1955 S1 rebuild

[shamirj]

I have commenced rebuilding a swb s1 1955 model and have stripped all except motor/gearbox and diffs so far. I am setting aside bits needing galvanising at present and have part painted in silver the chassis (rear only) the chassis is really good except for the front. hopefully i can see it thru to the end. the wiring is a bit of a worry and headache. look fwd to the rebuild especially the rebuild once all is stripped and the rebuild can commence. tub is not bad for age, have most parts but will need obvious new parts to complete. will try and keep the pics coming. cheers:)

[lane]

Yes, all the best with it. Nice big garage/shed there too, which always helps. :)

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Will keep watching your progress Joe.

[olmate]

Good stuff mate - I will be watching ;)

[shamirj]

Hi all,

I have stripped more of my S1 :) and have removed the tub and have cleaned underneath with a drill steel bit :mad:but want to use my new toy a portable sand blaster which i bought air powered:D. couldnt use it before as my sand was normal sand and wet so hoses got blocked. bunnings say heat the sand then use:wasntme:. has anyone any experience using a sand blaster. mine has a hose which connects to the sand supply and is long which draws more power to push the sand out. sorry no pic.:angel: i think u can buy other material off ebay to replace the sand? do these units work well?

also noted the front shocks has a what looks to be a twin mount per wheel. is this common? :):cool:

[series1buff]

yes , Ive had a go at it .

My advice is : for the large items , chassis , wheels and stuff, take it to a professional blaster . Its a horrid process, its dirty, noisy, and can be very hazadous to your health. It can cause tinnitus in your ears .. the noise is very high .... over 100db .

For smaller items , use a cabinet . Cabinets are the only way to go, but they need to be set up correctly with a dust extractor . They are easy to make from plywood . The sand is re cycled . Plans are on the web for cabinets .

This is my advice ..I have tried it all , over 30 years of stuffing around ... Another trick is electolosis rust removal ... very cheap and effective.

[Maffra]

I am told very silly to use plain old silicon type sand that you buy in hardware stores etc for sand blasting. The dust is very bad for health. Leads to silicosis in the lungs. Best to get proper blasting medium like garnet or the like.
Regards

[shamirj]

why do i have two shock mounts on the front - see pic one on outer side of chassis and the other on the inside.

rear tub removed cleaned painted (undercoat) of that black undersealer stuff.

part way thru chassis cleaned and painted undercoat with rust inhibitor in silver.

still need to remove box and engine. some chassis repairs completed. one gearbox mount broken so rewelded.

sandblasting on small bits done as trial run but had to heat the sand to dry out then sprayed. works ok but a lot of work to set up. prob easier with wire brush on a drill. cheers:)

[JDNSW]

why do i have two shock mounts on the front - see pic one on outer side of chassis and the other on the inside.
.....

Not standard, and I have never seen it before on a S1. I assume a previous owner has felt the need for more damping at the front than can be provided by one shock absorber.

John

[shamirj]

after much cleaning with wire drill i managed to get the underneath of the tub cleaned and roughly painted for now. previous owner has placed heavy items in back so has a small curve to the floor. hammered back into shape but needs more work. bonnet has been stripped as well and will need some attention. enjoy the pics :p

[shamirj]

hi All,

completely cleaned out the exterior of the fuel tank on my 55 model. primed and sealed the exterior and hit it with a gloss black painted finish. looks good needs one more coat to fininsh off thou. sorry no pics.

Question - went to supercheap and repco to buy some sort of sealer for the fuel tank (internal) does not leak but thought it good preventative maintenance whilst tank out and could not find any.:( names of a liquid sealer or brand name and cost please. :D

Im assuming there is a liquid type sealer that you either brush on or swirl the tank around to seal any gaps.

Motor and box still in situ on chassis but hopefully this week will get both out. Rear spring front bolt wont come out tried hammering turns but is stuck in. will try some more wd40 i think its not threaded so can hammer more. air gun rattle gun cant spin. should i hammer the bolt out or not. cheers:)

[Lost Landy]

With the spring eye bolt sounds like its sized to the spring bush, i wouldnt keep bashing away at it as it rarely works best bet would be to use a hack saw & cut the bolt between the spring and where it mounted onto the chassis. Also make sure the vehicle is well surported.

[shamirj]

Well finally last night the gearbox came out :D:D:D had already removed most bolts previously but removing without a jack is hard work so i dropped the box to the floor and then raised the rear with a hi lift jack done. as the overdrive was taken out the oil drained all over the garage floor :mad::mad::mad: bugger. spent some time cleaning up though need more time to clean completely.

spring bolt at rear still no go though - wanna remove the rear axle/spring but one bolt is holding me up.:mad:it turns with a lot of force but wont come undone. thought of grinding both ends but then im left with the piece in the centre. hammering has been useless. wd40 no effect either. any other suggestions:angel:

need to move the box out of the garage for now and get onto stripping the engine off the chassis. took the clutch off but not the flywheel yet though all bolts removed. box turns by hand no probs. but engine wont turn at all. this was where my prob was with the engine seizing. should the engine turn by hand. starter still in. i will remove and look under the sump for any probs but thats where the prob lies. chain is on and ok. surely with the motor stripped of most parts the crankshaft should turn, am i right?:(

will post pics next week when i get a chance. wanna start again on the chassis repaint and clean up.:)

[series1buff]

With the spring eye bolt sounds like its sized to the spring bush, i wouldnt keep bashing away at it as it rarely works best bet would be to use a hack saw & cut the bolt between the spring and where it mounted onto the chassis. Also make sure the vehicle is well surported.

