View Full Version : CAN YOU BY DOOR SKINS IN AUSTRALIA ??
lardy
25th June 2009, 10:31 PM
Hi all,
Can you buy defender door skins in australia? (not from land rover as i dont want to take out a mortgage) as i have to rebuild them before painting bluey into a greeny,
My mate can build the frames or remanufacture the old ones if they are not too bad.
Oh yeah if anyone wants door frames making that have been powder coated to stop the reaction between steel and ali give me a shout, dunno what he will charge as of yet he is about to make the jig
The company that used to bang out door skins and frames in the u.k. sold up because of his financial crisis ......he had to much money
hiline
26th June 2009, 12:33 AM
Lardy i think these guys have them
but not sure of the quality .............
www.landrovers.com.au (http://www.landrovers.com.au/)
4Wd Spare Parts
304 Middleborough Rd,
Blackburn Sth. Vic 3130
Ph. (03)98900500
worth a try i suppose
Randylandy
26th June 2009, 09:53 AM
Keep us posted with the door frames could be interested. I just scored some defender doors for my S3 fishin truck but the frames are rusted out on the bottoms. Are you in perth?
discowhite
26th June 2009, 11:18 AM
try BMI british motor imports in sydney.
most of LR's panells come out of them.
cheers phil
isuzurover
26th June 2009, 01:54 PM
If your mate is making frames or repair sections I would be interested (depending on price).
Galvanising the frames would be preferable to powdercoating.
Sith
26th June 2009, 02:44 PM
I would be interested in buying 4 doors skins and new frames .. I will get them dipped in Bibra lake Galvinisers ...
keep me in the loop :cool::cool:
Bigbjorn
26th June 2009, 04:04 PM
Any older panel beater tradesman can make door skins.This was a normal trade activity once. Look for guys over 55-60. Their training would predate the days of putting up formwork and calling for the bog truck. The guy that used to do my used car yard work routinely made door skins and other panels like the simpler guards. No trouble to him to cut a turret out of the car, straighten it, and then fit the car to it and hammer weld them together.
lardy
26th June 2009, 05:12 PM
Keep us posted with the door frames could be interested. I just scored some defender doors for my S3 fishin truck but the frames are rusted out on the bottoms. Are you in perth?
yeah i am in perth my mate was round today, he reckons that after looking at mine he should be able to cut and shut them saving heaps.
Once he has done mine i'll get him to assess the cost, he is amazing with metology regards andy
lardy
26th June 2009, 05:23 PM
I would be interested in buying 4 doors skins and new frames .. I will get them dipped in Bibra lake Galvinisers ...
keep me in the loop :cool::cool:
galvanising is no good you will get electrolysis the answer is according to davey my mate is powder coating then once a year bung a load of waxoyl in the door cavity this will disperse any water
lardy
26th June 2009, 05:29 PM
If your mate is making frames or repair sections I would be interested (depending on price).
Galvanising the frames would be preferable to powdercoating.
As indicated to the other response i posted gal wont work you need to seal the inner part of the frame or you will be back to square one and have rotten door bottoms.
I have the possibility of a contact in the u.k. coming up with new door skins cheaper than i have seen in Australia so will keep you posted, we are looking at four weeks for these to be confirmed, worth the wait if we can save a substantial amount overall.
lardy
26th June 2009, 05:36 PM
Lardy i think these guys have them
but not sure of the quality .............
www.landrovers.com.au (http://www.landrovers.com.au/)
4Wd Spare Parts
304 Middleborough Rd,
Blackburn Sth. Vic 3130
Ph. (03)98900500
worth a try i suppose
i sent them a mail the website is somewhat sparse
Offender90
26th June 2009, 05:58 PM
I'd also be keen on a set of 4 galvanised door frames & skins depending on price. Keep us posted.
Regarding powder coating / galvanising - when I fisst looked intpo galvanising doorframes I was concerned about galvanic corrosion due to different electode potentials between zinc and aluminium, but in practice it doesn't happen (think county with galvanised cappings Vs defender painted cappings).
Can't remember the exact reason why (something to do the rate of corrosion and resulting pH levels - isuzurover might be able to offer a better explanation), but suffice to say, I'm convinced its not going to be an issue.
Cheers
Bojan
LandyAndy
26th June 2009, 07:22 PM
If one was to use Sikaflex to glue the skin to the frame there would be NO contact between the skin and frame so no corrosion ever:cool::cool::cool:
Its really good stuff,just make sure you get the correct grade for the job.
Andrew
JDNSW
26th June 2009, 08:33 PM
I'd also be keen on a set of 4 galvanised door frames & skins depending on price. Keep us posted.
Regarding powder coating / galvanising - when I fisst looked intpo galvanising doorframes I was concerned about galvanic corrosion due to different electode potentials between zinc and aluminium, but in practice it doesn't happen (think county with galvanised cappings Vs defender painted cappings).
Can't remember the exact reason why (something to do the rate of corrosion and resulting pH levels - isuzurover might be able to offer a better explanation), but suffice to say, I'm convinced its not going to be an issue.
Cheers
Bojan
The standard electrode potential for Aluminium is -1.66v, for Zinc it is -0.76v and for iron it is +0.085V. Zinc is negative as is aluminium, and is reasonably close to it, so that the cell formed between zinc and aluminium is not very active, unlike that between aluminium and iron (or steel).
John
lardy
26th June 2009, 10:04 PM
If one was to use Sikaflex to glue the skin to the frame there would be NO contact between the skin and frame so no corrosion ever:cool::cool::cool:
Its really good stuff,just make sure you get the correct grade for the job.
Andrew
not strickly true as land rover put a mastic in a have arsed attempt to stop that when they build them up, also they usually stick sealing tape to stretch the panel flat and insulate between ....it has been proven that powder coating works i will stick with that i reckon and a yearly dose of waxoyl
lardy
26th June 2009, 10:09 PM
The standard electrode potential for Aluminium is -1.66v, for Zinc it is -0.76v and for iron it is +0.085V. Zinc is negative as is aluminium, and is reasonably close to it, so that the cell formed between zinc and aluminium is not very active, unlike that between aluminium and iron (or steel).
John
that is appreciated John cheers, would zero be preferable to some reaction long term, and as cheap but effective fixes go which is cheaper as a treatment gal or powder ???
also could you have a gander at a post i have done called aqua rover i have some issues regards andy
isuzurover
26th June 2009, 10:26 PM
galvanising is no good you will get electrolysis the answer is according to davey my mate is powder coating then once a year bung a load of waxoyl in the door cavity this will disperse any water
Your mate is incorrect.
I had 2 sets of door frames galvanised in the mid 90s. One set has been to the beach a few times a year for 15 years, with not much attention paid to cleaning/rustproofing as every steel bit on the body/chassis of the vehicle is galvanised. No problems so far.
The numbers JD posted are for bare Al. Bare Al forms a protective oxide layer. This usually stops it corroding except under certain circumstances. I have an email somewhere from a corrosion researcher here at work which explains why corroding steel turns Al to powder. It doesn't happen with corroding zinc.
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