OH NO, not the chainsaw!!! - now with PICS!

[isuzurover]

I think my beloved husky 357XP has seized.... Just when I need to go and cut another load of wood!!!

Will pull it down tonight to check. It had a flat spot just past idle since the last woodcutting trip, but I thought it was just the carby needing a clean/tune up. I have always made sure it has had good oil at the right mix in the fuel...

If I have to replace the piston and barrel, does anyone have any suggestions for worthwhile upgrades??? Or sources for parts?

Also - anyone have a manual???

EDIT - pics on Page 2

[hiline]

oh buggar :o


not sure if this will help you out

User manual HUSKY - User guide HUSKY - operating instructions - Diplodocs (http://safemanuals.com/brand-user-guide-instructions-owner-manual/HUSKY)

[rovercare]

How the **** did that happen, its a new saw with no work?:eek:

[isuzurover]

How the **** did that happen, its a new saw with no work?:eek:

NFI, but it wasn't a new saw. I bought it 2nd hand off Ebay. Has only cut about 4 tonne of wood while I have had it though.

[rovercare]

NFI, but it wasn't a new saw. I bought it 2nd hand off Ebay. Has only cut about 4 tonne of wood while I have had it though.

Ahh, that's a shame, second hand goods, expecially chainsaws can be ricky business

[crump]

dunno, but make sure that when you use it you wear all the right safety gear etc.. blah blah blah or this thread will become several thousand posts long.:twisted::D:D

[rovercare]

dunno, but make sure that when you use it you wear all the right safety gear etc.. blah blah blah or this thread will become several thousand posts long.:twisted::D:D

Never lend you wife or your chainsaw, cause they both come back _______:angel:

[abaddonxi]

Rebuild kits on ebay.

[rovercare]

dunno, but make sure that when you use it you wear all the right safety gear etc.. blah blah blah or this thread will become several thousand posts long.:twisted::D:D

Oh yea, I think you may of forgotten someones no longer being with us, so I;m thinking it's gonne be quite short, matter of fact, I've been cutting up a stupid Gum that fell through my bit over a month old front fence and crushed it last night, in my.......normal clothes, drinking Bourbon:D

[Rangier Rover]

The last Husky we had here (Same as yours) got used as a wheel chock:eek: Never got to wear it out or blow it up. Was a nice machine to use when it worked.

I may still have the manual here for it amongst many other deceased machine manuals:eek:

[hiline]

dunno, but make sure that when you use it you wear all the right safety gear etc.. blah blah blah or this thread will become several thousand posts long.:twisted::D:D

not anymore ;)

that bloke has left the building :D

[isuzurover]

Bore, piston and ring are well and truly cactus...

Pics uploading now...

[rovercare]

Bore, piston and ring are well and truly cactus...

Pics uploading now...

Ouch:(

[isuzurover]

Piston
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/1715.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/1788.jpg

Bore
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/1789.jpg

Can anyone ID the year of manufacture from this???
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/1790.jpg

[B92 8NW]

Bore, piston and ring are well and truly cactus...

Pics uploading now...

Know the feeling all too well.


Though I'd be jumping for joy if it was the chainsaw.

[Rangier Rover]

That has been a bit hot or dry:eek: Not wear and tear at all there. I'll have a look tomorrow for my dead (Crushed) Husky. I'm fairly sure the bore is OK if condensation here hasn't stuffed it yet:(. You may be in luck if its OK.

[V8Ian]

:Rolling::Rolling::Rolling:Just need to add "BUT WAIT. THERE'S MORE" to the title.:p:p
Sorry about the saw, I had an excellent run from Huskies used as a saw and a borer, it was 25+ years ago though.:o

[LOVEMYRANGIE]

You might be able to find the odd Yamaha RZ500 engine you could stick in it, or maybe that 4BD1 just sittin down the back of your shed waiting for a project. With either of these, you could cut 4 tonne in one go!! :cool::D

[andrew e]

Your lucky its only the bore and piston. my chainsaw had a bent conrod. :D






















http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=17478&stc=1&d=1249307000

[DeeJay]

She's run dry, did you shake the can? Also helps to shake the saw if sitting 4 a while.

Ben,
Send me your email address I have the parts book as PDF & cant cut & paste.
David

[isuzurover]

She's run dry, did you shake the can? Also helps to shake the saw if sitting 4 a while.

