Operation Ralph! [Archive] - Australian Land Rover Owners

ezyrama

8th August 2009, 05:39 PM

Hi Guys

I have finally had a chance to make a start on the 2a, I have removed the roof to get rid of the carpet stuck to it, repaired all the wiring for the headlights,fitted new parkers,bliker and stop/tail lights so I can move it around. The next thing is to replace the wiring harness that arrived the other day (looks a bit daunting,but what the hell I'll give it a go). When I took the door tops off the drivers side came off fairly easily but on the passenger side
I had to break the bolts securing the tops to the doors:(, they were completely rusted in place. I have had a look at the door tops once off and it looks like they might be unsalvageable bar the glass as under the bailey channel there is holes everywhere:o. Does anyone know where I may be able to source a couple of door tops or complete doors.I took it for a drive around the block once the roof came off and it reminded me of driving my old minimoke so I am toying with the idea of replacing the hardtop with a soft top when I get to that part of the operation. I found that there is one shock absorber missing in action (front left,thank god for leaf springs) There was a set in the car when I got it for the rear but after measuring them extended and closed it looks like they are for a nissan patrol, so if anyone want's them your are welcome to them. All the tie rod end boots on the steering are perished,so I will have to order a set next week along with the shockies. The speedo does not work so tomorrow I will pull out the cable to see if that is the problem or it's the speedo itself. I had a look at the chassis and it looks pretty good. there is minimal rust but a lot of flaking paint so I'll attack that next with the wire brush to make sure all's good underneath. I was going to take a few photo's but I left it a bit late so I'll endevour to take a few in the morning.

Cheers Ian

ezyrama

9th August 2009, 10:39 AM

isuzutoo-eh

9th August 2009, 11:00 AM

Good start Ian,
Hold your breath removing that carpet :p
And the one remaining driving light looks ideal for a rear work light :)
Not too sure about your door top problem, the bolts should drop out with a little bit of force unless the corrosion is REALLY bad or something has been used to make them not rattle-silicon perhaps.
There have been a few threads about door tops recently, I think repro ones are around about $120 each.
Cheers,
Mark

JDNSW

9th August 2009, 11:12 AM

The speedo problem is most likely to be the cable, but is unlikely to be the head, although this is possible. The other likely cause of a non-functioning speedo is the drive worm on the transfer case output shaft is slipping. It is not keyed or splined to the shaft but is only held by being clamped by the nut on the end of the shaft - and they do slip! Undo the flange where the rear prop shaft is attached at the back of the handbrake drum (bolts are captive) and tighten the big nut you will see under it.

John

3 ball

9th August 2009, 01:18 PM

Hi Guys
Some photo's for your perusal.The doortop bolts on the passenger side have snapped off in the channel, what do you reckon, soak them with penetrating oil for a couple of days to a week and try to get them out or ????

Cheers Ian

G'day Ian
MAte I had the same problem with my drivers side doortop only the p/o had cut it off, the bolts where realy stuck. Not even the 4 pound hamer would budge them.
I ended up puting the door in the vice with some timber on either side of the bolt hole and by tightening the vice 'pressed' the bolt out. Once I had the thing mooving it was then possible to knock it out with a drift. Although I did deskin the door first you should be able to do it with the skin on.
I hope that helps.
Cheers
Joel

ezyrama

9th August 2009, 04:37 PM

Hey Mark

That light is so I can see where I've been, :). I'll try the penetrating oil first, but do you know who has the repro doors?? is it fourwheeldrives in Victoria or I have seen another one around here 4x4 spares or something like that.

Cheers Ian
Thought for the day
If the best things in life are free,
then at my income level,
I must be the happiest man alive!

isuzutoo-eh

9th August 2009, 05:20 PM

the mob in melb would have them, but from what I have read on this forum, if you order door tops you might get fuel tank...
Ben (Isuzurover) mentioned he bought his from a place in Brisbane, have a look in this thread:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/general-chat/85258-door-tops.html
Cheers,
Mark

ezyrama

9th August 2009, 05:47 PM

Thanks Mark
I was speaking to a guy by the name of Alan in Kempsey late last week and he gave me a phone no. of the crowd in Brisbane. As yet I have not called them so it might be the first thing I do on Monday. It will probably save a bucket load in freight and I might just have to go up there to check out what he has(READ KID IN A CANDY SHOP;))

Cheers Ian

peterg1001

9th August 2009, 05:52 PM

What sort of seats did you use - were they bolt-in?

Thanks, Peter

ezyrama

10th August 2009, 11:54 AM

What sort of seats did you use - were they bolt-in?

Thanks, Peter

Hi Peter
They were already in the car but apparently they are Cortina Seats,I will have to have a look for you as to how they are mounted though. IGBTYS (I'll get back to you shortly);)

digger

10th August 2009, 11:46 PM

nice truck!

interesting exhaust location???

watching with interest!

cheers
digger

ezyrama

11th August 2009, 06:39 PM

Well I ordered the door tops, new shocks all round and leaf & chassis bushes from FWD Motors in Brisvegas on Monday, got a phone call this afternoon from Richard to say it is all there so he is sending it down on "Couriers Please" tomorrow. Can't wait for Saturday now to get my teeth stuck into it:). Must go and put that penetrating oil into the passenger door so it has a couple of day's to soak through. Will keep you posted.

Regards Ian
Thought for the day.

Why is there an expiry date on sour cream??:)

ezyrama

25th August 2009, 07:36 AM

The shocks are in , I have managed to get 1 x snapped door bolt out but the other one is stuck fast so I will keep soaking it with the hope it will let go. I attacked the front half of the chassis on Saturday with a wire wheel on the grinder, it is in excellent condition with only a bit of surface rust here and there which was quick to let clean up. The roof is off and the 70's shag pile carpet glued to it came off last night as well, (thank God for face masks:))I degreased the whole underside of the car with Dynamo and hey presto the brake lights started working (go figure) I have attached a couple of more photo's

ezyrama

25th August 2009, 07:38 AM

and some more

ezyrama

11th October 2009, 09:55 AM

Hi All

Found a bit more time to do some work on Ralph, can anyone tell me though where the key switch is supposed to be on the 2a, mine is under the dash to the right of the choke. I have seen them in a few different locations though and as I am rewiring it I want ot get it right. The passenger door top bolt that sheared off will not come out (:mad:S.O.B.) so I found a new/old stock door for a reasonable price to replace it:). I have removed the doors and rubbers and windscreen only to find a couple of problems (read rust holes)which I am working on at the moment. I have taken some photo's but this bloody computer logs me off the site when I try to upload them so I'll do it tomorrow at work. The bottom drivers door hinge? does it have a threaded plate behind it as mine continually spins as if it is snapped in half. I was thinking of cutting the bolts off and fiting nut serts in it,s place. Stay tuned for pic's tomorrow.

Cheers Ian

numpty

11th October 2009, 01:57 PM

I presume you're talking of the Ignition switch? If so, this should be in the instrument panel between the gauges. Early ones with the light switch and later ones a key on their own. Choke on our 11A is top right of insrument panel

JDNSW

11th October 2009, 02:55 PM

Hi All

Found a bit more time to do some work on Ralph, can anyone tell me though where the key switch is supposed to be on the 2a, mine is under the dash to the right of the choke. .......

The key switch on Landrover 2a is located in the centre of the instrument panel on petrol models, up to 1967 combined with the light switch, after that, by itself but now combined with the key start. Diesels have the combined glow plug/starter/electrical services switch next to the engine stop knob below the instrument panel. I'm afraid I cannot remember whether the later diesels had the switch in the same place as earlier ones (I think so) or the same as the petrol ones.

John

ezyrama

12th October 2009, 12:48 PM

Hi Guys

I have uploaded some piccy's to look at. if you look at pic no. 5 it shows the ignition switch tucked up under the dash with the light switch in the middle of the dash. BTW, mine is a 1966 diesel.Sorry guy's cant seem to upload phots at the moment. Will try again later

numpty

12th October 2009, 06:26 PM

ezyrama

20th October 2009, 04:12 PM

Choke , Fast Idle, whatever you want to call it.Here are a couple of piccy's for you.

ezyrama

20th October 2009, 04:17 PM

And a couple of after shots.

ezyrama

15th December 2009, 07:14 PM

Hi All

I managed to pick up a 77 series 3 swb (nicknamed Smeg) with everything factory original and was thinking of pulling the factory diesel and seats out and putting them into Ralph the 2a so I can take it back to original and put the cortina seats and TD27 nissan motor out of Ralph into Smeg. As far as I know changing the motors over should be straight forward other than swapping the adapter plate over on the nissan motor. Is Smeg's gearbox the same as Ralph or is there a difference between the S3 (Smeg) and S2 (Ralph).

Cheers Ian

Shonky

16th December 2009, 07:12 AM

The series III box has synchro on all four gears, but is generally considered to be more fragile than the IIa box. Ralph's box should have synchro on 3/4 only.

It would be very straightforward to swap the entire engine/gearbox combo between vehicles. If you wanted to keep the gearboes in situ, that is not hard either but will mean you will have to fiddle around getting the output shaft aligned with clutch plate.

With the adaptor plate, don't unbolt it from the motor! Just undo it at the bellhousing and let it come out with the donk. Consider it as part of the motor.

ezyrama

18th March 2010, 04:40 PM

Hi Guys
Well the cooler weather has arrived and I might get some time to get into Ralph (S2a) and Smeg (S3) over the next few weeks. All the body/rust work in the bulkhead has been rectified and I delivered both vehicles home today. The place is starting to look like a car yard again. I am going to swap the motors and put the 2.25 into Ralph and Smeg can have the TD27 Nissan motor. Smeg needs a new clutch though and that will be the first point of attack so I can get at least one vehicle mobile, registered and join our wonderful GCLROC (If they will have me). went to the club meeting (if you can call it a meeting, more like a social gathering) now THAT'S the way a club meeting should be!

Cheers Ian

P.S I'll take some photo's of the repair job on the bulkhead and the passenger footwell and post them up on Monday,

Thought for the day!
True wilderness
The space between a greenie's ears.

ezyrama

2nd April 2010, 05:12 PM

Hi Guys "n" Gals

Just pulled the motors out of ralph and smeg and we have a conumdrum. I did as you suggested Shonky and left the adapter plate on the nissan motor, but the studs on the 2 bell housings dont line up. I have attched a couple of photo's to show what's going on. I didnt really want to change the gearboxes unless I absolutely had to as the s3 is going to be my son's car and I would rather I had the box without all syncro's. Any idea's?? I have also found some water in cylinder no.1 in the "V" on the piston. The head gasket looks ok but the water seemed to be coming from underneath the gasket into the cylinder. This head gasket has "petrol" stamped into it below cyl. no.4, do they all use the same gasket or do you think someone has fitted the wrong one at some stage?
P.S. The first pic is ralphs bell housing and the 3rd pic is smegs bell housing.

