Series 2a 4wd capability?

[korg20000bc]

I've bought a ex-army 2a LWB and I am in the process of restoring it. I haven't driven a land rover in a 4wd setting before and I'm wanting a no bullcrap, completely honest opinion of the 2a's 4wd capability. I have a friend who is very pro land rover- as am I, and he tells me that my 2a will crap over anything contempory to it and will surprise many more mordern 4wd drivers. He also tells me that a standard 2a GS will do things that other makes would need diff-lockers to do. That'd be great, if true! But I suspect that there's a bit of halo factor going on.

Can someone set me straight?

Thanks

Matthew

[isuzurover]

He is a bit generous. I have a IIA GS, which I bought in stock standard form. They are reasonably capable, but limited by overly stiff springs designed to carry heavy equipment/grunts.

They come with:
11 leaf / 290lb/in front and
8 leaf 405 lb/in rear.

If you have a tonne of load in the rear it will flex well, otherwise it won't. A friend in the brisbane LR club removed 2 front leaves from his springs and fitted 270lb/in station wagon rear springs (not available new unfortunately).

When I saw how well his flexed I did something similar (I have posted the details a few times on here). I have 220lb/in front and 260lb/in rear. As well as removed the bump stop spacers in the front and fitted RRC rear shocks to the rear. This gives me about 15" of wheel travel at each end.

The above will give you equal or better offroad ability to any unlocked 4x4.

However - the most important factor is the driver's ability!!! I have seen people with double locked 4x4s on big tyres get stuck easily.

[JDNSW]

More or less as Isuzurover says, except for a point he missed - the ex-army 2a is lighter than any current full size four wheel drive, by a large margin. And, particularly in soft going, this makes a big difference.

Also, compared to most current four wheel drives (in standard form) it has better ground clearance and approach and departure angles.

As pointed out, the driver is the major factor, but in most offroad conditions the ex-army 2a will outperform most current four wheel drives in their standard form, its only significant shortcoming being that the stiff springs limit effective wheel travel, but this only affects performance where maximum wheel travel is needed.

John

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Series Land Rovers explored the World.

On the British Trans-America Expedition of the 1970's the Range Rovers only made it through the Darien Gap in Central America because of a series Land Rover purchased locally to push a path through the jungle in front of the Rangies.

Diana

[Scouse]

On the British Trans-America Expedition of the 1970's the Range Rovers only made it through the Darien Gap in Central America because of a series Land Rover purchased locally to push a path through the jungle in front of the Rangies.That was nothing to do with capabilty though Diana.


They just didn't want to scratch the Rangies :).

[djam1]

A leaf sprung Land Rover in standard form was designed to carry weight put some weight in it and it will surprise you.
Without weight the articulation with old stiff/seized springs is pretty lousy.
Put some weight in modern soft roaders and you will see how bad they are lol

[korg20000bc]

He is a bit generous. I have a IIA GS, which I bought in stock standard form. They are reasonably capable, but limited by overly stiff springs designed to carry heavy equipment/grunts.

They come with:
11 leaf / 290lb/in front and
8 leaf 405 lb/in rear.

If you have a tonne of load in the rear it will flex well, otherwise it won't. A friend in the brisbane LR club removed 2 front leaves from his springs and fitted 270lb/in station wagon rear springs (not available new unfortunately).

When I saw how well his flexed I did something similar (I have posted the details a few times on here). I have 220lb/in front and 260lb/in rear. As well as removed the bump stop spacers all round and fitted RRC rear shocks to the rear. This gives me about 15" of wheel travel at each end.

The above will give you equal or better offroad ability to any unlocked 4x4.

However - the most important factor is the driver's ability!!! I have seen people with double locked 4x4s on big tyres get stuck easily.

Has removing the bump stop spacers created any contact problems at all? My GS has straps that restrict to downward travel of the axels. These would need to be removed to assist travel. What was the thinking behind having these in the first place?

If I was to remove some leaves from the spring packs is there a formula or something of what is still required. I saw a video whare someone had modified their toyota troopy's suspension. They removed some springs from the pack and put neoprene spacers between all the leaves to soften it all up.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

There looks to be a bit of rust in the springs. If they were dismantled and cleaned up amd the ends rounded and radiused (I read that somewhere) does their perfromance improve?

