Tracing the coolant leak

[PaulP38a]

Having fun pulling the top of the engine apart today/tonight, and having a few challenges along the way...

Aim of this project is to find and repair a suspect coolant leak at the back of engine. I've tried to pinpoint the leak using one of those little mirrors on a stick, and even tried a home-made endoscope made from a webcam on a long stick ;)

So far have only managed to remove the upper manifold/plenum chamber and throttle body, rocker covers, drain the cooling system, and remove the drive belt tensioner so I could try to remove the alternator.

Following instructions on Rave as much as possible. Managed to avoid removing the viscous fan as I didn't have LR tools 12-93 and 94, or a 36mm spanner.

Removed the two bolts securing the alternator to the mounting bracket, but the damn thing still won't budge. Seems like there is some kind of collar holding it in place. See pic below.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

The staining is where I've sprayed a silicon spray to attempt to loosen it up.
Any suggestions please?

[p38arover]

Following instructions on Rave as much as possible. Managed to avoid removing the viscous fan as I didn't have LR tools 12-93 and 94, or a 36mm spanner.

I just use a big shifter and a hammer.


Removed the two bolts securing the alternator to the mounting bracket, but the damn thing still won't budge. Seems like there is some kind of collar holding it in place. See pic below.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/



Have you tried levering the alternator up with a screw driver. They come out easily enough.

The collar is in the bracket and has probably been pressed back into the alternator mouning lug.

[PaulP38a]

I just use a big shifter and a hammer.

Have you tried levering the alternator up with a screw driver. They come out easily enough.

The collar is in the bracket and has probably been pressed back into the alternator mouning lug.

Thanks Ron... lever with a big screwdriver didn't work. Based on what you've said, I'll try to push the collar outwards by levering it from behind with a sharp screwdriver.

[mike 90 RR]

Use a electric heat gun and Heat the Ali part of the bracket .... this will expand it and loosen the grip on the collar ... Grab the collar with multi grip's and give it a sharp hit

Fan ...
12 inch crescent ... Add weight (Pull) & Hit the side of crescent in the direction that the fan turns

Mike

[andrew e]

hit the alternator on a solid part with a lump of wood to loosen it. it comes straight out. Paul is that alternator 130 or 150? i know HSEs got the 150 and D2s got the 130, but i dont know what the 4.0 p38s got.

your coolant leak is coming from your crank. it wont go away until you fit a 4.6 :D

Andy

[PaulP38a]

Use a electric heat gun and Heat the Ali part of the bracket .... this will expand it and loosen the grip on the collar ... Grab the collar with multi grip's and give it a sharp hit

Fan ...
12 inch crescent ... Add weight (Pull) & Hit the side of crescent in the direction that the fan turns
Thanks Mike, got the alternator off quite easily once I applied a bit of forward pressure to the collars via multi-grips.

Have managed to avoid pulling off the fan so far, but have noted your tip if I need to.


Paul is that alternator 130 or 150? i know HSEs got the 150 and D2s got the 130, but i dont know what the 4.0 p38s got.
150


your coolant leak is coming from your crank. it wont go away until you fit a 4.6 :D
Noted and stored for future reference ;)
Actually, it seems that the coolant leak is coming from two places so far:
- at the rear valley gasket, along with a bit of oil
- at the R/H rear head gasket

I'm keeping a photo record of what I'm doing at Engine Refresh (http://cordwellis.com/gallery/main.php/v/99RR/Engine/)

Current problem is getting the last 2 (of 8) 8mm bolts off the R/H exhaust manifold heat shield. The one at the bottom is rusted/rounded so badly I spent 2 fruitless hours tonight on it and it still won't budge. It sits just above the flange near the R/H cat and I can't even get a drill or blade to it to butcher it off. It's the one opposite the one shown in the pic below (near the WD-40 stain)
http://cordwellis.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=379&g2_serialNumber=1
Any suggestions... please?

The other painful 8mm bolt is at the R/H front and under the heat shield. The steering intermediate shaft is in the way. I might have to remove the shaft yet (like Rave says) but I don't want to touch the steering if I don't really need to.

Looks like I won't be driving up to your place next weekend Andy... :(

So, who knows of a good place to source (all?) engine gaskets, coolant hoses and replacement hose clamps that can get it delivered to Canberra by next weekend?

cheers, Paul.

