bought a 2a 88

[series3]

I know the :rulez: and I am sorry I don't have any pics , but I am already burning to ask some questions about the Landy I just acquired.

It's 11/71 suffix H (wide lights) SWB with a suffix A 2.25 petrol. Got to drive it about 10-15 kays and she drives quite well, and no rust i have found yet. It will scrub up to be a good old bus hopefully. :D

But here is where it gets interesting:

It is fitted with a front PTO winch (guess which one i bought yet?), and also has beefed-up front and rear axle housings. Upon closer inspection, the driver's side door shows what seems to be a logo that is painted over. I havent tried to have a look underneath the layer of paint, but one can tell it's the same shape as the London underground train station signs.

The previous owner mentioned the PTO's were used in erecting and tensioning power lines, and so I am guessing the logo may be some kind of gov't body or Authority that used these landy's.

I have done a little googling to try and find something, but to no avail. All I know are these mods and that the owner bought the car from Ballarat.

Can anyone shed some light?

[JDNSW]

Only light I can shed is that the reinforced axle housings would have been standard by that date. No idea on the winch or logo though. Could be interesting to remove some of the paint to see who it was.

But it sounds as if you have a good buy. The suffix A engine is presumably a replacement.

John

[series3]

Thanks John, I didn't know the heavier-duty housings are stock.

I will get some pics sent (I left the car in Beresfield to get some work done and came back up to Sydney) and maybe that will shed some light. In the meantime I will be googling away.

[digger]

you may want to mention the colour,
sometimes that will jog someones memory..

welcome to the 88 brigade!

[series3]

Thanks Digger, its deep bronze green, limestone hardtop.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

...
But here is where it gets interesting:

It is fitted with a front PTO winch (guess which one i bought yet?), and also has beefed-up front and rear axle housings. Upon closer inspection, the driver's side door shows what seems to be a logo that is painted over. I havent tried to have a look underneath the layer of paint, but one can tell it's the same shape as the London underground train station signs.

The previous owner mentioned the PTO's were used in erecting and tensioning power lines, and so I am guessing the logo may be some kind of gov't body or Authority that used these landy's. ...
The Sydney UTC (now CityRail) had a logo something like the British Rail Logo.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/1832.jpg
Brit Rail logo.

It was very similar to the current logo but in white, and in similar theme to the Brit rail logo.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/09/1201.jpg

I like the suffix H s2a! :) If it has a Grenville Motors tag send me the chassis number and I'll look it up.

[series3]

Thanks Diana, I was pointing more towards this logo to figure out the shape

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/1831.jpg

But the blue horizontal part is both wider and thicker on the door.

[isuzutoo-eh]

Ballarat had an electric tramway that was owned by the Electric Supply Company of Victoria which was a British company. If you want to dig around, check out various County Councils, Melbourne tramway and railway companies, contractors used in the electrification of the Victorian suburban railway system, and telephone companies.

You don't really want that PTO drive and winch, so when your 88 is in Sydney i'll drop around and remove it for you :D
Welcome to the 2a and shorty club!
-Mark

[series3]

Thanks mark. I'm actually not that keen on keeping it, but will give to my brother for his series 3 shorty. A quick glance makes the removal look to be a pretty big job, can anyone shed some light on this as well?

[series3]

I like the suffix H s2a! :) If it has a Grenville Motors tag send me the chassis number and I'll look it up.

Where could i find this? there is a fairly big heater in front of the gearstick that blots out a fair bit, but will send over the chassis number when I can. I'm bloody itching to get back to the car and get stuck in.:mad:

[series3]

So, here is what I have found about the Electric Supply Company of Victoria (Wikipedia):


The Electric Supply Company of Victoria was a British company with its headquarters in the English city of Liverpool. It was formed in 1903 as a subsidiary of the British Insulated Wire Company. The company operated power stations and electric tramways in the regional cities of Bendigo and Ballarat.[7] The Electric Supply Company of Victoria was acquired by the State Electricity Commission of Victoria in 1934.[3]

So, maybe the car is part of the State Electricity Commission of Victoria, and as they built quite a bit of electrical infrastructure for brown coal and natural gas in regional Vic during the 70's, I Hopefully i can get a period image of the car (or one like it) from this time.

Fingers crossed and I can get a reference pic from the Victorian Museum.

[isuzutoo-eh]

I cannot guarantee it but I believe the following photo is an SECV Land Rover; Starvation Creek is in the Warburton region. No winch fitted. Also has the single combined indicator/parker that my 2a 88 has :)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/1723.jpg
Cheers,
Mark

[series3]

Finally, some pics.

So here she is, minus bonnet.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/558.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/1328.jpg

Because I'm based in Sydney and the car is near Newcastle whilst getting ready for the road, this is the first chance I had to have a good look at it. Luckily, I had plenty of help so was able to give her a bit of work.

First, was a bit of a clean-out. Engine bay went from this
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/1329.jpg

to this:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/876.jpg

Took the winch off, It will need a fair bit of work to get back into shape:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/559.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/560.jpg

Here is the only 'serious' rust i could find, but have a set of better dumb irons to transplant at a later date.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/1330.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/1331.jpg

took the lid off:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/1332.jpg

put a different one on:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/1333.jpg

There is a noticable knock in the engine somewhere, we first thought it was a loose fan/water pump, however we replaced the pump and tightened everything else up and the diesel-esque knock remains. It does sound from the bottom end somewhere, so one (or some) of the bottom-end bearings will be the culprit and will need to be replaced.

After adjusting the tappets and putting on new plugs and leads (points are next), we took it for a quick run around the block and it pulled very well. So far, so good except for the noise. Does anybody here have some experience of this sort of knock?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/587.jpg

And for those interested, here is the outline of where some sort of logo is or was on the door:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/1334.jpg

Any info or pointers people have would be greatly appreciated

[series3]

Got some more pictures:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1400.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/12/1085.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/357.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/1239.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/586.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/588.jpg

Altogether, its straight and honest and original. Only the knock in the engine is a big problem, but I got it for a good price so it is all a 'much of a muchness'. The alternator is also a no-goer and the brakes need some attention, as do the tie rod ends/pittman arm. The sump leaks a bit here and there, but hopefully a fresh gasket and maybe some goo will take care of that. Put a new tappet cover gasket on as well, so hopefully the leaks will slow down. After the tappets were adjusted, we sprayed some carby cleaner around and tightended up the exhaust pipe and manifold and it drove like a different car. except for that damned knock.

The ute cab doesn't sit flush with the hardtop tub, but I think some angled aluminium riveted in place will do the job of sealing the gap and not looking stupid. Does anyone have pics of solutions to this for some ideas?

[JDNSW]

..........
Altogether, its straight and honest and original. Only the knock in the engine is a big problem, but I got it for a good price so it is 'much of a muchness'.

The ute cab doesn't sit flush with the hardtop tub, but I think some angled aluminium riveted in place will do the job of sealing the gap and not looking stupid. Does anyone have pics of solutions to this for some ideas?

The bit you need for the ute cab is P/N 346325. You won't get one new, but should be able to get one from any place that wrecks Series Landrovers, although they are fairly rare (only used on the swb)- swb ute body Landrovers have never been common, but are popular today. The bit is a more or less flat sheet of galvanised steel that fits under the back of the cab and on top of the front edge of the tub and is bolted to both. Try and get a look at a swb utility to see what is involved.

The knock is impossible to diagnose without even hearing it. Possibilities include, as you suggest, a worn or loose bigend (immediate inspection indicated!) but could be a number of other things, including :- Loose flywheel, loose timing chain, loose rocker shaft, loose front pulley, damaged piston loose gudgeon pin, bent connecting rod.

But certainly, I would pull the sump off and have a look at the big end bearings, and perhaps mains as well.

John

[series3]

Thanks John. I am making a pilgrimage out to Land Vehicle Spares this weekend to pick up some things hopefully I can scrounge one up..

[Mick-Kelly]

And if you ever want to get rid of that heater i can fond a home for it. :p:p

[series3]

Thanks Mick, it may come in handy on the cold days yet!

[series3]

Can anyone tell me if there is a harmonic balancer in/on the 2.25 petrol attached to the crank? Somewhere around where you can put your crank starter?

[JDNSW]

Can anyone tell me if there is a harmonic balancer in/on the 2.25 petrol attached to the crank? Somewhere around where you can put your crank starter?

No. Certainly not on the S2a, but I haven't looked at the S3 parts book - but I don't think there is there either.

John

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Can anyone tell me if there is a harmonic balancer in/on the 2.25 petrol attached to the crank? Somewhere around where you can put your crank starter?Not quite sure what you are getting at?

There is a starting handle dog that holds the crankshaft "V" belt pulley/vibration damper on the shaft. If the starting handle dog is not there it is likely that the engine has been fitted with a capstan winch at some stage.

If that is the case you remove the "Special bolt" and drive plate and replace it with a starting handle dog.

Diana

[akelly]

I had a long-running battle with a knock in my S3, in the end it was the gudgeon pins but it sounded all the world like bottom end. I replaced the big-end bearings and a few other things along the way but the knock persisted - so by a process of elimination I decided it was the gudgeons. I learned to live with the knock for a long time until I finally needed to do a rebuild (worn out rings). :angel:

Hope its something simpler for you. Your landy looks great by the way - just like my SIIA! I have been running a full hard-top for a year, but I'm going back to the ute roof, its much quieter and looks cooler too - good choice!

Cheers,

Adam

[series3]

So, i took my car to a guy down the road who has quite a few series 2 rebuilds under his belt, and took the head off....

All four pistons are slapping around, you can move them side to side with your hands; piston 3 being in the worst shape.

It is not overbored already though, and the pistons are original (still have the markings). There are some funny scars on the top of the piston too. The bore was mildly scored, but nothing bad.

So, I began to wonder if the 90,000 miles on the clock is actually all it has done. I ran my chassis, eng and g/box numbers through Calvin, but they did not seem to provide any definitive information; saying my engine is domestic and gearbox was LHD export. The engine number did not match what a 2/2a manual said for the chassis number, or anything else in the manual for that matter.

Here are the numbers:

Chassis: 243 213 66H (11/71)
engine: 241 548 80A
gearbox: 255 059 36F

The workshop manual was printed in the mid 60's, so maybe i am thinking maybe the numbers got changed around for the later 2a's like mine, and therefore it is the orig engine? Throwing it out there for anyone who may be able to enlighten me.

Also, is the kind of wear i have explained expected for a 2.25 petrol with about 90,000 miles ?

So the head and block is off to get some attention, and will get a .40 oversize and fresh pistons etc. Hopefully will be all good and done within a fortnight; can't wait.

[WileE]

Interesting information about your late 2A there.

My late 2A has chassis number 24321168H but is dated 9/72 (stamped on the compliance plate). It also has a 241 series engine number (24151834A) which according to this website Land Rover, Range Rover engine numbers - by Glencoyne 4x4 (Thetford) (http://www.glencoyne.co.uk/engno.htm) means it is fitted with 2.25L Petrol engine with an 8:1 compression ratio as opposed to what appears to be the standard 7:1 compression ratio. This may explain why it is suffix A and not a later suffix that you would expect with a very late suffix chassis number.
I am 99% certain that the engine in my late 2A is the original (the vehicle has only around 50,000 miles on it but like yours the motor needs a rebuild (due to lack of maintenance by the previous owner). So I would say yours is still fitted with the original engine as well, going by the similarities in numbers.
Pictures of mine are located here;
2A 88 GS -REMLR (http://www.remlr.com/sheds/ipshedmore.html)

[JDNSW]

So, i took my car to a guy down the road who has quite a few series 2 rebuilds under his belt, and took the head off....

All four pistons are slapping around, you can move them side to side with your hands; piston 3 being in the worst shape.

