Alice Springs - Birdsville - Maree - Alice Springs [Archive]

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DeanoH

29th June 2009, 06:52 PM

Barra1

29th June 2009, 07:08 PM

Would it be fair to say that there is not a man nor woman among us who wouldn't like to be doing that trip:D:D

Although the description "trip" is not quite adequate - your trip is more an adventure.;)

Have a great time and keep safe .:):)

lewy

29th June 2009, 07:10 PM

when you are in old andado say good day to the 2 poms looking after the place,they are members here

V8Ian

29th June 2009, 07:24 PM

May the Land Rover Gods go with you, have a great time.

Bushie

29th June 2009, 07:58 PM

when you are in old andado say good day to the 2 poms looking after the place,they are members here

Who is looking after the place now ??

Last year when we went through it was John & Elizabeth ?, they said they were about to leave and vowed they would never spend another summer there. :o

Had pretty good taste in vehicles though (not quite perfect) we arrived in the middle of a pretty good dust storm and they invited us all in for tea and biscuits - most welcome.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/38.jpg

Martyn

BMKal

30th June 2009, 08:57 AM

Have a good trip Deanoh - I'm sure you will enjoy.

That's a great photo there Bushie - almost makes me want to go and flog the Disco and buy myself a Defender.

lewy

30th June 2009, 05:40 PM

this couple as far as i know are about to or are already there.came on a trip whilst in Darwin.Andy and Karen.I hope they know how isolated it is.
Welcome to our Around-the-World in ... Don't know how long adventure. (http://www.landroveradventure.co.uk/web/front.html)

Bytemrk

30th June 2009, 09:09 PM

Lucky buggers....

That sounds like an awesome time ....stay safe.

Mark

digger

1st July 2009, 02:12 AM

Well we're finally off. :):) Tomorrow 5AM. :o

This years expedition is home (Gippsland, Victoria) to Alice Springs in SWMBO's D2 towing a 15' Roma off road van. Leave the van in Alice then off to Mt. Dare via Old Andado Station, has to be one of the most scenic short drives in the centre. Then on to Dalhousie Springs and accross the Simpson Desert to Birdsville. From there to Maree hopefully via the inner track and Goyders Lagoon and on to Maree. Up the Oodnadatta Track and back to Alice via Lake Eyre.

That's the plan anyway.

Deano & Kaye

Deano, just read this post,

I used to live not far from Marree and visit there very often!!
on the way down the Birdsville you need to do these places...

1) visit Mungarannie pub, its about 1/2 way down the track,
as you get to the marree end of the road frontage watch out for the traffic light there!!......anyway inside the pub look for the m/cycle burnout marks where Johnno & Weave (the last owners) tested the strength of the bar by doing a burnout with the front wheel against the newly built bar!!..check out dents in floor from rear wheel of the harley and still some rubber on ceiling.....(there had been a good number of bundys 'used' in the bar construction!!!:D:D)

whlst there look in the carpark... there is a series landy that is "creased" in half...(well creased at the half way point anyhow!)
it was hit by an empty poly watertank from about 500m away that picked up in a storm and blew over and bounced on the landy!!!....look to the trees, the poly tank went on and bounced in and landed in there amongst the bigger gums!!! (its still stuck in there) the other truck is one of tom Kruse's mail trucks (thats Tom Kruse the legend, not tom cruise the dweeby actor bloke!)

At Mungerannie have a SPA!!...yes in the treeline is a natural, artesian spa...its a ripper and overlooks all the birdlife on the wetlands....(yes wetlands, a beautiful area and right next to the pub area!)

if history is your thing walk behind the pub and over the sandhill....the original mungeranie cemetery...
back on the road....

2) drive until you are about 50k out of Marree, you are on CLAYTON station...
this is another BIRDSVILLE TRACK station owned or run by an OLDFIELD...
Shane is a world reknowned (<--spelling?) breeder of 'Australian whaler'... horses...(sorry if i got that wrong...but me and horses dont get on so well!) Shane is pictured in the photo of the outback legendary cowboys...a copy of this one is in Marree front bar...)

