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View Full Version : low down on what to look for on a 130 dual cab ute



5teve
17th July 2009, 01:56 PM
G'day guys

Just been to look at a 1997 130 Dual cab ute. It has bull bar spotties etc etc..

its covered 194k k's and service history im not too sure on.. but will check out.

Im more interested in whats normal.. ?

the front doors dont close well (im not surprised) and rust wise the doors seem ok at the bottom (a bit but not loads) the footwells are clean but the area where the door seal is has sand in it and surface rust but no holes.

the body has the usual dents in it.. factory fitted ones :)

we have had some heavy rain and there are pools of water in the drivers footwell (dunno if window was open)

the chassis has been blacked (why the hell do they do this?) but cant see any obvious corrosion. i hear they crack but where does this occur?

underneath the engine / gearbox look fairly dry.. a few weeps knocking around and the sump looks like its been off as there is plenty of goo around the sealing face.

engine doesnt look dirty but doesnt look steam cleaned

the back has no cover on it but does have the rails..

tray is scratched up but nothing too bad..

oh.. and the price is 14995

so what else do i need to know.. (yes i know about the cam belt!)

any help would be appreciated as per usual!

Thanks

Steve

spudboy
17th July 2009, 03:19 PM
There is a similar thread running for a newer 130 which might be worth a read: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/83503-02-defender-130-td5-crewcab.html#post1023789

Price sounds reasonable to me for the year and KMs.

Water in footwell can come from a few sources (vents/roof) so probably not from a window being left open. LR quality! You can be pleased about the gaps under the doors so it can find its way out again :)

5teve
18th July 2009, 02:28 PM
Thanks Spud :)

i had read that thread but with this being older i was a bit more concerned plus i dont know the 300tdi very well.

Been back to have a look today with a bit more time and took it for a drive.

firstly it has no history provided, but has just been serviced (probably by dealer) no history of cam belt change just a few receipts for the odd part. This is a worry but the dealer said he will get the cam belt done and the 2 tyres replaced.

it was bought by mainroads in geraldton from new and it looks like they may of only kept it a year or 2 and then it looks like it came down to perth and has been used by a mowing company..

the rust is a but more that i thought initially.. its the drivers and passenger footwell. its not holed, but im wondering if its not far off? how terminal is this usually?

driving wise i found the clutch stiff and difficult to use (probably cause im used to a poncy auto :D) but it seemed that because of that the drivetrain clonked a bit.. there isnt much if any play on the rear prop shaft tho.

its not a fast machine and the accelerator has a long travel so im wondering if the 300tdi issue of cable needing adjusting is required. it puffs a bit of smoke on startup (black) and if you drive it hard it smokes a bit too.. im guessing this is normal..

its basically a bit rough but seems ok... im very impressed at the ride. very smooth compared to a 79 series v8 deisel... (suspension wise!) i noticed it has coils in coils on the rear and what i guess is a sailisbury diff too..

i guess my main question is ... should i walk away?

Thanks

Steve

spudboy
18th July 2009, 04:21 PM
Lack of service history is a downer, for sure.

The 300TDi motor is one of the best ever produced. Simple to fix and as long as you get the belt done every 80,000Km extremely reliable. Not a huge amount of power though.

The black smoke on startup is normal. Black smoke on acceleration may mean the pump has been tweaked to try and get more power.

Drivetrain clonk could either be worn driveshaft flanges, or worn 'A-Frame' bolt/hinge thingy. Land Rovers are usually pretty clunky in the transmission.

The lack of service history and the rust would have me backing away from it. 130 dual cabs are not so rare (although they may be over in WA) and another one will come along soon enough.

Alternatively, make a stupid offer on it and budget a couple of grand to get it fixed up. If you got it for $10K or $11K then it'd be worth fixingup.

Dunno - I'd tend towards "walk away and wait".

Benny_IIA
19th July 2009, 12:37 PM
the rust is a but more that i thought initially.. its the drivers and passenger footwell. its not holed, but im wondering if its not far off? how terminal is this usually?



Steve

Rusty Bulkhead is not terminal as such for the vehicle, but it will require a fair bit of work to change over, basically a full strip down to a rolling chassis. The biggest problem is not the actual work but finding all the bits again:bangin::wallbash:



Bulkheads normally rust from the inside out and also were there are 2 or more folds of steel.


Ben

Cliffy
19th July 2009, 01:41 PM
Ring him up and offer him 10K!!!!
But make sure the donk and gearbox are good, the rest is "easy".