Cheers Ezy.

ezyrama

5th April 2010, 10:20 AM

korg20000bc

5th April 2010, 12:56 PM

The colour, to the best of my knowledge is called "Duck egg blue".

peterg1001

5th April 2010, 07:37 PM

I did a bit of research on engine colours, with the results at Paint for the engine (http://www.greenacre.biz/landrover/916_enginepaint/916_enginepaint.htm).

Having gone to all that trouble, I decided I didn't like the colour anyway, and painted the engine cast iron grey.

I've still got the Dunsfolds and the VTR paints in the shed, if you're interested, although VTR paint should be readily available.

Peter

ezyrama

6th April 2010, 06:43 AM

ezyrama

6th April 2010, 07:01 AM

Regarding my previous post about the bell housings, what if I get a flywheel & flywheel housing off a 2a and fitted it to my engine block. Is the starter motor the same between the 2a & 3 as they are in different positions on the flywheel housing.

Cheers Ian

series3

6th April 2010, 08:06 PM

Hi All

Does anyone have any idea's to the above question and can someone tell me the correct name of the blue paint used on the 2.25ltr motor (if it has one?). Got a heap of more photo's but I'm buggered if I can find the camera lead
:unsure:
Regards Ian

Hey Ian I can't link them onto here at the moment I'm using a phone but in my thread in the 2/2a section there are pictures of my 2.25 with duck egg blue colour.

Cheers,

Sam

banjo

7th April 2010, 11:35 AM

ezyrama

7th April 2010, 07:06 PM

Hi i was wondering if you knew who made the addapter for the nissan engine.I'm interested in looking into that if you know.Thanks.

No I don't sorry Jason, I bought the truck with the engine in it. If I can find the previous owners phone no. I will call him and ask him for you.

Cheers Ian

ezyrama

7th April 2010, 07:08 PM

Hey Ian I can't link them onto here at the moment I'm using a phone but in my thread in the 2/2a section there are pictures of my 2.25 with duck egg blue colour.

Cheers,

Sam

Hey Sam
Try multimedia to send the photo to your email account and then save the pic's to your desktop. That's what I had to do until I find the lead for the camera.

Cheers Ian

ezyrama

7th April 2010, 07:26 PM

Finally found the camera lead (I had a man's look:cool:) Here are some more photo's of the project.
001 shows the rust repair to the bulkhead, my sheetmetal guy made two separate pieces, tacked them together,welded them in and used a die grinder to tidy it up. he did the same to both door frames and in front of the steering wheel. 2&3 are the nissan motor on it's way out of Ralph and 4 is the 2.25 being lifted out of Smeg.

ezyrama

7th April 2010, 07:41 PM

and a couple more.Smile for the camera Macca (Sorry mate, I forgot you were wanted in 3 states and 1 territory;))I had to gerni the chassis and around the gearbox for the 5th time after the floor and engine came out of Smeg. It's amazing how much krudd can hide up, under the seat box! O'h and BTW I seem to have lost all the brakes in Ralph as well, No fluid anywhere, but no pedal pressure either! BUGGER!

jakeslouw

7th April 2010, 08:45 PM

ezyrama

9th April 2010, 05:04 PM

We can get the TD27 over here for small change (around AUD$1500 for a low-kilo Jap unit), and I will be considering this as a Series upgrade option.

Can you take some shots of the bell housing adapter plate please?

(PM to me if you don't want to pollute the thread....) :)

Pic's as requested, not the best as it is in a bugger of a spot in the garage. I will pull it out if I get time over the weekend.

Cheers Ian

jakeslouw

9th April 2010, 11:49 PM

Thanks, mate, those are great.

ezyrama

14th April 2010, 05:01 PM

Found the problem Gents,
When some tosspot corrupted the breed by fitting the Nissan motor they fitted a 2a 6 cylinder bell housing to match up with the adapter plate. I have managed to track down a S3 6 bell housing, but I still need a 2a 4 cylinder bell housing if anyone has one lying around or maybe a spare one in their back pocket.. Any help in tracking one down would be greatly appreciated. I have tried British 4wd in vic., Gold city LR in Gympie, British off road @ Nambour, Rick's here on the goldie and one or two others.

Thanks Guys Ian

Thought for the day:
What if everyone in the world farted at the same time?

UncleHo

20th April 2010, 09:35 AM

ezyrama

22nd April 2010, 05:17 PM

G'day Ezyrama :)

In regards to your question about the bellhousings on page 3, the 2a bell housing is the 4 cyl diesel one (3 bolt starter) and the S3 one is from a 6cylinder motor, upper bolt hole in 12 o'clock position,(same as early series 1's) the 2a box is the stronger of the 2 as the S3 all syncro box was known to be weaker as the gears were shortened to take the syncro hubs, also the S 3box lever would be near straight, if the Ser 3 was originally a 6 pot the firewall would have the extra bit to move the box bck to make room for the original motor.

I think Marks adaptors in Melbouren was the one that made those adaptors years ago. I think I have a Ser 3 4cyl bell housing around someware,but no 2/2a's

cheers

Thanks Mate
I have decided to refit the 2.25 to the S3 and leave the Nissan out of Ralph for now, but when I can find a suitable donor drivetrain I will swap it to maintain the breed. The main focus is to get theS3 on the road as my son gets his P plate in a couple of months and as he is in the army cadets and wants to join the reserve's when he hits 17 (bloody hell it only seems like a couple of years ago I was picking him up from day care:o) and then he can drive himself around.

Cheers Ian

dullbird

30th April 2010, 06:30 PM

anymore progress?

really been enjoying this thread...I gave you a gold star for effort:)

ezyrama

21st May 2010, 08:54 PM

anymore progress?

really been enjoying this thread...I gave you a gold star for effort:)

HeY Mate
No Unfortuneatly, the S3 (smeg)is the main focus at the moment, I picked up a new outrigger my sheety made me the other day and might have a go at fitting it to the passenger side bulkhead this weekend ( he made 2 x by mistake). Then it's matter of getting the rear crossmember back he is replicating for me and then I can put him back together. Must say though I cant wait to attack Ralph again, hope to get it going for summer. Found a beautiful area down in the border rangers a couple of weeks ago whilst riding the bike and I am keen as mustard to take him for a drive down there.

Cheers Ian

P.S.--
Did you hear about the Irish Exorcism? A mother had to call in the Devil to get the priest out of her son...

Landy Smurf

21st May 2010, 09:02 PM

hey great thread really good photos and details you are putting up keep up all the good work

ezyrama

27th May 2010, 06:51 PM

Hi All

I was going to fit the rear cross member this weekend and put the motor back in but sadly I got a phone call this morning at 5.30am to tell me the wife's father had passed away in his sleep,:(, so it's a trip to Sydney in the morning in the Jackaroo to pay our respects and do what has to be done. At least the young bloke will get a few hours up on his learner's though, hopefully I can get stuck into it next weekend(getting itchy feet about it).

Regards Ian

Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak. ;)

ezyrama

10th June 2010, 07:24 PM

here's a photo of the outrigger I had made.

cheers Ian

ezyrama

24th June 2010, 06:53 PM

I spoilt myself last weekend and redesigned the workshop complete with new bench 2400mm long, storage caddy for all the nuts and bolts and brought all the tools into one place (the wife just said the biggest tools typing now:o). The new rear cross member & clutch comes home tomorrow, and I can start rebuilding the S3 so I can move it out of the way and then have some real fun with Ralph's rebuild.

ezyrama

3rd July 2010, 04:05 PM

Ralph has stalled until I get Smeg on the road for my son,but here is a photo of the rear crossmember I had made.

Cheers Ian

The ho har's

3rd July 2010, 05:50 PM

Very nice indeed...missing a few holes but still very nice:D

Mrs hh:angel:

ezyrama

20th August 2010, 06:51 PM

Done the motor, just got to put the oil filter assembly on and the exhaust manifold so I can drop it back in.

dullbird

2nd September 2010, 10:00 AM

ezyrama

3rd September 2010, 05:03 PM

Hey Ezy

I have my engine on an engine stand ready to paint.....how did you do yours??? did you pull it all apart or did you paint in situ?

Also what did you clean it up with before painting?

and how did you get the top bit so shinny did you chrome it?

Thanks

Lou
Hey Lou
Because the motor only has 79000k on it from new, I didnt have to rebuild it but I did put a gasket kit thru it so I had to pull everything off. Before I stripped off all of the ancillary gear I covered up all the holes from the injectors and such as degreased it with the pressure cleaner, let it dry and then stripped it, put the gaskets thru it and then gave it a clean with a wire brush and wet and dry,wiped the whole thing down again and again with metho and then Prep-Sol before using a can of Scania blue hi temperature engine paint which is the stuff my neighbour used to resrpray the head after he re-conditioned it. As the rocker cover is cast aluminium it was cleaned up with Kero and a mild wire brush on a battery drill making sure not to damage the badges riveted to it. I am quite happy with the result and I hope to refit it this weekend (unfortunatly it is not going into Ralph:(, my son is having it in his project Smeg)
Hope this helps

Cheers Ian

"TRUE WILDERNESS"
The space between a greenie's ears!

dullbird

3rd September 2010, 05:39 PM

thats very helpful thanks mate:)

ezyrama

4th September 2010, 05:40 PM

I was stripping, cleaning and painting the rear bar this arvo, came up pretty good too until I started to strip the tow hook plate and the grinder with the wire brush somehow managed to grab the edge of my glove and ripped the glove off, tore across the back of my wrist and opened up the back of my left hand:oops2: no stitches luckily but it will stop me from playing in the shed for a week or two:(

chazza

4th September 2010, 07:04 PM

Hard luck with the accident Ian and I hope you recover quickly!

This is why I never wear gloves with an angle grinder, or when using a spindle mounted wire brush on a bench grinder. Similarly; I also believe a guard around a wire brush is dangerous, because if the brush gets hold of a glove or skin, it will probably drag a hand into the space between the guard and the brush :eek:

Cheers Charlie

ezyrama

6th September 2010, 05:21 PM

Yeah, you live and learn Charlie, Thanks Mate.

ezyrama

20th October 2010, 04:27 PM

does anyone have a good contact for glow plugs please.

Cheers Ian

ezyrama

5th April 2011, 06:12 PM

Hi All
Almost have Smeg back together, so I am thinking of making a re-start on Ralph as he looks neglected sitting in the driveway being used as a storage cupboard, so I broached the subject of moving SWMBO'D Triumph out of the workshop so I could get Ralph's engine on the stand and get my hands dirty, well chop my legs off and call me stumpy:o, did I cop an earful or what from herindoors:cool:. Might have to do a bit and then pack up and move the Trumpy back in each night to keep the peace.I was helping a mate last weekend by installing some air cond for him and he rewarded me with a full set of seats for Ralph he has had sitting in a cupboard for the last 10 years after he rebuilt one and put bucket seats in.
Hopefully I can get some photo's up shortly as I am really looking forward to bringing this one back to life.