At CLAYTON station (which is to your left) you will see a sign to your right (im told there is a sign now anyway!) pointing out the clayton spa and the clayton wetlands...

you can camp (for free) at the clayton spa...
the spa is a polytank about 2.5' deep and about 8' across.
it is fitted with a large ballcock valve which empties the spa into a pipe that takes the water back to the wetlands... (lot of work but very eco-friendly!!!!)

from an artesian bore water is piped across a distance so that it reaches the spa at a nice 56 degrees!... this is put into the spa by a series of smaller balcock valves that are placed about the spa at different heights...

these start cold (water in pipe has cooled) and when is almost to the desired depth youll be running on 56deg water and nice an toasty (even extra warm!)

the idea is that you sit at the tap where you want the jet at your back where its sore and use it to relax!!

This was originally set up by Shane and family (and ringers etc) so they could wash off and relax on their way home after a hard day (they stiill do a lot of work on horseback on CLAYTON station... and It became public use when people were finding it and helping themselves!! (some even told Shane to bugger off when he came in to use it whilst they were there....cheeky sods!

Shane and family set up toilets (that are now replaced with flash flushing ones!!) and a shower...the shower is s small tin shed, with shower curtain 1/2 way and wooden matt... it runs off the same pipe as the spa (eg cold until pipe emptied of standing water...then 56degs) it has a small galv tank on roof and this is for cold water storage (unless its hot up there...then its also hot water!!!!) - remember to lift up the matt (store standing up) and sweep excess water away...so its ok for the next person!)

bring your own firewood (there isnt that much along the track really) and have a camp near the spa, relax in the spa at night and watch the trillions of stars (and quite often shooting stars)...have a coffee/ beer /wine /spirit ....whatever nearby on one of the wire reels they have nearby as tables.you can reach it whilst in the spa...'heaven!!'

It can be windy and there can be flies but usually its right as rain and a great spot....also means a real short jump into Marree in the morning....

The idea is once in, slightly crack the emptying pipe open...lets water out slowly, adjust to desired 'speed', now crack open jet/s you are using and keep a flow of hot, comfy water going!!

when your finished, turn off in taps and turn on out tap!! (there are brooms there to give the spa base a quick scrub...) In the morning, set it going when you get up and cook brekky, eat, then a quick spa and off to Marree after emptying etc!!

(Just a hint!! Pack some bundy or wine in case Shane &/or his missus come over to say Gday and maybe have a spa too!...they are top people...)

also bring some dunny paper (as sometimes it runs out. especially if its busy around the station....its maintained by the oldfields (i think at their cost still) so donate in the coin/note pole outside the crappers...

Ahh just thinking about it makes me pine for it again.....!!!

if you do see the oldfields or call into Marree tell em digger (ex andamooka) says Gday!!

3) headed out of Marree?, head along until you see the station house thats been taken over by the hippes that do art (youll know what I mean when you see it!!!) now when equal with the "hover bus" (I told you they are art/hippies you will see what I mean!!) stop...

Look forward along the road and slowly turn your head to the right...as you do you will see a large mesa (flat top hill), on top of that is the famous MARREE MAN... but its verbotten to go anywhere near it...dont risk it...

further along youll pass the roxby turnoff and there are turnoffs to the:

4)right---lake eyre south lookout....

4b) in the area to your left (just past roxby turnoff) is a large fossil field with fossils including large leafed tree fossils and fish!!..but you wont find it unless you are shown where and I cannot guide you without the appropriate permission. (sorry)

5)a bit further along, to the left--- a sign and short drive to the ruins of strangways springs telegraph station...one of the original telegraph stations (still has one last original pole in the ruins area) ....

6) further along youll see fettlers camps (the 4 roomed buildings alongside the old railway line..)
pull in to your right and look at Curdimurka.... (tracks obvious)
6b) once at the "Curdi" quarters, follow track along back and youll see the
curdimurka railway bridge...its a ripper! back the way you came in...

on the oodna track again....

7) the bubbler...to your left...go and look, its interesting and all signposted nowdays...they even built a walkway thingy there so you can see without disturbing the bubbler... (we used to sit in this pool area and drink etc years ago and camp nearby.... now its 'fragile and no entry" then it wasnt cared about much just occassional visitors!! oops!!)

8) coward springs....
drive in walk about, have a spa (another one!! and different again!)
coward springs (and all these places) was an old railway siding for the ghan..it had pubs and all ther at one stage!... can camp here for a small fee....
wetlands to rear (nth) of coward springs were caused when in abt 1886 the railway sank a bore to get water for the trains...(water was traeted with sulpher (I think) to purify it for the trains etc...that is what the metal towers at these sid ings are for...) this bore pipe leaks somewhere very deep down and obviously never was fixed...hence the 'springs name for the wetland!