Yes it seems to be a fairly common problem on older landies ... the front off side shackle bolt was seized on my 107" ..No amount of persuading would make it move . I cut it off with a thin cutting disc from memory ..I managed to insert the disc between the hanger and the spring..not much room there but it did work OK.. hacksaw is slow and laborious . Once the spring is removed its easy to press out whats left of the bolt . They tend to rust in place .

[shamirj]

Happy as Larry:):) Thx for the many suggestions and I successfully removed the seized bolt last night after grinding as suggested between the hangers and spring. Rear axle out and the night before the box came out as well.

Lookin at the rear springs not sure whether to reset them or just buy replacement new ones. Trying to keep within a budget but are the springs worth cleaning up and re using or am i wasting time with them. Melb firm retails springs approx $130 each. what have others done with their older springs. Not sure of cost to re set them and whether that included cleaning them up and painted them as well.

Need to store this stuff out of garage as i hate being swamped with parts and not having leg room to move about.

My next headache is removing the engine block minus head (already removed) and the front axle so can complete the cleanup of the chassis. Wish i had a engine hoist. Work thru out some older hoists for lifting disabled patients out of bed would have worked a treat for the engine but too late for that.

flywheel still wont rotate:mad: need to lighten the load of the engine so then i can raise the chassis and slide from underneat or drop the chassis & pull block out. bought some supercheap blue engine enamel cant wait to spray the stuff on. hope the one can will last as i intend to do the sump black.

firewall complete except for paint now. paint sealer used. petrol tank partially complete. needs another coat of black paint.

tie rod ends are proving a prob as well - whats the easiest way to pop them out. nut is off or loose but the tie rod end will not dislodge even with hammering or wd40. any suggestions please. cheers

[Lotz-A-Landies]

.... Melb firm retails springs approx $130 each. what have others done with their older springs. ...I bought some of the springs for the front of my '51, from the mob in Melbourne with the great catalogue but not always parts quality and service to match.

The big problem was that even with the engine in place the capstan fitted and me jumping up and down on the chassis there was no perceivable movement in the springs.

I removed them, found some good quality second hand springs, linished them with a "flap disk", fitted new bushes. When fitted up they have the movement that springs are designed to have.

The other springs are now on a trailer that has a habit of getting overloaded.

Diana

[series1buff]

Happy as Larry:):) Thx for the many suggestions and I successfully removed the seized bolt last night after grinding as suggested between the hangers and spring. Rear axle out and the night before the box came out as well.

Lookin at the rear springs not sure whether to reset them or just buy replacement new ones. Trying to keep within a budget but are the springs worth cleaning up and re using or am i wasting time with them. Melb firm retails springs approx $130 each. what have others done with their older springs. Not sure of cost to re set them and whether that included cleaning them up and painted them as well.

Need to store this stuff out of garage as i hate being swamped with parts and not having leg room to move about.

My next headache is removing the engine block minus head (already removed) and the front axle so can complete the cleanup of the chassis. Wish i had a engine hoist. Work thru out some older hoists for lifting disabled patients out of bed would have worked a treat for the engine but too late for that.

flywheel still wont rotate:mad: need to lighten the load of the engine so then i can raise the chassis and slide from underneat or drop the chassis & pull block out. bought some supercheap blue engine enamel cant wait to spray the stuff on. hope the one can will last as i intend to do the sump black.

firewall complete except for paint now. paint sealer used. petrol tank partially complete. needs another coat of black paint.

tie rod ends are proving a prob as well - whats the easiest way to pop them out. nut is off or loose but the tie rod end will not dislodge even with hammering or wd40. any suggestions please. cheers

Old timers used to reset springs by hammering them.. you use a anvil and a heavy hammer ....you need to be fit to attempt this....use leather gloves etc.

Disassemble the spring ... place each leaf over the horn of the anvil and hit it repeatedly with the heavy hammer ..the blows somehow revitalise the spring....some people say the springs have a memory ... and the internal molecules are bounced back to their original position by hammering . Don't do this on a cold Winters day as the leaves might crack..it's best done on a warm day .....lay the leaves out in the sun for an hour first to warm them up.. Trouble is anvils are not common these days ... every town had them when horses were for transport , farriers etc.

...

[chazza]

Happy as Larry:):)

tie rod ends are proving a prob as well - whats the easiest way to pop them out. nut is off or loose but the tie rod end will not dislodge even with hammering or wd40. any suggestions please. cheers

Sounds like the threads have rusted together. Try heating them up with an oxy set and turning the tie rod end whilst hot. If it moves, soak it in penetrating oil and try again when it has cooled. I don't think heat will alter the strength of the rods but someone on here might know differently.

If you can save the rods, use Loctite Anti-seize, or similar, on them when you put the new ends in,

Cheers Charlie

[Lost Landy]

When i was doing my Automotive Apprenticeship we were always told never to heat up any componat that is part of the steering as it can soften it & lose strength.
Just my 10c worth.

