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Ashes
22nd August 2009, 11:11 PM
I'm looking to put in a traxide SC40-LR kit in the D3.

I am considering running a cable directly off the 2nd battery to provide a power source in the engine bay for air compressor (not a engine bay mounted compressor though, just a portable) or any other 12v item I might like to hook up but haven't thought of yet:D

My thinking is to run a 50amp fused/circuit breaked cable from the 2nd battery with a connector of some sort. On the portable compressor, rewire the power cable with a mating connection. This will allow me to pop the bonnet and just plug the compressor into a socket.
I would then also put a matching socket on the other end of cut power lead so I could reattach the battery clamps if needed for use on other cars. Hope that makes sense.

Has anyone done this and if so, what plug would you recommend? Are Anderson plugs the right sort of plug to use for this application?

WhiteD3
23rd August 2009, 05:07 AM
I fitted an AMP-TECH D48 battery + SC40. Ran the SC40 cable back to the driver's side rear and fitted the 2 cig sockets. Also connected a 50A Anderson plug on a 1m lead with in-line fuse at the same place; it lives behind the panel, accessible via the plastic door that hides the jack.

When camping I have a 10m lead which plugs into the Anderson connector in the back of the D3, which I run to the tent for an inverter, light, etc.

I bought an Anderson plug to put on my compressor for use from the back of the car, then considered that the clamps it already has are probably better to keep as it means I can clamp to any 12v power source.

Anderson plugs are very good but expensive.

drivesafe
23rd August 2009, 06:49 AM
Hi Ashes, as WhiteD3 posted, the 50 amp Anderson plugs are the way to go and they can not only handle any of your accessories, you can jump start through them.

Here’s a link to the installation instructions for another one of my kits for the D3 and you can see how to set everything up the way you are thinking of doing.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/verandah/62580-traxide-full-power-cable-kit-d3.html

Here is another link to my range of Anderson plugs.

and7 (http://www.traxide.com.au/anderson_7.html)

drivesafe
23rd August 2009, 06:51 AM
Hi WhiteD3, how easy is the AMP-TECH D48 to fit.

Are there any modifications needed?

Ashes
23rd August 2009, 07:16 AM
99% there now...

One last question Tim.. Is the 8 way blade fuse holder block on your site
suitable to use as an underseat fuse box to then run the power sockets, UHF or even an extra Anderson plug?

CaverD3
23rd August 2009, 07:24 AM
I think the Amptech battery just needs modification to the battery holder. A few good whacks with a hammer should fo it.:D

WhiteD3
23rd August 2009, 07:55 AM
Hi WhiteD3, how easy is the AMP-TECH D48 to fit.

Are there any modifications needed?

As Caver says, the battery fits perfectly, just need to "modify" the LR battery bracket. Takes 5 minutes.

drivesafe
23rd August 2009, 09:06 AM
Is the 8 way blade fuse holder block on your site
suitable to use as an underseat fuse box to then run the power sockets, UHF or even an extra Anderson plug?

Hi Ashes, there are other types of fuse holder blocks that are covered but as long as you cover the input bolt on my 8 way fuse holder, it is actually easier to install and has a lower profile so it is probably the best for what you want.

Ashes, if you place an order with me, all the kits are already discounted but don’t forget to let me know you are an AULRO member as there is a 10% on individual parts.

By the way, have a look at the Anderson PowerPoles, these are a great little In-Line connector set up and can handle up to 45 amps.

While I only have the 30 amp PowerPoles shown on my site, the 45 amp PowerPoles are the same size and I now carry them and a number of other related PowerPole products, not yet posted on my site.

Ashes
23rd August 2009, 09:15 AM
Thanks for that. I am a aulro subscriber.

I've sent you an email with what I think I'm after. More than happy for you to let me know what might work better for me in regard to plug types/connectors as you know this stuff much better than me. I guess a bit of heatshrink over the bolt would suffice.

thanks for the great advice so far.
cheers,
Brian

drivesafe
23rd August 2009, 09:34 AM
Ashes, what sort of accessories are you planning on running off the fuse holder, things that you might want to plug and unplug?

Ashes
23rd August 2009, 09:47 AM
At the moment I'd be looking to run
2 x DVD units (plugged into 12v sockets)
1 x UHF. Would look to wire this via a socket connection (won't unplug this often) so won't be removing wires from the fuse box.
Maybe allow in the future to run 1 or 2 12v sockets to the rear or perhaps another anderson plug if the cable load allows.

I don't think I'd be removing anything regularly from the fuse box and generally maximum load at any time would be the UHF and 2 or 3 other devices.

drivesafe
23rd August 2009, 10:10 AM
As far as the UHF goes, the 30 amp PowerPoles are actually the standard connection system for Ham Radio set ups.

Give me a day or two and I’ll take some pictures and post them up.

These PowerPoles are the best thing for power connects to come along in a long time and can be used for heaps of applications and I’m finding new uses for them all the time.