Cheers Ian

ezyrama

23rd May 2011, 08:25 AM

Could someone post a picture of the pre 1967 dash panel for me please. Apparently it s a push button start and not key start if I am correct
(1966 suffix "C"). I am rewiring the dash panel and someone has fitted a key switch under the dash panel to the right of the gear stick and joined the wires with duct tape behind the panel to re-route them below. I want to re-do it the way it is suppose to be.
Thanks Ian

JDNSW

23rd May 2011, 08:50 AM

Is this what you are looking for? Up to suffix 'C' petrol Landrovers had a direct action push button on the bulkhead ahead of the Yellow knob, and diesels had a key services/start/heater switch on the subpanel under the instrument panel next to the engine stop (which was the choke on petrol engines)

John

Ratel10mm

23rd May 2011, 08:52 AM

Duct tape? Sounds fine to me - don't you know you can fix anything with duct tape & chewing gum? :D ;P Oh, and if you want to be really, really s***-hot mechanic, you could use BP's! It's the Qld. way, mate! ;)

Have you got him into work yet? I'm still working on swmbo re. the S3 (I was hoping Mum would be on-side but she turns out to think I'm NUTS!). If I win, I was thinking to borrow / rent a trailer to bring the S3 home - in which case there'd probably be time to move Ralph too if you wanted?

isuzutoo-eh

23rd May 2011, 09:05 AM

ezyrama

23rd May 2011, 10:48 AM

Fresh as of 5 minutes ago, petrol 1963 model.
Below the dash panel you can see two buttons, the smaller, upper one to the right of the hand throttle is the pull-out choke, the lower larger is the start button.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/05/434.jpg

Thanks Mark, John that's great.
Mine is a diesel, but I take it the key on the headlight switch isolates the ignition system so the push button start is inoperative?

JDNSW

23rd May 2011, 11:02 AM

Thanks Mark, John that's great.
Mine is a diesel, but I take it the key on the headlight switch isolates the ignition system so the push button start is inoperative?

No. The ignition switch does not isolate the starter switch, which is always live - it works directly on the heavy wire form the battery to the starter with no solenoid.

The diesel has a more or less conventional key operated switch located on the subpanel where the choke is on isuzutoo-eh's picture, with the stop knob next to it. The diesel has no key switch in the headlight switch. The diesel does have a conventional solenoid on the starter.

John

ezyrama

23rd May 2011, 11:09 AM

John, if you look at the last post on page 2of this blog, 2nd photo fro the left. is that the way it is supposed to be then.

JDNSW

23rd May 2011, 02:21 PM

Yes, except that is not the original key switch. The original, which directly switches a heavy current for the heater plugs, has a receptacle a bit like a wing nut that the key goes into so that the switch can require a lot of pressure without risk of breaking the key. The blanking plug to the right of the key switch in the photo is where the engine stop control goes.

ezyrama

23rd May 2011, 03:16 PM

Thanks John.

ezyrama

30th September 2011, 02:18 PM

Knocked off early the other day (1st time in yonks) and pulled the tub off Ralph. I pressure cleaned the chassis, gearbox and transfer case. Cant believe how good a condition the chassis is in compared to Smeg. I went down to the show @ Castle Hill in Sydney last weekend and it has got me champing at the bit to get cracking on Ralph, so this weekend it's all about stripping and painting the chassis, clipping up the wiring loom to the rear of the car and making a start on priming and painting the repaired bulkhead after I pull off all the fuel filters and wiring harness. I have attached a couple of photo's from Castle Hill. My favourite is the firefly, I keep threatening SWMBO to buy one and make her come for a drive with my on weekends.;)
Cheers Ian

will d8r

30th September 2011, 04:01 PM

The white truck looks good

ezyrama

30th September 2011, 04:10 PM

He has done a fantastic job on the rear bulkhead, The fit and finish is factory quality. If I'm not mistaken the truck has been in LRM and was modified after someone rear ended him.

outback jeff

30th September 2011, 05:47 PM

ezyrama

4th October 2011, 06:46 PM

Great photos Ian , would love to see more photos from Castle Hill if you have got them, as some of us are not lucky enough to get down there, (or should that read can't get permission to go ).

Cheers Jeff

I had a good excuse to go, Dad has been ill for the last 6 months but is starting to come good so I thought I would use the show as an excuse to go and see him and take him out for the day. Unfortunately the weather was crappy and dad didn't last too long before he went back to the car for a rest, so I didn't get too many more pic's. I'll have a look and post up anything else I have.

Cheers Ian

The ho har's

4th October 2011, 08:09 PM

Great photos Ian , would love to see more photos from Castle Hill if you have got them, as some of us are not lucky enough to get down there, (or should that read can't get permission to go ).

Cheers Jeff

There is a trip report in the NSW section;) We have picsas well:)

Yes we were there as well, SORRY IAN, for not recognising you didn't expect see someone from up this way down there that we didn't travel with:)

Mrs hh:angel:

outback jeff

4th October 2011, 08:26 PM

I had a good excuse to go, Dad has been ill for the last 6 months but is starting to come good so I thought I would use the show as an excuse to go and see him and take him out for the day. Unfortunately the weather was crappy and dad didn't last too long before he went back to the car for a rest, so I didn't get too many more pic's. I'll have a look and post up anything else I have.

Cheers Ian

Thanks Ian that would be great, If you can't just take plenty at the Heritage Expo this weekend if your going, as I am unable to make it down to that as well. Good to here your Dad is on the mend.

Cheers Jeff

The ho har's

4th October 2011, 08:31 PM

Thanks Ian that would be great, If you can't just take plenty at the Heritage Expo this weekend if your going, as I am unable to make it down to that as well. Good to here your Dad is on the mend.

Cheers Jeff

Heritage expo is cancelled:(

Mrs hh:angel:

Ratel10mm

4th October 2011, 08:52 PM

....

Yes we were there as well, SORRY IAN, for not recognising you didn't expect see someone from up this way down there that we didn't travel with:)

Mrs hh:angel:

It's that Out Of Context thing Carolyn. Happens to me fairly often, much to my embarrassment.

ezyrama

7th October 2011, 12:12 PM

;);)
It's that Out Of Context thing Carolyn. Happens to me fairly often, much to my embarrassment.

Yeah, but you see me regularly Matt and still pretend to not know me :D
At least Mrs hh had an excuse.

OH NO!! Here you come now!, not my day when I have to deal with customers like you is it!!

ezyrama

26th October 2011, 01:27 PM

Matthew tried to get to my place on Saturday to bleed the brakes again but he was struck by a fuel delivery problem, so I took the tub off, stripped down the chassis and re painted it, sorry for the quality of the photo, I don't know if I moved the phone or the fumes got to me.

" I got home on Saturday night after a night on the cards with Matt and SWMBO started to have a go at me for being so late. I said " Stop right there woman, pack your bags, your going to live with Matthew as I lost you in a card game" she said " How dare you lose me to him in something as trivial as a card game!!". I said "Yeah, it was really hard to fold with 4 aces!!"

ezyrama

6th September 2012, 03:12 PM

Hi All
Cant believe it's been so long between drinks on Ralph, I have finished the chassis, primed and topcoated the bulhead and started to run the new wiring harness through the chassis and around the bulkhead, done the uni-joints and replaced the yoke sleeve boot on the front shaft, the next thing is to try and make heads and tails of the wiring harness to re-wire the dash and all the connections around the brake pedal switch area so I re-fit the engine. I did the brakes when I first started the rebuild back in what seems another life ago but I want to go over them again and I have noticed the clutch master cylinder is ted's brother as the pedal is only going 1/2 way down before stopping dead, so I will have to replace that and the slave cylinder so it's all fresh. Hopefully I will get some more time this weekend. Saturday is out as I FINALLY get my motorbike back from the panelbeaters after coming off 6 weeks ago and I have withdrawal symptons :banana:and have been roped into a 600km little trip, so Sunday looks like the day.

Cheers Ian

ezyrama

19th September 2012, 09:54 AM

The dash is finished, now all I have to do is rewire it.

Johnno1969

21st September 2012, 08:02 PM

A thing of beauty is a joy forever.

ezyrama

26th September 2012, 08:20 PM

A thing of beauty is a joy forever.

Some people just dont get it do they?

Johnno1969

26th September 2012, 09:00 PM

Some people just dont get it do they?

Nope, I guess they don't. But luckily some of us do (that is, unless you were insinuating that I didn't...in which case I don't understand that post at all...) The Series II and IIA instruments are better than art. Just beautiful.

Hey what year is your vehicle? My 88 is a 1965 and it has something that looks suspiciously like a trip meter on the speedo, though there is no way to "zero" it that I can find (it's actually jammed at 666.6, which I love as it is exactly 0.6 more evil than the average antichrist...).

JDNSW

30th September 2012, 05:51 AM

Nope, I guess they don't. But luckily some of us do (that is, unless you were insinuating that I didn't...in which case I don't understand that post at all...) The Series II and IIA instruments are better than art. Just beautiful.

Hey what year is your vehicle? My 88 is a 1965 and it has something that looks suspiciously like a trip meter on the speedo, though there is no way to "zero" it that I can find (it's actually jammed at 666.6, which I love as it is exactly 0.6 more evil than the average antichrist...).

Trip meter was optional from Series 2 on. The reset is a flexible cable brought out to a twist knob on the front panel, at least on later ones, although I have a feeling early ones had a 'stem' that stuck out a hole in the structure below the instrument panel. John

Johnno1969

4th October 2012, 04:33 PM

Trip meter was optional from Series 2 on. The reset is a flexible cable brought out to a twist knob on the front panel, at least on later ones, although I have a feeling early ones had a 'stem' that stuck out a hole in the structure below the instrument panel. John

Thanks John. My vehicle had, I guess, been through quite a few owners before I bought it and there's never been any of the reset gear on the vehicle in the time I've known it. It's good to know the background.

Cheers,

John

ezyrama

19th October 2012, 12:00 PM

Nope, I guess they don't. But luckily some of us do (that is, unless you were insinuating that I didn't...in which case I don't understand that post at all...) The Series II and IIA instruments are better than art. Just beautiful.

Hey what year is your vehicle? My 88 is a 1965 and it has something that looks suspiciously like a trip meter on the speedo, though there is no way to "zero" it that I can find (it's actually jammed at 666.6, which I love as it is exactly 0.6 more evil than the average antichrist...).

Mate, I too nice to insinuate something like that, especially to another Roverphile!. It's the great unwashed that dont understand us. I just love the small instrument binnacle in the middle of the car, it reminds me of my old minimoke. Mines a 66 model (the same vintage as me) and hopefully I can get this going before too long as I have sold Smeg (series 3, hate the dash) and I want to get this one on the road sooner rather than later.

Cheers Ian

B.S.F.

19th October 2012, 01:38 PM

Trip meter was optional from Series 2 on. The reset is a flexible cable brought out to a twist knob on the front panel, at least on later ones, although I have a feeling early ones had a 'stem' that stuck out a hole in the structure below the instrument panel. John

The Series 1 L/R parts catalogue no.4107 June 1956 lists speedo with trip meter as opt. equip. on 237.page. The one in the picture belongs to a S2 109. (1408 revs per mile). I believe all the S1 with trip were 1500 . W.

