IRD Rebuild Kits

[101RRS]

While down at Supercheap a little while ago, I was approached by a gentleman whose son's early Freelander had suffered IRD failure. Dad is going to have to try and fix it.

We discussed all the ins and outs and the issue of rebuilds came up. I know there are now rebuild kits available overseas but from I recall they only seem to contain bearings, seals etc. We also discussed whether it is even worth rebuilding a early IRD if the internal gear ratios that caused the problem in the first place are not changed.

So the question is. Has anyone bought a rebuilt kit for an early Freelander and what does the kit contain - in addition to bearings etc, are there revised gears in the kit to correct the gearing problem.

Thanks

Garry

[camel_landy]

Hi Garry,

It might be worth throwing that one at the Freelander forum or even Ashcrofts for comment. ISTR reading about someone reconditioning the IRD on the Freelander forum but can't remember where.

Personally, I'd be surprised to see the new gearing in the recon kit...

M

PS. That wouldn't happen to be the chap who drives around Canberra in a very early, white, 5 door with the black door surrounds??

[Junosi]

The person I sold my old broken IRD to bought an ebay rebuild kit and was planning on marrying my 'good' crown wheel/pinion into her IRD with 'good' front diff.

The kit she bought contained 7 bearings and not much else apparently. There's crown wheels and pinions available for sale (ebay) also, and as far as I'm aware by far the majority of IRD failures is that rear drive gear set. Nothing I've seen for sale would alleviate the initial problem of incorrect gearing though, as input shaft and countershaft remain unchanged.

I've been keeping in vague contact with her to see how the whole thing works out for her.

Clark

[101RRS]

PS. That wouldn't happen to be the chap who drives around Canberra in a very early, white, 5 door with the black door surrounds??

Thanks Mark,

It is a white 5 door but the car is not in Canberra - Queensland I believe.

Cheers

Garry

[101RRS]

Clark - I still have my old IRD which I believe only has damaged rear drive bearings - I was able to drive on it for 3 months after failure in front wheel drive with no abnormal noises or metal appearing in the oil. Yet - was not able to drive above 5kph with the rear drive connected.

If this was rebuild without changing the gearing it would just eat up VCUs again. When my IRD failed at 180,000km it was already on its second VCU.

It is a pity a full upgrade kit was not available.

Thanks

Oh - is yours on the road yet?:D

Garry

[Junosi]

Oh - is yours on the road yet?:D
Garry

Not quite, I'm in the process of repainting it - a slow job in winter. I'm using the 'roller' method with a polyurethane paint and its taking a while between coats due to the temperature. Done a couple of cars with a roller now and had surprisingly good results, and love the look on peoples faces when I tell them I'm rollering a car :p

Other than that its more of less complete - minus VCU and rear window regulator (which should be arriving soon) Hunted around for new tyres and rims for a few months but gave up and sandblasted my old rims before spraypainting them silver - bought new Maxxis 215/75 r15's for them too. Tyres the most expensive item on the car now at $130 each

Rims before and after - $10 worth of spray paint and some tlc.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/76.jpg

[Junosi]

Thought I'd add - here's why I'm painting it

Sun damaged paint - with my Disco in the background
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/75.jpg

Notice the paint on all the upper surfaces, like on the sill under all the glass... The bonnet and roof paint is almost non existant due to sun damage. New colour is Royal Blue, a bit lighter than the orginal blue.

Clark

[101RRS]

Looks like it is coming along well - my Freelander ended up replacing my disco - same model and colour as yours. The freelander is a much nicer car to drive for everyday use.

Keep your eyes open on ebay for 16" alloy rims - I bought four for $120 and the spare for $40.
\
Cheers

Garry

[Elsaan]

Hello I am new to AULRO. I have an April 2000 Freelander with a L Series Diesel, with 160000kms on the clock, and owned it from new. I havent had any trouble with the IRD and changed its oil every 50,000ks. Can anyone tell me if I am lucky enough to have the updated IRD fitted to my vehicle, or am I just lucky. I am a bit scared of the potential replacement cost if it goes.