[shamirj]

:):):) here is the latest photo in the garage, rear axle removed now the front remaining and the engine block. :D:D its hard going but will be enjoyable at the completion of the project though that seems a long way away:angel::angel:

[lane]

In case you're not aware, you should hit the tie-rod on the end so that the shock is directed down the tie-rod. The effect is to expand the "ring" which sits over the ball joint taper and it should at some point fall free. The usual tendency of those who don't know this is to hit the ball joint tapered shaft (with or without the crown nut on it!) downwards to try and force the tapered shaft out of the ring it sits in. This usually won't work.

Also, if you hit it on the end (at right angles to the taper, that is) you can hit it really, really, hard without damaging anything.

I wish I had time to make a diagram, but I think it makes sense!

[Lotz-A-Landies]

...
Just my 10c worth.Wow that's inflation from the old 2¢ worth? :D ;)

[shamirj]

Well tonight was the night - i managed to get stuck into the landie after work and firstly wheeled out the front axle, had to grind off one bolt seized in. dropped the chassis and move the engine off its mounts and then lowered the engine off to the ground then raised the chassis to spin the engine away. then on my own managed to lift the chassis onto its side:) and stand erect to the wall. now i can clean the bottom of the chassis and do some minor repairs.:D

what should i squirt into the chassis where i cant clean, not sure something runny would be good. old oil and whats the best way to spray inside to lubricate the inner chassis steel.:angel:

petrol tank was cleaned and painted one coat of black enamel, had some run on the paint as small amount of petrol inside leaked. this was brushed on so next time i will spray the black enamel on.

firewall has been cleaned and painted (brushed) with stop rust in a green colour awaiting final spray on later.

thinking of galvanising the foot pedals and controls once cleaned up.:cool:

thats enough for one night happy to have gotten the chassis completely bare and now i can clean till Im happy. its slow work with wire brush on drill but it cleans really well. there seems to be some yellow paint and then the original green paint on chassis but not sure what the yellow paint is or was.

[Maffra]

You can fit one of those spray cleaning guns with a flexible hose instead of the long metal one and spray fishoil inside the chassis through the various holes in it. Every now and then turn the chassis 90 degrees and tip it from end to end to let the fish oil run right through. Can be a bit messy and takes a little time but end result is worth it. I did an 80" chassis like this and it come up a treat.
Regards
Maffra

[chris1983rangie]

yellow paint is the under coat, i had the same on my chassi.

your doing great keep up the work & thanks for the pics!

cheers Chris ;)

[shamirj]

Here is a pic of the landie when i first picked her up all the way from Bega took some hours to find her and towed her back in the Disco Td5. Not a prob for the disco but was a little slow on return with trailer and added weight.:)

thx for the flexible hose idea will do. Assuming i can pick up from bunnings and the fishoil. how did you get the junk out of the inside of the chassi though. :(

last night did more work - this time taking a stubborn spring bolt out by grinding it and then the bush but left the outer ring in situ in chassi. tried hammering out with a socket same size but did not budge at all. sprayed wd40 no effect either. rubber and inner is removed but the outer steel wont move any ideas of removing this bush from the chassi.

also am thinking of getting a wire brush but a longer one to do some areas. all my wire brushes have a small rod to connect to drill. are there longer ones or do i just weld a piece of rod to one i have.:cool:

jeez the garage is looking crap though and everytime i spin the drill it flicks all crap all over the garage floor. need a serious clean this weekend of the floor at least and with the front diff spilling oil on the floor.:mad:not happy jan

[Maffra]

Hi,
I used a clear reinforced flexible hose that we just slid over the metal nozzle of the spray gun. Used the type of hose we did because it just happened to be what was lying around. Good to use something that won't crush as it goes around corners etc though.
Didn't remove the spray nozzle as I said in my earlier post. A longish piece of hose enables you to get it well inside.
Got the fishoil at Bunnings or one of those auto shops, forget which but easy to find.
Got the crap out of the chassis by cutting off the front end caps. Yours look like they need treatment anyway so shouldn't be a problem. May need to remove the front bumper bolt mount crush tubes just inside the chassis rail. Stand the chassis up and give it a light tap all over with a hammer. Amazing what can come out. Also used compressed air through the many holes available along the chassis to blow stuff out. I just kept working at it. Tipped the chassis this way and that way and eventually stuff stops coming out.
Then sprayed the fishoil in from wherever I could get the hose in. Tipped the chassis up, rolled it over to make sure that all surfaces and corners inside were treated. A bit messy as the fishoil does leak out a bit. Once it covers all surfaces it seals them and does a good job.
When finished insert the front bumper mount crush tubes and weld the front caps back on.
As I say, a bit messy, takes time, but does a good job.
You might end up with a few new cats as well !
hope this helps.
Regards
Maffra

[Maffra]

Just read your post again about the spring bush stuck inside the chassis. You can make up a puller pretty easy with a long bolt. Use a piece of tube or something on one end the same size as the bush. Pack the end of the bolt with a same size washer as the piece of tube so the head of the bolt can't pull through. On the other end use a tube larger than the bush so the bush can be pulled inside it. place it on the chassis around the bush. Put a suitable washer on the end and the nut on the bolt. Hold one end of the bolt with a spanner and do the nut up. Bush should slide out. May need to tap the end of the bolt if the nut tightens and no movement in the bush. Again, take your time and do it slowly. I think I have a home made puller here like the one I describe so may be able to photograph and send to you if you like.
Regards
Maffra

[numpty]

The best way to remove that bush from the chassis would be to carefully cut through one side with a hacksaw and then bash it out with a cold chisel or reinforced screwdriver.

[Shonky]

I got the bushes out of Gus using the method that Numpty has outlined, but I also heated it up with a blowtorch first, and doused it in WD40 whilst hot.

They came out reasonably easily.

[shamirj]

Well another weekend is over and yes i did more on the slow goin chassi. the rear end is pretty much complete now the front end. needs a good clean inside the chassi and outside. have that darn bush to rip out as well.:mad:

will try and get some fish oil this week.:) concentrating on the chassi to end all the cleaning some welding required for a buggered cross member below g'box which has a buckle.:mad:

cut off the extra shock mount on inside chassi:D

though the paint finish is not perfect it looks good from a distance. its a stop rust silver paint enamel. thinking of spraying some spray putty over the paint and repainting the chassi with a spray gun instead of painting by hand and brush for that extra smooth finish;) just to iron out the rougher patches.

painted the bottom of the tray black enamel with again a brush but needs a full spray in black when its warmer weather:cool:

[shamirj]

Not sure about the look of the bottom of the rear tray. painted in black enamel but doesn't look good. chassi is silver and thought the black would look cool:cool: what have others painted underneath their tray, thought of green like the landie but black should look ok. the brown colour is other sound deadening paint. not complete yet but a nice distraction from the chassi work from time to time. :D any thoughts welcome or am i just being too fussy:wasntme:

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Joe

The chassis in that era were usually black or body colour for 1949-54 and the underside of the body unpainted except for over-spray of the body colour.

If you're going with a silver painted chassis, then I'd personally prefer the underside of the body be in the raw or with a clear coat or even something like wheel silver.

But it's all personal choice isn't it?

Diana

[shamirj]

hi there all,

chassi almost complete for now. hammered the sides and its amazing the dust and soil that comes out of a chassi. painted silver and looks pretty impressive. quiet happy with the look of the chassi:D thank god thats over cleaning the chassi. knocked up some timber legs to hold the chassi up of the floor easier to work on now thou not very strong. always weary that it may drop till i make some more supports underneath;)

the engine haven't managed to get the flywheel off. how does one prize it off gently. not sure? :mad: is there a easy way to get it off without damage:( really want to sort out the motor and clean it b4 painting it up. bought the supercheap blue engine paint. sump has been cleaned need more thou:D

finally the seized motor still wont turn:mad: what should i be doing here. some one suggested the bearings could be seized, should i undo each piston shaft and bearings to see what? not sure what Im doing here so any help appreciated.;) do i need to remove the oil sump filter as well or should i just remove the bearing covers each individually. what do i look out for here. if the bearings are seized:cool: not sure what needs replacing to free up the motor:D

[shamirj]

:D:D:D

[JDNSW]

The engine being seized is most likely one or more pistons seized in the bore, as this is the only place that two bits of ferrous (and hence rust prone) metal rub on each other. To confirm this, it is probably a good idea to remove all the big end bearing caps and see which (if any) pistons can be moved. When you do this, keep track of which bearing cap belongs to which bore (and the same for any bits you remove - all should go back in the same cylinder they came from - applies to things like rockers, valves, tappets pistons etc. Even if it does not matter, it won't hurt.

When you have found a stuck piston, a generous serve of penetrating oil is indicated. Treat the pistons gently - S1 pistons are expensive, and if possible you will want to reuse them.

I assume you have a workshop manual - if not, get one!

John

[shamirj]

Hi all,

Latest updates still on the engine for the 55 model. Its a standard petrol motor but one of the pistons has seized in prob rusted in. oil is trapped and will not flow thru like the others chambers. how do i loosen the piston to move.:mad:I have tried pouring diesel and oil into the chamber for last few days and hammered on top but wont budge, careful not to break anything. help:angel:Im guessing it may be better to try and twist the piston rather then exert pressure to move up or down.:( can someone explain what the oil filter contraption is below in the sump and what the side large nut does as you tighten. it has a small ball in it. what does this do:wasntme:

chassi is almost complete needed some more work. need to weld in some new sections of steel.;) gearbox washed with degreaser twice now but needs more. sump has some dents in it so will need to fix up.

[Debacle]

When JD mentioned penetrating oil, he meant a product called Penetrene. Can be a bit hard to get sometimes. Let that sit in there for a couple of days and try it again.

[Lost Landy]

Looking good keep it up, cant wait to see your next lot of progress photos.

[shamirj]

Its been a while since my last update but the firewall has gone in. :)

Ive forgotten on how the steering assembly goes on. Once the shaft goes thru the firewall hole, there seems to be nothing on the engine side, is that right? Opposite side is a mesh with a plate covering it with two large holes in pic. Can someone post a pic of the correct set up. Then the cover plate comes on which is to the left of the pic. Am i missing something here.:cool: should there be another plate behind the steering wheel engine side and why is there the 6 smaller holes surrounding the hole, I must be missing a plate. the front cover plate has two large holes which dont line up with the 6 smaller holes on firewall.



