Who broke my flexplate!

[81stubee]

:BigCry: After having a fantastic day on saturday, I decided to investigate the rattling noise at idle on sunday.

Well, here's what I found!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

So it's out with the engine again. Does anybody know an easy way? Or how to get to the bell housing bolts without disassembling the motor?

But I had a good day on saturday, and look forward to meeting you all again.

Stu

[andrew e]

I once saw my mechanic friend remove a p38 engine in under 2 hours (and that was from a driving car). Amazingly quick if you have done a few. He unbolted the steer pump and ac compressor first, and left the lines connected, which i never thought of doing that way, but it makes sence, as there is less to drain.

As for the bolts, yes you can get to them without removing the manifold, get a couple of 1/2 inch socket extensions and you can get at them from above the gearbox. Its a bit tricky, but very possible. Do these before the bottom ones.

Also unbolt the torque converter off the flex plate, rather than pulling it all out with the engine. It makes it easier when you put it back in. It is easier to get those bolts out with the sump off.

Andy

[p38arover]

I've read of people (on RRNET) who have changed the flex plate without removing the box or engine - they slide the trans and engine apart somehow.

If you pull the engine, closely examine the hub aligner in the end of the crankshaft for wear and also the nose of the torque converter for damage.

If they are damaged and you don't notice/fix it, you will break another flex plate.

Ask me how I know.... :(

Here's the chewed hub aligner

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/126.jpg

You can see the damaged nose here. I think too much wear allows the torque converter to move around and stress the flex plate.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/127.jpg

Also check that the fingers on the flywheel aren't damaged as they can get bent and screw up the crank angle sensor signal. In the pic below you can see the starting point (the missing pulse) then a few pulses in one smaller pulse (teeth opened up) and high pulse (teeth closed up):

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/1219.jpg

[willem]

:BigCry: After having a fantastic day on saturday, I decided to investigate the rattling noise at idle on sunday.

Well, here's what I found!

http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/8400/img3307.jpg

http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/3439/img3316q.jpg

http://img505.imageshack.us/img505/3023/img3310.jpg

So it's out with the engine again. Does anybody know an easy way? Or how to get to the bell housing bolts without disassembling the motor?

But I had a good day on saturday, and look forward to meeting you all again.

Stu

Its a bummer, Stu - but you did mention on Saturday that you suspected it. It was a good day Saturday. Good to meet people and put faces to names. Simon did a good job organising it all. I think there were 26 Landrovers in all, including the Freelander that arrived at the end and was actually a blow in.

You might be having a few issues with your P38 but its a nice looking car. I hope you get it sorted pretty quick.

Willem

[81stubee]

Ron, it looks like the hub aligner is stuffed, any advice here on how to fix?

I would highly reccomend anyone contemplating this remove the sump as it make access sooooo much easier.

Anyway have got the motor out now. These cars are unbelievably easy to work on.

Heres what I found:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

I can source a flex plate easy enough, just don't want to have to do it again in 2 months time.

Stu

[p38arover]

A torque converter repair shop should be able to sleeve the hub aligner. I bought one from Davis Performance Landys. I never got the old one sleeved when I had the TC repaired.

I think the part no. is FTC4606. I don't know what a new one would cost these days. Probably not that much as a lot of prices have dropped.

[willem]

Ron, it looks like the hub aligner is stuffed, any advice here on how to fix?

I would highly reccomend anyone contemplating this remove the sump as it make access sooooo much easier.

Anyway have got the motor out now. These cars are unbelievably easy to work on.

Heres what I found:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
http://img117.imageshack.us/img117/7431/img3320.jpg

I can source a flex plate easy enough, just don't want to have to do it again in 2 months time.

Stu

Strewth, Stu, its a wonder the car was still driving!

Willem

[81stubee]

:( It only gets worse!

I picked up a new/2nd Hand spigot Aligner from range-rov today, and it appears that the spigot on the front of the torque converter has been worn too. Grrr.

My auto place reckon that the only way to repair the spigot is to rebuild the torque converter, as it has to be completely stripped, and rebalanced. Any Thoughts???

Rebuilding the TC is between $350-$450, so I might as well rebuild the box at the same time. Even though I don't want too at the mo.

Stu

[andrew e]

I have a p38 box that is still in a car which has just been rebuilt. pm me if you are interested.

Andy