5teve
19th July 2009, 04:01 PM
Lack of service history is a downer, for sure.

The 300TDi motor is one of the best ever produced. Simple to fix and as long as you get the belt done every 80,000Km extremely reliable. Not a huge amount of power though.

The black smoke on startup is normal. Black smoke on acceleration may mean the pump has been tweaked to try and get more power.

Drivetrain clonk could either be worn driveshaft flanges, or worn 'A-Frame' bolt/hinge thingy. Land Rovers are usually pretty clunky in the transmission.

The lack of service history and the rust would have me backing away from it. 130 dual cabs are not so rare (although they may be over in WA) and another one will come along soon enough.

Alternatively, make a stupid offer on it and budget a couple of grand to get it fixed up. If you got it for $10K or $11K then it'd be worth fixingup.

Dunno - I'd tend towards "walk away and wait".

Thanks Spud, yeah i guessed the black smoke on startup was normal and when i say black smoke when accelerating i meant with foot to the floor :)

the disco is a bit clunky but i guess the auto on that takes the major clunks away..

service is the big one for me and also the footwells.. i dont think he will drop to that kind of money.. he said 14 including having the cam belt and the tyres done.. i havent pushed him yet tho.. . time is also an issue with us as we are trying to make the most of this fantastic place so rarely have any free time!




[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]Rusty Bulkhead is not terminal as such for the vehicle, but it will require a fair bit of work to change over, basically a full strip down to a rolling chassis. The biggest problem is not the actual work but finding all the bits again:bangin::wallbash:


Bulkheads normally rust from the inside out and also were there are 2 or more folds of steel.


Ben


thanks Benny.. i know most things can be unbolted and rebuilt in these things but as i mentioned above time is an issue.. if its not holed im guessing it could be repaired.. just depends on how solid it is!


Ring him up and offer him 10K!!!!
But make sure the donk and gearbox are good, the rest is "easy".

thanks too cliffy... im tempted as i think a fair few people have looked and walked away from it... the only issue is the motor.. its sounds ok but no receipts and no history.. well makes it a bit if a risk... i know i could get a new motor fairy cheaply... but i'd like to avoid that if i can :) the gearbox feels tight enough with minimal 'wobble' on the stick...

if it turns into a money pit.. well... im in trouble! :D but i'll get it checked over by someone beforehand if we decide to go for it!

hmmm decisions decisions..

Thanks guys

Steve

wally
19th July 2009, 08:16 PM
Rust in firewall + no service history. I would be giving it a miss. Another one will come along.

Cliffy
19th July 2009, 08:23 PM
I think the going rate at the moment for a DC 130 is 11-13K for one in reasonalbe nick but in need of a tidy up.
They are out there though.
I was really weighing up if a 130 would suit me but now I have mine I LOVE it (bar getting BS'd by the previous owner re it's donk).

malsgoing130
20th July 2009, 04:30 PM
Hi steve,
after nearly 9 months of looking I found a fairly rough one in my price range, a couple of grand cheaper than the one you are looking at. Be prepared to throw lots of money at it if you want a good reliable long distance machine. Mine had a new motor put in 30000 before I bought it or else i would have walked away. Even having said this I have put 1000s into it. Some one once wrote here that there is no such thing as a cheap defender.;););)
200K if its been abused may be the end of the line for the motor, gear bag and transfer box. Total for the 3 is $9500 min if you do the work your self with reconned bits. Just go into with your eyes open and not land roverrised.
Good luck
Mal

86mud
20th July 2009, 05:35 PM
Service history very important!!!!

Bought my 1998 300 TDi 130 HCDU 3 months ago with 190,000 on the clock for $9k....spend a further $9k getting it to my standard only to have the main shaft in the gearbox sheer off a frw weeks ago...destroying the gearobox and the transfer in one hit...so another $5k is being plowed in to her...

you do the maths...buying a second hand car without a service history can be a huge trap for the anyone...

Not happy
Andrew

lardy
20th July 2009, 05:46 PM
G'day guys

Just been to look at a 1997 130 Dual cab ute. It has bull bar spotties etc etc..

its covered 194k k's and service history im not too sure on.. but will check out.