I do a lot of testing and have now got a huge range of devices wired up with these plugs and it saves me loads of time when connecting and disconnect test gear and devices.

I’m actually in the process of manufacturing a PowerPole replacement for cigarette power socket, which will ( with some rewiring of the vehicle ) give a 30 amp replacement for the 10 amp cigarette socket, and these devices will have a microprocessor controlling a user selectable voltage cut-out, so you won’t have to worry about flattening your batteries.

This will make using air compressors and medium sized inverters a lot easier.

Ashes
23rd August 2009, 01:27 PM
As Caver says, the battery fits perfectly, just need to "modify" the LR battery bracket. Takes 5 minutes.


What sort of modification are we talking about? How has the amp-tech perfomed and approximate cost?

WhiteD3
23rd August 2009, 02:22 PM
What sort of modification are we talking about? How has the amp-tech performed and approximate cost?

Re the bracket; from memory you need to straighten out one leg of the bracket and rebend it. Literally a 5 mine job with a vice and hammer.

The D48 was $179 in Brisbane, has a 2 year warranty, so even if it only lasts 3 years its cheeeeaap. Performance has been good but then I don't run a fridge on it, just a UHF and when camping, a sleep aepnea machine, light, and the kid's Nintendo DS'.

WhiteD3
23rd August 2009, 03:57 PM
http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/7531/pict0003ojr.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/3793/pict0006anotated.jpg
http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/1628/pict0007anotated.jpg

Ashes
23rd August 2009, 04:18 PM
Got it!! Thanks heaps for the pics. Explains it beautifully.

WhiteD3
23rd August 2009, 06:36 PM
Before you modify the bracket, spend a minute or so thinking about the bolts. Due to the placement of the encapsulated thread in the floor of the battery compartment on the engine side, the bolt tab on the bracket needs to be higher on this side than on the guard side.

In the third pic you'll see I've used two large nuts as spacers on the guard side.

You can sort of see the diff in bolt head heights in the second pic I posted.

You'll see what I mean when you do it.:D

Also (and I just remembered this), due to the way the batt compartment lid slopes down towards the front of the car, it's a squeeze getting a terminal clamp on the front post; hence why I've used the marine terminals on the batt. I think this is a better way to do it anyway and the batt came with the nyloc nuts fitted.

norto
7th September 2009, 07:00 AM
As far as the UHF goes, the 30 amp PowerPoles are actually the standard connection system for Ham Radio set ups.

Give me a day or two and I’ll take some pictures and post them up.

These PowerPoles are the best thing for power connects to come along in a long time and can be used for heaps of applications and I’m finding new uses for them all the time.

I do a lot of testing and have now got a huge range of devices wired up with these plugs and it saves me loads of time when connecting and disconnect test gear and devices.

I’m actually in the process of manufacturing a PowerPole replacement for cigarette power socket, which will ( with some rewiring of the vehicle ) give a 30 amp replacement for the 10 amp cigarette socket, and these devices will have a microprocessor controlling a user selectable voltage cut-out, so you won’t have to worry about flattening your batteries.

This will make using air compressors and medium sized inverters a lot easier.
Drivesafe
I was talking to "Ghosta" and he said........:)

bobzed57
17th September 2009, 06:35 PM
Thanks for all the advice team.

Tonight I finished my dual battery system. I installed the traxide jobby and had the auto-elec run the cable to the rear when he did the trailer brake controller. I fitted a Varta battery and as you can imagine I was pretty careful using the grinder on a car less than 2 months old. I also installed an Anderson plug under the bonnet for my compressor.

For the power in the luggage compartment, I ran the cable from the Anderson plug up into the LH rear tail light gland to a fuse panel I fitted where the hitch normally goes. I'm not a fan of permanent fittings in the rear, so I used a couple of hella/cigarette combos that live under the rear seats and I pull them out when I need to connect the fridges.

A few pictures attached.

Cheers

Bob

Ashes
27th September 2009, 06:11 PM
Done as well:)

Connected the battery to a fuse box under the drivers seat and from that have run the UHF and wired in 2 12v sockets for the 2nd row passengers.

Also connected up an Anderson plug from the 2nd battery so I have access to power in the bonnet without having to remove the battery cover or use terminal clamps.

CaverD3
27th September 2009, 07:42 PM
Saw the D4 today.
The second battery box is full of the alarm and something else.:mad:
Tim (aka drivesafe) you may need to sart working on a loom extension to move these to the other side.
They probably haven't put them there cos it's full of the FBH in the Northern hemisphere.

gps-au
27th September 2009, 09:17 PM
Saw the D4 today.
The second battery box is full of the alarm and something else.:mad:
Tim (aka drivesafe) you may need to sart working on a loom extension to move these to the other side.
They probably haven't put them there cos it's full of the FBH in the Northern hemisphere.

Makes you wonder if LR will learn in time for the D5 ? :angel:

CaverD3
27th September 2009, 09:21 PM
Oh yes and 19 inch wheels only.
No difference between the diesel and VS for the disks.:mad: