Matillda 67 2a 88

[3 ball]

Hey all
Well I think it is about time that I start a thread about my new toy.
I got her a few months ago and have been slowly disasembeling and inspecting.
Over all its in resonabl conditionwith only minimal rust in the chassis and firewall.
Any way here are some pics
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/1125.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/1126.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/1127.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/1128.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/1129.jpg
Will post more pics of the progress to date.
Cheers
Joel

[isuzutoo-eh]

Looking good there Joel!
I like the dirty great toolbox, I've been thinking one would make a handy addition to my SWB.
One question, how do you put fuel in her?
Looking forward to seeing the rebuild and action photos to come :)
Cheers,
Mark

[pop058]

Joel,

great looking shorty. keep the pics coming

Paul

PS, what is that thing on the front of the trailer drawbar ? :D

[d@rk51d3]

Nice score.

Well done.:cool:

[HBWC]

mmmmm series 2 love it also keap the pics coming witj the good or the bad

[Shonky]

Looking great mate! :D

Will be watching with interest. :)

[GSKeeper]

Nice Shorty Joel,

Looks like a six cylinder grill.....

I personally like the 2.25 petrol anyway .. tough as nails.

Cheers

Ben

[3 ball]

Hey gang
Thanks to all for the comments, and as for the tow vehicle well it may not be a Landy but at least its not a Nissan. https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/470.jpg

Any way here's some more pics

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/1103.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/1104.jpg
Here's what I found after removing the bumper, not to bad.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/1105.jpg
Drivers footwell.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/1106.jpg
Not much paint left on the chassis, dam leaking breaks:mad:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/1107.jpg
MMMM how do i fix that?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/1108.jpg
Looks like I need some steel!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/1687.jpg
Origional 2.25 with stromberg carby. Still runs but VERY smokey.

More pics to come.
Cheers
Joel

[HBWC]

cut and shut with pleny of grinding
also the front dumbells arnt that bad if needed their was a tread on how to do it if not theirs pics in my thread

[3 ball]

Hey to all the roverholics,
More pics

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/1092.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/1093.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/701.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/702.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/1094.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/1095.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/1096.jpg
Definatly not the origional radiator>

So this is where im up to now. I have killed the worst of the rust and about to start on the rear of the chassis.
Will post more pics and updates as they come.
Cheers
Joel

[3 ball]

Hey all
Whell I have been slowly working away on the rover in between work, sleep and family and have got a few more jobs done.

have given the rear of the chassis a good scrub with the wire brush and found lots of flaking paint and surface rust but allup its preaty good realy.
there was only one rust hole on the pasenger side above the rear spring hanger.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/701.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/702.jpg

So I got out the grinder and started chopping only to find the rot went right back tu the rear cross member that had been replaced by the p/o at some point. so off it came.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/703.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/704.jpg
Passenger side
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/705.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/706.jpg
Drivers side
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/707.jpg

The crossmember itself is ok but have removed about 10 kilo's of dirt out of it.:o Now the truck has sat for atleast 18 months before I got it and the dirt was still WET.:o:o

So thats where Im up to now. Am sourcing some steel, have got to get new spring hangers and just bought a welder, all I need to do now is come up with a plan of atack. Any ideas?
Cheers
Joel

[JDNSW]

New chassis? Actually I have a spare chassis that could be used to supply necessary bits, but I am a bit far away. In my opinion, your best approach would be to find a chassis with the necessary bits still OK, probably somewhere inland.

John

[3 ball]

Hello again,
Well I had some time to work on Matillda after nite shift last week and was looking for a quiet job to do at 2am, so desided to deskin the drivers door. It was a nice easy job, I took my time peeling the skin back and lucky for me most of the rivets were long gone.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/685.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/686.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/687.jpg

Pics were taken the next day, only the bottom of the frame is rotten. Have cot some duragall sheet and have a guilotine and folder at work so will make a new bit for that.

On a different note the drivers door top is missing, so dose anyone know of a landy wrecker/part horder in north QLD?

Cheers
Joel

[3 ball]

New chassis? Actually I have a spare chassis that could be used to supply necessary bits, but I am a bit far away. In my opinion, your best approach would be to find a chassis with the necessary bits still OK, probably somewhere inland.

John

Cheers John I may take you up on that but will see how I go localy first. As the rest of the chassis is ok I was hoping to save it. the rot is realy only in the bottom of the chassis where the spring hanger is. Im thinking if I cut that bit out and replate it I can save the top half. Whilst the cross member is off I might atatch some 12mm plate to the chassis and extend out through the crossmember to make some rear recovery points. should be stronger than the tow bar atleast.