JDNSW

19th October 2012, 03:01 PM

The Series 1 L/R parts catalogue no.4107 June 1956 lists speedo with trip meter as opt. equip. on 237.page. The one in the picture belongs to a S2 109. (1408 revs per mile). I believe all the S1 with trip were 1500 . W.

I stand corrected - I don't have a Series 1 parts book, not having owned a Series 1 for fifty years. But just as an indication, the 2a/3 optional parts book lists 24 different speedos, with combinations tyre size, kph/mph, warning lights/no warning lights (suffix C-D, trip/no trip, four/six (Six speedo goes to a higher speed), and Series 2a/3. Speedos for Series 2 I suspect are the same as Series 1. All of these speedos can be interchanged (with appropriate cable), all the way from Series 1 86/107 to Series 3, and allowing for tyre size will work.

So heaven knows what speedo is in any given Series Landrover today!

John

Johnno1969

19th October 2012, 06:18 PM

Thanks everybody. With all this talk of different speedos, I was starting to get confused. Then I remembered the most important thing about mine, wherever it came from: it works! For a long time, it didn't - then I decided to spoil myself with a new speedo cable eleven years ago. Now I can see exactly how far under the speed limit I am at any given moment on the road.....

ezyrama

25th October 2012, 04:52 PM

Homestar

27th October 2012, 07:33 AM

Personally, I wouldn't bother with the ammeter if you have an alternator fitted. I would run the alternator output straight to the battery with some new cable, and remove the old flimsy crap they ran up to the ammeter - you will have less voltage drop that way.

Cheers - Gav.

JDNSW

27th October 2012, 09:33 AM

As Gav says. Plus the current from the alternator will exceed the maximum scale of the ammeter, and may even damage the meter.

John

ezyrama

20th November 2012, 02:33 PM

Thanks Gav, John.
Sorry for the late reply, things have been put on hold for a while, I have been going back and forwards to Sydney to be with my sick father and sadly he passed away 2 weeks ago from Lymphoma[bigsad], back on deck now and hopefully looking at re-wiring the dash this weekend if the weather here holds out. Too busy at work to have a crack at it during the week as I dont get home till its almost dark.Still have to pull out the clutch slave/master cylinders and have a look at them, the pedal has almost seized up so i'll change the lot I think.

Regards Ian

Ozdunc

20th November 2012, 03:50 PM

My condolences for your loss.:(

Landy Smurf

20th November 2012, 04:39 PM

Sorry to hear that Ian. all the best to you and your family

ezyrama

21st November 2012, 07:43 PM

Thanks Guys

We appreciate the thought.

ezyrama

2nd April 2013, 03:27 PM

Hi All
Summer is over, the sons car is fixed, the wifes car is fixed, the rain is dissapatying (hopefully)and now I can get back into the important things, namely Ralph's rebuild. I pulled the dust covers off him yesterday and gave him pride of place back under the carport. I have ordered a new slave cylinder/hose kit for it, I assume I cant get the original tin fluid reservoir anymore, is the photo attached the new replacement, as I have one line to the clutch and one to the brakes coming out of it.This would be one of the slowest rebuilds ever or at least it feels like it, started 8/8/09 and I am still going!!!
Cheers Ian

Landy Smurf

2nd April 2013, 04:32 PM

I am pretty sure you can still get the tins check overseas. If you have o luck I may have one here.

ezyrama

3rd April 2013, 11:36 AM

Thanks Matt
I will check out the Britparts catalogue I got at the last club meeting and see if they have any. If not I might take you up on the offer.
Cheers Mate, Ian

schuy1

3rd April 2013, 12:17 PM

Geez, when I get Ralph finished, I will be able to baffle the family again by talking in miles per gallon. I just got use to talking in metricometers too!:D.
I have one question though, if I have an alternator in Ralph, is there any point in wiring up the ammeter in that thing of beauty(the back of the dash)

IF you dont like to see the Amp Meter sitting doing nothing you can wire it into the alternator system without overloading and still use it to check the alt is charging. Just wire the alternator directly( If it is the internal regulator type ) to the battery , then wire the Amp meter into the the system via a loop, EG a wire from alternator charge to meter and from meter to battery. that way only a small portion of charge travels via meter but still allows monitoring of charge. If you follow me :D
Have had mine done like that for 20 yrs and no problems,

Cheers Scott

ezyrama

3rd April 2013, 01:25 PM

Thanks Scott
That's a great idea, I'll give it a go.
Cheers Ian

ezyrama

3rd April 2013, 01:37 PM

Cant find anything about the tin tank, so I have put an RFI in to a crowd in the UK for the twin plastic replacement. I'll wait until I get a response.

gromit

3rd April 2013, 02:46 PM

Details of original type reservoirs here Brake and Clutch Fluid Reservoirs - Pegasus Parts remanufacture new Land-Rover bulkheads for Series models. (http://www.pegasusparts.co.uk/ourshop_90073/cat_710550-Brake-and-Clutch-Fluid-Reservoirs.html)

The plastic reservoirs do eventually break down due to exposure to UV (I'm talking 20-30 years). Currently looking to replace some Series III ones, my 1956 Series I is still on it's original metal reservoir so is my 1960 Series II.

Colin

ezyrama

3rd April 2013, 02:50 PM

outback jeff

6th April 2013, 09:19 AM

outback jeff

6th April 2013, 10:55 AM

Hi Ian,

Yep, your in luck, I have two both appear to be in good nick, they don't appear to have any holes in them, they just have surface rust that should be able to be cleaned up with a bit of hydrochloric acid. Let me know if you want one of them and i'll send it down.

Cheers Jeff

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad84/jeffcon13/IMG_0021_zps476028f8.jpg

ezyrama

6th April 2013, 04:48 PM

Thanks for that Jeff, That would be great.Get the snorkel on yet????

Cheers Ian

ezyrama

22nd April 2013, 11:56 AM

Got the clutch slave and master cylinders and the connecting hose on Friday, just in time for the weekend and spent Saturday replacing the same. Also replaced the uni joints and yoke sleeve on the front driveshaft and put it all back together.

outback jeff

25th April 2013, 06:59 AM

That's a nice looking can you've got there Ian :D

ezyrama

29th April 2013, 02:18 PM

That's a nice looking can you've got there Ian :D

I said that to the wife and all I got was a slap![FishSlap].
Hopefully I can hook in this weekend and may even get the motor back in place.

ezyrama

1st June 2013, 04:40 PM

Evening all
Finally had a chance to refit the engine into Ralph, Having a hell of a time lining up the bolt on the bell housing though (still going). Cannot for love or money find the bolts, only a couple of nuts. Can someone tell me what thread they are please so I can buy some more.

Thanks Ian

ezyrama

4th June 2013, 11:41 AM

Had a mans look and found the studs for the bell housing, couldn't get it to line up so walked away and came back Sunday after a nice motorbike ride, a plate of eggs benedict and cappuccino and had another go. Sure as, it almost went straight in with only a little bit of threatening language ;). Bolted it all up, hooked up the fuel lines but I need to get a new accelerator cable. This weekend is out as we are at Janowen 4wd park with the GCLRO club. At least now I fell I am starting to get somewhere with it though. If I get home whilst still light this arvo, I'll take a picky and put it up.
Cheers Ian

ezyrama

17th June 2013, 02:27 PM

Got the exhaust fitted and most of the dash re-wired on Saturday arvo but I have a question or 2. I know the bottom left red light (larger one, cant remember what the smaller red one is for at all) was the indicators and the yellow in the middle of the instruments is the oil warning light, but I cannot remember what the blue and orange are on the bottom right either. I assume one is low fuel and one is charge light. Any ideas please.
Thx Ian

Landy Smurf

17th June 2013, 03:24 PM

I dont remember seeing them standard on my 2a but I can not remember it that well.
My s3 Diesel had a blue light that was low fuel.
I was just wondering where is the key?

Psimpson7

17th June 2013, 04:00 PM

pretty sure Blue is main beam on the headlights.

Landy Smurf

17th June 2013, 04:12 PM

Very well could be as i forgot the speedo gauge does not have the highbeam on the early s2a( i think they got them later on). There is normally switches there instead.

ezyrama

17th June 2013, 04:16 PM

Hi Pete/ Tony
The hi beam light is on the LH gauge so at the moment it has me stumped. The key is under the RH gauge on the firewall, it's a diesel and apparently that's where they were with a starter button (still gotta find one of those)

Landy Smurf

17th June 2013, 04:31 PM

is the starter button the same as what are on the petrols?
the one up the top in the middle?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/770.jpg (http://s948.photobucket.com/user/tonysmera/media/series%201/100_1423.jpg.html)

ezyrama

18th June 2013, 08:36 AM

From what I have seen on a couple of other club cars that looks like the animal, but mine has never had one since I have owned it, it has only ever had a key switch as the previous owner rewired and made a complete mess of the whole wiring harness, hence the new one I am putting through.

Landy Smurf

18th June 2013, 09:20 AM

If you can't get/find one. I am about to pull one off a S2A that I know works as I have used it,you can have it for free, Just let me know when you need it.
I am hoping to start stripping the ol' girl this week weather permitting.

ezyrama

18th June 2013, 10:57 AM

Thanks mate, much appreciated. I may take you up on it. I have to go to Sydney in a month or so, so I might drop in if that's ok.
Found this (link below) which clears up a lot of confusion, I was right for once (one in a row :p)
one is the low fuel light and the other is the glow plug light. I was wrong about the indicator light though (optional extra) bottom left is the charge light.

www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2010/01/series-iia-owners-manual/‎

Landy Smurf

18th June 2013, 11:19 AM

I never thought of a glow light but it makes sense.
No worries I may be at armidale or singleton let me know roughly when you may be passing through. I leave on the 28th of june to move to armidale but I may be back in singleton.
Or i may go to gold coast again soon if all else fails I can send it

ezyrama

18th June 2013, 11:59 AM

Cheers Tony, I owe you a drink or 6.:cool:

Landy Smurf

18th June 2013, 12:17 PM

na it is all good, maybe when you are finished i can ride shotgun for a short trip :p

ezyrama

18th June 2013, 12:56 PM

Done Deal, But I wont be going to Armidale this time of year in it!!:eek2:

Landy Smurf

18th June 2013, 01:01 PM

I am not looking forward to it either.
If there are any other parts you are after just let me know and I will see what I can find

outback jeff

18th June 2013, 07:41 PM

ezyrama

2nd July 2013, 01:59 PM

Thanks Tony/Jeff. I managed to get the dash and indicators completely wired up on the weekend, replaced the flasher can and fixed some wiring on the light mounted on the end of the indicator stalk, re-fitted the exhaust system temporarily fitted until road ready, then I'll have a new system fitted so I can unleash that HUGE 62hp @4000rpm:D. I have also fitted a new 3 fuse holder assembly on the bulkhead so I can split up the circuits a little bit which I still have to attack, I then committed a neatness and tidied the Landy shed (as it's known) and found a few items I though I had lost. If anyone needs a S3 plastic grille, let me know.

