HELP! Noisy TDi 300

[Cliffy]

Got my 130 DC the other day.
My uncle, who looked at it had said that the engine was noisy but as he was comparing it to a 08'Hilux I asumed that he just wasn't prepaired for the racket that a 300 TDi can make.
Weeellll.............. as soon as I got it I thought damn, need valve clearances reset ASAP!
Did that (one valve cap was completely off!!) and still noisy!:(
Reset again with a mate....still noisy.:mad:
Checked injectors cause at this stage we both thought injector knock...all good there!:twisted:
Now what??? I mean, this sounds for all the world like tappets (everyone who hears the donk comments so) but it is clearly not.
The head is new (or so the guy who sold it to be said, but then he didn't tell me about the NOISY ENGINE!:bat:)
He also admitted refitting the old timing belt.......clue?:o
Has he moved the belt 1 notch over causing the injector timing to be out and cause this noise? Could a stretched or poorly set up timing belt cause this noise??
I mean, with out knowing the age of the T-belt it has to come off but do you think any of the above is plausable??

Over to youz!

[justinc]

Check the Vacuum pump using a screwdriver against your ear, they will make a shocking tapping noise like a loose rocker if the valve has come to bits inside the pump. Pretty common.

JC

[Cliffy]

Vacuum pump looks scabby so could well be!
I will check it first thing tomorra!

[lardy]

Gday Cliffy,
if you want a new timing belt gratis i think i still have one you can have, then i guess you want the tensioners too!
but the offer is there if you want it.
I am defiantly doing the bulkhead now mate -once the clutch is sorted that is lol-
I reckon it's rooted pretty much but that some new doors and a paint job should make it alright for a while until something else goes pop.
Give me a shout on that timing belt mate cant get cheaper than free can ya ?

[Cliffy]

Checked out the vacuum pump and actually seems ok.:)
Compared the Defer against the Disco and the Defer 300 TDi sounds sick.:(
It's at this stage I realize I have been BS'ed by the seller when he said this car is A1. Got rello's in the town it came from so this guys name will be MUD!:soapbox:
Looks like a strip down in the next few weeks to get to the bottom of the noise.

[lardy]

Checked out the vacuum pump and actually seems ok.:)
Compared the Defer against the Disco and the Defer 300 TDi sounds sick.:(
It's at this stage I realize I have been BS'ed by the seller when he said this car is A1. Got rello's in the town it came from so this guys name will be MUD!:soapbox:
Looks like a strip down in the next few weeks to get to the bottom of the noise.

have a look at your bulkhead will ya cliff?
mine is only a year newer and rooted and as i posted to another 130 wa owner, might get a better deal importing more than one, just an idea!

So what condition is the oil in the lump does it look healthy ?
Whats the body work like, any early shots mate - before you start tearing into it

[Cliffy]

Oil looks OK.
As the head is new there are no crusties.
I'm wondering too if this is a recon head skimmed too far??!!
Will get an "expert" to have a look. Will also check the injector pump timing just in case.
It just sounds sooooo rattly.

[dullbird]

I didn't think you could skim the heads on the 300 or am I thinking of something else

[Cliffy]

No neither did I but would not stop some people with predicted results (bung head!).
Kev at JRT has given me the good news that my engine is just noisy and there's not much I can do about it!
Will check injector pump timing and timing belt this WE.
Lardy, might scam that belt of you mate.

[justinc]

Cliffy, I would also get the pump timing checked as it could be a little advanced, this will also cause a fair amount of clatter.

JC

[Cliffy]

Justin....I REALLY hope so!!!:(

[Cliffy]

Well, after checking the valve clearances twice and all the fuel system, there seems like only 2 things it can now be.
1) Worn valve gear (unlikely).
2) head has been skimmed and the valves are too close to the pistons (hopefully not hitting).

So the head rocker gear needs to come off first and if good the head.
What a pain!!!