2nd pic - what holds the accelerator rod from sliding out. Have i installed correctly nothing seems to hold it from sliding out.:cool: tried looking at builds with close up of this pic but cant seem to find any!

engine piston still stuck, used lubricating oil wont budge:mad:
gearbox being cleaned and ready for install soon:)

[chris1983rangie]

Hi Shamirj,

Awnser for 1st Question:

nothing on the engine side, thats correct! there is the only one cover plate on the inside of the bulkhead! those 6 holes is normal you only need the 2 centre holes each side for the steering column cover plate. also remember to put a piece of rubber or neoprene (wetsuit material) to close off the gap around the column. the other 4 holes 2 at the top and 2 at the bottom are for the cover plate, as the bulkheads were built for left and right hand drive Landys. look at the pics below.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/10/1310.jpg
cover plate for left side on top right hand corner of picture.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/10/1311.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/10/1312.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/10/1313.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/10/1314.jpg

Awnser for 2nd Question:

im not sure what part of the accelerator rod u talking about. are you talking about that shaft that has ball joint connectors each end, or the shaft that runs horizontal through the bulk head to the foot pedal?
pics attached below hope something there makes sense. also just to note my accelerator may be different as its modified for the holden motor. my carby is on the passenger side, what side is it origionally on a 2litre motor?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/10/1315.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/10/1316.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/10/1317.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/10/1318.jpg

hope this is helpful, cheers Chris;)

[shamirj]

thanks a lot for the pics. cant recall which side the carby is on as the engine is apart for now.

i had the accelerator before the L shape bracket hence would slide, in yours its after the bracket which stops it sliding out. the horizontal bar that is. will fix that no probs.

the steering now makes sense will fix that as well. just thought there may have been something else engine side.

windscreen went on yesterday. painted more bits and pieces. oil filter got painted. thats it for now. thx again for the pics.:)

[shamirj]

hi All,

I have removed and painted the three steering rods and cant remember which length goes where, they measure 58cm (23inch) shortest, middle length 69cm (27inch) and longest length 107cm (42inch). I'm guessing the longer one is the track rod. really want to connect the arm from steering wheel to relay box in front of chassis but not sure of length.

LR book states all 3 arms have opposing tie rod ends on them meaning left hand thread one end the opposite is right hand thread. 6 total tie rod ends. yes:)

piston in engine still stuck - unable to budge it. used different oils no use. even brake oil two weeks no good. dont want to break the piston to remove any other suggestions. someone suggested heating not sure...:angrylock:

[Dinty]

G'day All, The closest item I have found to match the texture etc of the gasket behind/around the steering column, where it goes through the b/head, is a used 'Mouse pad' you know the thicker ones, it's easy to cut etc and cheap as, anyway cheers Dennis:angel:

[slug_burner]

Diesel in the bore is what i have seen done.

From the staitionary engine blokes that often have to free long rusted pieces, I have heard of milk, diluted molasses in water and finally electrolysis.

I have used electrolysis and am happy to say that it works cleaning up steel, no dangerous chemicals just need to make sure that you don't set the hydrogen on fire as it will explode. I did my work outside so it did not have an opportunity to build up.

patience

[chris1983rangie]

G'day All, The closest item I have found to match the texture etc of the gasket behind/around the steering column, where it goes through the b/head, is a used 'Mouse pad' you know the thicker ones, it's easy to cut etc and cheap as, anyway cheers Dennis:angel:


Thats clever Dennis, better than goin to clark rubber for the same sort of material (Neoprene). a good way to recycle.:clap2:

cheers,

Chris

[Shonky]

Thats clever Dennis, better than goin to clark rubber for the same sort of material (Neoprene). a good way to recycle.:clap2:

cheers,

Chris

Alternatively, if you have one of those old K-Mart 'bed rolls' made from 12mm rubber/foam (the type you send your kids off to Cub Scouts with) you can use that. I did. ;)

[chris1983rangie]

another clever one...........! thanks, Chris;)

[shamirj]

completed almost the rear tray. painted black underneath and green on top. galvanised bits cleaned up with wire brush. rear panel cut out another aluminium panel and rivetted on then painted. very happy with outcome looks like new. want that aged look but not completely new. need to drill out holes for the lights.

gearbox cleaned up. cleaned up the front and rear prop & tail shafts not sure if they are any different really and not sure which way they go back on. later on that.

have not touched the engine yet. still piston stuck as before. enjoying the work on the body.

side rails put on. can i purchase the normal engine mounts and use these for the box mounts. two piece gbox mounts are expensive. purchased new grommets for around the brake and clutch floor. steering ok now need to purchase tie rod ends x6. enjoy the pics:)

[Scallops]

Good work - I'd love a 1950's wheelbarrow like that! :D

[shamirj]

thanks for that the wheelbarrow makes it ideal to move around in or out of the sun when painting and drying. worked a treat for painting and getting it off the ground.

next pic is the rear door. found some aluminium and rivetted over the back door which had some damage to it. cut it out and rivetted. i think it looks ok.:) plus did a repair of another smaller piece to centre bottom of tailgate and ready for painting now. tailgate frame all cleaned up with wire brush so its ready to go on as well. just gotta get the damn spray gun all cleaned out to work properly as the last time it splatted out the paint - prob dirty from previous time.:)

need to go to bunnings and get some more nuts and bolts for the tray.:D

[shamirj]