Ben,
Send me your email address I have the parts book as PDF & cant cut & paste.
David

Always shook the can. Been trained for years to do that. However I did run old fuel a couple of times...

pm sent.

[Chops]

If you decide to get yourself a pressie,,,get a Jonsered,,,,good gear,,,I've cut hundreds of tons with mine,,its never missed a beat, as light as, and starts second pull every time,,,:D

Safety gear,,,whats that,,,ohhh,,my glasses,,,(cant see without em anyway,,)

[isuzurover]

Genuine piston/barrel kit is $550!!!

Makes the aftermarket ebay jobs look attractive!

Any idea if I can upgrade to a larger bore while I am at it???

[Captain_Rightfoot]

Piston
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/1715.jpg


I tawt I saw a sore saw. :eek: :eek: :D

I diid... I did saw a sore saw! :D

[DeeJay]

If you decide to get yourself a pressie,,,get a Jonsered,,,,good gear,,,I've cut hundreds of tons with mine,,its never missed a beat, as light as, and starts second pull every time,,,:D

Safety gear,,,whats that,,,ohhh,,my glasses,,,(cant see without em anyway,,)

Are'nt the JReds made under licence to Husky?? IE same horse different paddock? They have different covers, air filters etc but parts are interchanceable. Some barrels are different too.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/1704.jpg https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[Blknight.aus]

phafh..


lap the piston and the bore with some wet and dry put the piston in 180 out on the gudgen spin the ring 90 degrees and I bet it starts and goes again.

[LandyAndy]

BUGGA Ben.
Sounded sweet last time you were down cutting wood.
I wonder if it was a touch too lean on the tune???
Hopefully you can get a change over barrel etc with a few more CCs:twisted::twisted::twisted:

Andrew

[Newbs-IIA]

phafh..


lap the piston and the bore with some wet and dry put the piston in 180 out on the gudgen spin the ring 90 degrees and I bet it starts and goes again.
I like the way you think :D Why hasn't an oval shapped piston been used before??? Just shove the rings in the bench vice to elongate them a bit too ;)

You can buy a cylinder boring/honing tool thingo from Supercheap Auto for about $40 I think

[andrew e]

:D Why hasn't an oval shapped piston been used before???

honda designed and built an oval piston engine years ago, but it not allowed in racing, so they didnt develop it much further.

[Chops]

Are'nt the JReds made under licence to Husky?? IE same horse different paddock? They have different covers, air filters etc but parts are interchanceable. Some barrels are different too.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/1704.jpg http://tbn0.google.com/images?q=tbn:vizE92B06gTxqM:http://www.tradebit.com/usr/acprc/pub/9002/hus340.jpg

Its not what I was told, but hey,,a lot of equipment comes out of the one place with different names,,so it could have been a tall story I was given,,:eek: Theres a lot of saws come out of the Electrolux complex too,,,so if it doesnt cut well, maybe it sucks,,,:Rolling::Rolling::Rolling:,,(sorry),,,

[rick130]

That sucks Ben.

So which side of the piston is the scoring ?
Only exhaust, or inlet too ?
Exhaust only = lean seizure.

Most seizures are usually caused through straight petrol or not mixed properly which I doubt you'd do.
Lean seizures can be common too, either too lean on the HS, or crap in the carby, pulse line failing, diaphragm failing, etc.

Second is an air leak, can be crank seals, torn carby boot, loose barrel. (mate had his Dolmar cylinder come loose and it screamed it's %^$$ off, but he was able to stall it and it came out OK, just needed a new base gasket)

I'd resist the ebay kits. They are out of China and don't compare to your Mahle cylinder and piston.
You can get kits out of the US landed much cheaper than OE from here.
I'm expecting a new kit any day now, under A$300 landed for a cylinder kit and new air cleaner to take my saw out to 79cc.

I'll dig something up and get back to you. Probably ring.

I'll give Serg a call if he hasn't seen this, he knows where to get Husky bits in the US.

[rick130]

If you decide to get yourself a pressie,,,get a Jonsered,,,,good gear,,,I've cut hundreds of tons with mine,,its never missed a beat, as light as, and starts second pull every time,,,:D

Safety gear,,,whats that,,,ohhh,,my glasses,,,(cant see without em anyway,,)

JReds ARE Huskies, just a pretty red. Have been for years as Husqvarna own Jonsered.
There are some small differences in some models, but nothing substantial.