[eb220]

Paul,

"4.6, 4.6, 4.6!!!" I'm sure if you asked nicely Andy might even have one there for you.

How rounded is the nut? Are the edges knocked off, or is it really round? I might know of a fix for you. Give me a call.

As for your gaskets etc, give Gary Gjerde a call on 47542642, or 0412663751, he might be able to help. When I have bought items from Gary, I have received them in 2 days, 3 tops.

Chris

[mike 90 RR]

Current problem is getting the last 2 (of 8) 8mm bolts off the R/H exhaust manifold heat shield.


I don't know exactly where your heat shield is ... But a thought ...

Would it be easier to just undo all the bolts on the exhaust manifold, and remove it as a whole section off the motor ??

Would leave more room to work in the engine bay :)

If it is possible ...be aware that you will most probably break the studs that connect the "exhaust pipe to the manifold" ... These are very easy, to drill and tap in new ones when the manifold is out and on your work bench




Mike
;)

[2door grover]

for the heat shield you just need a set of tin snips :D

and you can't get the exhaust manifold of with out taking off the heat shield.

[PaulP38a]

Thanks for the suggestions blokes.

In praise of EAS and manual bypass kits
Being the clever fellow that I am ;) I had lowered the car to it's bump stops to make it easier to work in the engine bay (I'm short too). Trying to get a bit more room to move around under the car to fiddle around with this pesky heat shiled bolt might have been a problem had I not installed an EAS manual bypass kit... I was able to connect up an air compressor and pump the car up about 15cm to make under car access a lot easier.

Just another reason why I love my EAS :cool:

Back to the bolt saga...

Tried tin snips but can't get enough purchase with the two small snips that I've got... perhaps with bigger, longer ones it would work.

Had a go with a hack saw blade... again, not a lot of room to move and very little progress.

Also had a go with a long thin drill bit to try to weaken the shield enough to break it.

On the bolt itself, 8mm (6 and/or 12 edge) socket just spins, 5/16" socket tries to grip but then slips, 7mm won't fit.

Will head off to the tool shop tomorrow for a longer set of snips, and one of those funky Metrinch gadgets as suggested by eb220.

The 2nd last bolt, under the heat shield and toward the front, was easier than expected

Haven't even started on the LH exhaust manifold yet. Figured I would do the more difficult one first and then the LH one should be easy... please:eek:

Oh well, this is a good learning experience and keeps me out of the missus' way inside the house :p

Spoke with 3 suppliers for replacement gaskets, hoses and bolts. Will decide which one I go with when the 3rd supplier quote comes in, hopefully tomorrow.

Appears there is a "VRS kit" which will give me all the gaskets for the top of the engine, but no kit of hoses which I will have to spec individually.

Cheers, Paul.

[andrew e]

Paul,

"4.6, 4.6, 4.6!!!" I'm sure if you asked nicely Andy might even have one there for you.


Chris

i only have 3 good ones left :D. The other one has a suspect slipped liner. :(

Paul, can you bend/brake the corner of the heat shield off with a pait of vice grips (bend it back and forth many times) or is access a problem?

Or is it possible to remove the head with the exhaust manifold in place? undo the head bolts, and the bolts on the cat/lower exhaust manifold, and lift it all out?

Andy

[p38arover]

The steering intermediate shaft is in the way. I might have to remove the shaft yet (like Rave says) but I don't want to touch the steering if I don't really need to..


Remove the shaft. I do, every time.

However, do this before finally levering the shaft off.

Ensure the wheels are straight and the steering wheel is centred.

Remove the ignition key, lock the steering wheel, and keep the key well away. You do not want that wheel being turned as it may damage the spiral cassette (exxy!).

You might find accessing the heat shield bolts easier if you remove the wheel well liners (easy to do).

[PaulP38a]

i only have 3 good ones left :D. The other one has a suspect slipped liner. :(

My preference is to stick with the 4.0 at the moment. You know how I like to keep my cars as original as possible :D


Paul, can you bend/brake the corner of the heat shield off with a pait of vice grips (bend it back and forth many times) or is access a problem?
Access is a bit better now that I've raised the car off it's bump stops but not good enough to wiggle the vice grips around. I'll see if I can find some interesting gadgets at the tool shop tomorrow.