[BO00YA]

Hello I am new to AULRO. I have an April 2000 Freelander with a L Series Diesel, with 160000kms on the clock, and owned it from new. I havent had any trouble with the IRD and changed its oil every 50,000ks. Can anyone tell me if I am lucky enough to have the updated IRD fitted to my vehicle, or am I just lucky. I am a bit scared of the potential replacement cost if it goes.

Hey there, Welcome to the club. Here is the answer you are looking for http://www.aulro.com/afvb/322200-post15.html

Hope this helps.

[Junosi]

Apart from going by chassis number I don't think there is a way to tell what IRD you've got fitted - 2000 was the cusp year where they changed IRD model. They're not marked with anything that helps identify it. If you do happen to find a way be sure to post it - as I'm dead keen to find out what IRD I've now got in my Flandy :D

[101RRS]

I am not 100% sure but in the diesels I believe the change occurred when the Freelander changed from the L series to TD4 in the Series 2 version of the Freelander 1.

The L series with the old IRD did about 100kph at 3000rpm so if yours is higher geared than that you have a different IRD. My L series now does just under 120kph at 3000 rpm with its newer IRD.

But as I said I am not sure.

Garry

[Jof]

My belief is that the IRD only changes the gearing front-rear,
not the overall gearing?
My L-series is also 120km @ 3000rpm, and I don't remember it changing
when the IRD was replaced.

One check is jack up one side of the car, in neutral and hand brake off, mark the top of both tyres (tape or chalk).
Now start spinning the front wheel clockwise and count each revolution.

If the front turns approx 75 times and the rear 74 times (can't remember exactly the number) you have the old IRD.

If the front turns approx 420 times and the rear 419 times you have the newer type IRD.

This won't tell you which TAG number IRD you have, but if it's the old or new gearing.

[camel_landy]

You could always just look up the part number... IIRC, it's moulded into the casing.

Anyway, the change basically happened when they swapped to TD4.

M

[Elsaan]

Hello Folks, Further to my last posting!!!
I have just returned from a Trip from Central Victoria to up the Oondatta Track accross the Simpson Desert (French Line) to Birdsville, and down the Birdsville track (stranded for a day due to dust storm) to Maree and back home. The trip took 10days and a year of planning and preparation. BUT...... My IRD packed up at Roxby downs (just into the trip) Luckily it didnt happen in the middle of the Simpson.
After $2500 later, and much frustration, we fitted the new one in and continued the trip. The new unit TAG 000230 hopefull no more troubles
The bearing on the drivers side shaft of the old unit had disintegrated and metal filings were spread throughout the unit. Luckily there is no damage to cogs. I only noticed the fault accidentily after I smelled oil whilst parking - the oil seal had come out of its housing, and oil splashed along the floor pan.
Not sure whether to sell the old IRD as is or fit a bearing kit to it. Does anyone know how to remove the oil cooler without damaging it?
Apart from this minor hickup (although expensive) after 160,000km of good reliability, the Freelander climbed 1500 odd sand dunes and kept up with 2 conventional 4wds.
19045

[101RRS]

Well that is a new one - we usually hear of IRD failures where the bearings in the rear drive crown and pinion fail causing the crown and pinion to unmesh and loose a tooth or the bearings just collapse and the lot goes through the IRD wrecking everything.

To actually have bearings on the driveshaft output areas to fail seems a bit odd. I would have thought that they were rebuildable but not where you were.

If you have the time to pull down the IRD and replace these bearings it may be a worthwhile exercise subject to the crown wheel and pinion being OK - it may be also worthwhile just wrecking the IRD and selling off the good bits that usually fail. As as the IRD cooler goes, other than knowing it is delicate and can "rust" out and dump coolant into the IRD I am afraid I cannot help there - and there seems to be little information in the RAVE and Haynes manuals on this. I guess have a play and see what happens.

It looks like you had a great trip - why not post up a trip report with plenty of pics so that some of the doubters (all the non freelander owners) can get an idea what the freelander is actually capable of.

Cheers

Garry

[50cc]

Good one:

some of the doubters (all the non freelander owners)

:D