rebuild would pay for an awful lot of petrol. Of course, having a perfectly good petrol engine, I am in a different position from someone who has a petrol engine needing overhaul.
Landrover turbocharged the engine in the mid eighties, but this was after it had a five bearing crankshaft (almost unheard of in Australia) and had been increased in capacity to 2.5. While later production engines were apparently fairly reliable, the problems encountered (anything from broken crankshafts, to cracked blocks to engines running away to destruction) when they first appeared do not lend a lot of confidence to one off conversions. 
John
isuzurover
25th June 2009, 02:41 PM
How easy are the 2.25Ds to rebuild? Are most of the parts easy to get (eg from MR)? I would love a diesel too, even if it means going slower than the 2.25P :p
Has anyone ever turboed a 2.25D? :D
There were a few kits available to turbo the 2.25D, however as JD says, there are likely to be issues unless the engine is in good nick and the turbo only uses very low boost (at 23:1 CR, you only can use low boost pressures).
Richard Turner (Turner eng UK) built a 2.25D with a 2.5D head and injector pump, and an aftermarket turbo grafted on - this was all just for fun/personal use.
The 2.5TD suffered a design/manufacturing problem with the cam bearings, so they often slipped and blocked the cam oil feed.
A direct injection diesel like the 200Tdi or 300Tdi is probably the best proposition. They are not without issues, but they are 5 bearing, direct injection (more economical, easier to start, and can run higher boost), and plentiful.
I personally can't see the attraction in making a Tdi NA though. Sure it is a simpler install and will be easier on the gearbox (if you leave the standard box in), but if you have the complete turbo setup you may as well use it - you can always just turn down the boost if you are worried about breaking things.
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