[justinc]

Well, after checking the valve clearances twice and all the fuel system, there seems like only 2 things it can now be.
1) Worn valve gear (unlikely).
2) head has been skimmed and the valves are too close to the pistons (hopefully not hitting).

So the head rocker gear needs to come off first and if good the head.
What a pain!!!

Cliffy,

The other possibilty is that the wrong thickness head gasket was used, this is the way in which the pistons are kept away from the head as they protrude from the block face when manufactured, measurements must be taken and the correct thickness gasket selected to prevent head and piston contact. If you look downon the drivers side of the engine between 3 and 4 cyl you should see a bit of head gasket poking out with some holes stamped in it. the gaskets go in order of thickness 1, 2, 3 and no holes (which is the thickest avail.)

What is on it now?

It is unlikely for the valves to touch unless the timing is out, as in order to get the valves to touch via machining the head, it would have to be butchered down to the valve inserts:o

JC

[Cliffy]

Yeah, my bet is now on wrong head gasket.
Aparently, you have to measure the piston prorusion apst the block and that measurement equates to the appropriate gasket thickness. Never heard of the "no hole"gasket but I'll bet thats the one I need to fit.
As there is good oil supply to the rockers and the donk has only done 240K I doubt the rockers have work that much.

[Cliffy]

AAAAaaaarrrgghhh!!!!
Head gasket is a 3 hole!!!!
So the no hole is the thickest then??
I'm gonna email the seller to make sure this is a so called "new"head or one that's been warped then skimmed too far. He cooked the head so I know the original was warped.
Will have to check the injection timing too but my engine re-builder reconed that was fine.

[lardy]

cliffy hope the hassles improve mate it is worth it in the end but im sure!

mine took a hammering from the RAC re: the clutch which was nice of them, can't wait to see the bill when i get it back tomorrow, they kinda ****ed up and didn't know what they were doing if they had asked i could have told them ...live and learn eh?

[Cliffy]

Well, The head on mine is new (including the valve gear).
The guy that sold it to me said it was noisy BEFORE the new head was fitted.
So that, coupled with the thick head gasket points to........??
Gee I hope it's just pump timing.

[justinc]

Pump iming needs to be done with a Timing tool in the back of the pump to measure plunger lift. Just aligning the pump and crank marks etc isn't accurate enough if the pump gear has been off at some point. Also, I have had a Tdi that had a pump overhaul at some point in its life and the timing couldn't be set right using the pin in the pump as it was grossly advanced when done this way. I Know because when I fitted a belt to it and started it up it had some chronic diesel knock. I checked and re checke dmarks etc and found that only way to set it porperly was to set timing with dial indicator via plunger lift method and when this wass done you couldn't fit the timing pin into the pump! It seems the main drive flange on the pump must be out, most likely when it was set up on the bench etc.
Very annoying:mad:

JC

[Panya]

Cliffy sounds like our 300 tdi. Changed head gasket, timing belt, tappets when we bought 2nd hand 2 years ago. Had a ticking sound that was 1 valve slapping on piston head :eek:. Thicker gasket, torqued head properly, all good. Then ticking sound developed again - I was convinced was tappets. Re-did them about three times just in case - still ticking. Only discovered what it was a couple of weeks ago - the rubber mounts of the air fliter assy perish and break and the ticking the whole thing makes sounds just like noisy tappets. Took the lot out, 2 broken, replaced all four, now sounds like a healthy 300 tdi again. Worth a check!

[lardy]

Cliffy sounds like our 300 tdi. Changed head gasket, timing belt, tappets when we bought 2nd hand 2 years ago. Had a ticking sound that was 1 valve slapping on piston head :eek:. Thicker gasket, torqued head properly, all good. Then ticking sound developed again - I was convinced was tappets. Re-did them about three times just in case - still ticking. Only discovered what it was a couple of weeks ago - the rubber mounts of the air fliter assy perish and break and the ticking the whole thing makes sounds just like noisy tappets. Took the lot out, 2 broken, replaced all four, now sounds like a healthy 300 tdi again. Worth a check!

omg fingers crossed with that then ...