YOU ARE ON ANNA CREEK STATION, THE LARGEST SHEEP STATION IN THE WORLD Its another KIDMAN station...

9) william creek pub...
entering william creek watch out for the traffic lights near trev wrights place!!!
william creek & its pub is a great place to be when its a races/gymkhana or other functions weekend... to the north of the pub (other side of the airstrip) is the races setup... big sheds etc really great facility!)

The pub is a great place for a drink (and do a good meal too!) go in and spend an hour or too reading bthe walls and bits and pieces, then start on the ceiling!!,, the rear dining room has some great stuff (history etc) and has photos of the old coward springs hotel (which is long gone although I believe the william creek hotel uses the bar from the coward springs hotel!)

also there is the ruins of the first rocket tested from woomera defence range... (its a tad dented!)...the cafe/caravan park is a nice facility if its open...(subject to whether....as in whether or not its open!) lots of memorabilia in there too!

track splits here,
11)straight ahead for Coober Pedy and the stuart highway... this goes past the place with the longest place name in australia
Lake caddibarrawirracanna (known locally as lake caddi) when it fills after good rain the people from coober pedy water ski on this lake (true!)

12) right at the sign near the william creek pub and youre still on the oodna track....

*-look for a massive railway bridge, built for the ghan line, that is world famous for its construction and location (and when it was built)

*- old ruins along the way...

*- OODNADATTA!!.. check out the pink roadhouse!! try an oodna burger!

*- See the outdoor cinema and drive in!

the pink roadhouse supplied all the 44gal drum lid info signs youve been seeing with the pink tops!

from OODNA its choice time again... (talk to the locals)

left.....coober pedy via mt barry and the painted desert...
(coober has lots to do, and also has the "breakaways"...to be viewed at sunrise or preferrably at sunset with a seat, a drink and a camera (the colours change!)

right goes to;

*- mt dare station (now a national parks and wildlife station/post)
then into WITJARA national park and to DALHOUSE SPRINGS...
DALHOUSIE is an old outpost with a warm thermal pool/spring for swimming in
(does anyone pick up a theme here!???) nice camp spot...
(need a desert parks pass from NPWS, at Mt dare or oodna....worth it as it has maps etc with it....and they do spot checks on passes etc

or

*- MARLA (and the stuart highway south from the sa/nt border)
or

*- CHAMBERS PILLAR and on through finke etc...
ending up in ALICE...

years ago I stayed at the WRIGLEYS WATERHOLE, or WIGLEYS WATERHOLE just out of ALICE...great spot, arrive to pool of still water, but walk past that to a great swimming hole...with beach like sides... we set up ....err..... maybe we found a swinging rope off the tree into the water...top spot...

hope some of this helps.... I truely hope you get it!!! sorry its so long!

cheers (and lots of photos please!)

digger

DeanoH

2nd July 2009, 07:48 PM

Thankyou all for your input.

Digger, I can't thank you enough for the detail. We've been to Old Andado and to Dalhousie on a previous trip but not down the Birdsville Track or to Goyders Lagoon. We'll certainly follow up on your suggestions.

Left Victoria on what has to be one of the stormiest days for a long time. Cold, wet, windy and miserable weather all the way into SA. We chose the Adelaide route this time with the van. Figured the Adelaide Hills was the lesser of two evils when compared to Horrocks Pass, though in fairness both routes are pretty good now. Hit some terrible gales just out of Keith. Kaye said to look out for the "Landy on a pole" but I was too busy trying to stay on the road and dodge debris. Eventually pulled up just out of Keith and let the worst of it pass. Met a bloke the next day whose awning was ripped off his van as he was travelling along. Spent the night at a roadside stop near Crystal Brook.

Next day through Pt. Augusta and plenty of broken trees and off up the South road.

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Lake Hart just North of Port Augusta has plenty of water and looks a lot better than the pic.

Next night at Marla and on to Alice Springs arriving today at about 2 PM.

Good road all the way, SWMBO's disco going like a dream though fuel consumption will have been fairly crook punching into the weather. Today was OK though I havn't worked it out yet.

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This Native Miner wasn't to be detered. This squashed sweet was in the middle of the driveway at the Marla fuel pumps.

Anyway, public hol. here in the Alice tomorrow for the Annual Show, so should be a good day. Last week Finke Races, this week the show, next week the Camel Cup theres always something happening here.