Im more interested in whats normal.. ?

the front doors dont close well (im not surprised) and rust wise the doors seem ok at the bottom (a bit but not loads) the footwells are clean but the area where the door seal is has sand in it and surface rust but no holes.

the body has the usual dents in it.. factory fitted ones :)
P.s. i am getting a bulkhead for mine so it aint such a drama mate just you have to do it yourself or pay heaps to get it done

we have had some heavy rain and there are pools of water in the drivers footwell (dunno if window was open)

the chassis has been blacked (why the hell do they do this?) but cant see any obvious corrosion. i hear they crack but where does this occur?

underneath the engine / gearbox look fairly dry.. a few weeps knocking around and the sump looks like its been off as there is plenty of goo around the sealing face.

engine doesnt look dirty but doesnt look steam cleaned

the back has no cover on it but does have the rails..

tray is scratched up but nothing too bad..

oh.. and the price is 14995

so what else do i need to know.. (yes i know about the cam belt!)

any help would be appreciated as per usual!

Thanks

Steve
Steve'o' my 1998 130 is on the grass out the front if you want to come have a butchers and we can go over it i'll point out what i found. 0430465588 (andy)....don't listen to the pro's from the seller when buying a 130 or any other vehicle people are full of ****.
The bloke i bought mine of showed me receipts galore and i am playing catch up now as it's not what he paid out on it's what the owner before him paid out on.
look at your power steering box,injector pump, and listen to the lump that will cover the really costly stuff, then look for the swivel housing leaks transfer case gearbox, also the steering/ball joints/steering damper/swivel balls/ wheel bearings and suspension

Cliffy
21st July 2009, 01:20 AM
Someone recently said to me "there's no such thing as a cheap 4WD".
Having read my fellow 130 owners woes I would tend to agree.
But, you know what.....I'd still have a Landy any day!!!
I am yet to lavish $$$ on my 130 but when I bought my Disco1, I spent some time and $ fixing the things I knew stuffed up on them before they did.
6 years later and the only things I've put into it is Oil, filters, grease, coolant and a 2nd hand brake booster.
Maintenance is the key to keeping anything going strong for years.
If you get the car, spend the time fixing the things that go BEFORE they go.
On my 130 I will do the P gasket and water pump, all hoses, take off the PTO cover and look at the back of the mainshaft (and fit an oil thrower before the shaft rusts and shears) and all the other bits as soon as I can. Hopefully I will get the same run out of the Defer I did on my Disco.

ellard
21st July 2009, 01:32 AM
Hi there


Someone recently said to me "there's no such thing as a cheap 4WD".

Not always true - as theres a few bargins out there for those whom do there own repairs.

All the best

Wayne

Cliffy
21st July 2009, 04:58 PM
Yes, for me (and I'm thinking you too!) that's true.
But for 80% of owners, failures = $$$$$:(

lardy
21st July 2009, 07:38 PM
Someone recently said to me "there's no such thing as a cheap 4WD".
Having read my fellow 130 owners woes I would tend to agree.
But, you know what.....I'd still have a Landy any day!!!
I am yet to lavish $$$ on my 130 but when I bought my Disco1, I spent some time and $ fixing the things I knew stuffed up on them before they did.
6 years later and the only things I've put into it is Oil, filters, grease, coolant and a 2nd hand brake booster.
Maintenance is the key to keeping anything going strong for years.
If you get the car, spend the time fixing the things that go BEFORE they go.
On my 130 I will do the P gasket and water pump, all hoses, take off the PTO cover and look at the back of the mainshaft (and fit an oil thrower before the shaft rusts and shears) and all the other bits as soon as I can. Hopefully I will get the same run out of the Defer I did on my Disco.
Cliff what the frig is an oil thrower ? i guess it disperses oil around the place ?!
I take it, it is an aftermarket bit of kit regards andy

Cliffy
23rd July 2009, 10:49 PM
I think that's what they are called (Oil Thrower).
Anyway, it was the fix before the cross drilled shaft. I'll be taking a peek regardless cause if I see RUST I have to do something before it goes *SNAP* when I'm trying to get off Fosters Beach!!

101 Ron
23rd July 2009, 11:22 PM
I have had my 1994 TDI 300 DC 130 for years and purchased it second hand at 60k and now have done 140 k
I have found AULRO fantastic in advoidling problems before they cost you money.
I have not spent no big money on my defender so far and it has not really let me down.
But there has been alot of smaller problems that could have turned into big expensive problems.
My great saving is the fact I am a motor mechanic.
At the risk of upsetting alot of people here.........
If you want some thing reliable for the money , go buy a Nissan Patrol.
If you want the landrover ride and body style, then you will have to put up with the problems and possible expensive risks in owning on of these vehicles.
I love the vehicle, but the rover engineering is why major jap brands out sold rover many times over.