It is not overbored already though, and the pistons are original (still have the markings). There are some funny scars on the top of the piston too. The bore was mildly scored, but nothing bad.

So, I began to wonder if the 90,000 miles on the clock is actually all it has done. I ran my chassis, eng and g/box numbers through Calvin, but they did not seem to provide any definitive information; saying my engine is domestic and gearbox was LHD export. The engine number did not match what a 2/2a manual said for the chassis number, or anything else in the manual for that matter.

Here are the numbers:

Chassis: 243 213 66H (11/71)
engine: 241 548 80A
gearbox: 255 059 36F

The workshop manual was printed in the mid 60's, so maybe i am thinking maybe the numbers got changed around for the later 2a's like mine, and therefore it is the orig engine? Throwing it out there for anyone who may be able to enlighten me.

Also, is the kind of wear i have explained expected for a 2.25 petrol with about 90,000 miles ?

So the head and block is off to get some attention, and will get a .40 oversize and fresh pistons etc. Hopefully will be all good and done within a fortnight; can't wait.

That amount of wear is quite possible in 90,000 miles, particularly if it has not been properly serviced, or has done a lot of short trips or a lot of e.g. farm work with not only short trips but a lot of low range work. Engines and oils from the 1950-60-70s were not as durable as engines and oils today, and although this is a very durable engine, when that engine was introduced in 1958, few engines were expected to do 100,000miles before overhaul.

On the other hand, with an odometer that only goes to 99,999 miles, it is quite possible that it has done 190,000 or even 290,000 miles!

John

[series3]

Thankyou for your comments WileE and John, I don't know a whole lot about the history of the car, so unfortunately everything is speculation.

The head gasket was not old, so it has been opened somewhere along the line. Remenants of rusty water all over the front diff and chassis, along with the new head gasket makes me think someone has cooked it somewhere along the line. That may also explain the scarred condition of the piston tops and new radiator it has.

But, at the end of the day it is all speculation; very time consuming but not definitive.

Would the above 2a GS's military designation make a difference to the eng/chassis numbers, compared to a civvie one?

Does anyone else have a late 2a with a possibly original 2.25 starting with 241? Gearbox number wouldn't hurt either, if anyone has them handy.

Cheers,

Sam

[series3]

I just heard from Bob (the guy doing the work) he has pulled down the engine some more ready to go to the machining shop, and he said that the camshaft has been machined at some stage... not sure if it is still stock size or not. How odd.

Are camshafts particularly prone to damage from something? can i get some sort of an idea from the engines history from this information?

[JDNSW]

I just heard from Bob (the guy doing the work) he has pulled down the engine some more ready to go to the machining shop, and he said that the camshaft has been machined at some stage... not sure if it is still stock size or not. How odd.

Are camshafts particularly prone to damage from something? can i get some sort of an idea from the engines history from this information?

Because of the roller cam followers, the camshafts are NOT prone to damage. I wonder if he is seeing the original machining on the cam shaft?

John

[series3]

I am guessing it is not the original markings; only because he has a long history with 2.25's and knows them very well. I can't think of any reason to work on the camshaft, other than making it 'lumpy' for different performance.

On another note, I am on the lookout for P/N 346325, the bit that fits in between the ute cab and tub if anyone has one. Let me know

[foz.in.oz]

346325 TRUCK CAB TO REAR BODY BASE PLATE | shop | www.lrseries.com | L. R. Series (http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/14250/346325-TRUCK-CAB-TO-REAR-BODY-BASE-PLATE.html'search=346325&page=1)

[isuzutoo-eh]

346325 TRUCK CAB TO REAR BODY BASE PLATE | shop | www.lrseries.com | L. R. Series (http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/14250/346325-TRUCK-CAB-TO-REAR-BODY-BASE-PLATE.html'search=346325&page=1)

If anyone in Sydney orders one of these, want to share postage? I could do with one as well.
-Mark

[series3]

Hey Mark I might be lucky enough to snag one locally, but if not I would be keen to order from O/S. Can I smell a group order?

[isuzutoo-eh]

I have a few feelers out for a local one too, but they aren't easy to come by here. If you find a second i'll buy you a case of beer for it :cool:

[series3]

You've got yourself a deal. If you stumble across one as well let me know; happy to cough up

[korg20000bc]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/09/1201.jpg



Years ago I saw this logo graffitied. See how it looks like a L on a 7? it was like this:
L ate
7 days a week

[series3]

a quick update and question... The 2.25 block has gone out .40 tho and been serviced, along with the head; old mate who is doing the rebuild for me had troubles finding a decent set of suitable pistons, but found a set of diseasel pistons at the right size (and price).

So... the rebuild will go ahead with the diesel pistons in a petrol engine. A consultation with a reputable brains trust said that there should not be any troubles with this... can anybody here confirm or refute this? I'm pretty sure it isn't a flat-top piston, will this endager reliability/longevity/performance?

Any thoughts/experiences appreciated. Sam

[foz.in.oz]

1. have you tried sourcing pistons from the uk?

RTC418840 PETROL PISTON ASSY 040 | shop | www.lrseries.com | L. R. Series (http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/10740/RTC418840-PETROL-PISTON-ASSY-040.html?page=2&search=piston&page=2)

2. I would think that putting diesel pistons in would significantly lower your compression making for a weak engine.

[series3]

Thanks Ray.

The diesel pistons will go in, let's hope to god they are okay. Does anyone know any of the dimensional differences between the two?

I know of the grooved "V" on the piston crown, but is the crown taller or lower, are the rings in different positions? Is the diesel piston heavier?

[lro11]

Thanks Ray.

The diesel pistons will go in, let's hope to god they are okay. Does anyone know any of the dimensional differences between the two?

I know of the grooved "V" on the piston crown, but is the crown taller or lower, are the rings in different positions? Is the diesel piston heavier?