Saturday I get the bull bar fitted. Ran out of time to get it done before leaving home. After much agonising settled on the ECB aluminium bar. I'm very weight concious and although probably not as strong as steel at least it's gussetted at the ends for additional strength.

Sunday it's off to Old Andado. It's interesting to read about caretakers. When we were there two years ago there were no caretakers but a hand written sign welcoming visitors and a request to put the camping fee in a tin on the kitchen table. Kaye and I remarked at the time that it was good that people still showed trust and had faith in strangers to do the right thing.

"With the best yet to come.................."

Kaye and Deano.

dullbird

2nd July 2009, 08:54 PM

Native that looks brown ????

Koukandowie Brangus

3rd July 2009, 08:37 AM

3 degrees here in alice this morning, hope you brought your winter woolies:):)
crystal clear days though

DeanoH

4th July 2009, 10:09 PM

Well it's all hapening here in the Alice!

Did I mention that its Show week here? Kaye and I along with 10,000 others attended yesterday and it was a great event. Finale tonight was a fireworks display which was impressive.

Pig racing was a favourite with young and old.

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Armed forces recruiters had a display with what must be one of the Armys oldest operational vehicles, a Landy 110.

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Took a while but found the cattle just in time for the 'Junior Handler' judging.

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Next weeks the camel races but we'll miss that. Off to Old Andado in the morning. Fuelled up and stocked up today, bullbar fitted and looks good. In an earlier post someone referred to the ECB bar as being 'pants' which I think was less than flattering, but then again my youngest once told me something was 'totally sick' which meant it was OK ? Never the less it's on now and Kayes happy with it :cool: and after all it is her Disco. I'm allowed to drive it (sometimes) and pay for the accessories, maintenance etc.

Dullbird, I checked my bird book and of course there's no mention of a 'Native Miner', it's actually a Yellow Throated Miner which looks similiar to the Common Myna, sometimes called Indian Myna which is an imported pest. My fault for using colloqual names instead of proper ones.

As TREX noted it gets cool inland at night so Kaye will just have to cuddle closer :D:D:D. What's that dear ?......................you've got your thermals. I think I've just been rejected.

Interesting point for travellers unused to the centre and places further North. Up here petrol sniffing is a major problem with the indigenous locals. To overcome this BP has developed a non-aromatic petrol called 'Opal'. It costs the same as normal unleaded fuel and comes in regular and premium grades. Whilst it is good that it reduces petrol sniffing it can be a trap for the unwary traveller. Opal petrol does NOT smell (very much) and is pale yellow to clear in colour. Double check your bowser when you fill up as you cannot rely on your nose to tell you its not diesel. I've come accross several travellers who have been caught out by this. It gets worse as you get further from 'civilisation' you cannot rely on the coloured plastic shrouds on pump nozzles to denote whats being pumped. I've had diesel with red, yellow, black and no shrouds at all. So check and double check your pump when you fill.

Don't know when I'll next be able to access the internet, hopefully Birdsville but there was no mobile coverage when I was there 2 years ago. I'm typing this up on a Panasonic Toughbook and 'interneting' using a USB NextG connection.

Kaye & Deano.

DeanoH

26th July 2009, 09:44 AM

Well here we are back in the Alice. Not much in the way of internet access on the way around so I'll try and fill in the gaps from here. Kaye and I some good bird and wildflower shots which I'll put in Camera Cnr.

Deano

DeanoH

26th July 2009, 10:14 AM

A scenic and interesting drive over varying terrain with differing scenery.

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It’s an easy drive of about 450 Km with fuel available at Mt Dare which is the last fuel before crossing the Simpson Desert. You can do it in a day if you’re in a hurry, we weren’t so did it in two with a stop over at Old Andado Station. This place is a time warp of what station homestead existence was like in the past. Molly Clark, a living outback pioneer now in her eighties lived here for over twenty years and the building and contents are something out of the late 19th & early 20th century’s. Current caretakers are Andy and Karen who were mentioned in an earlier post. They’re a pair of poms and great people, with a D2 TD5, and had been there for three days of their two month stint when we went through. Karen was especially looking forward to spending summer there !! I don’t think she really appreciates what 50 degrees in the shade and zero humidity is all about. What is even more interesting is that their replacement who will be there from November to March is from Alaska. At least she’ll know what zero humidity is about.