Hi All,

Finally removed the jammed piston. Drilled a few holes and hammered it out gently. So glad it came out finally. pic attached looked a bit dry on the sides suspecting the oil pump not working or pumping oil to piston shaft. not sure not a mechanic:D

other 3 removed and in bucket soaking in degreaser for a wash later. now need to purchase a second hand piston from somewhere cheaply:mad: suggestions please where to get a cheap 2nd hand piston:wasntme:

water pump removed as well. :cool:

rear body cappings near complete and drilled a hole for the rear lights. pics later as my pc is very slow in uploading from the camera. enjoy:)

[Mooloolah-Paul]

The oil pump pressurises the oil galleries to lubricate the top end, rockers, valve springs, timing chain etc. The pistons are lubricated by the crankshaft picking oil out of the sump and flinging it upwards. So it wouldn't have been the oil pump that caused the seizure. Have a close look at the piston rings and the walls of the cylinder it came out of. If there is any damage you need to consult a specialist engine mechanic. With the low compression these engines can take a bit of abuse but re-assembling an engine needs to be done with great care. Replace your big end and main (if you loosened the crankshaft itself) bearing shells. Check the little ends for any play at all as they have to take higher pressures.

You are welcome to one of my old pistons provided it is the right size. Can you measure up (they usually come in 10 thou oversize increments, standard, +10, +20, +30, +40). Photograph one of the good ones for me?

Good luck with it, Paul

[dennisS1]

Sorry that is wrong, all lubrication on a S1 engine is from the oil pump, the crank shaft is not in oil.
Oil is fed through the main bearings into the shaft then big ends, sprayed out the holes in the rods in an upwards direction thus oiling the cylinders. If any or these oil ways are blocked, can happen when people use silastic then no oil to the pistons. Your problem was more likely due to over heating thus lots of things need to be looked at.
Dennis

[shamirj]

hope to upload some pics of the block - not sure of the engine number but there are two in the pics hope this helps. piston measured but not sure of the exact measurement so see pic for details. rings are pretty grotty and filthy which may explain why oil wasn't lubricating perhaps:cool:

piston 78-79mm is that correct reading, as is bore...:cool:
244291 is this the engine number, then there is 241613... not sure am i looking at the right location...:cool:

my other question is the water pump has a hole below is that normal - it spins freely so think it might be good - not sure what do u think.:o

any idea how much is involved in a piston ring change $ worth:angel:

any help or suggestions much appreciated thanks guys:) would love to see this old girl fired up again but realise this may take some time to achieve, one small step at a time though...:)

might even water blast the engine block now that everything is off it. was going to put the g'box back in but realise should put the engine in first then the box for aligning purposes.

also is it possible to use a series engine mounts round type for the g'box instead of the two piece for the S1. looks like it can be done but not sure and the round type are easier and cheaper to source. cheers

[101RRS]

That is not the engine number - it is stamped not cast.

The engine number is in two places. The first is on the front passenger side of the block just in front of the exhaust manifold. The second is at the rear passenger side of the block just behind the exhaust manifold.

Garry

[shamirj]

see pic - hope this is the engine number, small numbers and tiny to find:)

cheers for the advice though:D

57111664 - an eight digit number hoping this is the correct number ;)

[shamirj]

will a series S2/S2A swb spring set front and rear fit a 1955 86 inch.
the S2/2A is 88 inch wheelbase but not sure if the springs interchange. are they the same or different
cheers:angel:

[dennisS1]

1. The hole in the water pump is normal; the pump will need a new seal at min. As it looks to be a cast pump it is worth repairing- there have been lots of posts on this on the Trans s1 site but if you need help send me your number and I will give you a call.
2- You can’t determine the bore size like that. look at the top of a good piston and see if there is a number eg 20 or st stamped into the crown this will give you the size. EG: 30 stands for 30th over.
3- the gearbox can go in first, in fact if you have the panels removed it is the easiest way.
4- if the engine has been very hot, clean up the bores and look for crack just below the ext. valve seats.
5- from the pics it looks like someone has replaced the sacrificial anodes with steel plug, this will work but looks bad and can upset exhaust manifold alignment.
6 spring will fit.
The above offer holds for any questions you might have.
Dennis

[101RRS]

see pic - hope this is the engine number, small numbers and tiny to find:)

cheers for the advice though:D

57111664 - an eight digit number hoping this is the correct number ;)

That is it :D

Garry

[shamirj]

took another pic of the top of the piston after a quick clean up and found some numbers stamped. it looks like its a 40 thou oversize not sure what this actually means guessing the bore has been made bigger by 40 ??? something...

will clean out the bores and inspect closer to see if there are any damage to the walls;) still cant believe the piston finally came out:D

[JDNSW]

took another pic of the top of the piston after a quick clean up and found some numbers stamped. it looks like its a 40 thou oversize not sure what this actually means guessing the bore has been made bigger by 40 ??? something...

will clean out the bores and inspect closer to see if there are any damage to the walls;) still cant believe the piston finally came out:D

Means that the bore has been overbored, to correct the fact that it had worn oval, by .040 inch, referred to as "forty thou". The piston needs to be the same size as the bore (well, not actually the same size, but the same amount oversize).

John

[dennisS1]

Give the bore a light hone and then measure the play between the piston and the bore, the method is described in the book. This will tell you if you can reuse the pistons. Hopefully you are within tolerance, can get away with a little more. 40th is normaly it but people do go bigger not sure where you get the bigger pistons.
Dennis

[shamirj]

just cleaned all pistons today and soaking in oil mix to lubricate the rings for removal and inspection. have not had a chance to inspect the bore yet. needs a clean. bolted up the brackets (some) for the seat backs:) some of the rings are tight as and dont even rotate around the piston due to the gunk around it. prob needs another better clean. water pump cleaned as well.

piston is 40 thou oversize not sure of the other numbers though...:cool:

[shamirj]

After soaking the pistons in light oil mix my father has assisted in removing them and has found them to be very stuck and useless. rings have jammed and are full of muck. :mad:

i think some have even broken upon removal. so now Im after a set of piston rings. quick call around $126 for 3 ring set but mine is 4 rings per piston from Melb. no other leads yet for 40 thou oversize. ebay in uk nothing listed either. anyone been down this path and where did they get their rings from. how much should a complete ring set cost ? cheers :angel:

[chris1983rangie]

Hi,

the place you called in Melb was that Automotive Surplus?\
heres there contact details anyways

Automotive Surplus Online (http://www.autosurplus.com.au/)

cheers, Chris;)

[LRO53]

Hi shamirj

Cox and Turner Engineering in the UK would be you best bet. They are slow via email best to call.

John Cox

Phone/Fax
+44 (0)1425 652627

If you give them a ring tonight (Monday) that's morning UK so you should get them ok.

Give them your engine number as we want to make sure you get the right ones.

I'm in UK currently will give them a call as well just to see the price(Local call) if you have not done already by then.

They post really quick and you should have it by the end of the week.

[shamirj]

Auto Surplus online quoted $120 for piston ring set and have available. $126 from Melb 4wd was the mob i tried who provide a 3 ring set not 4. Not sure of the UK mob but will try later. cheers:D

[Mooloolah-Paul]

Joe,
Have you tried JP pistons in Adelaide? That is where I got mine. They do pistons and rings.
JP Pistons Home Page (http://www.jp.com.au/JPPistons.html) 08 8261 7222

Still suggest you get a new 40 thou piston or a full set if you can afford. David Chilton (Chilton Engineering 07 3391 1672 can hone the gudgeons for you.) Paul

[shamirj]

Well got sick of moving the rear tub in the backyard so decided today was the day to fit the rear tub back onto the chassis. :D

Hard work when you do it yourself could have done with another pair of hands but all done. nothing bolted but gees it looks good with the tub back on. :p

not sure of the exact motor size on these standard S1 - are they a 2L or 1.6L :angel: see engine pic

two of the hood sticks are bent so need to straighten them up before installing. And Im missing the 4 clamps which hold down the hood sticks in each corner. :mad:

finally thanks to all your comments and feedback without your support this and other similar builds become impossible to complete. ;)

[101RRS]

Your project should have a 2 litre - 55 is around the change from the siamese 2 litre to the spread bore 2 litre - I am not knowledgeable enough to tell the difference from your engine pic but the spreadbore has an oil filter on the drivers side of the block. The siamese does not and does not have an oil filter integral with the block though one may be plumbed in somewhere.

Garry

[numpty]

I don't profess to being an expert either, but concur that it is a 2 litre. By the look of your pic, I would say that engine is a siamese bore.

[groucho]

I would say It's a spread bore as the studs show for the full flow oil filter
on the RHS. The walls between 12/34 are thinner on the siamese motor.
Is that some damage between 1/2 cyls or just the camera
Now if the engine is 40 thou and has some wear and to allow for a hone clean up to get the rust pits out. You will have to mic the bore to see what size pistons you will need. Remember the piston bore clearance is critical for heat transfer. Better to do it right. If that is a dent between 1/2 it may give problems with head gasket sealing...........Mark

[dennisS1]

As already stated it is 2L spread bore. You need to get that mark between 1 and 2 looked at and the bore size checked before you buy pistons mate or you will be wasting money. Depending on the depth of that damage you may be better off looking for another block.
Dennis

[groucho]

The difference between.........
siamese bore left
spread bore right...Mark





https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/12/1226.jpg

[shamirj]

that damage between 1/2 bore is me:mad: when i was drilling and hammering out the old piston i slipped once on the hammer and the blow slid across the top. bugger. how do i fix that ?:( does this need machining to flatten back down to a smooth finish.

Im now thinking maybe its cheaper to find a replacement engine altogether & stripped it. not sure what they fetch in price but could be cheaper then buying bits n pieces for this one. not sure yet. I will call around and see whats available & what price and post results. cheers;)

[groucho]

The piccy don't look good for the damage.
only my guess is it would bee too mutch to re face the block deck height.
You will have trouble with the piston deck height. Eg pistons sitting too high
not to mention push rod length ect. If you take too mutch off the block you will have trouble with the pistons hitting the valves head ect
a lot of things come in to play there, with doing all that.
May be cheaper to find another block. That's only my guess.... Mark

[JDNSW]

that damage between 1/2 bore is me:mad: when i was drilling and hammering out the old piston i slipped once on the hammer and the blow slid across the top. bugger. how do i fix that ?:( does this need machining to flatten back down to a smooth finish.