Cheers Ian

ezyrama

2nd July 2013, 02:20 PM

I have attached the owners manual file as the link above doesn't seem to work.

ezyrama

18th July 2013, 12:16 PM

I managed to pull apart the front support panel, took a close look and thought, "mmm, I could spend the next 4 hrs stripping this or take it to the sandblasters and spend $50.00, No contest I say!". Also had the bottom lip replaced at a mate's sheet-metal shop, put a quick coat of etch primer on it to stop any corrosion until I can put a bit of putty on the bottom edge this weekend to fill in the slightly pitted surface and then prime it.

ezyrama

29th July 2013, 10:49 AM

A little bit more progress this weekend, Sunday only as we had a drive with the GCLRO Club on Saturday. I only had a few hours though as it was my son's 20th birthday, quite happy with the results, had to strip back the bulkhead below the screen as I wasn't happy with the first attempt. After I re mounted the support panel I rubbed back the radiator and bonnet latch & catch, painted the up and fitted them. Then rubbed back the grille and cold gal'd it, will probably paint it in Chinese chrome or something like that.

Cheers Ian

ezyrama

1st August 2013, 12:53 PM

I painted up the gorilla last night, Ended up using some hammer-tone silver instead of Chinese Chrome, one thinks it look quite spiffy!. Hopefully this weekend I can finish the bulkhead get into front guards and maybe the tub.

Cheers Ian

ezyrama

2nd August 2013, 02:20 PM

A coupla more piccy's.
Avagoodweekendfolks
Ian

Ratel10mm

2nd August 2013, 06:48 PM

Looking very good Ian. :thumbsup:

ezyrama

14th August 2013, 12:02 PM

And now, another exciting episode of the most fantastic crime fighter the world has EVER seen! Chicken Man, He's everywhere , He's everywhere!!!!
Loved that radio skit!, bloody hilarious.
Attacked the tub and the front guards done over the weekend, some pillock coated the gal capping on the tub with Chinese chrome so I stripped it all back and tried a couple of things till I was happy with the mottled look the Hammerite finish gave them. Painted the tub, took about 4 layers of all sorts of green paint of the front guards, painted them and bolted it all back together after a little ride on the bike to let it dry. Rather chuffed at the way the old boy has come up. I just have one or two things to sort out with the wiring (I hope) and then I can fire it up. Garry, I will take you up on the offer, Away this weekend so I will call you next week.

Cheers Ian

garrywlh

14th August 2013, 04:02 PM

Ralph is looking fantastic, Ian. Must get some painting tips off you when the time comes. Well done. Spurs me on. I hope to have Hedley's engine ready to lift out next week. Baby steps.
Garry

Landy Smurf

14th August 2013, 06:02 PM

Very schmick!
I like the checker plate in the tub.

ezyrama

14th August 2013, 07:17 PM

Thanks Tony, Hows Armidale , a bit cool mate?. The chequer plate was on Ralph when I bought him. I have only cleaned it a little bit so far but it should look good when done properly. Same goes for the plates on the wings. There is one or 2 places I'm not satisfied with the paint when I take a close look so as I do the smaller bits, i.e floor panels etc, I will give those parts a bit of a rub back and re-paint. The next thing is to do the air vents and seat box and attack the tailgate which has has a whack or 2 from the towball, then the bonnet and floor panels.
Cheers Ian

Ratel10mm

14th August 2013, 07:52 PM

Yup. Looking really, really good Ian. :)

ezyrama

14th August 2013, 07:55 PM

Now you and I just have to get into "The Beast" and get it sorted Matthew.

Landy Smurf

14th August 2013, 08:25 PM

ezyrama

27th August 2013, 11:15 AM

Stripped and painted the seatbox and tailgate on the weekend, The inside lining of the tailgate was stuffed, so I made a new one out of zincalum, fitted it and painted it up. The seatbox was worse than I thought, so I pulled that to pieces as well. Painted the box itself but I still have all the seat retainers to do. I will take a few more photo's tonite and put them up. It will be a bit slow on the progress this weekend as I have SWMBO's and little SWMBO's birthdays this weekend as well as fathers day, so I don't think I will be allowed to do too much.

ezyrama

28th August 2013, 02:37 PM

Refitted the tailgate last night, don't know whether to paint the blind rivet heads or not, waddayathink? Just got a quote from Paddocks for all the door rubbers, vent seals, tailgate seal & windscreen seal, $160.00 + freight. Just waiting on the freight costing.

will d8r

28th August 2013, 04:56 PM

What sort of paint have you used on the galvanising to me it looks as close as you can get.I have tried several and none look quite right either to bright or to dull.
Cheers Will

ezyrama

29th August 2013, 11:18 AM

Hey Will

I couldn't stand the Chinese chrome some other pillock put on it so I opted for Septone Hammer finish in sliver, commonly known as hammerite. Hopefully with a top coat of clear it should last a while. I just got it from Supercrap Auto's for about $20.00 a can.
Cheers Ian

ezyrama

4th September 2013, 03:40 PM

1/ Ralph all wrapped up in bed last night after fitting the seat box and a trial fit of the air vents ( gotta get new pins yet)
2/ Another piece of the jigsaw to strip and paint, along with the floor panels.
3/ A trial fit of the seats before getting them recovered. If anyone has a seat back for the middle they don't need, pm me pls. Its approx, 400mm between the locating pins.
4/ Need to clean up the bonnet a bit more before re-painting this weekend.
Hopefully I can get a bit more done tonight, need to bleed the clutch and brakes, wire up the rear lights, and the front as well + refit the washer bottle.

garrywlh

4th September 2013, 04:54 PM

goodonya, Ian. Looks like you are making steady progress. Must be satisfying to be approaching the end? Keeps me inspired anyway.
btw, what happened to the old Cortina seats Ralph came with? Did you manage to convert them to cash?

ezyrama

5th September 2013, 12:17 PM

Hey Garry
I fitted them to my old S3 (Smeg) so my son would have something comfortable to sit on. the "deluxe" trim seats I have fitted to Ralph are from a mate of mine who had them in the shed. He rebuilt a stage 1 V8, drove it up to Tweed Heads and it caught fire from an electrical fault
(Lucas electrical,, Never!) and it burnt out in front of him (wasn't happy Jan). They are actually quite comfortable. I just need to find a centre seat back as I think I also used that in Smeg. It's either that or I make and fit a cubby box to the centre, but I would prefer a seat. I am enjoying getting close, but I always find something else to do on it or go back and tidy this and that up a bit better.
I still need to come and catch up with you and sort out that roof too.
Cheers Ian

garrywlh

5th September 2013, 06:55 PM

Thanks Ian, PM sent.

outback jeff

5th September 2013, 07:50 PM

Hi Ian, I'll have a look tomorrow I have some SII seats in the shed I'll see if there is a center one there.

Cheers Jeff

Ps Ralph is lookin good

ezyrama

9th September 2013, 10:31 AM

Hi Ian, I'll have a look tomorrow I have some SII seats in the shed I'll see if there is a center one there.

Cheers Jeff

Ps Ralph is lookin good

Thanks Mate. Your a legend. I was supposed to go fishing to Pebbly Beach on Friday morning, but my son's car starter motor crapped out on Thursday night, so I spent Friday morning pulling the starter motor out to find the contact points burnt out. As he needed the car for work Friday night, I had to fashion a set of points from a 1-1/8" copper coupling I had, bend, drill, form, fit. Clean up the contact face on the plunger and put it all back together. Didn't get it finished until lunchtime which didn't give me enough time to get to Coffs and across the tidal crossing at low tide by 2 pm, so I spent the next couple of days doing something different, working on Ralph!!. Got most of the painting completed except for a bit of tidying up, where I scratch the bolt heads adjusting the doors etc. Finished wiring up the lights etc, and a few other bits and bobs (always something else to do every time I look). Hopefully it will all come together shortly. I have all the door rubbers etc coming this week so I can get into that, including the bailey channel for the windows as well. I have attached a few more photo's.

Cheers Ian

Landy Smurf

9th September 2013, 12:05 PM

looks fantastic !

ezyrama

11th September 2013, 11:23 AM

Thanks Tony. I got all the gasket stuff yesterday, fitted the vent gaskets and the bonnet strip last night, the clips to hold the bonnet strip down were complete and utter expensive crap at $2.20 each. Nowhere near long enough, made of plastic which I think will perish from the heat of the engine after a while. I'll have to keep an eye on them. I had to glue it down as well otherwise it wouldn't stay there. Will start on the tailgate tonite and maybe the sealing strip under the windscreen, which I think could be a bit wider as well, the bit it sits on is about 40mm across but the gasket is only 30mm wide. I have a place up the road which sells the same stuff, I might see if he has something a bit wider. Got all the bailey channel hopefully turning up today as well so I can attack the door tops next.
Cheers Ian

ezyrama

13th September 2013, 10:07 AM

Put the door gaskets, bottom door gasket and tailgate gaskets on last night. I was also able to pull in the air vents another notch now they have been on for 2-3 days. I don't want to open them for a week or 2 to allow them to seat properly and give a good (as good as it can be ) seal. Will have to touch up the paint on the hinge bolts now the doors are adjusted up and I realised last night I didn't put the bonnet buffer rubbers on before I fitted the bonnet:mad: so that will have to come off again. Will make a start on the windscreen this weekend and hopefully get that and the wheels done before bleeding the clutch and brakes if I get the time. The little bits never seem to end and seem to be taking the longest time.
Cheers Ian

ezyrama

19th September 2013, 03:22 PM

Got the bailey channel etc for the windows the other day and have started to re do those. Bled the clutch but the brakes are a different matter, with the CB style master cylinder in it, it looks like I will have to pressure bleed them cause I cannot get the vac pump to suck it through. I 'll have to make up a fitting with the old canister lid and hook it up to the air compressor (14 psi apparently). That will have to wait as I am away for the next week as of tonight but back next Thursday, so I'll have a go then. Got those buffer rubbers in behind the bonnet and managed to touch up all the paint blemishes as well, but that's as far as I have managed to get this week.
Cheers All
Ian

P.S. Thanks for the centre seat Jeff.

Ozdunc

19th September 2013, 04:26 PM

Got a picture of the bonnet buffer rubbers Ian? I'm having a hard time figuring out where they should be. They sound a bit 'looxerius' like

outback jeff

28th September 2013, 07:14 AM

Hi Ian, was the center seat the type you were chasing?