Or is it possible to remove the head with the exhaust manifold in place? undo the head bolts, and the bolts on the cat/lower exhaust manifold, and lift it all out?
Hmm, maybe. I'll go have a poke around the engine bay to see what is still in the way. Rave says I should remove the steering intermediate shaft and loosen up the bolt at the top of the shock tower, but have managed to avoid both so far.
Cheers, Paul.

[PaulP38a]

Remove the shaft. I do, every time.

However, do this before finally levering the shaft off.

Ensure the wheels are straight and the steering wheel is centred.

Remove the ignition key, lock the steering wheel, and keep the key well away. You do not want that wheel being turned as it may damage the spiral cassette (exxy!).

You might find accessing the heat shield bolts easier if you remove the wheel well liners (easy to do).

Good advice Ron - Thanks, I'll do that if I take the shaft off.

For a fleeting moment last night while I had my hands in unnatural positions around the heat shield I though about removing the wheel well liner. That bolt would probably have been off yesterday if I had listened to myself at the time. Now that you've said it, it will be the next thing I do. :cool:
Cheers, Paul.

[PaulP38a]

Removed the RH wheel arch liner (thanks Ron) and got a much better view of the remnants of the offending bolt
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Even the 8mm Metrinch socket (thanks eb220) wouldn't budge this after I had butchered it so badly.

Resorted to a long set of tin snips and a 5mm HS drill bit and here is the result.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Cheers, Paul.

[p38arover]

They are a pig of a thing to remove. I soak them in Penetrene for days before trying to remove them.

[HSE30]

Removed the RH wheel arch liner (thanks Ron) and got a much better view of the remnants of the offending bolt
http://cordwellis.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1266&g2_serialNumber=1

Even the 8mm Metrinch socket (thanks eb220) wouldn't budge this after I had butchered it so badly.

Resorted to a long set of tin snips and a 5mm HS drill bit and here is the result.
http://cordwellis.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1268&g2_serialNumber=1

Cheers, Paul.

The only way I have got these loose when they are rusted is soak in WD get a small pair of vice grips on the outer side and the socket on the bolt. Usually they give in.If not gas axe out and a spot of mig to re-assemble.
Regards Russell.

[WBHSE]

Having fun pulling the top of the engine apart today/tonight, and having a few challenges along the way...

Aim of this project is to find and repair a suspect coolant leak at the back of engine. I've tried to pinpoint the leak using one of those little mirrors on a stick, and even tried a home-made endoscope made from a webcam on a long stick ;)

So far have only managed to remove the upper manifold/plenum chamber and throttle body, rocker covers, drain the cooling system, and remove the drive belt tensioner so I could try to remove the alternator.

Following instructions on Rave as much as possible. Managed to avoid removing the viscous fan as I didn't have LR tools 12-93 and 94, or a 36mm spanner.

Removed the two bolts securing the alternator to the mounting bracket, but the damn thing still won't budge. Seems like there is some kind of collar holding it in place. See pic below.
http://www.cordwell.net/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/RR-Engine-072.JPG

The staining is where I've sprayed a silicon spray to attempt to loosen it up.
Any suggestions please?
use a largise screwdriver or prybar betwwen the alt and the alloy bracket, it will come up, even try tapping it downwards with a soft mallet first, it will move even tho you will think you are going to break something

[PaulP38a]

RH heat shield is finally off, as is the steering intermediate shaft, RH exhaust manifold, rocker shaft and pushrods. :D

Think I've located the main coolant leak - see pic below
http://cordwellis.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1298&g2_serialNumber=1
Explains the nasty staining on the starter motor too.

Here's the view from below, taken before I started to pull the top of the engine apart.
http://cordwellis.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=159&g2_serialNumber=1

I suspect that I've got a leak behind the firewall also, probably the heater o-rings as I've noticed a few drops of coolant in the drivers footwell, but this pic below, underneath driver's door body panel, is a real worry.
http://cordwellis.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=161&g2_serialNumber=1


Decided that I had enough for tonight when I broke the 1/2" to 3/8" socket adapter trying to undo the first cylinder head bolt.
http://cordwellis.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1304&g2_serialNumber=1
Off to the tool shop again tomorrow for a stronger set of socket adapters, and/or a 16mm on 1/2" socket to avoid the need for an adapter on the head bolts.

Cheers, Paul.

[andrew e]

The best ones for head bolts are the black 6 sided sockets. I cant remember what size (too much stanley red...)

Andy

[eb220]

Looking at the spark plug above the red box, seems your in for a new set of leads.

I have a set of Summit Racing 8 or 8.8 mm, (can't remember which) sitting here if you want them.

Chris

[WBHSE]

on the cyl head bolts dont bother with anything but a 1/2 inch drive single hex impact socket, i prefer 5/8 but 16mm will bo ok to, ive seen many people give themselves un neeeded heartache breaking tools and rounded head bolts, i use a snap-on socket myself with a breaker bar and extensions to suit to loosen, and have done more engine rebuilds on these things than any one person should have to (17 years dealer tech) , im still in therapy after not touching one in 4 years!!!
dont forget to use new cyl head bolts, lightly oiled, and torque all bolts to 20nm, 15 lbf ft, and then tighten all bolts 90 deg and then a further 90 deg. just use white out or something to mark the bolts after you torque them and then the 90 + 90 , its easy to forget which ones you have tightened and those you havent

[PaulP38a]

Looking at the spark plug above the red box, seems your in for a new set of leads.

I have a set of Summit Racing 8 or 8.8 mm, (can't remember which) sitting here if you want them.

Chris

Yeah, that lead was a pain to remove and I will be in need of a new set of leads. Let me know what you want for the set you have, thanks.

Cheers, Paul.

[PaulP38a]

RH head is off!!

Went to the big boys toy shop and got a couple of socket sets, plus 2 of those black 16mm 1/2" drive sockets, and a 600mm breaker bar. In retrospect I should have got a bigger breaker bar... my back is still sore... those bolts are a real pain. For a couple of them I had to climb up on the bull bar and wedge my right foot against the hoop on the bar to get enough leverage to shift the bolts. :o

Undid the bolts according to the order specified in Rave...
http://cordwellis.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1354&g2_serialNumber=1

Underside of removed RH head, showing leak at bottom right (rear right bottom on engine)
http://cordwellis.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1324&g2_serialNumber=1

close up of leak location
http://cordwellis.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1326&g2_serialNumber=1

pic of block
http://cordwellis.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1332&g2_serialNumber=1

and close up of leak location. I think the oil staining on the LHS was me as I was removing the head.
http://cordwellis.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1334&g2_serialNumber=1

Lots more pics at my Engine Refresh photo journal (http://cordwellis.com/gallery/main.php/v/99RR/Engine/)... about 160 now :o. Eventually they will be moved to paulp38a.com when I have the time to sort it out.

Cheers, Paul.

[WBHSE]

while you have the heads of, remove one of the exhaust valves and see if it has the revised spec ones fitted, the original types were prone to carbon build up and causing valve sticking resulting in missfire and or rough running. youve gone this far so you may as well. since it looks like you have acess to rave its on there under dicovery or range rover 12/12/96EN TECHNICAL BULLETINS. or do a word search on exhaust valves

[PaulP38a]

How much easier is it to get the LH head off than the RH head!! :o

It took less than an hours work to get the LH heat shield, exhaust manifold, rockers and head off. I'm sure there are moany of you who could have done it in less, but I was pretty impressed with myself. The only hitch was that I didn't unbolt the engine wiring harness at the back of the head first as I thought I had already done it a few days ago.

The 7 x 8mm bolts holding the heat shield in place came out easily and I could do all of them from above the car.

I could remove the exhaust manifold from the engine bay before the head was removed, giving more room to manouvere... unlike the RH manifold.

The head bolts undid quite easily as I could lean over the front of the car and pull the 600mm breaker bar towards me rather than pushing as I had to do for the RH head.

No signs of leaks on this head, at least to my untrained eye.
http://cordwellis.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1372&g2_serialNumber=1

The pistons tops look pretty ordinary though. Is this flakey black stuff normal, and what should I use to clean them up?
http://cordwellis.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1384&g2_serialNumber=1

I've got one of those re-honing attachments to clean up the cylinders. Should I?

I've also got degreaser and gasket remover spray to clean the other bits. It did a great job on the rocker covers....
http://cordwellis.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1396&g2_serialNumber=1
and this...
http://cordwellis.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1394&g2_serialNumber=1
Is the breather supposed to have a hole in it or does it work off pressure? I couldn't get it to move and there doesn't seem to be a hole. Wonder if it is blocked?