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Just before Old Andado is the Mac Clark (Molly Husband who died in the 1960’s) Conservation Reserve which has over 2000 examples of rare Acacia Peuce or Waddy tree. These are a scruffy looking acacia of up to about 5m tall and are thought to be several hundred years old. They were widely used by early settlers for fence posts and such as the wood is strong and hard as the hobs of hell. You can’t cut it with an axe, it doesn’t burn and you can’t get a nail into it.
From Old Andado there’s two routes to Mt Dare. The direct route is the most scenic and goes through thickly wooded country in part but also has some thick bulldust sections. Don’t even think about using this section if it’s been raining; take the safe route through New Crown. Re-fuel at Mt Dare or you would if they hadn’t run out of fuel and were ferrying diesel over in 1000 litre lots from New Crown. No petrol at all. Unavailability of fuel is not unusual in the outback. Weather, bad roads, power failure and even forgetfulness can mean no fuel when you want it. It’s always a good idea to carry enough fuel to get to the fuel stop after the next one. Finally got diesel and off to Dalhousie Springs.
Like a fool I had forgotten that there’s a choice of two routes to Dalhousie and took the shortest distance one. Fifteen Km’s later I’ve put a rock through the sidewall of one of my new Cooper ST’s. Fortunately it was a front tyre which meant I picked it up straight away and didn’t totally trash the tyre or rim. Running 28 psi and doing 30 Km/h that’s the way it goes. Back to Mt Dare for repairs. New tyre becomes spare no. 2 with huge patch on inside. Can’t complain too much though; first flat in over 10 years. Off to Dalhousie Springs again this time via the longer distance, shorter time and cheaper route via Blood Creek. Arrive 4 o’clockish and set up camp.
One of the main features here is the springs themselves and the associated waterhole, at a constant 34 degrees C. The night time temperature can get down to freezing here and one of the attractions is a dawn swim.

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Campground has good toilet and shower (cold) facilities. The old Dalhousie homestead ruins are 10 Km or so down the road and well worth a look.

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From here its about 450 Km in a straight (French) line to Birdsville on the other side of the Simpson Desert.

Deano & Kaye

DeanoH

26th July 2009, 10:41 AM

The most direct route across the Simpson Desert from Dalhousie Springs to Birdsville is about 460 Km in a straight line. Most travellers cross West to East as the sand dunes which run basically North South have a gentler slope on the West side due to wind action which makes them easier to drive over. This straight line track is named the French Line after the French petroleum company who constructed it in the 1960’s when surveying for oil. It runs East North East from Dalhousie Springs to Poeppel Corner (the junction of the NT, SA & Qld borders). From there you pop up North approx. 20 Km along the edge of Lake Poeppel to pick up the QAA line which takes you East and across many dunes including Big Red to Birdsville. This is the most direct route, it is also the roughest and arguably least scenic. There are other East West tracks across the Simpson, notably the WAA line and the rig road. These are crossed by Colsons Track, Erabena Track, Knolls Track and the K1 Line which all travel in a basically North South direction. There is also Warburton track which connects the East end of the Rig Road to the Birdsville Track about 210 Km South of Birdsville. So what you have is a grid layout giving many combinations of paths to cross the Simpson Desert.
The Simpson Desert was first crossed by car in the early 1960’s by a group led by Reg Sprigg who also resurveyed Poeppel Corner. The original corner post was replaced and the old one sent to the Adelaide museum. There’s a monument to the party outside the Birdsville pub. Reg is perhaps better known as the SA State Geologist and founder of Geosurveys which later became SANTOS. On retirement Reg and his wife Griselda went on to set up the Arkaroola wilderness resort in the Gammon ranges North of the Flinders Ranges.
We chose a route to take us along the French Line to Wonga Corner and down to the WAA Line picking up the Rig Road to Knolls Track and then North to the French Line at Lindsay Junction and on to Birdsville. This route took us past the ‘Lone Gum’ and the ‘Approdinna Attora Knolls’, two major points of interest in the Simpson Desert Reserve. The Rig Road was originally constructed to allow heavy drilling equipment access into the desert and is still in reasonably good condition today, 40 years later. The dune crossings of soft sand were dug out back to clay and approach and departure ramps constructed, also of clay which was dug from the ‘swales’ at the base of the dunes. This gave access to drilling rigs in the 1960’s and gives good access today, a lot more pleasant to drive over than the French Line.
A common situation; which path to take and look out for oncoming traffic.

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The road from Dalhousie Springs to Purni Bore (66 Km) is reasonably easy going but pretty corrugated in places with some sandy stretches.