Im now thinking maybe its cheaper to find a replacement engine altogether & stripped it. not sure what they fetch in price but could be cheaper then buying bits n pieces for this one. not sure yet. I will call around and see whats available & what price and post results. cheers;)

I would find an engine overhaul shop that does block machining and talk to them. It is hard to tell from the picture just how bad it is. Fortunately it is an area that does not have the piston running on it. It is possible that some form of, for example, metal spraying could be used to build it up before resurfacing the block. If you can find an engine in better condition, that would be the way to go.

John

[groucho]

Don't forget that the block is already out to 40 thou
metal spraying on such a localised area and deep as well
The small area will probably lift when heated in service
as slightly dissimilar metals are applied. Remember 1950's cast iron
and todays cast iron.......... Cast iron metal spraying is iffy in my oppinion. Seen too many failures. That would be in the hot area of the exhaust valve. Pinning or stitching . It is too close to the head bolt hole.
Remember that those old blocks will have a considerable wastage on the inside of the water jacket. By all means get a quote, Re boring and all the other work will far exceed a good second hand block. Those old blocks
are starting to show all their problems now....Mark

[groucho]

Don't i wish for the days when you could whip up to Alspares on a saturday
morning and get anything your wallet would allow. Gone for ever now........

[shamirj]

Groucha back then I use to complain about the drive to Alspares but use to go with my father and pick up all those much needed LR parts it was great, what a pity its gone.

Well after some serious thinking and talking with others I decided to manipulate the top of the engine between 1/2 where I had slipped with the hammer.:p

I think and hope the results speak for themselves, Im pretty rapped with the end result. :D what i did was to get a drill and attach a sanding disc and carefully sanded the face to grind away the indent and it worked a treat. :p

Im no expert but hope this will work might not be 100% accurate or level but willing to give it a go.;) compare the pic to previous post with damage.

Now whats the best way to clean out the bores - not looking at getting it done professionally but at home. can i use sandpaper fine grade or not. if not what else can i use to clean the inner bores out to a fine clean finish. :cool: suggestions please :angel:

[JDNSW]

..............
Now whats the best way to clean out the bores - not looking at getting it done professionally but at home. can i use sandpaper fine grade or not. if not what else can i use to clean the inner bores out to a fine clean finish. :cool: suggestions please :angel:

The proper thing to use is a honing tool. You should be able to get one from any good tool shop I would think.

John

[dennisS1]

No, no,no. It will not work. If you persist you are wasting your money.
If this mark was only a very small take the block to someone that can plane it level again. This might work if they only need to take off a small amount.
The top of the block needs to be perfectly level or the head gasket will never seal, remember there is a lot of pressure and heat involved.
Have you measured the bore yet to see if new rings will work?
A hone is used to cleanup and resurface the bore.
If planning, 60" oversize boring plus pistons and rings maybe look for a block in better condition.
I have rebuilt a number of 2l and 1600 engines, more than happy to talk to you about this problem give me a call 0418502430.
Dennis

[lenmctodd]

I think and hope the results speak for themselves, Im pretty rapped with the end result. :D what i did was to get a drill and attach a sanding disc and carefully sanded the face to grind away the indent and it worked a treat. :p

Im no expert but hope this will work might not be 100% accurate or level but willing to give it a go.;) compare the pic to previous post with damage.



Well if you want it to drive like a piece of **** just keep treating it like one...

[groucho]

I wasn't going to post a reply after seeing that you attacked the block with a sanding disc. A general rule is with straight edge across the block is 3 thou
deck flatness. Thats why they do it in the re con shop with a propper milling machine.You are not going to bend the head to take up the contour.
In the previous pics the marks from belting out the piston, and the rust ring
where the piston sat, at 40 thou you will not have mutch chance of saving the block without some serious dollars at the machine shop. Sorry that's the way i see it. Others may disagree. If you feel like to Keep going don't winge later when it gives problems........ And it will.... Remember it's not a leggo set
I gouldn't put it any nicer than that. Sorry.Mark

[Shonky]

:D what i did was to get a drill and attach a sanding disc and carefully sanded the face to grind away the indent and it worked a treat...

:Thump:

[shamirj]

Ok lets get back to work on this rebuild. all points taken.

2 pics - questions

1st pic - had my gearbox overdrive removed and bought a replacement cog. not sure which way this cog goes on, pls refer to pic and orientation and confirm whether the right way round or need to spin it 180 degrees.

2nd pic - removed front and rear shafts (prop and tail) for a clean up, are they both the same size and interchangeable and again is the orientation the right way with the shorter tail at g'box end or should i rotate 180 degrees so that shorter end is facing towards the rear diff. cheers :D not sure if this is the front or rear shaft ?

engine is on hold for now ...

[dennisS1]

Please do not take this the wrong way but to help you I need to know if you just have no mechanical ability at all or are you just having a lend of us all?
If you are for real please use the phone number I have already supplied and lets have a talk about where you are going with this restore and what books and information you desperately need.
Dennis

[charlesdillon]

Hi! It's been great following your restoration, :) you seem to be putting a lot of time into it. It's wonderful seeing another landy being given another lease of life. So by all means follow the suggestion from Dennis and give him a call, we all need a little guidance from time to time. I know!!
These old machines may not be "high performance", but they still require alot of precision in the repair and restoration, particually the motor and transmission. Any shortcuts will definetly bite you in the bum later down the track. Anyway good luck!
Cheers:D