The diesel pistons are heavier, they have an extra groove on the skirt of the piston and as others have said would lower your compression. The UK idea is the way to go.
LAND ROVER SERIES PETROL PISTONS x 4 + FULL GASKET KIT - eBay, Land Rover, Car Parts, Vehicle Parts Accessories. (end time 12-Oct-09 03:26:22 AEDST) (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/LAND-ROVER-SERIES-PETROL-PISTONS-x-4-FULL-GASKET-KIT_W0QQitemZ280228530633QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Car sParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item413eec09c9&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14)

[series3]

I hope you guys are wrong.. for my sake because it is now all reassembled and running. But the question is, how well?

The extra groove on the skirt... would that be for an extra piston ring? I am quite sure that diesel rings are being used..

If the groove is there, but is accommodating a piston ring, would it still have a detrimental effect on the CR? Best case scenario in my head is perhaps a bit more available torque, but it would be less willing to rev out. Also, stronger internals.

My old man saw it idling, and things seemed okay. I am trying to hold my breath until i take it for a run around the block and up a hill.. but can't help getting very excited. Providing these pistons turn out okay, It could be pink slipped this week and on the road by the weekend! Fingers crossed!

[foz.in.oz]

The extra groove and ring shouldn't have a detrimental affect on compression, however the v shaped chamber in the piston crown will. The extra ring may increase piston wear though as it will clean some oil off the bore which a diesel would normally partially replace with the lubricity of the fuel.

Compression wise, the difference in power may not be enough to notice though unless you are in an out and out drag with another series 2.25P :D:D.
Fuel consumption may increase.

If it runs, and you are happy with it then fine, it may last for another 200,000kms.

[series3]

I was reunited briefly over the weekend with my car, now christened 'Ivan' and took immense pleasure in putting the first 90 kilometres on the clock post rebuild. Here's a picture of the new engine bay:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/10/300.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/10/301.jpg

Looks great, but this colour will prove difficult to keep clean. A bit more paint around the engine bay and it will come up trumps!

Observations about the petrol engine sporting diesel pistons:

Still in the running-in phase, I didn't really give the motor a thrashing but got it warm and running up to about 50 mph. I felt a little more lethargic and less responsive compared to my brother's 78 2.25 SWB petrol. But, it feels like it has more torque to give and is more resistant to drop revs on inclines.

Gearbox ratios are different, so it's hard to say how much the engine is responsible for this. All in all, I am happy with how it goes and feels. It will be interesting to see how it goes after loosening up a bit more. Not sure yet about fuel consumption.

The car feels overall much more solid and heavier compared to the series 3. You wouldn't think they would be so different to drive.

Got all of the brakes adjusted and bled. The pads look almost new, but the pedal still needs a good pump or two before they respond well enough. Master and slave cylinders may both need attention I think...

This will push my blue-slip attempt back a bit further. I have been told by some that torn seats can cause a blue slip failure, is this true? Also, my indicator stalk must have snapped in half, should this be remedied before i try for the blue slip?

[JDNSW]

That engine is indecently clean!

The seats and indicator arm will need to be repaired. Seats do not have to be neat - blanket stitching the tears should work, but getting them reupholsered should cost arund $100/cushion at your nearest motor trimmer/upholsterer.

The brakes certainly should work better than that. Clamp off the three hoses - if there is any sponginess at all, it is then the master cylinder. Then release hoses one by one and bleed the relevant wheel(s). When bleeding, the adjusters should be backed right off - if there is any doubt that the shoes have not fully retracted, remove the drum and clamp them together. This minimises the remaining volume in the wheel cylinder, to enable effective bleeding. Also, remember that it is possible to bleed any hydraulic circuit at any join, simply by loosening the union - this is most likely to be useful at the master cylinder itself.

John

[series3]

Thanks John,

We adjusted the brakes just off touching the drum before bleeding, so maybe that is where the spongeyness is coming from. Still a good idea to replace the master/slave cylinder rubbers i guess.

So, anybody have a indicator to suit a '71 2a around? PM me if you do.

Don't worry, despite my best efforts I doubt the engine will stay that good in the near future.

[Shonky]

So, anybody have a indicator to suit a '71 2a around? PM me if you do.


I think the late 2As had the Tex-Magnalite type blinker switch? (JD will no doubt correct me if I am wrong)

Have you considered brazing the broken bit back on? Or even making a new stalk?

[series3]

I am afraid the broken part is long gone, but may have to resort to brazing something to extend it a little... Or creating a new one altogether. Damn I wish I was more talented.

Tex Magna is right, here is a (sold) example for reference:

Tex Magna (http://cgi.ebay.com.sg/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180407498673)

Does anybody have any other common failure points for series land rovers when it comes to getting a roadworthy?

[peterg1001]

Brian had a stock of second-hand Magna-Lites out at Land Vehicle Spares. I got one off him a little while back, and coincidentally decided to clean it up yesterday. It looks gorgeous now :)

Peter

[series3]

Can anyone give me a run down of the parts/rubber bits needed to rebuild brake and clutch master cylinders, and where I can get them?

Thankyou!

[Sleepy]

Looking great S3!

Can you just put some cheap seat covers over the ripped seats? - or perhaps borrow some un-torn ones for the blue-slip.;)

Might look a little dodgy, but you could grab some cheap vinyl and a staple gun and have a go at retrimming yourself.

[series3]

Thanks mate! I am going to swap my seats over with my brother's good set for the sake of roadworthy, and fix up mine as I go.

The only other things I can see between Ivan and road legality are the spongey brakes (hopefully remedied this weekend) and a noticably short indicator stalk. All of my lights work, my tyres, brake pads and clutch have plenty of meat on them. There is an acceptable amount of play in the steering wheel, and hardly any in the tie-rod ends. My seatbelts are In good nick, along with the anchor points. I bet I have missed plenty though.

Post-rego, I have plans to make some subtle changes to the car without impinging on the car's originality. Something like a never-ending work in progress.

[series3]

The bad news is that Ivan failed his roadworthy. But, the good news is that the fail was for silly little things.