BTW, Electrolux spun off the Husky group a couple of years ago, and husky have acquired a few more chainsaw manufacturers since.
Off the top of my head they own/build
Husqvarna
Jonsered
Poulan
McCulloch (worldwide now, was only Europe for a while)
Zenoah/Komatsu

and a stack more

[rick130]

You might be able to find the odd Yamaha RZ500 engine you could stick in it,
<snip> :cool::D


There's more than one Yamy 500 bike saw going around the chainsaw races ;)

[rick130]

Oh, and if there is no scoring in the Nikasil, only aluminium pickup, you can use neat HCl carefully and clean the bore up, so then you only need to buy a piston to suit.

Probably still cheaper to get just a piston from the US too, I know my Dolmar one is $195 + here, and the blokes at the dealer reckoned that was cheap compared to husky (they are a major husky dealer too)

[rick130]

BTW, here's Baileys with OE cylinder kits and pistons and Meteor (Italian pistons).
https://www.baileysonline.com/search.asp?SKW=husky%20357%20cyl&catID=1841

Postage from the US should be around US$38 Priority International parcel (6-10 days)
If you go with Baileys just make sure you have a firm post/handling charge, they are pretty good but can up that part occasionally.

[rick130]

phafh..


lap the piston and the bore with some wet and dry put the piston in 180 out on the gudgen spin the ring 90 degrees and I bet it starts and goes again.


Betcha it doesn't :p

Ring'll either snag in a port, remember they are pegged to stop them moving and snagging, and a number of pistons the skirts are different exhaust to inlet, and the inlet skirt side of the piston controls the inlet timing and duration.
Late model Dolmars even have assymetric transfer ports in the piston to feed the transfers.

[isuzurover]

That sucks Ben.

So which side of the piston is the scoring ?
Only exhaust, or inlet too ?
Exhaust only = lean seizure.

Most seizures are usually caused through straight petrol or not mixed properly which I doubt you'd do.
Lean seizures can be common too, either too lean on the HS, or crap in the carby, pulse line failing, diaphragm failing, etc.

Second is an air leak, can be crank seals, torn carby boot, loose barrel. (mate had his Dolmar cylinder come loose and it screamed it's %^$$ off, but he was able to stall it and it came out OK, just needed a new base gasket)

I'd resist the ebay kits. They are out of China and don't compare to your Mahle cylinder and piston.
You can get kits out of the US landed much cheaper than OE from here.
I'm expecting a new kit any day now, under A$300 landed for a cylinder kit and new air cleaner to take my saw out to 79cc.

I'll dig something up and get back to you. Probably ring.

I'll give Serg a call if he hasn't seen this, he knows where to get Husky bits in the US.

Thanks Rick! I was hoping you or Serg would reply. Inlet side is like new. I suspect the Nikasil is damaged, but it is hard to tell - will try cleaning it up.

A few bolts came loose on the body a while back, which meant that chain oil was leaking from the case. Could this have caused an air leak?

[rick130]

Thanks Rick! I was hoping you or Serg would reply. Inlet side is like new. I suspect the Nikasil is damaged, but it is hard to tell - will try cleaning it up.

A few bolts came loose on the body a while back, which meant that chain oil was leaking from the case. Could this have caused an air leak?

Possibly, the crankcases are split vertically, the oil tank is part of the crankcase casting.
As I posted above, crank seals are often culprits too, can just be a dodgy seal or a crank bearing letting go.

[isuzurover]

Possibly, the crankcases are split vertically, the oil tank is part of the crankcase casting.
As I posted above, crank seals are often culprits too, can just be a dodgy seal or a crank bearing letting go.

Thanks. Bottom end looks like new but I haven't checked for play.

The plastic clamp that connects the inlet to the barrel seemed old and brittle, and broke when I removed it. So possibly could have been sucking air...

Are there any upgrades I can do while I am at it - or is Serg the person to ask. I registered on racesaws, but it seems they don't accept gmail accounts.

[rick130]

Thanks. Bottom end looks like new but I haven't checked for play.

The plastic clamp that connects the inlet to the barrel seemed old and brittle, and broke when I removed it. So possibly could have been sucking air...

Are there any upgrades I can do while I am at it - or is Serg the person to ask. I registered on racesaws, but it seems they don't accept gmail accounts.

That'd be it.
IIRC some Huskies and Dolmars had the carb boot clamp upgraded with a metal one to stop that happening.

I don't know if there are any big bore kits available, but Serg probably would.

Short of diving into it with the die grinder, check the squish when re-assembling. I'm guessing that size saw 0.020" would be fine from what i've read and been told. Often they are well above this. if it is, tightening the squish by removing the base gasket will give a useful increase in pop.
Easy enough to check, just trial assemble with the base gasket and use some soft solder through the spark plug hole and wind over past TDC, remove solder and measure.
Yes, you are lowering the exhaust by doing this, but mostly it doesn't alter the timing by much and can give a useful increase in torque at the expense of peak revs, but the gains with tightening the squish and making it work as designed offsets any possible losses there.

Gut the muffler and increase the outlet to between 85 and 100% of the exh port face area at the cylinder wall.
Any bigger hole and all you do is make it painfully loud and use more fuel. It really is a case of diminshing returns on outlet size and stock porting with a box muffler.

[rick130]

Here's a 357 minor build up thread.
Racesaws (http://racesaws.com/showthread.php't=1296&highlight=357XP)

Interesting comments on squish here and losing speed on 3 series Huskies unless the ports are raised back to stock height.

Racesaws (http://racesaws.com/showthread.php't=1007&highlight=357XP)

[isuzurover]

Thanks, but I can't access any of that unless I login... Might have to signup using work email...

[rick130]

357XP lower transfer blending

Transfers

Intake

Exhaust

port map

[rick130]

piston

[isuzurover]

Thanks! How do you die grind inside the bore? 90 degree die grinder attachment???

[rick130]

Or use a long burr through the port and a steady hand..... :eek:
My old kart engine builder used to use a pencil grinder and long burr's.

The boys doing it all the time use a Foredom grinder with a 45 or 90* head, IIRC it's designed for jewellery and lapidary work, as well as using small files, etc.

Also remember to chamfer/blend/radius very lightly the transition for the cylinder to the port otherwise you'll snag the ring and it'll stop the Nikasil lifting, (the Nikasil generally flows around into the port a little from the fatory so it doesn't lift) and the floor and roof of the exhaust and inlet ports need radiusing to smoothly push/keep the ring in the land

[paulthepilot_5]

I think my beloved husky 357XP has seized.... Just when I need to go and cut another load of wood!!!

Will pull it down tonight to check. It had a flat spot just past idle since the last woodcutting trip, but I thought it was just the carby needing a clean/tune up. I have always made sure it has had good oil at the right mix in the fuel...

If I have to replace the piston and barrel, does anyone have any suggestions for worthwhile upgrades??? Or sources for parts?

Also - anyone have a manual???

EDIT - pics on Page 2

isuzurover,

Have a look at this forum: OutdoorKing.com.au Forum - Forums powered by UBB.threads™ (http://www.outdoorking.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm)

Lots of useful info on there. The moderator of the forum (Bruce) also runs the online mower parts store, and if you send him an email he might be able to help with parts. I have bought plenty of parts from him with no problems.

Cheers

Paul

[slug_burner]

Ben,

I got a saw sent over from the states for less than I could get here including the postage. I got it from this bloke who appears to be a small concern, paid via paypal, the saw was here in less than a week. He also does parts Simonian's Saw Service (http://www.jonsered.ws/indexA.htm)

[isuzurover]

Just checked big end bearing. No noticeable up-down movement but I can rock the piston 1.5mm (total) side-side (measured at piston crown) - is that OK???

[Jojo]

Mate,
just read your post. I live just a few minutes down the road from the place where these devices are (supposedly) made, so if you need some spares I'll have a look for these. Drop me a line in case you need assistance.
Cheers
Johannes

[spudboy]

It's a pity you're not from Melbourne, as you might be able to get your service station to fix it for you......:)

Car engine seizures blamed on dodgy fuel | The Australian (http://www.theaustralian.news.com.au/story/0,25197,25892573-12377,00.html)

[rick130]

Just checked big end bearing. No noticeable up-down movement but I can rock the piston 1.5mm (total) side-side (measured at piston crown) - is that OK???

Honestly don't know Ben but I'd guess that'd be OK as IIRC they use roller bearings in the bottom end. The little end is a needle roller.

My bits cleared customs today, so i'll be re-building a saw in the next week or so. Grunt here we come :cool: