How to install an IC-440 in a D3

[WhiteD3]

Icom IC-440 + GME AE4018K1 aerial.

Install the aerial and run the coax around the engine bay to the driver's side, into the second battery compartment.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Remove the grommet in the fire wall and cut it from one side to the centre, cut out the centre to leave a hole. Poke a big screw driver through to put a hole through the insulation in the foot well.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

In the cabin, remove the panel under the steering wheel by pulling out (toward you) from the top of the panel. Watch for flying clips; make sure you find them!

Remove the driver's side kick panel by pulling up the sill panel, then the dust seal. Pull the kick panel toward yourself, parallel to the side of the car.
Remove the panel above the pedals by undoing 2 retaining screws located at the front of the panel.

Remove the panel holding the driver's side vent and head light switch by pulling out from the top, near the vent, Watch the clips!

I couldn't find a spot where I could install the cradle and still slide out the radio.

With the cradle aligned so that the mic socket is toward you, bend back the 2 RHS semi-circular mounting thingies so they are at 90° to the base.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Pass the radio and base from the foot well up into the dash directly under where the head light switch would be. Align the 2 bent bits to the side of the hole in the panel. Drill 1 hole in the plastic dash frame on the LHS of the hole aligned to the top or forward mount hole of the cradle. Drill 2 holes into the (RHS) side of the plastic dash frame (you'll see where when you get there but the drill will be pointing towards the RHS door).

Fasten the cradle with the radio in situ with 3 cable ties.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
You can see the mic lead plugged into the radio in the shot above.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

At this point you can either pick up power from a wire off the head light switch or run back through the grommet to the battery. I chose to do the latter as I have a second battery and the IC-440 has an auto off feature which I've set to 1 hour. Also, the D3's annoying beeping when you leave the keys in the ignition may be a pain when you want to use the radio with the engine off.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Run the mic extension cable (comes with the radio) around to the centre console. You'll need to remove the centre console; pull one side at a time from the bottom of the console toward you. It need a lot of force and of course, watch for clips! Once the two bottom side are loose, the whole thing hinges up at the vents.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

At this point I think I'll leave the mic free floating.

[Selwyn]

Looks good I've been wondering where to install my GME 3440 and this looks like it will work out for me as I’ve got a second battery installed.
Thanks
Selwyn

[Mal_W]

I installed my GME 3440 by attaching it to the passenger's side of the central console with double sided tape. It just squeezes in alongside the seat. I unscrewed the circular clip from the back of the handpiece and applied stick on black velcro to the back. I then ran the other half of the velcro up either side of the radio. Being black it blends in OK and can be removed if necessary. That way you can hang up the mike on either side of the radio depending whether the passenger or driver is using it, although each can still reach it from their opposite side. The antenna and power run through the firewall, the latter to the second battery and the antenna to a boot mount on the trailing edge of the bonnet on the passenger's side which makes the antenna barely noticeable even from the passenger's seat.

Mal

[gps-au]

Personally I run a heavy 12VDC line to under the right 2nd row seat (5 seater) which is plugged into a "RigRunner".

Then the IC-440 is attached to the base board the rigrunner is attached to under the seat.

Thus all additional electrical "INSIDE" the vehicle is actually plugged into the rigrunner.

External 50A Anderson runs under the vehicle to the second battery compartment. (at the time I had not identified the method for run thru the chassis).

30A Anderson connectors are cheap and reliable, and the cost of rigrunners are not over the top.

I really didn't like the idea of running your antenna cable THRU the removable grill, just not a good idea in my opinion, also makes it harder to wrap the grill with flyscreen if you need to ;-)

[Garry]

Exactly the same installation as mine, I however screwed the speaker / mic holder just behind the handbrake.

Stops it rattling about but still gives easy un-obstrusive access


G

[WhiteD3]

Thanks Garry, but from the driver's seat it'd be upsidedown?

[Ashes]

Thanks for the write up. I'm storing up these ideas for the future!

Looks like a very neat installation with everything tucked away. Well done!

A couple of questions..

Any reason why the unit can't sit in the drivers footwell on the shelf under and to the left of the steering wheel (which I found today:))? Taped/velco'd in place. Only had a quick look so I'm guessing an obvious reason why not (obvious, except to me!)

How long is the extension cord with this unit? I like the idea of running the extension cord and unplugging the handset when the car is being used around town.

Does unplugging the handset with this unit power it down?

As for power, any major issue running the power directly from the primary battery (at least until I consider a 2nd battery) given the Icom 440 can be programmed to have an auto off.