The horn decided not to work that day, the light over the rear number plate didnt work, one tie rod end needed replacement, and a front bearing needs adjustment. So all in all I'm pretty happy.

As long as something unexpected and catastrophic doesn't happen (touch wood) I can have it on the road some time after next weekend. (my sisters wedding next weekend has put it on the backburner.

[isuzutoo-eh]

bad news on the fail but congrats on getting it so close!

[series3]

Second time in, good news all round! In the eyes of the Roads and Traffic Authority of New South Wales, my car is roadworthy.

The engine is wearing in quite well, noticably looser and more eager in the first ~100km. It did consume a bit of oil, but I imagine this is normal for the 'bedding in' phase. Thought I would mention it just in case.

I have heard mixed reports about when the next oil change should be after day dot. Some say 300 miles, others 500 miles or more. So, throwing it out to the trusty brains trust; what do you reckon?

[JDNSW]

I have heard mixed reports about when the next oil change should be after day dot. Some say 300 miles, others 500 miles or more. So, throwing it out to the trusty brains trust; what do you reckon?

It is probably not critical - the idea is to remove the dirt that got in during the rebuild plus any metal filings from the bedding in. I would change tit about 300miles, and make the next change fairly short as well, say a thousand. Change the filter as well and check the filter housing for anything interesting in it.

John

[series3]

I have a small shopping list as follows, if anyone has any tips or leads please let me know. I will update my list as i go, à la Shonky.

-Truck cab fill panel
-extractors to suit 2.25 petrol
-front springs to suit SWB 2a (currently have HD springs)
-some kind of alternative air filtration to the oil bath to run in non-dusty conditions
-linkages for a fairey O/D
-16 gallon fuel tank (or two)
-rear jacmac bolt-operated difflocker, when the stars align

[peterg1001]

I've got a pair of front springs in average condition, still bolted to a spare chassis. You're welcome to them if you want them.

They're in Warrimoo, Lower Blue Mountains.

Peter

[Shonky]

Extractors and a pod filter... Entering drift comps are we? :D

I still have to follow up on that fill panel for you. :( Sorry!

[series3]

No worries Shonky, no rush mate.

Thanks peterg, I will follow up with you soon when I have provisions of collecting them.

[peterg1001]

My son will be up tomorrow. He lives in Newtown and could cart them down to the city, so if you still want the springs call me on 0439 707 250 before about midday tomorrow (Saturday).

Peter

[isuzutoo-eh]

G'day fellas,
S3, if you aren't in need of the HD springs anymore, i'm interested-i'm not sure how my standard springs will cope with the diesel and winch and bullbar when all is fitted. Alas im not taking the springs off till I have tested them so can't offer a straight swap.
I don't mind doing a run up the mountains either if Peter's son can't bring his spares down for you.
-Mark

[series3]

Sorry Peter this is the first time I've come online for a few days (Damn Bigpond to hell!). No worries though, any excuse to take the old girl for a run these days I don't mind picking them up. I will let you know when I can come and pick them up. Thanks for the kind offer, though!

Hey Mark I won't have much use for the HD springs after I fit the others, so of course. They do have a bit of surface rust but are still in usable condition. Only problem is you will have to wait until I can get the other springs in.

Sam

[series3]

Gday everyone, it's been a long time between posts so thought I would do a little updating.

Post rebuild, the engine is doing very well. It has stopped eating oil and is loosening up nicely. A head retensioning is due, along with a tuneup. I'm looking forward to see how it goes after.

I Went for a drive in mount Sugarloaf with my brother (series 3 shorty) and couldn't notice much difference in performance between mine and his. He pulled away a little on the drive up the mountain, but my engine was still only ~1500km old and i was babying it a little so not too worried.

Bad - The car has an appetite for hydraulic fluid. The clutch slave cylinder is a culprit of leaking, but not too much. I will get a replacement in soon. I noticed my slave cylinder doesn't have an 'operating lever return spring' that the Green Bible refers to. Is this not good? Should I get one?

Also, I'm wondering if my fuel consumption is a bit high. Off a tank, I got about 360km of hilly driving (including going up jamberoo mountain road) with 2 people and camping gear in the back. Once again, I'm not too worried as the engine has a long way to go yet.

I'll keep you filled in with how it goes and drinks later down the track. (and get some pics to keep it interesting).


Cheers,

Sam

[chazza]

I noticed my slave cylinder doesn't have an 'operating lever return spring' that the Green Bible refers to. Is this not good? Should I get one?

Sam

The spring would be to make sure that the thrust bearing is completely disengaged from the pressure plate; not having one might allow the bearing to come into contact when the clutch is not being used, which will result in premature wear of both components,

Cheers Charlie

[series3]

Gday again everyone, I have a problem i would like to start running past you guys.

A few days ago, after a heavy night of rain I jumped in the car to head down the road and the car was idiling horribly, maybe on two cylinders. I (stupidly?) presumed it may be from just a little bit of water, and as i was running late for a funeral i decided to press on.

the car would drive on two cylinders, and every now and then break into 3 and then 4 cylinders with a gearchange or increased revs. I thought "you beauty the problems going away!".

Driving back afterwards, and more problems occur. The carby starts to develop this really strange intermitttent sucking sound, and it struggles to hold idle for more than a minute. It would make this suck noise, and stall. Same thing though with cylinders chiming in and out.

have i got blocked jets? or fuel pickup maybe? There wasn't much left in the tank at this point, and it was still very humid. Forgot to mention, it's a zenith on a 2.25 petrol.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Sam

[numpty]

Also, I'm wondering if my fuel consumption is a bit high. Off a tank, I got about 360km of hilly driving (including going up jamberoo mountain road) with 2 people and camping gear in the back. Once again, I'm not too worried as the engine has a long way to go yet.
Cheers,

Sam

Fuel consumption doesn't sound too bad. My previous 11A would get around 200 miles (320K's) to a 10 gallon tank.

[JDNSW]

Gday again everyone, I have a problem i would like to start running past you guys.

A few days ago, after a heavy night of rain I jumped in the car to head down the road and the car was idiling horribly, maybe on two cylinders. I (stupidly?) presumed it may be from just a little bit of water, and as i was running late for a funeral i decided to press on.

the car would drive on two cylinders, and every now and then break into 3 and then 4 cylinders with a gearchange or increased revs. I thought "you beauty the problems going away!".

Driving back afterwards, and more problems occur. The carby starts to develop this really strange intermitttent sucking sound, and it struggles to hold idle for more than a minute. It would make this suck noise, and stall. Same thing though with cylinders chiming in and out.

have i got blocked jets? or fuel pickup maybe? There wasn't much left in the tank at this point, and it was still very humid. Forgot to mention, it's a zenith on a 2.25 petrol.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Sam

There is a whole range of things that could cause this problem - but if cylinders are not firing, but others are reliably enough to drive it, it is unlikely to be the carburetter, or indeed any fuel supply problem.

Cylinders not firing are likely to be one of the following:-

1. Ignition (likely) - probably spark plug or ignition lead, but could be distributor cap tracking. Generally poor ignition from points, condenser or coil may give enough spark to run the two cylinders with the best plugs for example,

2. Compression (likely) - valves sticking or not seating properly or sticking or broken rings - compression check indicated, even just turning over by crankhandle would show if this is a problem.

3. Inlet manifold to head joint leaking, giving weak mixture to two cylinders. Check by squirting WD40 or similar on the joint, should give temporary fix for a few seconds.


The sucking noise may come from (3) but could also be from (2).

John

[series3]

Thanks for the comments, I will get the crank handle out tomorrrow and have a closer look at the ignition.

I put some more fuel into the car, and the sharp sucking noise has gone away. easy fix! but it still refuses to run on all cylinders except if the revs are very very high.

Thanks again JD and Numpty.

Sam

[isuzutoo-eh]

Mine was doing sort-of similar when a core plug in the head started leaking.
It would lumpily idle and throttle response was delayed. Once the revs mounted then it ran alright. I had to engage low range to move it on my moderately steep driveway when before it'd almost idle in first high up the driveway.

To check, lift the rocker cover and see if there is any coolant on/around the aluminium plugs. But follow John's advice first, he actually knows what he's talking about :D

[series3]

Lord, i hope it's not a core plug. I pulled the top of the dizzy off to have a look and one of the leads fell apart as i pulled it from the distributor. So, I'm off to get some new ones, and do my condensor and points for good measure.

Is the condition of the rotor button and the metal bits in the distributor cap (name?) very important? Mine are showing signs of wear and tear, should i replace them?

here is a picture of the underside of the cap, would this suit the definition 'shagged'?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/02/1176.jpg

Any advice and ideas appreciated.

Cheers,

Sam

[series3]

for a few beers, i got a fellow who knows his stuff to come and have a look. by this time, my messing around has caused the car to not start at all.

He solved that quickly by fixing the points gap (that i ruined) and the other problem i highlighted before has seemingly dissolved. The two times this has happened, has been after heavy rain.

So.. maybe because my bonnet has the tyre holder, the holes drilled leak water into somewhere that causes a temporary running problem...

so after a few days of joyous, problem free jaunting, my clutch slave cylinder has finally thrown in the towel. On inspection, the inner seal looked okay, but the bore was corroded and marked. So with a new one on the way, things should be fine and dandy again.

I remember someone mentioning on another thread (which i cannot find) what the maximum fuel capacity would be on a short wheel base.. has anyone got more than twin 16 gallon under-seat tanks fitted to a shorty?

[series3]

And to keep the masses happy, here are some pictures of a camping trip some time ago down the south coast. Mystery Bay is a fantastic spot for a few days; beat the pants off any other area we visited.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/1372.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/03/307.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/713.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/03/308.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/03/309.jpg

[series3]

I have a quick question for those with a mechanical sense.

I have fitted a new clutch slave cylinder to my landy today, but it hasn't solved any problems (ie no clutch actuation or pedal resistance). With the flexible hose in between the slave and master disconnected from the slave, constant pumping of the pedal results in only a few drips of fluid being expelled. Would I be correct in assuming my master cylinder is faulty?

The reservoir There is no apparent leaks around the M.C or pedal, but where else could the problem be?

Any help appreciated,

Sam

[isuzutoo-eh]

Theres no blockage in the pipe between reservoir and cyinder is there? When you changed the cylinder did it make a mess?

[Shonky]

As Mark said. Disconnect both ends of the pipe and see if it is blocked (can air pass through it?)

If not, then props your master.


Edit: Oops - just re-read your post and realised you had no pedal pressure, not just a lack of actuation. Line blockage would still give back pressure.

[akelly]

Hi Sam,

its best not to pump the pedal with anything disconnected, you'll introduce a lot of air to the system that can take a while to remove. It does sound like you have a master cylinder issue - to check you could reconnect everything, bleed the air from the system (at the slave using the bleed nipple) then if you get no pressure in the pedal its certainly the master, unless there is a hole in the pipes or hose - you'll see that when you pump because fluid will spray out.

Hope that helps. BTW - your 88 looks great! I'm hoping to get mine back into original fettle over this winter, they look much better without all the bling I think (bullbars, big wheels, etc...).

Cheers,

Adam

[series3]

Thanks everyone, I am off to inspect the hoses and pull the M.C off for a bit of a look.

The reason I was pumping from the pipe because, with the slave cylinder all connected up and nipple open, nothing was coming out. I have the s.c compressed, so I think there is not enough pressure in the system to open it up.

Thanks Adam, I'm also keen on the original look. I may be putting on a couple of things to the exterior soon but want to stick to originality as much as possible. Tell us a bit about your car.. any piccies?