Matthew

[numpty]

http://images.yuku.com/image/jpeg/53035ec2bca43d130333745b8829a72beb370c7.JPG

There looks to be a bit of rust in the springs. If they were dismantled and cleaned up amd the ends rounded and radiused (I read that somewhere) does their perfromance improve?

Matthew

In short......yes.;)

[chazza]

My GS has straps that restrict to downward travel of the axels. These would need to be removed to assist travel. What was the thinking behind having these in the first place?


There looks to be a bit of rust in the springs. If they were dismantled and cleaned up amd the ends rounded and radiused (I read that somewhere) does their perfromance improve?

Matthew

The straps are to stop the propellor shaft disconnecting when the axle drops under extreme articulation.

Cleaning the springs and removing any wear steps and rust will help them to slip over each other. They should be oiled, greased, or lubricated with a dry lubricant such as switch-plate spray. In normal use it is sufficient to jack up the vehicle and support the chassis on stands, which allows the axle to drop and the springs to separate a bit. I have used old engine oil brushed on with good results. Diesel oil being blacker, makes it look a bit neater, as if they had been painted. The result will be a significant improvement in ride comfort,

Cheers Charlie

[isuzurover]

Has removing the bump stop spacers created any contact problems at all? My GS has straps that restrict to downward travel of the axels. These would need to be removed to assist travel. What was the thinking behind having these in the first place?


Sorry, I fixed the original thread to say I only removed them on the front. On the rear I kept them in place and fitted longer shocks.

The axle check straps are useless and severely restrict axle travel. Throw them away unless you want them for originality.

Cleaning and greasing the springs will reduce interleaf friction, but won't change the rate. So you will get a slightly improved ride but there will be no noticeable difference in wheel travel.



The straps are to stop the propellor shaft disconnecting when the axle drops under extreme articulation.

Cheers Charlie

That is the official answer, but in reality they are not needed. I removed mine in 1993. I had the original rover diff for several years, and now have a salisbury. I have never dislocated a propshaft (or even come close) - despite having much more wheel travel than a standard GS is capable of.



A leaf sprung Land Rover in standard form was designed to carry weight put some weight in it and it will surprise you.

Agreed, but they are still far too heavily sprung. The factory rated them at 750kg load capacity. I can put 1.1T of firewood in the back of mine with the lightest spring rate a 109" came from the factory with, and still not be on the bump stops.

[JDNSW]

My understanding was that the axle check straps are to avoid pulling the ends off the shock absorbers, which would otherwise limit the travel. Whether this is a serious concern probably depends both on the type of shock absorbers you use and the way you drive, but over the years I have seen a few Series Landrovers with missing or broken check straps - and broken shock absorbers. But on the other hand I have seen quite a few with broken or missing check straps and no problems.

John

[isuzurover]

My understanding was that the axle check straps are to avoid pulling the ends off the shock absorbers, which would otherwise limit the travel. Whether this is a serious concern probably depends both on the type of shock absorbers you use and the way you drive, but over the years I have seen a few Series Landrovers with missing or broken check straps - and broken shock absorbers. But on the other hand I have seen quite a few with broken or missing check straps and no problems.

John

When I restored my GS I had the original monroe military shocks reconditioned by WW shock absorbers. Never had any issues with the rear, and later swapped to RRC rear shocks, which rarely get to full extension - if ever. So no check straps and I have never broken a rear shock. Despite running only 2 sets of shocks in 15 years.

The front is a different story. The way I have it set up, the front shocks have a hard life. They reach full compression about the same time the bump stop does (with spacer removed), and I can get an extra couple of inches of wheel travel at the front if the shocks were removed. That said, in 15 years, I have snapped the top eye off one shock. When that happened, I got a spare shock rebuilt, and double-welded the top eyes on both front shocks (rear eyes are still standard). I have not broken a shock since.

[Blknight.aus]

sort the springs and if you have no plans to ever load it up drop an intermediate leaf out of each pack then have the ride height reset.


If I can do the cape in a Series III with the 1 ton leafs you'll be stunned by what you can do with an Ex-mil Series. The caveat being that you have to know how to make it all work, Its not like a lot of other vehicles.

[Phoenix]

I did a bit of 4wding in my series 3 before I 'retired' her from active 4wd use. The only time I struggled was the odd occasion where high flex was required to stop getting cross axled and stuck. everything else was simply driver inexperience.

[JDNSW]

Just a bit of perspective - over forty years ago I drove all over the Simpson in a Series 2 swb and a Series 2a lwb, mostly with standard 7.50x16 crossply mud tyres. Fifty years ago Len Beadell drove all over Central Australia, mostly in overloaded swb Series 1s. About the same time I was driving over a lot of the ranges in the ACT in Series 1s. The ex-army Series 3 has similar capability. I have got stuck in Series Landrovers - but generally because I did something stupid, not because of the vehicles' shortcomings.

Comparing my current 2a and 110, the 110 is superior to the 2a in two ways - the softer suspension allows you to go faster, and the Isuzu engine is superior to the petrol Rover engine. Ultimate capability - not much difference, just a bit easier in the 110. But if the ground is very soft, I prefer the 2a, because it is lighter!

John

[isuzurover]

Just a bit of perspective - over forty years ago I drove all over the Simpson in a Series 2 swb and a Series 2a lwb, mostly with standard 7.50x16 crossply mud tyres. Fifty years ago Len Beadell drove all over Central Australia, mostly in overloaded swb Series 1s. About the same time I was driving over a lot of the ranges in the ACT in Series 1s. The ex-army Series 3 has similar capability. I have got stuck in Series Landrovers - but generally because I did something stupid, not because of the vehicles' shortcomings.

Comparing my current 2a and 110, the 110 is superior to the 2a in two ways - the softer suspension allows you to go faster, and the Isuzu engine is superior to the petrol Rover engine. Ultimate capability - not much difference, just a bit easier in the 110. But if the ground is very soft, I prefer the 2a, because it is lighter!

John

I think there is an important distinction/definitional issue here regarding what constitutes 4x4 ability.

e.g. IMHO, there is a large difference in the attributes you want for a touring/farm/remote area travel vehicle to the attributes you want for a weekend offroader.

Most people with a touring vehicle would probably consider durability, ruggedness, comfort, ease of parts replacement, and ease of repair above wheel travel, approach/departure angle and rampover angle.

When on a weekend offroading trip I will push my vehicle to the limits of its and my capability (where possible). I would never do the same when I was in the middle of a remote area, for fear of breaking something critical - unless it was absolutely essential.

Likewise, most of the tracks in remote areas of Australia are relatively flat, with the major obstacles being sand (dunes), river crossings, etc, etc... Extreme amounts of wheel travel and/or diff locks are rarely needed.

I agree that a newer 4x4 will win hands down as a touring vehicle - comfort, durability (stronger axles and newer parts), ease of parts replacement, etc... While that is 4x4ing, I would not consider that as testing the limits of 4x4 ability. After all - mitsubishi pajeros and the like regularly make it through the outback with ease but I could never take one through some of the tracks I have taken my IIA through as they don't have enough wheel travel or ground clearance.

[JDNSW]

I think there is an important distinction/definitional issue here regarding what constitutes 4x4 ability.
...........

Yes, I agree - but I don't think the original poster was very clear on what he meant by "4wd capability". I assumed he meant the ability to progress along a difficult track - although even assuming this leaves a lot of variables - for example, soft, deep sand will require different capabilities from deep water or rock climbing or mud - and there are all sorts of different varieties of mud!

But regardless of the definition of "4wd capability", I think that the 2a (and other Series Landrovers) would have to rate right up with any off the shelf current models, and ahead of most.

John

[korg20000bc]

sort the springs and if you have no plans to ever load it up drop an intermediate leaf out of each pack then have the ride height reset.


If I can do the cape in a Series III with the 1 ton leafs you'll be stunned by what you can do with an Ex-mil Series. The caveat being that you have to know how to make it all work, Its not like a lot of other vehicles.

Blknight,
What does it mean to have the ride height reset, and how is it done?

[matpoli]

Hi guys reading this has got me thinking. My series 2 did ok in the mud but the springs don't look that good, they are rusted to the point where they have swelled.

Do you think they are still effective or can I grease/oil them up to get better performance from them.

Sorry that I keep poping up with my own issues but here is a great place to learn.

thx for any help you can offer :)

[isuzurover]

Blknight,
What does it mean to have the ride height reset, and how is it done?

Search spring resetting in google.

It is used to re-arch springs so the vehicle will sit at the correct ride height. I would have mentioned it in the threads on my spring setup.

Some basic info is here: http://www.westraliasprings.com.au/category/workshop_facilities/14


Hi guys reading this has got me thinking. My series 2 did ok in the mud but the springs don't look that good, they are rusted to the point where they have swelled.

Do you think they are still effective or can I grease/oil them up to get better performance from them.

Sorry that I keep poping up with my own issues but here is a great place to learn.

thx for any help you can offer :)

You have the factory 9-leaf front and 11-leaf rear than came standard on 88" models. You cannot get spring steel that thin anymore, so cannot buy equivalents for love nor money, so they are worth looking after. They have started to rust between the leaves, causing them to spread. They need to be dismantled and attacked with a wire brush or sanding disc on a grinder.

[JDNSW]

Hi guys reading this has got me thinking. My series 2 did ok in the mud but the springs don't look that good, they are rusted to the point where they have swelled.

Do you think they are still effective or can I grease/oil them up to get better performance from them.

Sorry that I keep poping up with my own issues but here is a great place to learn.

thx for any help you can offer :)

As Ben says. They are worth looking after.

Remove the springs, and clamp them in a vice. remove the centrebolt and clamps to disassemble them and remove the rust by wire brushing followed by sanding or grinding to smooth them. Avoid removing too much metal, but round the edge where the leaves slide on each other and remove any ridges that have built up by wear. Reassemble with the mating surfaces covered in graphite grease, MoS2 grease or antiseize. The springs may then need resetting as Ben explains.

John

[Blknight.aus]

. Reassemble with the mating surfaces covered in graphite grease, MoS2 grease or antiseize. The springs may then need resetting as Ben explains.

John


NO....NONONONONo.

No Grease, nothing wet, sticky or slimey. IT will attract dirt and moisture and then you grind your leaves away.

you can use a teflon dry lube, teflon end pads and even teflon sheets betwean each leaf..

all of that gets done after you clean up everything as you're bolting it together but BEFORE you send them off to be reset (if they need it)When you send them off to be reset be sure to tell the mob that you use that you want them reset and assembled with the teflon goodies in place.


If you have a look at some trucks and the HD leaves for some toyota and nissan tray backs you will see a small round pad glued between some or all leaves Thats the teflon pad.

[Chops]

If I may, I'll just put my 2cents in,,

Many years ago, my first 4x4 was a S3 SWB ute which had been let go on a farm. Badly worn suspension and grass growing inside the cab, in the window rails and ute body, and bar tread tyres,, I did wonder if I'd made the right choice,, :o:eek::confused:

Took her to Pedders where they installed new standard springs and shocks,, and spent lots of time and TLC on the rest of her,,;):D oh,, and some Kumho tyres,,

Even loaded to the max with all my gear, she used to be reffered to as "the bulldozer" because the theory was, If I couldnt get through, neither could anyone else, But if I did, I could guide/pull the others through,, :D She was unstopable except for "my" mistakes..:(

Learning to drive the old girl was a breeze and started my love and allience for Rovers of all sorts, and has shown me that with planning and a whisker of luck, they go further than any other 4x4 in standard form. :):cool::D:p

Cheers, Chops

[JDNSW]

NO....NONONONONo.

No Grease, nothing wet, sticky or slimey. IT will attract dirt and moisture and then you grind your leaves away.
.....

Actually I agree with you - unless it is not going to be used in dusty conditions. If used only in wet conditions or only on road, then greasing the leaves will repel moisture rather than attract it.

In dusty conditions (let's face it - most of Australia) as you say, oil or grease will hold the dust and it will act as grinding paste. But the problem with the original poster's springs is not wear due to dust, but rust due to water, and in this case grease is the lesser evil, looking at it mainly as a water repellent rather than a lubricant.

John

[isuzurover]

NO....NONONONONo.

No Grease, nothing wet, sticky or slimey. IT will attract dirt and moisture and then you grind your leaves away.

you can use a teflon dry lube, teflon end pads and even teflon sheets betwean each leaf..

all of that gets done after you clean up everything as you're bolting it together but BEFORE you send them off to be reset (if they need it)When you send them off to be reset be sure to tell the mob that you use that you want them reset and assembled with the teflon goodies in place.



BULLDUST - won't harm your springs - even if greased ;)

I used to grease my springs regularly (reminds me I need to do it again) - and drive in all manner of dusty/sandy roads in dry QLD summers. No ill effects in 15 years, AND it has stopped the springs rusting.

If anything, the "grinding paste" would help keep the leaves rust free. I doubt much would get in between the leaves anyway.

Teflon pads are quite soft, and I am sure sand and grit would be embedded into them.

