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lardy
22nd July 2009, 10:01 PM
having noted that you guys have had some amazing dramas with your new pumas, i thought i would make a thread quoting a piece in this months lro international magazine.
They state that earlier versions of the puma (where they claim most of the issues were) should have been corrected during dealer servicing.
They also say in a few months time the first 2.4 tdci will be out of warranty, and so when buying one second hand you need to check the issues following have been rectified.
ENGINE
The 2.4 is the best electronically controlled engine there has been in a Defender (not hard only had the td5 prior)
Engine knock: this should all be sorted by now. a few early engines developed a heavy knocking sound when started, which was attributed to a lubricating problem.
The tdci engine has oil cooling jets (also known as piston control jets) inside the engine block.
When the engine is running, these jets fire pressurised engine oil at the underside of the pistons and cylinder bores.
The oil flow from the jets is controlled by springs which on some engines didn't allow oil through until the oil had warmed up -which was a bit late, hence the knocking sound due to accelerated engine wear.
Land Rover didn't mess with this issue.
Affected engines were replaced and all subsequent units fitted with improved jet springs.
Damage to the engine oil pan (sump)
On some 07/08 models the front propshaft uj at the diff end could contact the the engine oil pan during extreme axle articulation when off roading.
Inertia of the vehicle being jolted and the natural flex of the mounting bushes allowing the transmission to move (that's normal) may also be a contributory factor.
this contact is likely to be heard as a knock, the contact mark will be visible on the side of the pan near the prop uj .
Dealers will have checked this during routine servicing and replaced the oil pan with a later type ...the later type has an indentation opposite the prop joint.

Engine warning lamp
Many issues can cause the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) to come on, including fuel problems -which we'll look at later.

Starter motor does not engine
This is a rare (and that is optimistic lol) electrical issue and may be due to the vehicle's immobiliser system ...this cannot be confirmed at present ( yay for land rover!)
Starter motor
Repetitive starter motor failure has been attributed to a problem with the ignition barrel allowing the starter to overrun after the ignition key is released (had that on a disco 1 but it was old!) The fault was iliminated from VIN: 775971 and any earlier vehicles will have it's ignition checked if a starter problem is experienced.
Fuel System
Some vehicles have suffered water and dirt ingress to the fuel system via the fuel tank vent pipe.
Although the vent points down, it's location in the rear right wheel arch means that wheelspray and splash can enter the open end subsequently causing problems at the fuel filter and engine.
The symptoms often occur just after driving off, and may show as starting problems, misfires, low power or rough running.
Fuel filter problems will activate the MIL and can cut power by putting the engine into limp home mode.
If certain fault codes are logged in the ECU it may be necessary to replace the fuel metering valve and or the fuel pressure relief valve.
That requires the pump to be re-coded to the ECU using IDS.
The filter should usually be drained every 1200 miles and renewed every 24000. A filter change requires the use of a special pump to draw fuel back into the engine, though you can avoid this by brimming the new filter with fresh fuel prior to fitting.
In one case, 20mm of water was found in the fuel filter after 10000 miles, so the 12000 miles stipulated period for draining should always be adjusted for extreme conditions, as is always the case with any servicing intervals. Some garages recommend changing (or at least draining) the filter at 6000 miles. Much depends on the vehicle and what it is being used for.
If the symptoms are occurring without evidence of water in the system, dealers may investigate further, checking the electrical wiring/connectors in the fuel rail.
FUEL METERING VALVE
The fuel metering value in the high pressure fuel pump and the fuel pressure relief valve (PRV) in the end of the engine fuel rail have caused problems - and the individual valves are not repairable. The PRV protects the system from overpressure and once it has operated, it needs replacement. Before, problems with the fuel pressure relief valve required the completer fuel rail to be replaced, and the fault on the fuel metering valve needed renewal of the complete high pressure fuel pump. Land Rover has since made the valves available to buy individually. Symptoms of metering and relief valve problems include low engine power, misfires and reluctance to start, but the vehicle has to be connected to the LR IDS system to confirm failure of these items.
BRAKES - CALIPER/PAD NOISE
A rattle or a click may be heard from the front brakes when travelling over uneven surfaces, or as the brakes are applied. If it occurs as the brakes are applied (usually a single knock), it is likely only to be heard again the next time the pedal is pressed. It's caused by a brake pad moving upward slightly as it grips the disc when the brake is applied. This free movement is designed into the brake to ensure pad to disc clearance during off road driving, thus avoiding brake bind. There is nothing wrong with either the pad or the caliper under these conditions.
Be aware thought, that the noise could also be due to looseness in the caliper or suspension attachments, so check that all associated bolts are tight.
If the noise occurs while you are driving with the brake pedal released, the brake disc run-out and the wheel bearing settings may need to be checked.
If your garage confirms that a problem exists with the brake, anti-rattle clips can be fitted quickly to reduce - or even eliminate - the noise.
BRAKE VACUUM PUMP
Oil staining on the underside of the front left of the bonnet suggests that the oil seal on the brake vacuum pump has failed. The suggested cause is dirt damage to the lip of the oil seal. A new pump will be needed, taking less than an hour to fit.
The new pumps have an extra lip on the dirt seal that helps prevent dirt getting through. A similar problem has been experienced on Fords with the same basic engine, but not to the extent of the Defender.
BODYWORK
*Bonnet Latch
Bonnet latch cable adjustment and safety catch alignment issues are not new to the Defender, so it is surprising that instances have still cropped up in the new model. Ensure that the safety catch on the underside of the bonnet is aligned correctly with its latch plate on the shut panel, and that the main bonnet fastener holds the bonnet firmly closed over rough ground. If the bonnet springs open, with the safety latch doing its job and holding it, all that is usually needed is a simple cable adjustment to ensure the remaining catch is set to close fully when the bonnet is slammed.
TRANSMISSION DRIVELINE, Gear Selection and Noisy Clutch
Clutch disc damper springs on early models tended to weaken and loosen, causing them to rattle and making gear changes difficult. LR has addressed this problem by fitting improved clutch covers and clutch discs. Damper springs in the new clutch discs have normal free movement of about half a millimetre.
There have been problems with the transmission sticking in gear, which was previously cured by replacing the transmission. The fault concerned the selector shaft detents (springs) which are now available as a servicable part.
Propshaft.
Check that grease nipples are fitted to the propshafts and that they are tight. If nipples are not fitted - have a word to your dealer.
INTERIOR - Audio Speakers
Here, at last is a Defender in which you can actually talk and listen to the sound system at the same time. You may also hear vibration and rattles, seemingly coming from the speakers - but this may actually be caused by trim issues. Try pressing on the surrounding trim pieces to check if the noise disappears.
reproduced with the aid of the missus...who can type heaps quicker than me

