steering shaft removal

[PaulP38a]

Am taking Ron's advice and removing the steering intermediate shaft so I can remove the exhaust manifold heat shield (another thread).

Followed Rave and removed the top bolt securing the shaft to the steering column. Also removed the bottom two bolts securing the shaft to UJ and steering box.

Rave says I should be able to slide the UJ up the spline of the shaft, but it won't.:mad: sprayed it with some silicon spray and tried to coax the split apart a little with a large screwdriver. Still not wanting to budge and I don't want to risk damaging it by using unnecessary force.

Suggestions please brainstrust ;)

[peacey]

Paul,

make shore wheels are straight, engage steering wheel lock, adjust steering wheel till you get movement.

[andrew e]

i do it the easy way.
1, remove the bolts in the shaft.
2, remove all 8 body mount bolts.
3, put forklift tines through side windows and lift body off.
4, steering shaft falls out then. :D

Andy

[PaulP38a]

i do it the easy way.
1, remove the bolts in the shaft.
2, remove all 8 body mount bolts.
3, put forklift tines through side windows and lift body off.
4, steering shaft falls out then. :D


Hah! even if I had a forklift at my disposal (mutters word beggining with B and ending in D in feeble attempt to avoid Ron's swear filter :wasntme:), it wouldn't fit in my garage and if it did I couldn't do it that way 'coz the back windows are closed and the battery disconnected... and I wouldn't want to break that nice new window/door that I got from you :D

Oh, and I got bitten by that battery disconnected issue a couple of days ago when I decided to pump up the EAS using the air compressor that I keep in the spare wheel well... "no power = no tailgate release". dropped the rear seats, removed the parcel shelf, forced the floor-door-flap-thingy open, did the contortionist twist up-around-down and managed to manouveur the compressor out of the hole.

We've gotta come up with a manual bypass for the tailgate release. I'd consider it a safety issue if I was an OH&S type. Instead, I'm just a lazy bugger who reckons a small battery pack in the boot area connected to a push button might do the trick. Something else to add to my list of "stuff to do" :D

Got the steering intermediate shaft to move a bit by tapping very gently with a hammer... then got a phone call from a relative... 3 hours later I couldn't be bothered going back out to the near zero temperature, so it can just soak up the silicon spray and I'll look at it again tomorrow arvo.

Cheers, Paul.

[p38arover]

I use a ball joint splitter fork down between the steering box and the UJ.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/881.jpg

[PaulP38a]

I use a ball joint splitter fork down between the steering box and the UJ.



can you use it tune your piano as well? :D

[p38arover]

Elisabeth gets a bit peeved when I hit her "Ronaldi" (true) piano with it. :D

[PaulP38a]

Elisabeth gets a bit peeved when I hit her "Ronaldi" (true) piano with it. :D

Curious... I think my Mum's piano might be a Ronaldi too, and she's just a couple of Km's up the hill from you (in a 4WD) at Yellow Rock.

Seriously, I've never contemplated whacking the piano with a lump of metal... I worry a bit about you sometimes Ron :p

[mike 90 RR]

Paul ... I'm working blind on how a P38 shaft setup is /// but if it's like a regular LR setup as on my RRC ... then the below will do the trick

The steering shaft has a splined end that goes / fits into a cast clamp that has a bolt that tightens up the clamp (onto the splined shaft)

Undo the bolt ... then insert a large screwdriver into the split of the "clamp flange" (where the bolt is) and drive the screwdriver into the split with a hammer // forcing it open "slightly" .... This will open the clamp up and release it's grip on the splined shaft



Mike
:)

[p38arover]

Paul, did you remove the bolt?

IIRC, the shaft has a groove so if the bolt is not completely out, the UJ won't come off.

[PaulP38a]

Paul, did you remove the bolt?

IIRC, the shaft has a groove so if the bolt is not completely out, the UJ won't come off.

yep, the one that sits on this shaft
http://cordwellis.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1308&g2_serialNumber=1

http://cordwellis.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1306&g2_serialNumber=1
All out ok, thanks for the help folks.

Cheers, Paul.

[andrew e]

Thats a yucky looking Shaft. Clean it up with that gasket remover stuff i was talking to you about. Make sure that water logged joint moves freely, they have been known to fail before.

Andy

[eb220]

Looking at that shaft setup, I would recommend a really good clean up with a wire brush, then tape up the shaft splines and give it a coat of primer and HT paint.

Lots of WD40 on the bolts, splines and joints re-assemble it.

I'd then warm up some vaseline baby jelly, till it's just gone out of the hard stage, but not to the really runny stage. Grab a paint brush and apply as many layers as you would like (I'd do about 5 layers) to all the areas around and over bolts, splines and nuts. As a dad I know how well it keeps water off a babies bum, so in theory it should work on this, and you shouldn't have any more problems with rusting.

Paul, How come you use silicon spray on the bolts and nuts? I've never heard of that before.

[PaulP38a]

Paul, How come you use silicon spray on the bolts and nuts? I've never heard of that before.

No particular reason... when I started this job I couldn't easily place my hand on the can of WD-40 but the silicon spray was nearby.

Seems to have worked well though.

I use it on my garage doors as it doesn't collect as much dirt as WD-40.