Replacement Disco window regulator problem

[steveG]

Received a new drivers window regulator for my D1 today. Its thicker and stiffer than the original one, and has square sliders rather than the rollers on the original.
Its a Bearmach item with P/N CUH102300 and STC2882 on the label.
A couple of piccys:
Replacement regulator top, original below.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/1779.jpg

Roller in original item:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/1780.jpg

Slider in replacement regulator:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/1781.jpg

New track(left) is much wider than original:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/1782.jpg

Overall the new unit is about 6mm thicker than original.
Unfortunately this increased thickness means that it binds on itself as the cross arms pass each other when the window comes down. Its only just binding, in that if I pull on the inner door handle firmly while the window is coming down it doesn't bind and the window comes down smoothly. Its the back of the pin of one of the rollers hitting on the other cross arm.

The only decent way I can see of fixing the problem is to remove the channel from the bottom of the window glass (the one that just grips onto the glass with a thin piece of rubber), cut off its attachment lugs and re-weld them outboard a few mm to give some clearance.

Anyone else come across this problem?
Any hints on how to remove the channel from the bottom of the glass?

Steve

[steveG]

I called Alan at British4WD where I bought the regulator from. He sells lots of them and hadn't heard of the problem before.
He grabbed another one off the shelf and could see immediately where it would catch. His suggestion was just to bend the edge of the arm slightly so that the back of the rivet from the passing arm would just ride over it instead of catching.

I did that tonight and it works perfectly.

Steve

[**Discovery300Tdi**]

I called Alan at British4WD where I bought the regulator from. He sells lots of them and hadn't heard of the problem before.
He grabbed another one off the shelf and could see immediately where it would catch. His suggestion was just to bend the edge of the arm slightly so that the back of the rivet from the passing arm would just ride over it instead of catching.

I did that tonight and it works perfectly.

Steve

glad to hear it worked out for ya mate, good stuff.

[dullbird]

can I ask how much I need a passenger one......and if not expensive may get a drivers one as that squeaks and carries on and no doubt will brake in the most inconvenient moment

[steveG]

can I ask how much I need a passenger one......and if not expensive may get a drivers one as that squeaks and carries on and no doubt will brake in the most inconvenient moment

Bit over $100 - dont remember exactly as I bought other stuff too.
Check it out on british4wd.com

Steve

[LandyAndy]

My drivers window has ust started binding.It was new 6 months ago:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:
Will try your fix.
Andrew

[V8Landy]

Are you sure that the originals were not square when they were new.:p:p:p

[DiscoCam]

My front right window (D2) started making a horrible sound recently. Didn't have the proper torx (?) to take the motor off the regulator. Do the cogs on the motor or the motor itself wear out? Or is it most likely a binding issue?

[Yorkie]

can I ask how much I need a passenger one......and if not expensive may get a drivers one as that squeaks and carries on and no doubt will brake in the most inconvenient moment

if same for the d2 i just got one today from karcraft $66 plus $5 for a pack of trim clips, they have a few in stock.
cheers
:)

[BMKal]

if same for the d2 i just got one today from karcraft $66 plus $5 for a pack of trim clips, they have a few in stock.
cheers
:)

They are the same (front ones only) and that's a good price. I bought one from Rovacraft in Perth a few months back for $84 plus freight.

Haven't installed it yet, as I got stuck into the original one with the Mig while I had it out and it's still going strong.