Cheers Jeff

ezyrama

4th October 2013, 12:56 PM

Hi Ozdunc, I will take a piccy tonight and post it. They sit just below the air vents, 2 of them.
Hi Jeff, yeah mate, it's perfect. Just need to get it redone with the other seats. Pressure bled the brakes and it was a no go. Could not get any pedal pressure whatsoever. Just had a new master cylinder delivered to work from FWD Motors in Brissie, so I will fit it tomorrow and have another go. I had a car trailer reserved with a friend of a friend to take Ralph to the British Car Day at Rathdowney next weekend but he called me yesterday and pulled out as his son needs it to go drifting,:mad: but one of the guys at the GCLRO meeting last night, was nice enough to lend me his for the weekend, Turns out we both grew up in the same neighborhood and went to the same school, 1000km away from where we both live now!. I will have to remove the front guard to do the master cylinder and I seem to keep finding more and more holes to put nuts and bolts in and so many little fiddly things to do. The photo of the inside shows an intricate bit of ducting to channel hot air to the screen and the foot well area's. Dont yet know if I will keep it or what. I hot wired the blower fan the other day and it smoked about 30-40 seconds later, so I'll have to find another one of those as well. Luck we are coming into summer. I will take a heap of photo's and post some of next weekend if anyone is interested as we have about 13-15 British car clubs coming. If anyone is interested it is at Flanagan's Reserve, which is at the end of Lower Logan Road, 7 km among the Rathdowney/Boonah Rd, from 10am Saturday 12/10/13. There is camping at $8.00 per person per night with showers and toilets. No need to book. Should be an interesting weekend.
Cheers Ian

Johnno1969

5th October 2013, 11:15 AM

These pics are fantastic. What a brilliant looking vehicle. Thanks for keeping these posts up.

John

ezyrama

5th October 2013, 05:32 PM

Thanks John, enjoyed it, mostly!! Still having troubles bleeding the brakes, tried pressure bleeding today after changing the master cylinder (CB) type, had a peddle for a few minutes and then lost it again so it looks like more bleeding tomorrow. Ozdunc, heres the buffer rubbers, they are about 40mm in from the right hinge and only about 10mm in from the left hinge plate. Hope this helps. Managed to temporarily recover the centre back rest and will attack the rest if the seats on monday/ tuesday.
Cheers Ian

ezyrama

5th October 2013, 05:46 PM

A couple more pics.

ezyrama

6th October 2013, 07:02 AM

Can only seem to post one photo at a time when i use the mobile.modern nuclear tecnology really is wonderful, aint it!!

outback jeff

6th October 2013, 10:19 AM

Nice looking seats Ian :D

ezyrama

9th October 2013, 02:46 PM

Thanks Jeff
Now I just have to find the time to do the rest of them. The master cylinder is changed but the booster wouldn't let any fluid through, so I by-passed the booster, re-bled the brakes and got pedal pressure!!:banana: Went to take it for a run around the block, put my foot on the brake and the front passenger rubber brake line split in two!!:mad:. Changed the hose last night, re bled them again and I finally have some brakes. Took it for a run around the block and now I have a fuel delivery problem:wallbash:, I get about 300 meters and it starts to shudder as if starving for fuel, I get out and pump the filter body under the bonnet and it comes good again. I'll try replacing all the filters and see how that goes. I had almost forgotten how much fun they are to drive though.
Watch this space.

ezyrama

17th October 2013, 03:04 PM

Well I changed the fuel filters and it worked!. Went to put it on the trailer for the car show last weekend, all went well. Drove out to Rathdowney and when I went to drive it off, there was a wet patch under the front left wheel of, wait for it-------------- BRAKE FLUID!. Turns out the wheel cylinder let go and soaked the brake shoes. Oh well, waddayado?. The show was a good weekend, I got a lot of comments on Ralph and at least I got to drive him around the campground albeit with only a handbrake, but there is an 8km speed limit anyway so I just puttered around. I think I have gone about this all wrong, One thinks one should have left the brakes till last and not the 1st thing I did all those years ago. I have been told by SWMBO that I must have a break and not work on Ralph for the next month :eek: Cant see that happening, but I have organised a weekend away this weekend in a little B&B 350km west of here. We are going out on the bikes which should be fun, and it might JUST earn me enough brownie points to have a crack at redoing the whole brake set up the following weekend.
Cheers Ian

ezyrama

17th October 2013, 03:06 PM

Some more vehicles from the weekend, including the wife's bike

ezyrama

17th October 2013, 03:11 PM

If you haven't worked it out by now, I have a soft spot for an Aston Martin or A Jag!

Landy Smurf

17th October 2013, 03:57 PM

I never even clicked that was yours when looking at the report. At least you know what the problem is and sounds like a easish fix

M00nd0ggy

19th October 2013, 10:27 AM

Hi Ian

Saw you coming back just out from Canungra, I was in the Silver Defender that gave you a wave.

Ralph was looking the goods, you've done a great job.

Michael

ezyrama

22nd October 2013, 02:29 PM

Hi Tony
Yeah shouldn't be too bad, Dont think I will be allowed to do it this weekend though, Steph already has a list of things for me to do as long as my arm. I have to pull off the front guard to get to the booster, I want to change all the rubber hoses as well and the passenger guard needs to come off to get to the fan motor that smoked, but the brakes are the only thing stopping me getting Ralph registered, so that's the priority at the moment, the fan motor can wait as long as the Gold Coast doesn't have an ice age in the next few months, I don't think I will be needing a heater fan for a while yet. I went out and fired him up last night, he kicked straight away:). I am getting itchy feet about having done so much work on him and he is just sitting there until I get time to sort the brakes. Have to admit, I am really enjoying getting out out on the bike again though. We had a nice weekend away, did 720 km in 2 days, complete with a flat tyre compliments of a piece of animal bone that staked the back tyre, 15 mins later we were going again though, thanks to the repair kit I only bought last week. Best $35 I have spent in a long time. If anyone is out Texas way, drop into the Stockman's Hotel and have a drink, top pub and great people.

Hi Michael,
I do remember waving to you, (Nice Truck you have) but I was a bit late as I was having problems with the brakes biting on the trailer, hope you didn't think I was a ignorant nob. Thanks for the compliment, I am quite happy with the way Ralph has come up. I did manage to get the rest of the seats re-upholstered the night before the show (nothing like leaving it to the last minute). I will take a few pic's and post them tomorrow.

Cheers Ian

ezyrama

24th October 2013, 01:27 PM

Photo of the finished seats and the dash after I removed all traces of the ingenious heater pipes. I fitted another wiper motor cover to the drivers side and mounted the power socket, washer, wiper and fan switch to it. It also gives me somewhere to mount any other technological things I may need in the future!
Cheers Ian

ezyrama

31st October 2013, 04:45 PM

I have pulled Ralph's brakes apart as the 2 bottom wheel cylinders on the front are leaking, Picked all the bits up from the brake guy next to work this afternoon and will have a go at putting it all back together tonight, 4 new wheel cylinders, new bled nipples, new over sized shoes, new rubber hoses for front and back and machined drums, all for $300. Will have to bleed them all again (of course) then I should have some decent brakes hopefully.

ezyrama

4th November 2013, 03:20 PM

Brakes are Done and Dusted. Vacuum bled them on Saturday morning after putting it all back together and hallelujah, I have pedal. I have been thinking of only doing a bikini hood over and down behind the cab with a roll up rear window and making up a tonneau style cover for the load area utilising the tie down brackets on the side of the tub, just need to figure out how to fill in between the rear face of the door top and where the canvas would return to connect to the rear bulkhead. I suppose I could use the front hood stick only and get a motor trimmer to manufacture something, but it would also need to somehow latch (by press studs maybe) to the top face of the tonneau. Something like attached??.

Ozdunc

4th November 2013, 05:10 PM

Here's how mine attaches.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1523.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9719531403/)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1524.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9719530409/)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1525.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9719534465/)

Bottom of the rear of the cab is bungeed to some new hooks rivetted to the bulkhead, the front edge of the tonneau clips to a flap on the rear cab.
Only downside is if you want to roll up the back wall the front edge of the tonneau has nothing to attached to and droops into the tub. It doesn't affect it in anyway, it doesn't flap, but it doesn't look as nice. I might have to think of a way to hold it up.

ezyrama

5th November 2013, 04:36 PM

Thanks for that Ozdunc, looks good. I had another look last night and thought I might fit the tonneau to the front of the tub with a sail track rail, with the slide section facing backwards, then I can fit press studs and velcro between the studs to the flat part of the sail track to fix the bottom of the the rear window down. You could fix your top edge that way maybe?. If I use tonneau cover material for the tub I want to get it folded and stitched in the corners so its a firm fit and the use the existing tie downs on the sides and rear of the tub.what did you use around the top of the windscreen an behind the front doors to cradle the canvas, did you use the original soft top screen/ door brackets and the front hood stick or did you do something different?
Cheers Ian

Ozdunc

5th November 2013, 05:40 PM

Hi Ian

My hood and framework came from All Wheel Trim in the UK. I'm not sure whether the frames they provide are as the original design, but looking at a lot of 2a soft tops it appears to be very similar. They sell the windscreen mount and the door top surrounds separately.

The sail track would work but I wonder whether manhandling a heavy canvas into the track when refitting the cover would get old fairly quickly. Maybe incorporating an industrial strength zip might be better? Just a thought

Cheers Duncan

ezyrama

6th November 2013, 03:28 PM

Hi Duncan
I have a complete set of frames and hood sticks at home, so I can utilise what I need from them. I'll have a look at their website. You might be right about the zipper, but I did it for 25 years on a Moke and you have to keep the zips lubed with graphite off a lead pencil or a dry lube stick, otherwise they become a PITA especially when they are cold and shrink a bit during the winter months. Might go and talk to the motor trimmer near work this afternoon and see if he has any idea's.
Regards Ian

Ozdunc

7th November 2013, 12:27 PM

Here's a couple of photos of the front and the door frames. I'm sorry there's none of the frames without the canvas

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1338.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9722756880/)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1339.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9722758028/)

The top of the door frame is square channel and on the inside are 2 tabs similar to the ones on the leading edge to hold the tensioning strap, which doesn't seem to have anywhere to tie off, so I fed it down the sides of the door frames. As its a tight fit down there with the side canvas its holding fine just on friction alone.