[akelly]

Heres a few pics of mine:

The day I bought it
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1715.jpg

With the "roll bar" gone
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1716.jpg (http://www.aulro.com/app/showphoto.php/photo/17164)

With a 3/4 tilt (and a dodgy coil lead!)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1717.jpg

As a convertible
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1718.jpg

How it looks now
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1719.jpg

I've given all the combo's a go except rag-top (thats next). I like the ute with 3/4 tilt the best so far, much less noisy than the full length roof and you dont see many around. The pic above was before I sorted out the roof bows properly, so the tilt is quite saggy, but I have all the right bits now and it fits much better.

Its got a 186 (engineered for NSW and looks like it came from the factory that way) and a toro overdrive, military springs and I have a shin-burner heater to go in (thats been waiting to happen for 2 years!). I have gradually collected an original front bumper, floor panels (they are checker plate now), 5 original rims (blasted, primed and ready for paint) and a few other original bits. The plan is to put it back to original (I'll keep the checker plate guard tops and rear guard plates), add a winch (in the shed) and eventually put a 2.25D in. I still haven't settled on the roof, I'll see how the soft-top goes and then make a decision.

This is the car that my son/daughter will get when they turn 18 (he/she is due to be born in July) so there's plenty of time to get it right!

Cheers,

Adam

[series3]

Nice one Adam, looks good. I have a ute cab as well that needs a respray to suit, but a full rag top is also good. a well sorted one can be more watertight than your average roof. Here is a pic of my brothers, something akin to what you're aiming for. He painted the wheels black a little while back, but it's otherwise all orig.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/916.jpg

[series3]

No updates in a while, but all is running well. I have had some electrics go awry on me, which turned out to be worn/ungreased points that made the points gap come and go.

No more oil is being burned, and the engine is feeling a little bit better with every few hundred km's on the clock.

Current short term plans are:

Sorting out the speedometer
replace points/condenser/dist cap then get timing spot-on with a gun
getting the higgledy-piggledy seats redone (maybe in ripstop canvas)
start to examine the best exhaust options for the 2.25 after some extractors to help it breath a little easier
hit it with it's 3rd can of lanolin

Here are some more belated camping trips from a warmer time last year... actually the first trip we went on. Someone left a day earlier so we drove back fully loaded with 3 people and camping gear in the back, still pumped along nicely along the road. The suspension is much more agreeable with a few kg's on board!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/10/311.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1313.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/09/960.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1314.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1315.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1316.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1317.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1318.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1319.jpg

[series3]

Bugger it, I only just got my hands on all of these photos so will put up some more. It's only bandwidth, right?

These ones are of a daytrip up Sugarloaf Range Road that heads north parrallel to the Pacific highway from the outskirts of Newcastle, and you can keep going up to about Morisset (as far as I know) along a few different tracks. Sugarloaf Range Road in itself seemed to be fairly tame but we did it after a big days of big rain in December last year, so was pretty slippery in parts. There are more challenging parts to be had around the area though (turnoffs and side trails etc).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/187.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/188.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/10/417.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1279.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1280.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1281.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1282.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1283.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1284.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1285.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/189.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/190.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1286.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/191.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1287.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1288.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1289.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1290.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1291.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1292.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1293.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/1154.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1294.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1295.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/193.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1296.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1297.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1298.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1299.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1300.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1301.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1302.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1303.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1304.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1305.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1306.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/192.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1307.jpg

[Landy Smurf]

noice photos

[COFFEY76]

Top stuff mate!

[series3]

My original exhaust must have heard me talking about an upgrade somewhere down the track last week, as it threw in the towel via a few holes and plenty of rust. It completely broke in half just before the muffler (on that bend over the axle) so wheels are in motion to fit something new.

A massive thanks to Waxenwane for picking up and sending these:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1404.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1405.jpg

They look to be in good working condition. The welds have a couple of pinholes, but hopefully some exhaust cement stuff will take care of that. The flanges look good. A bit of a cleanup, some black paint and they should be ready to go on.

After digesting the helpful information gleaned from http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/109389-modifying-series-exhaust-worthwhile.html , i will be attaching a straight-as-possible 2.25 inch system to this, possibly dumping out the LHS with a fairly short straight-through muffler somewhere along the line.

Also, some new points, condensor, dist cap and rotor button will soon find their way onto the car, accompanied by a tuneup/timing check.

[Dmmos]

Thanks for the pics!

[JDNSW]

My original exhaust must have heard me talking about an upgrade somewhere down the track last week, as it threw in the towel via a few holes and plenty of rust. It completely broke in half just before the muffler (on that bend over the axle) so wheels are in motion to fit something new.

A massive thanks to Waxenwane for picking up and sending these:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1404.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1405.jpg

They look to be in good working condition. The welds have a couple of pinholes, but hopefully some exhaust cement stuff will take care of that. The flanges look good. A bit of a cleanup, some black paint and they should be ready to go on.

After digesting the helpful information gleaned from http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/109389-modifying-series-exhaust-worthwhile.html , i will be attaching a straight-as-possible 2.25 inch system to this, possibly dumping out the LHS with a fairly short straight-through muffler somewhere along the line.

Also, some new points, condensor, dist cap and rotor button will soon find their way onto the car, accompanied by a tuneup/timing check.

You need to check with the RTA whether a LH exhaust will get you into trouble! And also whether you need to take it to the back of the vehicle. You can phone them anonymously and ask to speak to a technical person.

John

[d@rk51d3]

Shouldn't be a problem with lh exit, but will have to be a set distance back from the door.

[B.S.F.]

Left hand exhaust is not a good idea.I once parked at at the curb and started the engine just as a women walked past, pushing a pram. Straight into the baby's face from about a foot away!
Cheers W.

[series3]

You need to check with the RTA whether a LH exhaust will get you into trouble! And also whether you need to take it to the back of the vehicle. You can phone them anonymously and ask to speak to a technical person.

John

I just gave them a quick call then. Exhaust Modification ADR's came in for any car that runs on unleaded during 1986, so doesn't apply in this car.

What does apply is staying below the decibel limit, and the exhaust must exit "rearward of any passenger door and/or window". This isn't terribly restrictive for a SWB Hardtop though. If it was registered to carry passengers in the back, I suppose it would have to exit from the rear-end.