BilboBoggles
23rd July 2009, 09:54 AM
Thanks Lardy - a very nice summary!

lardy
23rd July 2009, 12:34 PM
Thanks Lardy - a very nice summary!

Bilbo thank the missus she did the majority as she was over watching me banging away at the keyboard lol.
I just thought there are some items that may well be useful as land rover isn't coming good on help with the puma it seems

PAT303
23rd July 2009, 02:25 PM
How is putting bigger oil jets going to stop engine knock?. Pat

BilboBoggles
23rd July 2009, 05:17 PM
Believe they changed the springs that hold the cooling jets closed to prevent them from locking closed if you gave the engine too many revs on a cold day. If you run the engine without the cooling jets the pistons scrub themselves on the bore and develop a lot of slop. That's what causes the knock, it's piston slap.

PAT303
23rd July 2009, 05:57 PM
In the puma is there two set's of jets?,one for cooling and one for lube?.Hot or cold the pistons need oil. Pat

solmanic
23rd July 2009, 06:27 PM
I'm sure there are a bunch of other Puma issues not mentioned in this article. Some that I seem to recall from various peoples' posts here and on the Defender2 forum are:


Front & rear diff problems
Prop-shaft problems
Rattles from mis-aligned hand brake drums
Leaks around & under windscreen
Roof gutter alignment/paint/sealing issues
Brake fluid reservoir rubbing on underside of bonnet
Faulty air conditioner thermal cut-off valves

BilboBoggles
23rd July 2009, 07:36 PM
Rusty chassis welds
Poor paint on rear crossmember
rear cross member bent like a Banana from the factory

BilboBoggles
23rd July 2009, 07:40 PM
Here is the section out of the offical buletin from LR on the engine knock issue.

Content Issue: Heavy audible knocking heard on start up.
Cause: On start up oil pressures can cause the piston cooling jets, (PCJ), to latch into a zero flow condition. Due to hysteresis effect in design the jets do not unlatch until the engine is warm and the oil pressures lower again. During this time with no pressurized oil jet flow to the lower pistons / cylinder bores, overheat and scuff conditions / damage can occur.