On my bike I installed a fuse box to power a few extra items (gps, heated seats, extra power outlet, autocom unit. The fuse box has 3 always on outlets and 5 that run of a relay so I'm keen to consider a similar option for some extra power in the D3.

Sorry for all the questions:p

[WhiteD3]

Any reason why the unit can't sit in the drivers footwell on the shelf under and to the left of the steering wheel (which I found today:))? Taped/velco'd in place. Only had a quick look so I'm guessing an obvious reason why not (obvious, except to me!)
Sorry, but I don't know where you mean:(


How long is the extension cord with this unit? a metre + at least.


Does unplugging the handset with this unit power it down? Thought of that today myself....must check.


As for power, any major issue running the power directly from the primary battery (at least until I consider a 2nd battery) given the Icom 440 can be programmed to have an auto off. Only the risk of a mistake and flat battery when you don't want it.

[Ashes]

Yep, that statement was real clear I guess:eek:

Seems to be a fairly accessable area directly above the left foot rest. At least in my car. Seems to me that it is an ideal place to put a UHF. Can easily get my hand in there. I'm not sure if this photo explains it.

The photo is taken near the drivers door, from the floor, looking pretty much up (you can see the brake pedal and diagnosit port. The thin oval at the top of the photo is near the trim under the steering wheel but the larger opening near the brake pedal is the one I'm talking about. There is even some insulation on top of it.. Hope that makes it a bit clearer.

[WhiteD3]

Gottya.

In my post I referred to this panel here...

Remove the panel above the pedals by undoing 2 retaining screws located at the front of the panel.

Take 2 secs to remove and once you do you'll see it pretty flexible and weak. I doubt it'd support the radio for any length of time on a bumpy road. There's a cable loom above that spot to which I've cable tied my bluetooth handsfree speaker.

[WhiteD3]

..........Does unplugging the handset with this unit power it down?


No, tried that this morning.

[Ashes]

I haven’t taken that panel out so it was a bit hard to tell how strong it was. On the other hand, I’m guessing the radio probably isn’t that heavy and if it’s not in the mounting bracket you might get away with it if its weight is distributed and it is secured Anyways, might let someone else try it first. Your mounting position is certainly much more secure.

Pity about removing the headset not powering down the unit, would have been a great option for part time/weekend users. I assume though that if you don’t turn the handset on via the switch the unit stays powered off anyway so probably not a problem anyway.

If I put a radio in, it will be a stealth install to please SWMBO so either a handheld or a handset/remote unit are my options. Will need to do a bit of research on aerial options though.

We love our D3 after the first 6 weeks and are looking to do a few more family trips in it and some basic/easy 4WD. I can see that we will get some use out of a UHF, would also probably get use out of a 2nd battery and fuse box to run a fridge and various kid electrics..

[WhiteD3]

The panel we are talking is fixed by 2 small screws at the front and by 3 plastic fingers at the back, that slot into the insulation of the fire wall. It'd cause hell if it drop out on your feet!:D

[bobzed57]

Good posts guys and give me some ideas for my own install. Hi Mal_W, could you please post a photo of how you did your antenna mount.

I don't have any bar work and am looking at ways of mounting the antenna. The shape of the bonnet won't allow a regular z-mount to work.

Thanks

Bob Z

[Garry]

Thanks Garry, but from the driver's seat it'd be upsidedown?

Ah well mine is a GME and I suppose it is upside down, thats when my boy doesnt have it in his hand speaking to his little cousin.

But in saying that is a set and forget for me, I switch it on when I leave and switch it off when I return, mine is connected to the Aux battery so I can leave it on when the car is parked and not worry about the starting battery.

As for the shelf that was mentioned, not so strong, I would be wary about mounting anything there IMO

G

[gps-au]

As for the shelf that was mentioned, not so strong, I would be wary about mounting anything there IMO


If you need electrical for anything ON (being stuck ON) the windscreen, its a handy place to put some dual 12vdc recepticals on the top side.

[Mal_W]

[. Hi Mal_W, could you please post a photo of how you did your antenna mount.

I don't have a photo, but go to benelec.com.au, click on search, and enter part no. 027303, which is for Adjustable Tilt Lip Mount, and you will see how it can work. The underside of the mount that contacts the paintwork on the car has a protective rubber pad, and it tightens up underneath with two screws onto a thin plate. I paid $25 for the mount. The antenna is of course extra.

Mal_W

[bobzed57]

Thanks Mal_W

Looks like it could work

Cheers

Bob

[daisy89]

Any chance of getting these pictures back? :D

[WhiteD3]

Sorry, no. The D3 is long gone as are the pics.