[Cliffy]

Seller has now remembered that he did NOT replace the rocker gear:mad:
Yes I had heard of that mount problem but mine is definately the donk.
As it's a new head with the 3 hole gasket and it was noisy BEFORE he did the head, I'm thinking timing or rocker gear.
Will do tha timing tomorrow and if that fails, the rockers on the WE.
Gonna find a warped head with good rockers and swap em over.

[lardy]

that always ****s me with sellers they can't be straight with you from the get go,
Like i said mine has had loads spent on it just not from the last owner grrr!
Hope you have a final solution now cliff, so you can crack on.

[Cliffy]

Tomorrows the big day.:o
My deisel guy is going to check and adjust the timing measuring the plunger etc.
HOPEFULLY that will cure the clatter. If not, at least he will be able to lend his opinion to the cause (he is a great guy though and a good tech).
If the beast is quieter tomorrow....HAPPY DAYS!!:D

[Cliffy]

:cry: Timing was out but that did not fix the problem!
The noise is definately @ the top on the motor.
Deisel recons he can't pick it, other Rova tech is scratching his head.
It's got me stuffed to!
It's like something has excessive clearance and is tapping. Appears to be louder on the manifold side??!! But that could be cause there's less junk in the way.
What to do!????

[Blknight.aus]

assuming that all the common denominators of valve adjustment, injection timing, injector substitution, vac pump and accessories have been checked properly.

if the head has been machined because it was "banana-ed" (bent up or down at both ends) then the rocker rod mounts may need to be remachined back into alignment and if thats been done but the rockers are worn then they will be the culprit for the noise.

try this.

remove the solenoid wire so the pump wont fuel and roll the engine over on the starter if the noise is still there (it will be quieter and you may need an electronic stethescope to hear it) then drop the timing belt off and remove the rockers so all valves are closed then wind it over again.

if the noise is still there its the wrong head gasket with the one you have being too thin.

if the noise goes away its time to inspect the rockers and rocker shaft for wear and if they appear normal check the valve springs for unusual collet seating. this might indicate a failing or poorly installed valve spring or potentially a dodgy valve guide.

[Cliffy]

Reconnected oil pressure switch. When the engine is hot and at idle, the light is on:o But dissappears when revs pick up. Although not good and I now have to take the whole front of the donk off, I doubt it's the reason for the noise.
Blacknight, the head is new (including valves). It's the 3 dot gasket so it's pretty thick (only the no dot is thicker).
I'm rapidly giving up on this motor in favour of a new one (well good 2nd hand).
I will try those couple of tests and see what comes of it.:(

[Blknight.aus]

just a thought, recheck the little cups on top of the valves when you get it apart.

[Cliffy]

Yeah, I replaced those when I first did the clearances as on had come off!
I have an awfull feeling that the screeching noise I hear when I decelerate (engine braking) is the camshaft bearing dry or broken up.
Access to that is from the back of the donk right?
I will take the head off first I suppose and the front timing cover to get at the oil pump.
If I find anything sus I supposed the lot will have to come out.
Time to hit up the inlaws in Japan to see i they can locate a wrecked 300 TDI disco I can get the whole donk out of!!
There was heaps of cheap discos over there last time we visited (they are of that age).

[lardy]

any joy cliffy ?
how's things panning out mate, hope you are making headway with the engine.

[Cliffy]

Well.....got to the bottom of the bearing noise when decelerating.........front prop shaft UJ totally knackered!!!

Just about to go out and take of the rocker gear (and prop shaft) now.
Will keep youz posted!