AND - most manufacturers specify that springs should be greased, e.g.:


Mercedes-Benz Specifications for Operating Fluids (MB BeVo)
268.0 Leaf spring grease (Specification 268.0)

268.0 Leaf spring grease (Specification 268.0)
Last update: 08/04/2009
Castrol Viscogen 4 Castrol Limited, SWINDON/UNITED KINGDOM
INA Grafitna Pasta 32 Maziva-Zagreb d.o.o., Zagreb/CROATIA

A final comment on resetting, make sure the person doing the resetting either does a hot reset or retempers the springs afterwards. Many just do cold resets, and IME, cold resets are not as resistant to sag.

[Lost Landy]

I have sceen old photos of cars from the 1920s that have a leather sleve over the leaf springs and laced along the bottom, this was used to help keep the dust and crap out of the leaves.

[JDNSW]

I have sceen old photos of cars from the 1920s that have a leather sleve over the leaf springs and laced along the bottom, this was used to help keep the dust and crap out of the leaves.

Yes, was used on some luxury cars but not much else. The most recent I can remember seeing it on was on a 1950s Lanchester.

John

[Chops]

A mechanic in Corrying that used to service my car, he geases his springs and wraps/binds them in leather, he swore by it, reckons the ride difference to un-greased springs is like chaulk and cheese, and they lasted a lot longer. Another trick he had was to put a grease nipple on the outside of the wheel hub to do the bearings,, this seemed to work too,,

[chazza]

NO....NONONONONo.

No Grease, nothing wet, sticky or slimey. IT will attract dirt and moisture and then you grind your leaves away.



This argument is often proffered; however; the springs will "grind" themselves with the dry dust that gets in there anyway and with the rust that will develop as soon as they get wet. Teflon pads may work (I have no experience of them) but how will they disperse moisture, especially where the spring pack clamps together under the axle?

A scrupulous owner will jack the car up and pressure blast the springs regularly and re-lubricate them. Whilst this is tedious and sand will stick, the advantages of a supple ride with minimal rust, surely outweigh any disadvantage,

Cheers Charlie

[matpoli]

I had a look in the owners workbook and they say to recon the springs you need to clean them as up you guys have suggested and then apply some graphite grease.

It doesn't mention getting the springs reset, is that step really necessary?

I am geting ready to try but the only cost will be getting them reset and that is the bit that is putting me off, oh and i'll insert new bushes as well while i'm at it.

Thx

[Chops]

I had a look in the owners workbook and they say to recon the springs you need to clean them as up you guys have suggested and then apply some graphite grease.

It doesn't mention getting the springs reset, is that step really necessary?

I am geting ready to try but the only cost will be getting them reset and that is the bit that is putting me off, oh and i'll insert new bushes as well while i'm at it.

Thx

Resetting depends on how far they have "sagged" from new, and how well they actually work. I bought new ones for my S3, but on a Tojo I had, I got them reset by Pedders. They did an awesome job, not only did the car sit/ride correctly when empty, but they added a heavy duty short spring (cant remember what name they give this, but we needed it as we were towing horses around) and when loaded, the car only dropped about a half an inch from top hight. Didn't cost anywhere near as much as new springs, and when out in the bush, still seemed to have plenty of articulation,,well, as much as leaf springs give,,,

[isuzurover]

I had a look in the owners workbook and they say to recon the springs you need to clean them as up you guys have suggested and then apply some graphite grease.

It doesn't mention getting the springs reset, is that step really necessary?

I am geting ready to try but the only cost will be getting them reset and that is the bit that is putting me off, oh and i'll insert new bushes as well while i'm at it.

Thx

As long as the landie sits at the correct height then there is no need to reset the springs.

The resetting comments were more for those people with military 109s which are sprung too heavily and need to remove leaves.

e.g. - standard military 8-leaf rears have 5" free camber. I needed about 10" on my springs.

[Newbs-IIA]

I have suprised alot of my mates as how well my old IIA GS chugs along up the beach. I can keep up with most modern 4WDs if driven properly, correct tyre pressures etc.

My front springs are worse than the one pictured before, they are pretty much frozen with rust and very much due for a rebuild however they have already gotten me to some interesting places.

Very capable cars IMO :D

[gary archbold]

I drove the Cape in a lwb Nissan Patrol- brand new at the time(mid 80's)-and we were somewhere north of Laura feeling very much pleased with ourselves and our 4wd abilities when at dusk one night a mid 50's swb soft top Landrover appeared out of the bush.