[chazza]

I think your chassis is quite saveable and you have started your investigation well and with a sensible approach.

If you intend to remove the bulkhead, engine, axles, etc. then you may well find more rust under the front spring hangers. Use a hammer and centre punch to check that there is solid steel in all places especially under the reinforcing plates where the re-bound rubbers sit. If you strip the chassis you can then turn it over to make welding repairs easier, however, it may be easy to weld anyway without stripping.

For the rear hangers I have used the following approach:
1. Scribe a line up from the vertical edges of the hangers with a scriber and rule to the top of the chassis and centre punch identifying marks on the line so that it doesn't get lost later.
2. Centre punch the chassis where the top corners of the hanger are - these may be useful reference points for later when the hanger goes back on. Make a jig that has a length of rigid steel with two bolts welded on the ends that will fit into the front and rear spring hanger eyes when the spring has been removed. This will ensure that the hanger goes back in the right place. :)
3. Remove the hanger and inspect closely. On my car I de-rusted it in molasses and built up the thin metal with pad welds before putting them back on the car, which saved the hassle of finding new ones. I did one side at a time leaving the other side for reference. If the forward hanger on the rear needs replacing, do it after the rear one has been repaired/replaced.
4. Make new repair patches for the sides of the chassis before you cut the rust out so that you can be sure that they are the right size and shape. Use mild steel of the same thickness as the original. On the S1 it was 2mm; yours may be thicker, so measure a clean unrusted part of the chassis with a vernier caliper, or micrometer. I like to make a cardboard template first so that I know it will fit.
5. Tack the repair patches into place on the vertical sides - depending how powerful your welder is you may need to leave a gap so that the weld can penetrate; practice on some offcuts first until the weld comes through to the back and your test piece survives a 180 degree bend in the vice. Remember that good welds can only be done on bright and shiny steel in this case, so sand off paint and rust and degrease with prepsol if necessary. The toe of a file can be handy for cleaning inside the chassis at the back of the weld.
6.When the two side patches are in place clamp them together with a suitable spacer in between to control distortion - I used a piece of timber
7.Weld the patches in short stages, I did mine in 20mm beads to control distortion and I let them cool before doing the next one. Spread the welds out evenly across the repair so that the heat isn't concentrated in one place. Use vertical down welds on the vertical faces.
8. Make the bottom patch, which will be a rectangle, and tack it at the forward end. If the bottom of the chassis is curved, shape the patch with a hammer and tack it 25mm away and so on, down to the end of the chassis.
9. When the patches are in, locate the spring hanger using the jig and punch marks and weld it in place using longer welds but being mindful to spread the heat as evenly as possible.

Then you can start on the other side :)

Cheers Charlie

[3 ball]

Chazza
Mate thanks heaps for the advice I would never have thought of a jig, great idea. I will keep everyone updated as the repairs proceed, albeit slowly.
Cheers
Joel

[3 ball]

Hello again.
Well its time for another update. I have not had much time to work on the landy of late but have decided that the best way to repair the chassis is to strip it down compleatly so I can turn it upside down.

So I have started to strip the bulkhead in preperation for removal.

First up I started to lable the electrics for the engine.
Now I have a question for the series experts. Is there 2 temperature senders for the 2.25 petrol engine?
I have found 1 under the thermostat housing that looks like a normal sender
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/1688.jpg
and another that is located on the front of the head near the manifolds.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/1689.jpg
Is that a head temp sender?
I dont think its the oil presure sender as that is on the oil filter housing?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/1690.jpg

Any help would be greatly appriciated.
Cheers
Joel

[rangieman]

By the way that holden carby fuel bowl should be pointing towards the front of the car:cool:
Although the carby is the least of your problems;)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/1687.jpg

[peterg1001]

The one on the top of the engine at the front is a dolphin switch which is part of the choke warning light system. You only need it if you want to reinstate the choke warning light.

Peter

[3 ball]

Hey all
Well had some moretime to work on Matillda this week and got the rest of the eletrics stripped out. spent quite allot of time labelling all the conections so I can put it back together and hopefully it will still work.:D My plans are to make a new loom for the old girl but have kept the old loom as a template.
Any way here are some pics.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/1501.jpg
Here is the old loom. I didn't think there would be so much wire in such a simple truck.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/1502.jpg
Instuments all stripped out.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/1503.jpg
Just the coil and starter solinoid to go. I left that in so I can still drive her arround the yard:D

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/1504.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/1505.jpg
I dont think that this is the origional alternator as the main feed to the regulator had been cut and a nice fat feed hooked strait to the bat. The charge light never worked so I may havesome drama when I put her back together.
Dose any one have a wiring diagram for a 2a petrol as i want to get rid of the old regulator, but of cause I have much more prseeing issues first.