[unseenone]

If you don't have a bull bar you might consider this hood mount made by Lab Electronics in Australia. If you speak with him, I would also suggest he whip up a rail mount version for the roof as well. Aerial Bracket (http://www.labtronx.com.au/aerial-bracket.htm)

It's important to remember that the roof rail is not grounded, so you will need to run a ground strap.

In the ideas department, I have the Traxide system installed so there are options. I installed the radio in the rear storage compartment, and drilled holes for the power and antenna runs out of the bottom. The radio head, and mic are installed up from with a remote head kit. All in all it's a very slick install.

The power is tapped off the rear Anderson Power Pole, as well as solar, fridge outlets, and so on.

I've taken quite a few pictures, if it helps someone else of the installation.

Seat Rail Mount Head
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/11463/normal_20140428_095707-s.jpg

Antenna Base, ferrite, coiled coax, ground strap
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/11463/normal_20131018_140334-s.jpg

Ground Strap Point at boot hinge point, when doing roof aerial
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/11463/normal_P1020986-s.JPG

Power Control Center
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/11463/normal_20140502_150543-s.jpg

Here is the Radio and a Bionics Tracker in the cubby. Radio has heavy duty Velcro, so it is quick to remove.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/11463/normal_20140721_1633200-s.jpg

You can feed the coax in and there is a spot under the rubber molding to run the cable behind the trim, and up into the box. No cable is exposed this way. I consider it critical to do the 5 turns of the coax, and the snap on ferrite, as well as securing the cable neatly and snug, so it does not get caught on anything. There are no noise issues with this installation.

There are a number of flexible seat bolt mounts available, I'm sure you also have them there.

Annoying Link
Amazon.com: seat bolt radio mount: Electronics@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31nzaDiiUdL.@@AMEPARAM@@31nzaDiiUdL

[Grasshoppr]

Icom IC-440 + GME AE4018K1 aerial.

Install the aerial and run the coax around the engine bay to the driver's side, into the second battery compartment.


http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/2469/pict0001njt.jpg
http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/5751/pict0002h.jpg

Remove the grommet in the fire wall and cut it from one side to the centre, cut out the centre to leave a hole. Poke a big screw driver through to put a hole through the insulation in the foot well.

http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/1528/pict0006qjp.jpg

In the cabin, remove the panel under the steering wheel by pulling out (toward you) from the top of the panel. Watch for flying clips; make sure you find them!

Remove the driver's side kick panel by pulling up the sill panel, then the dust seal. Pull the kick panel toward yourself, parallel to the side of the car.
Remove the panel above the pedals by undoing 2 retaining screws located at the front of the panel.

Remove the panel holding the driver's side vent and head light switch by pulling out from the top, near the vent, Watch the clips!

I couldn't find a spot where I could install the cradle and still slide out the radio.

With the cradle aligned so that the mic socket is toward you, bend back the 2 RHS semi-circular mounting thingies so they are at 90° to the base.

http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/3133/clipboard01awj.jpg

Pass the radio and base from the foot well up into the dash directly under where the head light switch would be. Align the 2 bent bits to the side of the hole in the panel. Drill 1 hole in the plastic dash frame on the LHS of the hole aligned to the top or forward mount hole of the cradle. Drill 2 holes into the (RHS) side of the plastic dash frame (you'll see where when you get there but the drill will be pointing towards the RHS door).

Fasten the cradle with the radio in situ with 3 cable ties.

http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/3144/pict0009vwb.jpg
You can see the mic lead plugged into the radio in the shot above.
http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/3003/pict0007prw.jpg
http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/2069/pict0008g.jpg

At this point you can either pick up power from a wire off the head light switch or run back through the grommet to the battery. I chose to do the latter as I have a second battery and the IC-440 has an auto off feature which I've set to 1 hour. Also, the D3's annoying beeping when you leave the keys in the ignition may be a pain when you want to use the radio with the engine off.
http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/4848/pict0003f.jpg

Run the mic extension cable (comes with the radio) around to the centre console. You'll need to remove the centre console; pull one side at a time from the bottom of the console toward you. It need a lot of force and of course, watch for clips! Once the two bottom side are loose, the whole thing hinges up at the vents.

http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/3377/pict0010lnu.jpg
http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/6482/pict0011q.jpg

At this point I think I'll leave the mic free floating.


Just putting the first uhf into my D3 I just purchased.
best discription ever
cheers Bruce.
ps it took my a while to find the clip thingy that flew off up the dash :p