I think zips have improved heaps in the last 10years or so, my old surf bags would forever need lubricating or risk corroding and seizing, but recently the big YKK zips just seem to be indestructo and self lubeing even after being covered in salt water and left in the garage.

ezyrama

13th November 2013, 12:43 PM

Looks cool, thanks for that, it gives me a few ideas. FINALLY got Ralph registered last Friday. The poor girl at QT wasn't really up to the task as he has been unregistered for 20 years. Got special interest (club) plates fitted an went on a maiden voyage on Saturday to the GCLRO AGM at Canungra. Went really well, cruised beautifully at 50 mph and was a hoot to drive finally. May have to look at the detent springs on the top of the box as he is popping out of 3rd when backing off and sometimes 2nd just aint there!!. All good fun though. Photo's to come.
Cheers Ian

Cannon

13th November 2013, 01:05 PM

Congrats Mate:)

garrywlh

13th November 2013, 03:16 PM

Congratulations, Ian! How good it must be to finally get out on the road. Hope you didn't get too sun- (or wind-) burned. ;)

btw, do I take it from your discussions about canvas roof hoods that you are no longer interested in the soft top? No problem, just need to know if I should advertise it.

cheers,

Garry

ezyrama

14th November 2013, 10:39 AM

Thanks Guys, it was a lot of fun. I was having the discussion with the wife last night on the hood and I have decided I am going to go with the full hood like yours Garry. Having some gear in the back of Ralph last weekend, chairs, esky, toolbox and spare tyre, I decided the full hood is a better option for me. I will contact you and organise to come up and collect it.
Cheers Ian

Landy Smurf

14th November 2013, 05:26 PM

:MileStone: :burnrubber: :banana: :twobeers:

Johnno1969

17th November 2013, 10:07 PM

ezyrama

21st November 2013, 03:38 PM

Thanks John
The poor girl had absolutely no idea what to do when it came up a 6 cylinder truck and not a 4 cylinder diesel SWB, but to her credit she was more than helpful and after a colleague came over and worked her magic on the computator she registered Ralph without any hassle at all. Played with the brakes again the other night and drove it into work so the brake guy next door could check them for me, did I get some looks driving him over here, especially when you select 1st at the lights with no syncro's :p
Photo's as promised.
Cheers Ian

garrywlh

21st November 2013, 05:43 PM

So, Ian, what happens with the 'special interest' rego? Cheaper than standard rego, no doubt, but what restrictions are there?
Just curious as an option for when Hedley's time eventually comes.

harry

22nd November 2013, 08:02 PM

Jump into the qld transport web, it's all there

isuzutoo-eh

23rd November 2013, 10:22 AM

Ian, not sure if you know this already, but when stopped, rowing through 3rd and 4th gears slows the shafts, meaning it'll engage 1st and 2nd without grating. Same idea works for reverse too.

harry

24th November 2013, 05:55 PM

Ian, not sure if you know this already, but when stopped, rowing through 3rd and 4th gears slows the shafts, meaning it'll engage 1st and 2nd without grating. Same idea works for reverse too.

Yep, that's how I do it, snick it into 3rd or4 th just before the lights change,,stops the box and into first as the lights change and off we go

ezyrama

4th December 2013, 06:11 PM

Thanks Mark/ Harry
Ill give it a go, btw, where do i refill the rear diff. Can see the drain plug but no fill point.

harry

4th December 2013, 06:36 PM

The fill bung should be on the front of the diff on the web of the diff centre

ezyrama

5th December 2013, 06:09 PM

Yeah thats what i thought Harry, found the front one but buggered if i can find the rear fill plug. Ill take another look and talk to you tonite. Juddy got me some new wiper assemblies today but their an inch or more too long and foul on the join strip on the windscreen. Is there a different/ shorter assembly for an earlier 2A maybe?

harry

8th December 2013, 11:02 AM

It may have a later centre fitted so you may have to pull an axle and fill from there

ezyrama

13th December 2013, 09:48 AM

Took Ralph for a spin around the block last night and got bailed up by Joe Public saying Ralph's rear drivers wheel was wobbling. Went home and had a look and sure enough it was, ripped the wheel off as I though the bearing was flogged out, but I found the drum not seating properly on the wheel stub plate. Found a "blob" of casting on the inside of the drum stopping it from seating on the plate. Attacked it with the grinder and all was good. Cant understand why I never noticed it before. The glow plug button stopped working as well, had to bridge out the glow solenoid to start it but I played around with it later and it came good.
Cheers Ian

ezyrama

21st January 2014, 05:28 PM

Hi Guys
Finally had a chance to get up to the Sunny Coast and meet Garry and Hedley. Picked up his unwanted soft top which is a good fit thanks Garry. Just waiting on Landrovers.com in Melbourne to send me up the two rear and two side galvanised staples to tie off the front corners and rear hood straps. The only thing it doesn't seem to have is the buckles on the rear of the roof to roll up the rear window, but I have a motor trimmer near work who can stitch some on for me (no problem). Ralph kinda looks finished now with the roof on, I cant find the correct door gasket for the door tops and I don't want to use that pinch weld crap I got last time, so I have enlisted the services of one of my suppliers who has a coolroom door gasket as per the photo which is a perfect fit, including the recess to fit the stainless strip, without drilling and riveting through the seal. The only thing I don't like is it's grey, so he is trying to track some down for me in black. Thanks again Garry, nice to finally put a face to a name, and as I said, if you and Christopher are down my way, give me a call.
Cheers Ian

harry

21st January 2014, 07:52 PM

for door seals and stuff, have you been to PM plastics behind the lower west Burleigh pub?
they have a really good selection of stuff.

garrywlh

21st January 2014, 08:31 PM

Thanks Ian! Ralph is looking good. Hope you get many years of good service out of the soft top.

It was great to get your advice and suggestions regarding poor old Hedley. Making slow progress on the chassis. 2014 is going to be 'the year of the rebuild'.

:cool:

Landy Smurf

21st January 2014, 09:21 PM

the hood makes it look more complete for sure. I cant wait to see this beauty one day.

Johnno1969

21st January 2014, 11:06 PM

Ralph is looking brilliant, Ian. Thanks for the note on the door seal options, as I am soon going to be looking at what will best suit my vehicle too.

Keep up the good work!

John

ezyrama

29th January 2014, 03:46 PM

Thx Harry, I'll have to take a drive and see what they have.

Cheers Garry, Found the right clips for the hood straps near the doors, just have to find time to fit them now. (5.82 GBP + freight or $32.00 Locally). Look forward to seeing Hedley progress.

Thx Tony, next time your up, gimme a call.

Thx Johnno, If he ever comes back to me with an option of a black seal, I'll let you know. Just steer clear of the pinch weld crap some are selling as a replacement as it doesn't sit right on the door frame.

Blew the glow plug fuse the other day when I moved Ralph to put the camper trailer away, just had to take it for a drive to make sure it was alright after I changed the fuse;) (probably held it on too long). Going to pull the drain plug off the gearbox and transfer case on the weekend and see if how much oil is in there, as well as try and adjust the 2nd gear stop if I have time, A couple of times now I could have actually used 2nd gear if I could find it, mostly 1,3,4 get me out of trouble though.

Cheers Ian

harry

29th January 2014, 07:43 PM

don't mention 2nd gear!

ezyrama

30th January 2014, 01:18 PM

don't mention 2nd gear!

That's OK, mines gone AWOL too!

Phil B

14th February 2014, 02:26 PM

Ian,

Thanks for this great thread.
I have really enjoyed reading your progress.
Ralph is a really great looking vehicle that will now last another life time, thanks to you.
Regards,
Phil

ezyrama

14th March 2014, 10:26 AM

Hi All
Finally got a chance to pull the top off of Ralph's gearbox last night and try to find that elusive 2nd gear. After pulling the hole top off, I realised that I only needed to pull the small top plate off to get to the 2nd gear stop. :oops2: At least it gave me a chance to have a look into how the mech's work and also to see that the oil level was about 40-50mm below the fill plug. I went for a walk down the back shed on a hunch and found a full tin of Golden Fleece XEP90 Gear oil which was given to me from my late Father (Thx Dad) who got it from his mate (Uncle Harry) who owned a Golden Fleece Service Station and then changed to a Caltex back in the 70's and 80's. I took the top off the tin and it was still sealed tight, put some in but got called away so tonight's job is to put it all back together and set the gap on the stop (0.5mm) and hopefully I will have 2nd gear again.:arms::arms: Will let you know how I get on. Avagoodweekend all!

Cheers Ian

Johnno1969

14th March 2014, 05:16 PM

It only seems right to put vintage oil into a vintage car, Ian.

Thanks for that post - the Golden Fleece logo brought back memories. Funny how things disappear from the landscape and consciousness. I guess all things go the same way eventually: Golden Fleece, AMOCO, The British Empire etc etc etc...

I look forward to seeing how 2nd gear behaves itself.

John

harry

14th March 2014, 05:28 PM

So, when was the retest date of that oil?

I buy a gallon tub of aircraft grease and it has a retest date 12 months on!

I might have solved my 2nd gear problem with another gearbox, but I have dismantled my broken box and can show the multiple problems in it if you want to see it

scanfor

14th March 2014, 06:47 PM

ezyrama

15th March 2014, 08:20 AM

Yep, I want to see what went wrong Harry.

Me too Harry, i have set up the 2nd gear stop but still cant always get it. Got to fix an exhaust leak today so i dont gas us out on the way to the yatala drive in trip next weekend. I might have to start searching for a six cylinder gearbox me thinks.
Cheers Ian

ezyrama

15th March 2014, 08:22 AM

Yep, I want to see what went wrong Harry.

Hey mate
Hows the car coming along.

ezyrama

15th March 2014, 08:24 AM

harry

15th March 2014, 07:04 PM

I do have my gearbox totally dismantled, so maybe interesting for those that have series vehicles

ezyrama

18th March 2014, 03:22 PM

I'll take you up on that Harry.
Ralph is getting modifications and repairs to the exhaust system today, taking the tail pipe out of the PTO hole, moving the muffler back a bit and re-routing the tailpipe to where it should come out and also replace a leaking flange gasket. I might be able to roll the back window up without getting gassed out now. I ordered some new door pins to rectify the dropped drivers door and also new front parker light as they are getting so hot, the pins on the globes are melting the housings and the globes are popping out. They are only 2 watt globes but I will replace them with LED globes to rectify the problem. Ordered my new personalised number plates as well which I'll post a photo of next week when they arrive. Rewired the glow plug power as well as I inadvertently mounted the in line fuse up against the bulkhead with is a pain the bum to get too, so now it's down at the battery where it should be. I am not blowing glow plug fuses anymore either which is a relief. Might have had a problem in the old fuse holder maybe. Can anyone tell me if there are any differences, other than the bell housing on the 6cyl gearbox as I am going to have to eventually rebuild it so 2nd gear is not so much of a hit or miss affair and where are the best places to get parts for it?

scanfor

18th March 2014, 10:34 PM

Count me in too. Very keen for a look-see.

harry

19th March 2014, 05:16 PM

[QUOTE= where are the best places to get parts for it?[/QUOTE]

I went through the parts list in the manual cd which I got from dave can do it shop on this forum [dave owns the aulro forum and is 'incisor' on here]

once I had identified all the parts I thought dodgy motors had buggered and others that I thought were needed, I went and searched by part no.
all the parts I identified are available through many of the land rover parts suppliers, my search was quite easy, but time consuming.
various suppliers like LR Fasteners, LRDirect, DLS [one of my favourite suppliers] Land rover workshop, to name a few.

I did find a complete gearbox recently and it is fitted, have run it in the car without the prop shafts connected and all seems good.

when my back allows me, I will connect the shafts and get the seat box back in and drive it, then I will know if the box is really ok.

scanfor

19th March 2014, 07:19 PM

Harry, let me know if you need a hand while your back is crook. I can also bring a small apprentice who is always keen to get greasy.

harry

19th March 2014, 08:55 PM

Thanks for that, I should be ok by the weekend and get it sorted

I have the broken box onthe bench, so not hard to show the problems

ezyrama

21st March 2014, 04:30 PM

Thx Harry, I will have to organise a time to come down and have a look very shortly. Got the new plates for Ralph today. Will put them on tonight. Also have an old LandRover, Eurovox stereo from my old Discovery 1 that I found in the shed last night, so I am buying a couple of speakers on the way home and will fit it all up (dunno where I will put the head unit yet) tomorrow for a run up to the Drive In @ Yatala tomorrow night.

ezyrama

21st March 2014, 05:31 PM

Johnno1969

21st March 2014, 06:13 PM

Great stuff! Ralph looks magnificent.

scanfor

21st March 2014, 06:32 PM

Sweet!

Cobber

23rd March 2014, 09:38 PM

What they said, it looks sharp. And love the plates! Well done :BigThumb:

Johnno1969

23rd March 2014, 09:54 PM

Hey Ian - if you don't mind me asking, what did it cost for those plates? I have never really bothered with custom plates, but I have been wondering if it is worthwhile getting some good ol' black and white plates for my vehicle when it's back on the road. Current rego number would be fine - just in black and white.

Cheers,

John

ezyrama

24th March 2014, 11:23 AM

Thanks mate, pretty happy with the outcome. I think it was more arse than class that I got the combo I wanted. The plates were $445 + a credit card fee, a bit expensive but something I wanted to do.

Johnno1969

24th March 2014, 05:10 PM

Thanks Ian. I'm not sure if I'll stretch my project to black and white plates, but it's good to have that info.

John

ezyrama

4th April 2014, 06:50 PM

Just loaded Ralph up for our annual Series Skinfull Weekend at Rosevale pub. 50km from where we start but it takes about 6 hours of driving to get there followed by a great country pub dinner and copious amounts of refreshments and entertainment! Should be a great weekend. Looking forward to engaging low range for the first time!!
Woo hoo!
Cheers Ian

Johnno1969

4th April 2014, 08:34 PM

Good stuff Ian. Sounds brilliant.

Looking forward to hearing about Ralph's latest adventure.

John

ezyrama

9th April 2014, 10:21 AM

Had a great time cruising through the back blocks of Beaudesert, Amberley, Rosewood and thru to Rosevale. Had to lock the front hubs in a few time on all the dirt tracks after drifting around a few corners at speed:burnrubber:. Set up camp with a tarp and a swag, utilising the tailgate as a kitchen table. Had a terrific dinner at the pub, followed by a few more bottles of red at the table and around the camp fire. Cruised home Sunday morning (Ralph went like a freight train) to the wife who wanted to go for a cruise on the bikes, so it was back out again and we ended up near where from whence I had just returned (or 20 km away):p. Had a nice lunch at a cafe, were about to get back on the bikes to come home when a storm as big as I have seen for quite a while hit with a vengeance. Waited out the storm with a couple of coffee's and cruised home following the storm but not actually riding in it which was a stroke of luck. All in all, a very enjoyable weekend away and I was very impressed how Ralph went.

ezyrama

23rd April 2014, 08:14 AM

Morning All

I noticed the brake fluid was down a bit last week after the series skinfull trip. Topped it up, cleaned under, over and inside after all the dust from the trip but found the fluid level was down again last night. Looks like the rear drivers wheel cylinder is leaking. Just ordered a set of rears from the brake guy next door to work. Will have to replace them this week and I want to check the rear diff oil but there is no fill plug on it, only a drain plug, will have to go through the breather hose port to refill it after draining it I suppose. We have another club trip on the 10th of next month cruising the Condamine River Road, camping at Queen Mary Falls which should be a bit of fun. Told the wife she will have to take her Wellington's on that one as there are 14 river crossings. Attached a clip of the drive we will do (not my video, but I will try and do one)
14 Crossings, Condamine River. - YouTube

JDNSW

23rd April 2014, 08:39 AM

Morning All
......... Will have to replace them this week and I want to check the rear diff oil but there is no fill plug on it, only a drain plug, will have to go through the breather hose port to refill it after draining it I suppose........

The rear diff should have a brass fill/level plug on the RH side of the nose of the diff - have you looked there?

Some front diffs do not have this plug, as they have the level plug in the front of the axle housing. If it is missing on yours, then one of these front diffs is fitted.

John

ezyrama

23rd April 2014, 08:52 AM

The rear diff should have a brass fill/level plug on the RH side of the nose of the diff - have you looked there?

Some front diffs do not have this plug, as they have the level plug in the front of the axle housing. If it is missing on yours, then one of these front diffs is fitted.

John

Hi John

I have looked all around the diff a few times now. I cannot find anything that would resemble a fill plug, even looked for a bolt that might double up as one, but nothing. The front one has a plug in plain view though. I have tried to upload a video of the diff housing I did on the phone with the photo of the housing (attached) but it keeps failing. Will try and upload it to somewhere else and attach a link.

Ian

scanfor

23rd April 2014, 10:17 AM

Obviously you put the rear axle back in upside-down when you did the resto Ian. Sheeesh.:D

ezyrama

23rd April 2014, 11:04 AM

Video of the diff housing. Sorry for the shakey content.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p82LTFAFGzk&feature=youtu.be

ezyrama

23rd April 2014, 11:12 AM

Obviously you put the rear axle back in upside-down when you did the resto Ian. Sheeesh.:D

For that smartarse comment, I't's your shout on Saturday night!!:p

scanfor

23rd April 2014, 12:35 PM

Me and my big mouth........:angel:

Timj

23rd April 2014, 03:00 PM

Hi Ian,

Looking at that video it does appear that you don't have a filling hole. Usually it would be on the nose of the diff as John said. Some of mine have both the nose and the cover at the rear so I just pick the one that is easier to get to :).

How did you fill it last time? Oil must have got in there somehow. You might need to look for a diff centre that has the fill plug on the nose and replace it. You could drill into the rear cover in the right place and tap one in as well but you would have to do that with the diff out anyway to get rid of the swarf.

Tim.

Landy Smurf

23rd April 2014, 03:21 PM

I'm baffled, will keep having a bit of a look though.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/345.jpg (http://s948.photobucket.com/user/tonysmera/media/land%20rover/diffs_zps6b874e38.png.html)

harry

23rd April 2014, 07:38 PM

it looks to me that you have a diff centre from a later type land rover, perhaps a rangy, so what is the diff ratio?
I have the same problem with a later diff centre, no fill plug, as the early diff had the fill plug on the diff centre, in later type rangy diffs the fill plug moved to the rear cover.
to fill mine, I just remove the axle and fill through there.
the diff only needs enough oil in it to be level with the bottom of the drive shaft, the crown wheel will move the oil around as required.
overfilling is usually shown as oil departing the scene through the pinion shaft seal or an axle seal.
I wouldn't try to fit a fill plug to the rear cover as the metal is too thin.
a fill plug could be tapped in at the spot shown on the centre in the drawings, if you carefully drill and tap with stiff grease on the drill and tap and work carefully.
and if doing it that way I would then still flush with petrol, turps , kero or any other free flowing hydrocarbon to get any remainder out.
it isn't hard to get it right without dropping swarf in the diff housing, and a good flush after removes anything to worry about.

or take the diff centre out and do it on the bench.
I might have the right size tap.
should do it to mine as well......

schuy1

23rd April 2014, 09:44 PM

It is definitely a later model diff center as harry says. The casting hints at rangerover. Fill via an axle tube!
Cheers Scott

ezyrama

30th April 2014, 11:05 AM

Thanks for the info guys, much appreciated. I was wondering if one of the bolts that holds the diff together could be used, (looks like a bolt at 18 seconds on the video) and it's half way up for a fill level as well. I will pull it out on Saturday and have a look. Harry, Scott. No idea what the ratio's are sorry. One good score after Flano's on the weekend Harry, Busman found a reconditioned 2a gearbox, suffix B in Brisvegas from a deceased estate. I managed to pick it up for $200. I will have to make time now to replace mine after I check out that I'm happy with the new one. Found the brake fluid leak on the rear passenger wheel cylinder, so that's the Saturday morning job at the moment.
Ian

ezyrama

6th May 2014, 06:29 PM

Hi all
Got the brakes sorted, replaced the rear wheel cylinders only to find the clutch connection on the botton of the fluid tin leaking as well. Pulled it out to find a metal washer under the 1/4" flare connection. Replaced it with a copper washer, bled and all good. Drained the diffs and refilled them ( the rear thru the breather) turned out it was a bit low and the front was a bit short too. Got a trip up condamine river rd this weekend with an overnight stay at Queen Mary Falls, so it will be a good run for Ralph. 14 river crossings, lunch at the local pub. Should be fun.
Cheers Ian

ezyrama

7th May 2014, 04:59 PM

Ended up fitting some door gasket for the door tops today, at least it should slow down the water ingress so the holes in the floor can get it away faster than it comes in ;). I lost a bloody wiper arm today, damn things were supplied by a local,they didnt fit, i had to modified them to fit after they wouldnt return calls and emails after promising to rectify, now the passenger side unit went for a skid down the road somewhere this morning. This time I will get some from the UK
at a fraction of the cost this set cost. I need something else i thought of the other day but ill be stuffed
If i can remember what!! Oh well, hopefully it doesnt rain on swmbo,s side of the car this weekend :)

Phil B

8th May 2014, 05:08 AM

ezyrama

9th May 2014, 08:58 AM

Did you lose the whole arm or just the blade?
I had a similar problem with new type blades on my S3 when it threw a blade onto the road, in the rain of course!
Apparently you are supposed to modify the arm, really annoying if you don't know
Regards
Phil

I lost the whole thing Phil. Didn't even see or hear it escape. I found a set today on Paddocks site for about 10 quid but I need some other stuff so it should be worthwhile to get them out here. I had to modify the arm by shortening it and re-riveting it to the spline arm as they crossed the split in the screen by about 40 mm.
Regards Ian

Cobber

9th May 2014, 06:30 PM

When I got new wiper blades (before I decided to pull it apart) I had to shorten mine too. They work/worked a treat, but haven't fallen off yet :D

Johnno1969

9th May 2014, 09:41 PM

Tex instruments in the UK is really good for lovely stainless steel arms and blades.

67hardtop

10th May 2014, 06:52 PM

I got mine from gary at clr 4wd parts from ebay Ph. 02 47542642 or mob 0412663751. fitted perfectly with no mods at all.:cool:

Cheers Rod:wasntme:

ezyrama

12th May 2014, 09:56 AM

Thanks for the tips guys. Got some new ones on the way. Had a fun time on the trip on the weekend, Ralph developed a fuel starvation problem, at first we thought it was the sediment filter as we bypassed it and it went away but came back an hour or so later. This time we blew the fuel back into the tank and it was good from there on, so it looks like I have some crud in the bottom of the tank. Got to Aratula for a coffee on Sunday morning, pulled out and heard a noise under the bonnet. Turns out the water pump seal has let go. Dumped some bars leak into it, topped it up and had to stop every 15 mins to check and top up. Cruised home at 50 mph but it only seems to leak when I am stopped, I assume the tension when the motor is revving closes up the leak. Looks like I have another job to do this weekend now. The list just keeps growing. Going down Condamine river rd, luckily I was in front as it was a mission to try and stop Ralph after the 2nd crossing (out of 14 crossings) with a gut full of water in the drums, the wife got air a few times in the front seat which was fun to see the look on her face:o:o.
Cheers Ian