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Purni Bore is a good stop over point whether for lunch or overnight. It has toilets and hot/cold showers fed from the bore. There is a good camp site on the East side of the ‘waterhole’, about 200 metres down from the picnic shelter.

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From here it’s another 29 Km down the French Line to Wonga Corner and a further 13 Km South to Mokan Airstrip and the WAA Line. Again, fairly easy going. This is a good overnight or break stop and is fairly sheltered at the base of a large dune with some shelter bushes. Good view from top of the dune looking across the airstrip to the WAA line

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Here’s Kaye getting the picture ‘just right’. Takes her photography pretty seriously does SWMBO.

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Past the airstrip it’s 35 Km of reasonably good travelling to Georges Corner and the Rig Road. Spent the night here camped on the corner watching the sun go down and marvelling at the stars. It’s amazing how much more you can see with no interfering lights. Next day continued down the Rig Road via Walkandi Junction stopping at the ‘Lone Gum Tree’ and camping on the side of the track near Knolls Junction. Total distance today about 125 Km over dunes and increasingly sandy and corrugated stretches. The ‘Lone Gum Tree’ is interesting; it’s a Coolabah tree which is usually found in swamps and on the banks of rivers. You don’t expect to find one in the middle of a desert, miles from the nearest river. The late afternoon colours and the view from the dune top are fantastic.

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Next morning it’s 9 Km to Knolls Track where we head North and back to the French Line. A distance of 41 Km and very sandy as the track is on the Eastern edge of a dune most of the way to the Approdinna Attora Knolls.
An interesting point here on tyre pressures. In Kaye’s D2 we ran 16 psi in the front and 18 psi in the rear with 255/70R16 Cooper ST’s. I was slack in the morning when I checked the tyre pressures and left the front RHS tyre 1 psi higher than the front LHS. With the sun on the RHS of the car the RHS tyres increased an additional 2 psi. This variation of 3 psi resulted in the steering wheel being 45 degrees out of true when steering in a straight line and the Disco was ‘crabbing’ up the track. At first I thought I had a flat tyre, but re-adjusting the tyre pressures fixed the problem. I never would have thought a couple of psi would make so much difference. Obviously a couple of psi at these low pressures makes a big difference. After this I checked tyre pressures several times a day and adjusted accordingly.
You need to look out for the ‘ships of the desert’ and their foot prints often follow the tracks for many Km’s. This one obviously hit an iceberg.

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Just before Lindsay Junction and the French Line is the Approdinna Attora Knolls, two gypsum based hills, fairly boring anywhere else but in a desert you take what scenery you can get. Good view from the top though with good camping either side in treed areas. Four more K’s to the French Line, lunch and met another group of Landys. Over the last three days, since leaving the French Line, Kaye remarked that we’d seen thirteen vehicles. A group of six Disco’s from the NSW Range Rover Club who kindly gave us a copy of their club magazine, a group of two Toyota’s and a Mitsubishi, a single Toyota at Lindsay Corner and now three more Landys. Out of a total of fourteen 4WD’s, including us, ten were Landys.

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From here to Poeppels Corner it’s a very sandy, rutted and shock absorber heating 40 Km’s. A very unpleasant piece of driving. This section of track was the worst of the whole crossing. If you need a section of track to prove that factory shockers are just not up to it then this is it. I’d considered upgrading before leaving home but put it off, silly me. I’m getting Pedders Foam Cell shockers fitted here in Alice Springs on Monday, before we head North to the Gibb River Road. The GRR mind you is like a super highway when compared to the Simpson, but we will be towing a van.
From Poeppels Corner it’s a short 1.6 Km to the edge of Lake Poeppel and a high speed (don’t forget low tyre pressures) 20 Km run up the side of the dried lake (K1 line) to the QAA line. Camped in a swale a couple of K’s from Poeppels Corner. A swale’s the flat bit between sand dunes.
The road ahead.

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From here it’s an easy 110 Km run up and over a hundred or more dunes to Big Red and a further 30 Km to Birdsville. Normally this can be done in 4 hours or so but the flooding of Eyre Creek means a 60 Km detour to get to the other side. Camped the night at the Eyre Creek crossing point. Ford was about a foot deep with good rock bottom and about 30 metres wide. Beautiful spot at the base of a big dune, shade trees, birdlife, plenty of firewood, river and had it all to ourselves. It’s a tough life but someone has to do it.
If birdlife and wildflowers is your thing then this is the place to be. You could spend a week here and not be bored.

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Not including the detour it’s about 18 km from Eyre Creek to Big Red, the highest sand dune in the Simpson at 40 metres, and it’s quite a straight forward run. Up and over Big Red, Kaye did it last time so now it was my turn. Dropped the tyres down a further 2 psi to 14 psi on the front and 16 psi on the rear and sailed over with no problems at all. 3000 rpm in H2 no problem.
There’s fun for all on Big Red

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Note

Kaye’s Disco is automatic with the TD5 diesel and has slightly larger diameter tyres, 255/70 as opposed to 255/65. Did 90% of the crossing in H2 (auto), including sand dunes with the centre diff. locked, venturing briefly into H3 for the run up Lake Poeppel. Didn’t use low range at all, didn’t need to. Didn’t need H1 except to start the vehicle moving and didn’t kick down at any stage. Carried 30 litres of additional diesel in 10 litre containers, 10 litres of engine oil and 40 litres of water along with camping gear for two and food for 10 days.
Did 722 Km’s between Mt Dare and Birdsville and used 117 litres of diesel. For a straight run down the French Line and QAA line, approx. 500 Km, the Disco would have done it on the main tank with fuel to spare. But remember, if you get a fuel leak spare fuel is essential.
The good photo’s are Kaye’s, the crappy ones mine.

The Disco did it easy and with better shocks would have done it even easier. We have Polyair bags on the rear which are not only great for towing but save the rear suspension from bottoming out when the shockers get too hot. Recommended.

Deano & Kaye

Barra1

26th July 2009, 11:21 AM

Deano and Kaye - a fantastic trip report and thank you for sharing the trip with us.:)

DeanoH

5th August 2009, 12:23 AM

Across the Simpson to Birdsville was a great trip, but far from being the end of the road Birdsville is the start of the next stage. I used to think Birdsville was the ‘end of the road’ but actually it’s the start. However you get here there’s a great choice of routes to leave; North to Mt Isa the Gulf and the top end, West across the Simpson Desert and into the Centre, East through the channel country and the rest of Queensland and for us South down the Birdsville track to Maree and back to Alice Springs.
Birdsville is a small town in about as far South West Queensland as you can get. Originally a stock route stop-over, Birdsville’s main industry today is tourism. It has a pub, general store/garage, Post Office/general store, bakery, Police Station, Medical Clinic, Art Gallery and that’s about it. Fuel is sold at the general store and at the Post Office. Birdsville also has a big camping ground/caravan park. It covers approx. 10 hectares around a large artesian fed lake. In September for the Birdsville cup there can be 3000 people camping there. If you’re into water birds Birdsville is the place to be. A number of birds are transiting through here to Lake Eyre at the moment including Pelicans, Cormorants, various Plovers, Ducks, Egrets, Dotterels, Herons, Spoonbills and Ibis to name a few.
Just on sunset a flock of about 400 or so Corellas came in to roost only to be chased off by a solitary Whistling Kite. Their perches were immediately taken over by a flock of several hundred Nankeen Herons.

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Leaving Birdsville down the ‘Birdsville Track’ to Marree it’s hard to believe that this used to be one of the most feared and dangerous roads in the country. Its come a long way since ‘Tom’ Kruse started his mail run in the 1930’s and the Page family perished there in 1963. It’s now a 500 Km dirt ‘super highway’. I did it at 80 Km/h; most could do it safely at 100 Km/h.
One point of interest along the way is the Mount Gason wattle project. It is not known how these rare and unique Acacias (Acacia pickardii) reproduce so these may be the last.

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It’s a fairly desolate and on the day wind/sand swept run stopping over at Mungerannie, a converted station homestead, for the night. The camp ground along the tree line is fairly open to the North West but if you drive along to the Eastern end it drops down to a beautiful sheltered area overlooking a small lagoon with several good campsites.

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‘Tom’ Kruse the legendary Birdsville Track mailman did this run fortnightly from the mid 1930’s until 1963. He was awarded a MBE for his efforts in getting the ‘Royal Mail’ through. He assisted with Madigans expedition in the thirties and the mail run was the subject of a movie ‘Back of Beyond’ in the 1950’s. One of his old mail trucks, a 1930’s Leyland Badger, was restored in the 1980’s and a documentary was made by the ABC of the ‘last’ mail run from Birdsville featuring a 80 year old ‘Tom’ Kruse driving to Marree. This truck cabin is all that remains of one of ‘Tom’ Kruse’s trucks on display at Mungerannie.

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South of Mungerannie is the remains of the Mulka homestead store, the 5 Km wide Cooper Creek floodway, and Clayton Station Wetlands. Through Etadunna Station is a monument to Ralph Milner a pioneer who took up the South Australian governments challenge to drive stock from South to North across the continent in 1863. Despite seven years of drought, the death of his wife, the murder of his brother by aborigines and the loss of much stock he succeeded. The SA government reneged on the 1000 pound ($2000) reward because of a change of government. Guess some things don’t change.
Re-fuelled at Marree and out to Muloorina waterhole, turn off the Oodnadatta Track about 2 Km North of Marree; its 54 Km on good dirt road. A good sheltered camp spot on a small lagoon it’s on private property and has flushing toilets but no showers.

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Again plenty of bird life and access to the bottom end of Lake Eyre and Lake Eyre South. Didn’t drive up as there was no water this far South and the track was a bit ordinary. Had to be careful cutting the firewood though.

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From Muloorina waterhole to William Creek and a drive and fly sortie out to Lake Eyre. Kaye took the fly over and reckoned it was OK, I wimped out and stayed on the ground. The drive out to the lake was fairly ordinary and when you get there it’s bleak, barren, and windswept with no shade. The water was about 1 Km out and inaccessible. Not smart walking on damp clay pans. Not worth the drive really and you certainly wouldn’t want to camp there. Camp ground opposite the William Creek pub is a much better bet, though the showers didn’t work, no water pressure. There’s a cairn to ‘Caroline Grossmueller perished 11 Dec 1998’ on the track out to Lake Eyre. You can only wonder what someone would be doing out here in December. I couldn’t help thinking of the nice ‘pommy’ Karen at Old Andado Station who was ‘looking forward’ to spending summer in the desert. What was it Noel Coward said about ‘Mad dogs and Englishmen’ and the midday sun.
It worries me that people come to the outback in summer with absolutely no idea of how lethal it can be. Ultimately I think it’s a good idea that the Simpson Desert will be closed over summer. Death is far too high a price to pay for ignorance.

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From William Creek it’s further North up the Oodnadatta Track and into the old Peake Telegraph Station. It’s 15 Km off the road on a fair to rough dirt track, says 4WD only but isn’t, family in front of us had no problem in a Hi-Ace van. Well worth the trip in to look at this piece of history and to camp if you wish. Buildings and relics in quite good nick as is the site of the turn of the century copper smelter. Toss a bit of ore into the camp fire and watch the green flames

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It’s 85 Km further up the track to the Painted Desert turn off. It’s about 100 Km in on good dirt road and well worth the trip. Stayed the night at Arckaringa Station campground; firewood supplied and great hot showers. Well worth the $20. Great scenery and photo opportunities.

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Back to the Oodnadatta Track and into Oodnadatta itself. A fairly forgettable town, like a big rubbish dump really. Re-stock, re-fuel and move on. Don’t plan on camping here. Next stop Eringa Waterhole. Turn off the Oodnadatta track 17 Km out of town and head through the Pedirka Desert to Eringa. Used to be a Kidman Station but abandoned in the 1950’s as too harsh and uneconomic. Beautiful shady waterhole and ideal camp site. Easy place to spend a couple of days.

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From Eringa it’s about 100 Km into Finke. Finke is an aboriginal community and is better known as the starting point of the annual Finke to Alice Springs desert race which was run a month or so previously. The race course parallels the old Ghan railway easement which is now a 4WD track into Alice Springs which is the route we took. Its 240 Km to Alice with 150 of them following the old railway line. This is a very corrugated and pot holed track. It is littered with dozens of old railway spikes and it is due more to good luck than good management not to spike a tyre or two. The terrain is quite interesting with railway ruins and travels through mulga and desert she oak forest. This route has not been graded and still has railway sleepers in some sections.

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This is an interesting route but not one I’ll take again. I reckon the Alice Springs auto repairers will want to keep it exactly the way it is.
The last 80 Km into Alice is good dirt road and is being upgraded to all weather dirt.
The flower and plant life has been amazing, enough for a post in Camera corner. I’ll do this as time allows. Here’s a couple to go on with, taken at Peake Telegraph Station. I’ve no idea what the red/green plant is the other I know as a ‘Hop Bush.

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A couple of days R&R in Alice Springs and its off to the Kimberley.

As usual the good pics are Kayes the ordinary ones mine.

Deano and Kaye.