[COFFEY76]

g'day mate

while getting my LWB 2A hard top engineered i was under the impression that if it wasnt licenced to carry anyone in the back it would be alright.

HOWEVER

the rear door is classified as the last semi perminant 'seal' and as such the exhaust must exit out the back. But im in Vic so it might be different for you.

If it was a sealed ute cab there is no issue with a muffler ending on LHS of the car.

Also the decibels much be below 96Db and just a single muffler (not striaght through) was enough for my 202. hope that helps

[series3]

I have got the car back after a day at the exhaust shop. All I told the guy was "headers are in the back, I need a new 2.25 inch system please". No worriers.

They did a very, very thorough job.

Here are the extractors fitted:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1430.jpg

Where they dump:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1431.jpg

It then runs up above the protection of the chassis rails, through a resonator (wow) then turns into a new muffler in the traditional position.

The exhaust dumps out the tail end:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1435.jpg

It is SUPER quiet. I was in shock going from the exhaust dumping directly below the passenger seat to this modern system. The car performs much better throughout the rev range, especially uphill with less right-foot impetus. I'll find out about fuel consumption after a full tank.

Best of all, no exhaust fumes! But it has lost it's cackle under compression braking which I already miss.

Sam

[COFFEY76]

That looks great! how much did it set you back?

New exhaust made a difference with me as well. Although i miss the old 'rat rod' red motor sound.

[series3]

That looks great! how much did it set you back?


Thanks mate. Can people hazard a guess as to how much they think it would cost? I'm not sure if the price was reasonable or not.

I was charged to fit headers (they supplied hi-temp paint and gasket), new resonator and Walker Muffler, used a fair few bends to follow a protected line along the line of the original exhaust, and used new brackets. The exhaust itself is quite a thick gauge.

What do people think something like that would cost on a SWB 2.25?

[isuzutoo-eh]

G'day mate,
Nice shiny bits! So now you have the torque monster engine with superpower exhaust, try not to drag race the ricers now...

[series3]

...not to mention the best engine/gearbox combo LR have ever done..

[COFFEY76]

The exhaust i got was just a 2 1/2" with a single muffler on my 109 it set me back $230. Im happy with it. Sounds like a sick kingswood though...

[Dmmos]

I'm surely just embarrassing myself, but how about $250-$350? Don't use me as a metric to judge what you paid though :) Looks good!

[series3]

Cheers guys. I was thinking around the 300 mark, but it was actually $570..

But i couldn't fault it in any way either. Some people have said it's reasonable for a good job

[peterg1001]

I paid $600 for a full stainless system, from the manifold to the back, including the flanges and muffler.

Mick the Muffler had to get the flanges fabricated, so I think I've got a bargain.

I thought I had some pictures, but I haven't, so I'll take some tomorrow.

Peter

[series3]

There has been a long time between updates, so I thought I would throw something up to keep the thread rolling. But, no news is also good news, right?

Apart from a master cylinder that started bypassing while I was camping up the north coast, the landy has provided plain sailing.

I replaced the reservoir with two separate plastic ones, a kit available from lrseries.com: 504105 RESERVOIR TANK KIT | shop | www.lrseries.com | L. R. Series (http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/970/504105-RESERVOIR-TANK-KIT.html'search=reservoir&page=1)

The bracket required filing to fit the cylinder housing, which was very annoying. So I have an original metal reservoir and housing up for grabs if anyone wants it. PM me.

Bigger news is I am fitting a Toro Overdrive soon. Marshall at Zenith Engineering was able to machine a new clutch sleeve, and I should be getting it in a couple of days. Here is a link to the thread:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/125982-toro-overdrive-refurbishment.html

Using a dodgy jerry can for fuel gave me reason to open up and clean the carburettor. It all looks clean and new in there, making me very happy.

Also, my starter motor has been on the blink for sometime. I pulled it out today, and I am attempting to rebuild it.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/135964-petrol-series-starter-motor-refurbishment.html

Cheers,

Sam

[series3]

Bigger news is I am fitting a Toro Overdrive soon.

I make myself laugh sometimes. OD is still sitting patiently as I angrily scream around at 95km/h in 4th... Oh well. All in good time.

The landy has changed a bit in the last couple of months. After cruising about without the roof for a few weeks (which, aside from feeling a little silly, is bloody awesome) I decided to cut the middle ground and replace the full hardtop with a ute cab. So, I whipped out the one that had been festooning on the tinny in the shed for about two years and throw it on. It was the wrong colour, so a quick chat with a very helpful young fellow at the Raymond Terrace paint shop saw me walk out with a pressure pack of grey-tinged limestone to paint the cab. Wait for a nice sunny afternoon, spend about two hours masking, a few seconds painting and it was done.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/702.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/1240.jpg

One $30 tin was just enough to do the ute cab. Just.

The Sime Frontiers that were on the car when I got it were also just hanging in there. abused valiantly for god knows how long, full of cracks, bubbles and not much tread, they finally hung up the hat with a big whoosh when a big stake disembowelled one of them.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/703.jpg
Certainly the funnest tyre change I have done. Cheers Tangus!

After much, much, much deliberation on what choice of tyre and researching ad nauseum, I finally decided on Maxxis Bighorn 762's in 235 85 16. There was a few contenders, but the combination of good reports and good price saw the Maxxis take the crown. I fitted these to Disco 1 steel rims I painted in matte black.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1297.jpg

There isn't a whole heap of difference in height between the new 235's and the old 7.50 16's, so my worries of lost up-travel are mostly assuaged. And rubbing on full lock seems okay too, maybe thanks to the different offset perhaps. The tyres seem to be really good. I am far from being thoroughly experienced offroad, but I think they perform pretty well. I do like that they bag out pretty nicely with 12-15psi in them. On road, for what it's worth, is really good too.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/1241.jpg

Happy Seriesing!

Sam