Next job, windscreen, pedel boxes and hydrolics then the bulkhead can come off :BigThumb:
Cheers
Joel

[JDNSW]

Well, it is certainly not the original alternator, seeing that they were not even an option on the four cylinder 2a - it would have originally have had a generator. In my view the change to an alternator is worthwhile as the Lucas generators tend to give a lot of trouble in dusty conditions.

The wiring alterations are pretty simple if you use an alternator with a built in regulator - a wire from the ignition via the charge light and a direct wire to the battery (or probably the starter solenoid). You will need to joint together the wires that go to the B terminal on the original regulator, and it can then be removed. The D terminal wire on the regulator is not used with the alternator.

John

[3 ball]

Well, it is certainly not the original alternator, seeing that they were not even an option on the four cylinder 2a - it would have originally have had a generator. In my view the change to an alternator is worthwhile as the Lucas generators tend to give a lot of trouble in dusty conditions.

The wiring alterations are pretty simple if you use an alternator with a built in regulator - a wire from the ignition via the charge light and a direct wire to the battery (or probably the starter solenoid). You will need to joint together the wires that go to the B terminal on the original regulator, and it can then be removed. The D terminal wire on the regulator is not used with the alternator.

John

Thanks john
just another question, what about all the other wires that are atatched to the regulator there are 5 terminals with 8 wires atatched to them.... ops I just took some pics it seemsthere are 4 terminats 2*A, 1*B,1*D and 1*E. So the question is what to do with the other wires?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/1498.jpg
So the 2 wires on terminal D are not needed then? The thicker one is the old generator output wire and was not conected to the alternator and I think the thin one was conected to the plug at the rear of the alternator.
Cheers
Joel

[JDNSW]

A is the power feed from the battery (actually the starter solenoid). Also has attached to it (unfused!) the lead to the sockets on the dash.
A1 is the power feed to the ignition switch and via a fuse to the interior light if fitted. You need to join A1 and A - I simply made a double ended male spade connector and taped it.

F is the field for the generator - not used with an alternator)
D is the generator output, not used with an alternator, but the thin wire comes from the switched ignition voltage via the generator light and needs to go to the IND terminal on the alternator.

E is the earth lead for the regulator, and is not used if you are removing the regulator.

Hope this helps.

John

[3 ball]

A is the power feed from the battery (actually the starter solenoid). Also has attached to it (unfused!) the lead to the sockets on the dash.
A1 is the power feed to the ignition switch and via a fuse to the interior light if fitted. You need to join A1 and A - I simply made a double ended male spade connector and taped it.

F is the field for the generator - not used with an alternator)
D is the generator output, not used with an alternator, but the thin wire comes from the switched ignition voltage via the generator light and needs to go to the IND terminal on the alternator.

E is the earth lead for the regulator, and is not used if you are removing the regulator.

Hope this helps.

John

Cheers John thats exactly the info I needed.

On a different note I had a chance to atack the bulkhead thismorning befor work and got all the bolts undone and the hydrolics disconected. Now I just have to round up some help to lift it off then I can remove the engine. :D
Cheers
Joel

[3 ball]

Hi all.
Well a mate came over and lended some much needed muscle today and as a result the bulkhead is now off!:D:D:D We had a few dramas getting it clear of the steering collum and the geerstick but nothing a bit of shoving and man-handling didn't fix.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/1407.jpg

The outriggers look serviceable and the bulkhead mounts themselves appear good to.

So after a quick cleen the engine and geerbox will be next. Then I can move it arround the back to the delight of war and finance minister.:D She can finaly have her front yard back after 5 months.
Cheers
Joel

[Dmmos]

Mate you're a trooper - I just got tired looking at the photos :p

All the best, looks like a nice challenge!

Cheers, Dave.

[3 ball]

Well I had another play today andhave started to prepair the engine for removal. First I took out the rear prop shaft, no real dramas there but when it come time for the front shaft I had some trouble with the bolts on both ends. :mad:
So alter skinned nuckles geting the transfer end off I gave up and decided to get the aux battery out of the cruiser and fire the old girl up.:twisted: Of course this was only to grt the thermostat open so I could dump the rather rusty coloured coolant, if you could call it that. As it turns out there wasent a themostat in there anyway,:o I guess that they didn't need one in Wiepa hey.

Any way the old girl still fired up first go.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/793.jpg

OK so the commentary from the camera woman is abit odd but the handbreak was abit supprised that it would still run. The boys sure did get a kick out of it though, there is something about these old trucks that realy gets the kids exited no mater how old they are.
Cheers
Joel