[lardy]

Bailey Morris UK - Propshaft Manufacturers (http://www.baileymorris.co.uk/)
this is what i am doing but the extreme version excellent products

[Cliffy]

Ooooo......found a bent push rod on #8!
Not alot but bent just the same!
Top of tappet slide also slightly damaged by pushod (not seated properly).
Am going to replace all the pushrods and see what happens.
Rocker gear was fine!

[lardy]

thank god you were right, bet you thought you were going nuts lol
how much to get her back on the starting blocks mate ?

[Cliffy]

Just gaping tappets now!

Will know if fixed in 30 mins!

fingers crossed!

[justinc]

That'll do it Cliffy, bent pushrods will make tappet adjustment impossible.

I'll wager you will have a nice quite Tdi after this:D

JC

[Jock The Rock]

Out of interest which valve cap was missing? was it #8?

I have a similar noise in my Defender that I can't seem to locate, mine was without #1 valve cap for a while and I'm just wondering whether my pushrod has done the same thing


Cliffy sounds like our 300 tdi. Changed head gasket, timing belt, tappets when we bought 2nd hand 2 years ago. Had a ticking sound that was 1 valve slapping on piston head :eek:. Thicker gasket, torqued head properly, all good. Then ticking sound developed again - I was convinced was tappets. Re-did them about three times just in case - still ticking. Only discovered what it was a couple of weeks ago - the rubber mounts of the air fliter assy perish and break and the ticking the whole thing makes sounds just like noisy tappets. Took the lot out, 2 broken, replaced all four, now sounds like a healthy 300 tdi again. Worth a check!

Hopefully this is the problem with mine. I noticed the other day my rubber mounts were buggered. I have another set coming tomorrow hopefully

[Jeff]

Does the clatter happen all the time?

My TDi makes a horrible racket at idle or low speed, but seems to go away at higher speed. It happened after I had a new cam belt put on, then the mechanic said it was normal diesel knock. Problem is, it comes and goes, and wasn't being very loud at the mechanics, but seems to get worse when warm.

Jeff

:rocket:

[Cliffy]

Well.......new push rods and....................exactly the same!:(
Not one bit quieter!! But have just discovered the vac pump cover loose!
Something else to replace but not the problem i think.
It's a loud tap-tap-tap that appears to come from the top of the motor. Seems to be on only one cylinder. Got me beat!:confused:
Only thing left to do now is either pull the head off and or rip the whole donk out and strip.
It's very hard to pick where it's comeing from but it's load inside the cab.
I will keep you all posted.
(I think it's not the vac pump as the noise does not come from near it)

[Cliffy]

What a job getting that off!!!
Got an eye full of mud. Pump off, noise still there!
Pump cover seemed loose but now tight (maybe cause not in operation).
AAAAAaaaaggghhhhhh!!!!!
Gonna have a good listen with the stethascope and see if I can pin point exactly where this noise is from.
Man this is doing my head in!

[lardy]

gday Cliffy how did you get on ? any further down the road with it mate ?

[Cliffy]

Vacuum pump back on (old rivets drilled out and replaced by small stainless bolts) noise remains!:(
Took off sump, all good there (all jets in place, yes jets!! Your 300 TDi has little jets that are sometimes forgotten in a rebuild and could be a possible source of low oil pressure at idle and NOISE cause you aint gettin oil under the piston).
So now stumped.:confused:
Found some small bits of metal in the sump (always a good sign) that look like they may have been off a tappet slide. No8 looked dodgy from the top so maybe stuffed. got someone looking at the donk with an electronic stethescope Friday. Looks like a strip down!:mad:
Now my question is, the seller of this vehicle failed to mention any of this and when questioned said "I was told it was just normal Landy noise:angel:".
Private sale so "caveat emptor" might be the ruling but has anyone ever had any joy in getting $$$ of someone who has clearly given them a bum steer??:twisted:

[dullbird]

I wouldn't of thought so thats part and parcel of inspecting a vehicle and buying private I would of thought

[Cliffy]

Yes you are right but in this case it was bought "sight unseen"and I had to trust the sellers description due to the vehicles location.
Stupid I know but sometimes you have to trust your fellow man.
Well in this case, he had something to hide and I feel it was a BIG something.
He was asked ALL the usual questions to which the replies were favourable and his ad also failed to metion anything.
I suppose I've been done but I hate to see people get away with this kind of thing!

[dullbird]

I suppose but it wouldn't of stopped you getting it inspected by someone else surely like the NRMA or someone like that.....or is right out in woop woop?

[slug_burner]

I suspect that even a private sale can still be subject to a misrepresentation by one party to obtain a gain. However if the ad said nothing and you have dealt with him only over the phone then it will be a bit difficult to prove that the seller knew otherwise. The only thing I can think of would be to get a hold of the place that was servicing the vehicle and see if they have some record of what they thought the vehicle was like and that the owner was told of the condition. If you can demonstrate that the seller knew there was a problem and answered your question in a manner to mislead you then the seller has entered into deception/misrepresentation. Proving it is the problem. Caveat emptor is the obvious warning to ensure you do not get into a wrangle trying to prove that a seller set out to deceive in order to obtain financial gain.

Disclaimer, I am not a lawyer and if you think it is worthwhile pursuing you should seek professional advice.

[lardy]

cliff there is an ex fesa landy going in east-ish perth i think it had 143 on it and i know you have invested in this one, and dont know if you can get your cash back by breaking this one i am talking about looks shmick but!
was thinking drop out your lump and use the new one, i could buy some bits off ya if you were in the market to spend 10 k it still has its pump on board and is registered just thought i would mention it but its a heap of cash how much is a donk rebuild ?

[Cliffy]

Lardy,

Around $4k for a rebuilt motor.
I think I can do it myself alot cheaper but I just don't want to.
Will see what happens this Friday.

[nice1guv]

cliff there is an ex fesa landy going in east-ish perth i think it had 143 on it and i know you have invested in this one, and dont know if you can get your cash back by breaking this one i am talking about looks shmick but!
was thinking drop out your lump and use the new one, i could buy some bits off ya if you were in the market to spend 10 k it still has its pump on board and is registered just thought i would mention it but its a heap of cash how much is a donk rebuild ?

I bet this is the ex-FESA one.

1995 Land Rover Defender White Fire Truck M (eBay item 260450088181 end time Aug-19-09 19:59:35 EST) (http://cars.ebay.com.au/1995-Land-Rover-Defender-White-Fire-Truck-M_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ260450088181)

[lardy]

Cliffy what's the go haven't heard how you are getting on in ages give us an update mate

[Cliffy]

Well, the verdicts in.............colapsed 3 & 4 piston due to overheating!:o
Pistons are slapping arround in the bores.:eek:
LUCKILY, the bores aren't too badly scorred and a hone should fix em up. New pistons are in and head going back on now. Should know by Monday if noise is gone. Hopefully it is leaving resealing the front block to timing case (low oil pressure at idle) and all foeward of that will get replaced. Rad sevice (to remove ann the spinefex) and a disc skim and I should have a driveable 130. New shocks also coming Monday (Fronts are non-existant).:Thump:
There is NO SUCH THING AS A CHEAP CAR!!!!:mad:
Hopefully all good to go for the long weekend!!!!!:D

[lardy]

Well, the verdicts in.............colapsed 3 & 4 piston due to overheating!:o
Pistons are slapping arround in the bores.:eek:
LUCKILY, the bores aren't too badly scorred and a hone should fix em up. New pistons are in and head going back on now. Should know by Monday if noise is gone. Hopefully it is leaving resealing the front block to timing case (low oil pressure at idle) and all foeward of that will get replaced. Rad sevice (to remove ann the spinefex) and a disc skim and I should have a driveable 130. New shocks also coming Monday (Fronts are non-existant).:Thump:
There is NO SUCH THING AS A CHEAP CAR!!!!:mad:
Hopefully all good to go for the long weekend!!!!!:D

cliffy what you doing for shocks ?

[Cliffy]

Going for after market standard types at the moment as the aim is to get it all running reliably before worrying too much about mods.
Got all 4 shocks plus steering damp. for $400.00 incl freight.
The brand is one of the big 3 UK aftermarket Landy parts distributors.
While not tough dogs, they are 100% better than the totally failed ones on it now.

[lardy]

i bought a tough dog rtc steering damper what a pile of ****.
it's coming off as soon as i get bilsteins sent over.
Am thinking standard height and air bags to the rear in place of the helper coil

[Jock The Rock]

i bought a tough dog rtc steering damper what a pile of ****.
it's coming off as soon as i get bilsteins sent over.
Am thinking standard height and air bags to the rear in place of the helper coil

Hey mate don't fit a Bilstein steering damper they are rubbish :mad:

Made my Landy pull hard to the right

If you do a search I'm not the only one with this problem :(

[lardy]

Hey mate don't fit a Bilstein steering damper they are rubbish :mad:

Made my Landy pull hard to the right

If you do a search I'm not the only one with this problem :(

go figure mine pulls left with the tough dog rtc with any amount of adjustment kinda kicking myself for binning the old one now sods law .....i know it's a stupid question did you get your tracking reassessed after fitting?

[dullbird]

go figure mine pulls left with the tough dog rtc with any amount of adjustment kinda kicking myself for binning the old one now sods law .....i know it's a stupid question did you get your tracking reassessed after fitting?


My tough dog RTC was brilliant...sorry it really sounds like you haven't set it up right

[one_iota]

My Tough Dog RTC worked well on the Disco but I have heard that they don't work very well on the Defender.

[Jock The Rock]

My tough dog RTC was brilliant...sorry it really sounds like you haven't set it up right

DB the Defenders have a different steering setup to a Disco or Rangie. A Bilstein damper will work well in a Disco or Rangie but not in a Defender

I think this has something to do with the fact a standard damper doesn't auto extend, wheras a Bilstein does. Therefore it pushs the wheel to the right

I posted a thread up on it a while ago.

lardy, when you put the Tough Dog in; did it extend or retract by itself at all?

[lardy]

DB the Defenders have a different steering setup to a Disco or Rangie. A Bilstein damper will work well in a Disco or Rangie but not in a Defender

I think this has something to do with the fact a standard damper doesn't auto extend, wheras a Bilstein does. Therefore it pushs the wheel to the right

I posted a thread up on it a while ago.

lardy, when you put the Tough Dog in; did it extend or retract by itself at all?

can't be sure i just followed the instructions on the wrapper .....under how to make your vehicle a pig to drive .....and it came out just like it said it would maybe go back to ya man in balcatta and pay him to do it i might have ****ed it up

[Cliffy]

Getting away from the damper saga......IT"S ALIVE!!:arms:
The heads back on and the noise is GONE!!!!!!:clap2:
Now just gotta get all the seals on the front replaced, inc new timing belt and skim the discs and she'll be ready to play for the long w/e!!:burnrubber:
Lardy, you can have my old damper if it's not stuffed.

[JamesH]

Getting away from the damper saga......IT"S ALIVE!!:arms:
The heads back on and the noise is GONE!!!!!!:clap2:
Now just gotta get all the seals on the front replaced, inc new timing belt and skim the discs and she'll be ready to play for the long w/e!!:burnrubber:
Lardy, you can have my old damper if it's not stuffed.


That's awesome news. have been waiting with baited breathe for this news. The two great sagas of AULRO in 2009, yours and Dullbird's are having the happily ever after ending.

[dullbird]

DB the Defenders have a different steering setup to a Disco or Rangie. A Bilstein damper will work well in a Disco or Rangie but not in a DefenderI think this has something to do with the fact a standard damper doesn't auto extend, wheras a Bilstein does. Therefore it pushs the wheel to the right

I posted a thread up on it a while ago.

lardy, when you put the Tough Dog in; did it extend or retract by itself at all?

Cliffy: Congrats on getting the thing alive again :cool:


Jock: I said a tough dog RTC not a bilstein ;)
I fitted mine under recommendation from discowhite who had one fitted to his defender for sometime with out any problems. by all means you can explain to me why it wont work on a defender rather than a disco...

[Cliffy]

Hmmm...timing cover rear gasket removed as it was suspected to be faulty (low oil pressure at idle). Looked OK;). Now gotta check the pump for scoring and or the relief spring and plunger for damage........ooooo soooooo close.:mad:
Hopefully still looking good for the weekend othwise the Disco will be doing the Collie run!

[lardy]

How dya go Cliffy?
Did she make it back to life ?
I got to commend you for your stead fast attitude and not letting the bugger beat you even when the whole thing was ****ing you off.
your persivearance has paid off and i guess depending how you look at it apart from the time put in, you kinda did get a cheap-er defender.

cheers for the offer on the damper i will get back to you on it ....can't help thinking there is a reason for it pulling left, and will take it too perth fourby centre to get them to have a go at it see if it can be remedied, if not i'll give you a hoy cheers bud.

[Cliffy]

I will know if all is well Tues. Got to the "fire it up stage" and the batt was dead (mechanic speak for we ddin't get it all done before 5PM Friday as promised). All the pump components looked AOK. The cover however was "loose" i.e. screws not tight at all. This may have been allowing the pump to bypass. So I will post the outcome friday nite!
Sounds like steering geometry to me on your bus. I'd guess that, while steering true before the RTC damper was fitted, it has been messed around with. Might have to get you steering reset by some one who knows what they are doing. If that fails by all means have mine!

[lardy]

how did you go Cliffy she all up and running mate ?
I got the steering damper sorted was my bad needed love all good now, least it don't pull any more.
I think Sith in Jandakot might be interested in your damper, but i am not sure that is his issue ....see wa aurions when you get 5 mins regards Andy

[Cliffy]

Well, the latest update is that the motor is back in and sounds and runs great.:D Plenty of power but the oil pressure seems a bit low still but better than before.;) Spent 6 hours putting in the front shocks and steering damper as top studs and nuts had rusted past the point of spanner removal. Took the beast for a spin staight after (4am) to test drive and dump some scrap at work and found the clutch pedal almost went to the floor before it operated!:(
So it looks like the master cylinder will be coming out tomorrow and will be rekitted. I REALLY hope it's not the clutch fork worn thru!!:o
New front shocks really fixed the ride though.:)
The old steering damper is OK so Sith can have it!

[woko]

Cliffy
I have seen when timing belts replaced if the cam is 1 tooth out its noisy but still runs.

[Cliffy]

WOKO.
Yeah, one of my original thoughts but it was basically melted pistons.
Clutch master cyl. out tonite just for laughs:mad:

[lardy]

Cliffy welcome to my world i had the same thing was clutch fork so clutch the lot came out never again would i take a motor to RAC Joondalup because i am too lazy to crack it on the drive lol.
My clutch went rock hard before it gave up the ghost so you may well be lucky and only have the slave or master to worry about.
top tip i think i got my master from some stupid place like repco or other factor cheap as chips apparently same as a common component in a popular aus built motor Andy

[Cliffy]

Ha!
Fitted the rear shocks last nite (another mission as the steel tubes in the rubber bushes had siezed in the tubes.
When I went to drive it.....the clutch was fine!!!
I recon the master cylinders on the way out.
Need a new rear diff ASAP!!!

[lardy]

what you planning on doing about a dif Cliffy?

[Cliffy]

Take both the master and slave cyl. off & s/steel sleeve them both......problem solved!!:D