My cleaning efforts so far have been using degreaser, gasket removal spray (for non-painted really stubborn gunk inside the rocker covers), heat gun, water, WD-40, soft-ish wire brush, scouring pads and rags.

I don't have a half 44 gallon drum to use for an oil/diesel bath so have to make do with buckets and those plastic storage bins... :(

More cleaning tips would be much appreciated.

Suppose I'd better get around to ordering the new gaskets, hoses, clamps, bolts etc on Monday... :o Last week was hectic at work and I didn't get time to review the quotes properly. This week is going to be worse... plus 2 days in Perth again. Love Perth... hate the flights from/to Canberra.

Cheers, Paul.

[mike 90 RR]

Paul

Clean what ever you like ... But what ever you do ... DO NOT remove, or clean the carbon on the side of the bore at the TOP /// This your carbon seal for the rings when the piston is in the TDC firing position

To clean the tops of the piston ... Turn the crank & put each one in the TDC position to clean .. use a Vacuum cleaner to get any crud out from between the piston & bore // use a soft wire brush // No cleaning fluid agents

Mike

[PaulP38a]

Thank you Mike. It looked like that tapered carbon ring around the top of the cylinders was supposed to be there. Glad you confirmed it for me. :D

Now for the really noob question... can I crank the engine to get the pistons to TDC just by putting the transmission in neutral and rotating "something" with a spanner without dismantling the engine any further?

Cheers, Paul.

[PaulP38a]

Now for the really noob question... can I crank the engine to get the pistons to TDC just by putting the transmission in neutral and rotating "something" with a spanner without dismantling the engine any further?

ahem, never mind... just looked at Rave and found the crankshaft pulley below the water pump. Maybe I will have to take that damn viscous fan off after all...

[mike 90 RR]

ahem, never mind... damn viscous fan off after all...

Naaaa ... You should be able to turn the crank over by hand ... With all the heads off ... there's no force's stopping it, and making it hard to turn :)

Mike

[mike 90 RR]

The pistons tops look pretty ordinary though. Is this flakey black stuff normal,

By any chance are you starting this car up / warming it till it gets to temp / driving a short distance / never reving past 2000 ??



I've got one of those re-honing attachments to clean up the cylinders. Should I?

NO ... put that tool back in the cupboard




Suppose I'd better get around to ordering the new gaskets, hoses, clamps, bolts etc on Monday...

Take the heads to a recon joint and have them test the face for straightness .... They will most probably need facing, as they are Alloy heads



... plus 2 days in Perth again. Love Perth...

Don't get toooo excited ... It's rain rain rain


Mike
:)

[WBHSE]

you should be able to turn the engine crankshaft even with the fan on, just use a short 2" ext on a 15/16 socket with a ratchet, it should fit in behind the fan, as said earlier, no heads on so it will move easilly. the plastic filling on the breather tube is normal, just use whatever you used on the insides of the rocker covers to clean them up on it. i like 101 degreaser myself if you can find it, usually only sold in the trade to detailers etc

[PaulP38a]

By any chance are you starting this car up / warming it till it gets to temp / driving a short distance / never reving past 2000 ??


kinda... a lot of short trips less than 10km during the week. Don't usually let it stand for long, usually just drive off and let it warm up on the road.


NO ... put that tool back in the cupboard
good, it scared me a little :o



Take the heads to a recon joint and have them test the face for straightness .... They will most probably need facing, as they are Alloy heads
Andrew E is sending me down a set of heads that he's had reco'd and I'm giving him my old ones plus some cash... sounds fair to me :D

Mostly inspected and cleaned stuff today. Tappets seem to have flat bottoms and the camshaft lobes are curvy.

Lots of elbow grease, dirty rags, scouring pads, degreaser, WD-40 and water spray to clean up the front of the engine.

Scouring pad (used those green plastic ones, lightly and in circular motion), razor blade (very gently), vacuum and rags to clean the piston heads.
http://cordwellis.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1426&g2_serialNumber=1
Not spotless, but a lot better than when I started.

Current state of the garage with bits everywhere. Poor little Freelander has to sleep outside... note the 33" muddies blocking the door :p
http://cordwellis.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1422&g2_serialNumber=1

And the Rangie with a blanket over the exposed engine... not to keep it warm :) but because a clothes dryer is nearby and I don't like the idea of all the fluff getting blown in to the exposed bits.
http://cordwellis.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1424&g2_serialNumber=1

Cheers, Paul.

[PaulP38a]

you should be able to turn the engine crankshaft even with the fan on, just use a short 2" ext on a 15/16 socket with a ratchet, it should fit in behind the fan, as said earlier, no heads on so it will move easilly. the plastic filling on the breather tube is normal, just use whatever you used on the insides of the rocker covers to clean them up on it. i like 101 degreaser myself if you can find it, usually only sold in the trade to detailers etc

Yeah thanks WBHSE - the long, offset 15/16 spanner did the trick no problems at all.

I've been using pump pack spray degreaser (forgot the brand - white pump pack, black/yellow/red label) and CRC Gasket Stripper for the difficult stuff.

Had another go at removing the fan but I'm obviously doing something wrong despite the attempts of people here trying to explain it to me...

As shown in the pic below, I was able to successfully remove the pulley off the water pump... doh! :eek: not quite what I was after...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Ok, so I've got the 12" shifter on the fan shaft and it looks like I should be rotating it towards me (on LHS of engine). What/where do I secure another spanner/socket/tool to give me leverage? Or is it a matter of pushing the shifter (away) and pulling the fan (towards)?

Cheers, Paul.

[WBHSE]

i usually remove fan and cowling before i do anything else, so the belt is still on which helps, you can try using some sort of lever or large screwdriver between the pully and the pump to try to stop the pully from spinning, and then belt the shifter with a small sledge hammer or mallet, only recommend these two as they have larger than normal hammer area to hit the shifter with, you may need some one to hold the lever/screwdriver in posistion while you give the shifter a belt

[mike 90 RR]

Had another go at removing the fan but I'm obviously doing something wrong despite the attempts of people here trying to explain it to me...


http://cordwellis.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1418&g2_serialNumber=1

Ok, so I've got the 12" shifter on the fan shaft and it looks like I should be rotating it towards me (on LHS of engine). What/where do I secure another spanner/socket/tool to give me leverage? Or is it a matter of pushing the shifter (away) and pulling the fan (towards)?

Cheers, Paul.

Grab the fan belt ...rap it fully (Loop it) around the water pump pulley, then around the crank pully ... Get your son to pull / stretch the rest of the pulley as hard as he can / so its taunt

With your shifter, You turn the nut to loosen, in the direction that the fan normally turns when the motor runs .... So with the direction of the fan sorted .... Your son holding the belt so the pulley is locked up .... You pull on the shifter, with one hand, and then with the other hand ... HIT the side of the shifter to jar the nut loose (in the direction that the fan normally turns when the motor runs ) .... will take a couple of hits ... but will happen

Another Father & son bonding time :D


By the way ... The direction according to your photo, is to pull towards the drivers side to loosen .... It looks to be opposite to the RRC rotation /// Your fan appears to turn anticlockwise


Mike

[andrew e]

To remove the fan, put some of the bolts back in the water pump pulley, then hold one of them with the ring end of a 10mm combination spanner (ring at one end open at the other). Wedge the spanner against the center hub, where it will not interfere with the jaws of your 12" tool.

You may need to extend the 10mm spanner to get more leverage. You do this by getting another similar sized combination spanner (say 11mm) and put one of the open end jaws on the 10mm spanner, through the ring end of the 11mm, essentially extending it to twice the origional length.

I will try and take a photo tomorrow of me removing one.


Andy

[eb220]

Paul,

A couple of bits of 3ft and 4ft long bits of steel or alluminium pipe with a decent wall thickness (3mm+) will help.

Torque is your friend!!!!

Chris

[willem]

I've been watching this post with interest, Paul. I've done the same job three times on RRCs, and it is quite similar, though with some significant differences as well, mainly to do with removing the ancillary bits like the alternator etc.

A VRS kit (valve regrind set, IIRC) gives you all the gaskets, seals, clips etc that you need for a complete top end overhaul. This includes new head gaskets, valley cover gasket, exhaust flange gaskets, etc.

Just one tip - when you replace the exhaust manifolds, put the back bolt in first. Then gravity works for you and not against you.

Willem