We stopped to chat with the bloke who was in his early 30's accompanied by his wife and 3 year old daughter. He had driven across from Karumba or Normanton through the bush-no road at the time through to Laura-using only a compass!

He reckoned he didn't have a moments worry-"these things'll go anywhere".

Needless to say we all felt a little deflated in comparison.

Gaz

[gromit]

If you fancy greasing the springs and adding leather gaiters they are still available......
Wefco Patent Spring Cover (http://wefcogaiters.com/web/html/home/home_body.shtm)

I remember my dad using a greased hessian tape that was used to wrap steel pipes that were being installed underground (this was back in the UK in the 60's). The outside quickly got dirt stuck to it but the inside protected the springs and didn't restrict movement.


Colin

[JDNSW]

There has been almost no improvement in offroad capability of mainstream fourwheel drives since the introduction of the Bantam Jeep in 1940. The first Landrovers were just as capable (if not better because of the four speed gearbox), but their ability probably decreased slightly through Series production as wheelbases and weight increased, slightly offset by increased tyre size.

The coil spring Landrovers, starting with the Rangerover, were better because of improved articulation, but again, the process of increased weight started decreasing ability, aided by sway bars and underbody spoilers on some models.

And none of the other major brands have been any better, some a lot worse.

If you think about it, most of the changes in four wheel drives over the last sixty or seventy years have been directed at improved comfort and better on road performance and better load carrying. The improvements that talk about better offroad performance are invariably aimed at making it easier for less skillful drivers rather than actually improving offroad ability.

There are a few vehicles that really have made improvements in offroad ability. You have probably never heard of most of them, and almost certainly never seen any, because the increase in offroad ability reduced the usefulness in other areas.

John

[Grover-98]

Well i too have got myself a 2A SWB which i hope to clean up and get on the road. From reading through this thread looks like i should:

1. Remove all the leafs and clean them up and coat them in some of my used? Engine oil from the 300Tdi.
2. Replace them leaving some leafs out
3. Get the height reset (hot reset as less prone to sagging)
4. Add some range rover shocks and remove the limiting straps.
5. I will also be replacing all the rubbers.


Is this a fair conclusion from reading this thread?;) I don't expect it to ride like my Discovery or flex up as well but non the less want the best i can get out of it at a low budget.

James.

[Blknight.aus]

yep, thats about it....

[Jeff]

Well i too have got myself a 2A SWB which i hope to clean up and get on the road. From reading through this thread looks like i should:

1. Remove all the leafs and clean them up and coat them in some of my used? Engine oil from the 300Tdi.
2. Replace them leaving some leafs out
3. Get the height reset (hot reset as less prone to sagging)
4. Add some range rover shocks and remove the limiting straps.
5. I will also be replacing all the rubbers.


Is this a fair conclusion from reading this thread?;) I don't expect it to ride like my Discovery or flex up as well but non the less want the best i can get out of it at a low budget.

James.

I wouldn't use old engine oil. It is very toxic and also will stain driveways. Use some new oil, it won't cost that much, and will probably be more suitable.

Jeff

:rocket:

Clicky:YouTube- Series Land Rover Driving Instruction Part 1

YouTube- Series Land Rover Driving Instruction Part 2

[chuck]

Remember: A Landrover immobilised is a moral defeat for the driver & bad publicity for the vehicle!!!!!!

Great video

Regards

Chuck

[hodgo]

There is nothing wrong in using Graphite grease or Kopr Kote grease as both will repel water the trick is to wipe any excess off after using the vehicle the first couple of times. I have used Kopr Kote grease for years on all types of equipment including springs, it is impregnated with very small particals of cooper (which can been seen in sun light) It is very good on springs.
Kopr Kote was made by Ampol and I am on my last half a tin just hope some one still makes it.

Hodgo

[LandyDude]

Kopr Kote was made by Ampol and I am on my last half a tin ust hope some one stil makes it.

Hodgo

Looks like Caltex still sell it.

Caltex - Products & Services - Oil & Fuel Products - Lubricants (http://www.caltex.com.au/products_oil_detail.asp?id=68)

[peterg1001]

Try Copatec, made by Molytec. It's freely available from engineers' suppliers.

Peter

[chazza]

Loctite Anti-seize would also be ideal I suspect,

Cheers Charlie