PAT303
23rd July 2009, 09:51 PM
If thats true ALL the people,Dullbird first up should have new engines fitted.Running with dry bores would cause severe piston slap as the cylinders would wear egg shaped. Pat

dullbird
24th July 2009, 08:46 AM
yeah how ever our problem is not related as its not on start up....

lardy
24th July 2009, 10:32 AM
I'm sure there are a bunch of other Puma issues not mentioned in this article. Some that I seem to recall from various peoples' posts here and on the Defender2 forum are:


Front & rear diff problems
Prop-shaft problems
Rattles from mis-aligned hand brake drums
Leaks around & under windscreen
Roof gutter alignment/paint/sealing issues
Brake fluid reservoir rubbing on underside of bonnet
Faulty air conditioner thermal cut-off valves


why don't you guys go and collect your issues noted and send them to neil@lro.com i reckon maybe we are not getting the best service in the world over here, they reckon that Land Rover sends out letters to owners who may benefit from up-grades has anyone received such a letter ?
now neil did not write this article was called new defender 2.4 issues and solutions and was in August edition of the magazine it would be great to put a piece in from the AULRO collective and see what response we get and weather they have answers regards Andy.

Grockle
25th July 2009, 06:49 PM
Andy,have seen the article your referring to,we've had afew issues but even over here we have never been contacted by LR regarding upgrades etc.

cess
4th October 2009, 09:25 AM
Hi i am on my 3th rear diff , this one still makes a whine on the float at about 100kms and is quite loud. Any ideas?:confused::mad:

Grockle
4th October 2009, 11:28 PM
Hi i am on my 3th rear diff , this one still makes a whine on the float at about 100kms and is quite loud. Any ideas?:confused::mad:

Backlash between crown wheel and pinion

Bush65
5th October 2009, 07:32 AM
Hi i am on my 3th rear diff , this one still makes a whine on the float at about 100kms and is quite loud. Any ideas?:confused::mad:
There appear to have been manufacturing/assembly quality issues leading to some requiring replacement.

You are having worse luck unfortunately.

Having said that, the diffs are not particularly strong, especially compared to the Salisbury that was used in earlier 110/130's.

In a thread about strength of P38 diffs compared to disco diffs in another forum, Dave Ashcroft posted the following, after someone else commented that the military Wolfe use the P38 diff, so assume it is stronger:

the Military went to the wolfe axle not because the P38 diff was stronger but the axle housing could be strengthened to take a higher GVW, the tubes were coming out of the cast housing on the salisbury,

The P38 4 pin diff centre is better than the 2 pin disco type but the ring and pinion are weaker as the P38 pinion is shorter, ie bigger load on the pinion bearings,
__________________
regards

Dave

Ashcroft Transmissions (http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk)
AFAIK the P38 diff was used in later TD5 Defenders and I am assuming still used in the new models.

Edit: I wonder if they might use crush sleeves for pinion bearing preload now, instead of solid spacers - that could be another explanation.

Captain_Rightfoot
5th October 2009, 06:06 PM
Hi i am on my 3th rear diff , this one still makes a whine on the float at about 100kms and is quite loud. Any ideas?:confused::mad:

An ARB airlocker should see to that :)

austastar
5th October 2009, 06:39 PM
Hey Guys,
you are making me nervous. All this with a new vehicle?
cheers

Blknight.aus
5th October 2009, 06:47 PM
only some...

we only seem to get friday arvo and wednesday rovers down here..


FWIW... a lot of the faults in the donk itself are not just limited to the deefer, some of them turn up in the transit van versions as well....


(at least i dont think we inherited the clutch/flywheel problem that Ive heard about)

WD 130
6th October 2009, 12:38 AM
Seems only a few faults are listed, mine has now done 38000K and I think its finally sorted out!!! ( we will see )

Replaced Steering damper(Shield not welded on properly)
Replaced both rear brake shields (both cracked)
Replaced Vacumn pump(Leaking)
Replaced rear diff(Whine)
Replaced Transfer case(Chasing vibration but to no avail)
Replaced Clutch(Springs loose)
Replaced rear inside door trim(Some clip broken from new)
Replaced Radio ( extremely poor am reception we live outside of the city)

Motor seems to go well with none of the issues mentioned comming up. It still has a vibration in the driveline somewhere, appears the 130's have it and 110's don't ... work that out!

I guess that Land rover has been only building these things for a little over 60Years, if they don't get it right soon I may look at something else

Cheers Wayne

spudfan
6th October 2009, 02:16 AM
Regarding the vibration issue mentioned above. It could be that the rear prop shaft has not been fitted properly. If you look at the prop shaft you will notice a small balancing weight welded to it. The shaft must be fitted with aligning marks lined up.On the 110 the marks are on the sliding member of the shaft. If fitted incorrectly it will cause a bad vibration. It could be the same with the 130.

Allan
6th October 2009, 08:44 AM
I traced my vibration, 2 days after the dealer had had it for a week, down to the rear sway bar touching the tank guard. Could be worth a look

Allan